Why extend dark periods improve potency

Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
I put this in another thread as resposne, but I decided to start a new thread to get feedback. Please add or correct any details after reviewing. Thanks.

Ok I think I'm getting closer to understanding why an extended dark period not only preserves levels of THC but also why it produces more. It's rather complicated so I'll try to keep it simple. First, THC is produced during the secondary metabolic function (when plant cells breaths). The waste product oxygen is used as the catalist to synthesis THCA into THC. Its the breathing not the engery making aspect of the plant that makes it. Hence, lights are not needed to produce THC from THCA. Plants concentrate on breathing in the dark while they do not produce food in the dark. The plant cant make glucose in the dark and but it can produce THC. Second, CBN is produced from THC through the primary metabolic function of anabolism (growth and reproduction). The labor on working on growth that it causes this to happen. Its also a cause of why potency is lower when the female is pollinated. Third, THC has high UV absorbtion properties. Its the absorbtion of light (most importantly, the radio active light) that breaks down THC into CBD. Thats why CBD is called an isomer of THC. THC can only be broken down to CBD in the presents of light.

So lets recap why dark periods are good for the potency of plants:
1. In the dark, plants continue to produce THC
2. In the dark, THC doe not turn into CBD or CBN

Before entering the dark period, your plant should be ready or almost ready to be harvested. The extended dark period should be considered a part of the curing process more so than part of the flowering process. In the dark, THC is will accomuilate, and the cloudy and amber trichs should remain the same. So are preserving all hard work while we enrich its potency. Consider this a "divine rot". We are allowing it to cure on the vine so to speak. Different plants have different time periods of darkness. High THC sativias or white strains will get the longest periods. Inidcas and lower THC plants will get less time in the dark. I dont believe trich will grow in the dark so I believe its only the existing trich will fill with more THC. Just for a bench mark, it is suggested for the White Widow to recieve 14 days of dark. An indica lowryder may only recieve as little as one or two days. Whatever you "fermenting" in your grow room for two weeks damn well better be worth the two weeks time that you are using up your grow space for. White Widow "divined rotted" for to weeks is truly divine. Two weeks with a lowryder and thats just a waste of space that only nominaly added to the potency (and maybe hurt your body stoned effect) of your plant.

I had to do some research on this but feel very comfortable in sharing this. Not sure if its perfect but it goes along way in explaining the process.
 
Serapis

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Two weeks? That seems extreme, once the plant quits producing energy, how much longer do the other mechanics survive? I've heard of 24-36 hours to peak thc, but never two weeks.
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
Thats a very good question. First, all I know is that some expert grower recommend this and its suppose to work well for the white widow but prob not any other strain. So thats an exception to the rule. Second thing, the plant will begin to die during longer periods. So accept the fact that the leaves will wilt and dry (just like when you cure it). Plants that produce high levels of THC will produce it for a longer period. Cannaboliods go through many changes. There many types of of them "stored" in the plant. To get to the THC, the plant must fist convert several others in its system first, and this takes time to get it all. That time period depends on the strain. As far as energy is concerned, I'm not certain how much is stored in the plant or how long it will last. It maybe necessary to carbo load the plant before sending the plant into a prolonged dark period. I know they make these for plants, but not certain if it will work, how long it will work, or even if its necessary.

First question is: how long (days) will may strain produce THC in the dark. Second question: how much more THC do I desire to get the proper effect from my strain. Third question: how manys days can my strain survive in the dark? Fourth question: what can I do to ensure that my plant will survive and produce THC for the desired period THC build up.
 
darkdestruction420

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
To get to the THC, the plant must fist convert several others in its system first, and this takes time to get it all.

thats what curing is for......
 
aug181983

aug181983

Active Member
Wow , Thats crazy. I dont see it living that long at all , 36hrs I imagine the plant already dieing and 48hrs probably getting ready to tip over from the heavy buds depending on the size of the plant
 
Serapis

Serapis

Well-Known Member
I thought curing was to allow removal of chlorophyll and to improve the flavor and allows the resins and cannabinoids to finish ripening? Most active transfer from inactive to active THC are halted shortly after harvest.

While the cannabinoids and THC ripen, the plant is not producing additional THC. That process halts when the plant dies, is killed.
 
darkdestruction420

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
Here's some interesting info as well.

How cannabis works after harvest (potency, metabolic processes, etc...) enjoy :)
Source: http://www.stonerforums.com/lounge/growfaq/1680.html

Hey guys just ran into something on the web, just thought I would share with you.

Does curing affect potency?

The very short answer is YES. It does affect potency in a very positive manner. Curing cannabis after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well as the taste and texture of the buds.

Curing takes place after cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. Most cannabis will retain a significant quantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry too fast.

Should a sample of bud become over-dried before proper curing is complete, many different techniques may be used to slightly re-hydrate the bud and continue curing as normal. Fresh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.

Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.

The preferred container for curing and storage of cannabis buds is an all glass jar, with a large opening for easy access. Wide-mouth canning jars with glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Less preferred are small-mouth canning jars with metal or plastic lids. Generally try to avoid all plastics in direct or close contact with your cannabis. Generally these materials are slightly porous and the phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, but not with glass.

Initially drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard boxes or paper bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.

There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can rationally and scientifically explain the increase in potency and improvement of the smoke in cured material:

Moisture Content

Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.

Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %’s by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of it’s initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of it’s initial water.

Once curing is complete and the pot is “dry”, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of its’ initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.

Cannabinoid Conversion

Naturally, as the metabolic processes continue during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because cannabergerol (CBG) is the non-psychoactive precursor for tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Of course, the exact change in THC content will necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of CBG in the fresh material at harvest. Of course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.

Be aware though if curing is excessively prolonged (most connoisseurs would agree after 6 months no more benefit could be had from curing), the conversion of THC to non-psychoactive cannabinol (CBN) will occur. The exact rate of decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions, but can be less than 10% to greater than 40% decomposition per year.

Storage tips:

Potency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic precautions:

The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.

Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.

Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.

During storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if temperatures of 0C or less are to be used, make sure the bud is dried to a very low moisture content before storage (to insure that cell walls are not burst by the freezing water).
Also, if prolonged storage is planned evacuating the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous oxide, or any other inert gas will help slow oxidation, as well as the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin C tablets.

The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or unpressed trichomes. Excessive rough handling or pressing can easily damage the protective cell walls and plant waxes that help protect cannabinoids from oxidation.

Continued Metabolism

Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

Decarboxylation

Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.

Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).

Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.

Taste & Odor

Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give marijuana much of its’ characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.

The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes very significantly. Cannabinoids are phenolated terepenes so it’s not surprising that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesized as well.

As pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatization in the process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the flavor; hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didn’t seem present in the original fresh material. Much of the very volatile terpenoids will also evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid concentration and therefore potency.

It must be noted that excessively long curing or storage, higher temperatures, or extremely low moisture content will cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will generally loose almost all of it’s natural flavors.​
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
I there are ways I think that can improve survival of a plant in a extend dark period. One method is over lumen the plant (more than 10000 per sq. inch). This cause the plant to reperate more, drawing up more water. Use carbo load to infuse the plant with more sugar. The plant will store the sugar as starch. If you ramp up the "fat" in the plant say two weeks before turning the lights off, it may have enough stored energy to survive something like a two weeks dark period. The pant will breath, it just needs enough energy to continue to resperate. As long the plants alive and breathing and producing THC, dont be concernd about how the plant looks. Do you sweat the leaves drying when its cut down and curing. Not one bit. Remember, the plants ready to harvest, that not going to change in the dark. when its stops breathing, just cut it down.
 
Serapis

Serapis

Well-Known Member
That was a very good read DD. I have bookmarked this thread, and i support it's candidacy for a sticky!

Good info guys
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
darkdestruction420 said:
To get to the THC, the plant must fist convert several others in its system first, and this takes time to get it all.

thats what curing is for......
Click to expand...
Dark period doesnt replace the cure period, its a preamble to the curing. Your trying to load the bud with THC will preserving the trich colors. Then cut and cure. One improve the other. They are not mutualy exclusive. Stop thinking that way.
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
Ok one last thought then its off to bed. While the plants alive and breathing, its using all of the plant (leaves and stems mostly) to convert the cannaboids to THC. This is a rapid conversion as oxygen is created as a by product, the change is immidiate into thc. That thc is then shipped to the the buds, and thc build up continues. This is new thc that you other wise would not have had if not for the the dark period. Also, the cure process will only metabiolize the cannbaliods in the buds, and only in slow process as its expose to oxygen. The dark period puts more thc on the bud that you would not of had regardless of the cure period, or how you cured it. Dark period good. Cure period good too. None bad. Both good.
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
Yes, some strains can produce more, some produce less. Those that produce the most get the longest time, those that produce the least get the least. More=more, least=least. Havent we gone over this already? You know for a guy that demands SCIENCE, you dont even bother to read it very well. Why should anyone put alot hard work in something to prove something to you, when you dont even bother to read the hard work for summary. I mean, you just demanded it, you didnt put any effort into it yourself. Can you please at least read it all the way through please. Or just dont make any more comments.
 
darkdestruction420

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
I did read it all, your theory still makes no sense, white widow would have to be the most potent strain ever then you seem to be getting heated up and im real sick of arguing with you about stupid stuff. I wish you all the best, but im done with this thread. You asked us to try to correct you if you had anything wrong and then got offended because I tell you that you do?
 
stumpjumper

stumpjumper

Well-Known Member
Man, I'm not letting my plant sit in the dark for TWO WEEKS!! That's crazy. It would probably be all drooped and wilted. Someone want to try and take before/after pics?

Not saying you are wrong, just saying I'm not doing it. Couple days maybe... and it's a WW.
 
Crypnotic

Crypnotic

Active Member
darkdestruction420 said:
I did read it all, your theory still makes no sense, white widow would have to be the most potent strain ever then you seem to be getting heated up and im real sick of arguing with you about stupid stuff. I wish you all the best, but im done with this thread. You asked us to try to correct you if you had anything wrong and then got offended because I tell you that you do?
Click to expand...
Umm, WW is one of the most potent strains ever created and some 20 years later it still is. Please tell me something: if you dont understand the most basic facts about the plant WW, how in the hell can you comment on the commplicated explanation that was given at the start of this post? You dont know the first thing about WW, yet you tell ppl on this board that the master breeder at Grennhouse doesnt know what he's talking about, even if it his STRAIN the he INVENTED. But you do know, even though you dont even have a kindergardeners understanding of it.
 
Twistedfunk

Twistedfunk

Active Member
Cannabis can only go 72 hours of productivity with no light. The scientific experiments used to determine increased THC production during this 72 hour down time only showed results in a few of the strains. Its really a crap-shoot since we don't know which strains react this way to it. Almost all plants showed increased THC levels during dark periods while only some continued to increase past the normal 12 hour mark.

OP fail.
 
420God

420God

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't say it's a fail since it's a theory. At least he tried to explain it, most other idiots here will tell you to yank the root and all and hang them because that's where the THC comes from. It's nice to see someone put some science behind it and not say that that's what his guy told him. I will agree that 2 weeks is extreme but something I would consider for curing them with a combination of dark and drowning the roots so at least your speeding up your cure by fermenting from the inside out at the same time.
 
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