Frenchy Cannoli
Well-Known Member
The person using the machine makes a big difference, much more than you would think looking at the video. Experience, dedication and love can be more important than the tool.
Why do trichomes sink?
- Thread starter Daub Marley
- Start date
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
It almost looks like the gumby method except properly packaged sorta say.
Work the material gently in a bucket with cold water, ice, and a spoon. Filter out plant material that floats, wait a few hours, syphon the water and the thc should be on the bottom.
Work the material gently in a bucket with cold water, ice, and a spoon. Filter out plant material that floats, wait a few hours, syphon the water and the thc should be on the bottom.
Daub Marley
Active Member
The thing that is special about water based extractions is that particles that are much smaller than the trichomes will stay suspended in the water for a very long time which allows you to clean out these contaminates easily. Particle that are larger than the trichomes are simply filtered out with screens, but the contaminant particles that are roughly the same size as the trichomes will get mixed in with them. So the response is to be gentle, but in doing so your removal of these heads becomes inefficient. That's exactly the same drawbacks as dry sifting. Using the water to filter dry sift is a better idea imo. The dry sift will also have these particle that are between 60 and 200 microns but they can be separated from the trichomes because they should float for slightly longer.
Frenchy Cannoli
Well-Known Member
That sum it up nicely DM.
There is so many people who think that they reinvented the "game" when they actually never took the time to learn the "game" in the first place.
My Afghanis friends show me that trick in 1980, they did not agitate and were cleaning only sieved resin that way.
To butcher your trims with an electric drill and let the trichomes collect at the bottom of the bucket is a new method???
There is so many people who think that they reinvented the "game" when they actually never took the time to learn the "game" in the first place.
My Afghanis friends show me that trick in 1980, they did not agitate and were cleaning only sieved resin that way.
To butcher your trims with an electric drill and let the trichomes collect at the bottom of the bucket is a new method???
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
So basically sift with a larger screen, like my 220u gently, collect what falls down (the gold hopefully) and then throw it in a cup of ice cold water. The gold will sink while the contaiments will float but how long should one wait? Do you stir/mix it? Eventually won't the particle/contaminants that are inbetween 60u-200u just fall down with the gold?
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Frenchy Cannoli
Well-Known Member
My memories are a little sketchy, that was a very long time ago, but I am quite sure that the process was done with no agitation whatsoever and not lasting very long at all because they did it quite a few time in one afternoon. I would say somewhere around 15 to 30 minutes but do not quote me on that please.
Daub Marley
Active Member
Yeah the bubblebag ice hash style seems like a bastard child of the original method your friends taught you. The blind are leading the blind. Learning is what I'm really all about. I see so much potential to change things in this scene for the better but it always starts with basic questions like this thread title. Most people don't think about things that in-depth. You have to continually keep asking questions like a five year old before you really start to understand whats going on.
My thinking is that the larger the pieces of plant material contaminants the longer they will stay afloat so its important to first get your dry sift clean enough so that the contaminants are roughly the same size as the heads (just the 220u probably wont do that). Then spread it evenly on the surface of the cold water with no ice and don't agitate. Wait for the heads to sink a little then skim out the plant material that stayed afloat. These like sized contaminant particles will get saturated and sink so I would guess that this should be done fairly quickly (<10min), but I'm not sure of the specifics. I am going to have to experiment a little before I know.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
It's to late, you've been quoted, I'm going to tattoo this around my neck to show everyone what you have said. And yes, my neck is that large... lol jk Frenchy, but I'll deff check it out though. Would be interesting to clean my grinder kief that way.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
What other screens do you suggests besides using just the 220u? I figured using just the 220 would be fine since most people use that as their work bag. I suppose a 190u would help clean that up a bit more?
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Good thread to which I have no answers.
Though I wonder if anyone has tried ultrasonics to break off trics?
and what is a good frequency?
Though I wonder if anyone has tried ultrasonics to break off trics?
and what is a good frequency?
Frenchy Cannoli
Well-Known Member
I start with the 190 and use the 160 to double sieve. Do you want the logo as well for the tattoo WM?
I will be in SF for the Hempfest by the way, come by.
I will be in SF for the Hempfest by the way, come by.
Daub Marley
Active Member
the 220 is fine but you want to clean out the stuff that is smaller than the heads because they will saturate quickly and ruin it. Stuff that small will cling to the bags, other trichomes, and whatever else because they are so light. A screen with holes smaller than most of the heads (<80u) can help pass the smaller contaminant through while holding onto the larger heads. You can use a light suction or vibration to help it pass through.
Yep I was just thinking about it yesterday. I've never tried the cleaners but they are pretty cheap so I might have to try it. I did the math and came up with roughly 1.7 MHz for soundwaves. At that frequency the wavelength is roughly twice the diameter of the trichome head. Who know what will actually work most effectively though.
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
Good math.
I wonder how to change the frequency in a store bought jewelry cleaner or whatever.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
Interesting, I have those sizes with my bubble bags so maybe I can use those to dry sift with. I think I have enough space on my neck for the logo as well lol.
Hempfest in SF? Sounds very possible my friend
When is the event?
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
I always wanted to try this.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
I believe I have a screen that is similar to that size. Do you sift with your hand usually or the card method? I like the idea of a vacuum, I was actually thinking of that a few days ago lol. Have you tried this yourself? I was also thinking of maybe putting a 45 micron screen on the actual vacuum itself so I can inspect what it caught.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
I really wouldn't, it damages the material quiet a bit to create those results.
Nutes and Nugs
Well-Known Member
True.
I tried some iso and it was a harsh, black nasty goo.
Other extractions tend to get complicated with equipment or chems I don't have.
Just been looking for a simple way to get rid of some trim.
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
When done right, ISO comes out very flavorful and with wonderful colors. Check out some of the pics we have out there and you'd be surprised at the quality it produces
But I understand your want for an easier way. It all depends what your going for. Dry sift, bubble, bho, qwiso. Many have pro's and con's to each style, and many times the pro's and con's differ from each person. I personaly kinda bounce around with them all. I have done more qwISO then BHO runs but I like them both, I've done bubble once with the bags and it was good. Dry sifting for me has always been the one I wanted to get better at.