Who grows DWC without a chiller?

Cooler res temps help keep unwanted bacterial and fungal growth at bay. If not using a chiller just check your solution regularly for growth. Adding small amounts H2O2 to each feeding can help keep this crap from starting.

Cover your lid from light, and there will be less chance of getting algae. Don't use organic nutes..so no micro-organism in the rez, use h2o to clean your res... I think by using a larger size tote, you will lower the temps. Have a 3 inch hole on the lid, to let warm air out.

CanadianKushSmoker said:

I've been reading conflicting reports everywhere. Some people say that a chiller is 100% necessary as well as reservoir temps of 68°.
Then other people say they grow without issues without a chiller and rez temps into the 80s.

So my question is simple.

Is a chiller 100% necessary?

I need people with experience to answer.

Thanks.

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I'm in the north... did a 16 site with 5 gal pots 100 gal rez... no chiller great quality, about 2 grams per watt 2 1000w HPS ... no stinky slimy water. Keep your temps between 72 and 77 F. Choose your nutes wisely!!! (Note: it was winter time)

ShabbaDanks said:

I'm in the north... did a 16 site with 5 gal pots 100 gal rez... no chiller great quality, about 2 grams per watt 2 1000w HPS ... no stinky slimy water. Keep your temps between 72 and 77 F. Choose your nutes wisely!!! (Note: it was winter time)

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My results were similar in Alaska in the winter indoors. Care with the pH more than anything else. Small dabs of H2O2 with every water or feed add too.

However, down here by the Mexican border helping a friend set up his MMJ it is a different story. A chiller is going to be a must for a full grow next summer.

Current Culture Nutes are the Bomb!... I usually use a bit of peroxide myself but didn't need to with these nutes. Roots were huge and white as snow... wish I had pics but I've been in Coco for a while. I plan to go back though. I need to get some automation going... my ol lady has been slacking on her job lately while I'm at work.

I never use a chiller but my ambient temps never get higher than 78 in my tent. I also do not use h2o2, but rather keep beneficial bacteria, enzymes and occasionally hydro guard to keep any pathogens away. There simply isn't one correct way, it's about trying different things and figuring what works best form your situation.

Good info from BigLittle John. My summer room temps get 80+ at times for periods. My res temps may get 74. I use Canna line nutes. Their beneficial bacteria is excellent. Ideally you should get a chiller for ease and piece of mind but..... If the budget doesn't allow use a line of nutes with a low salt content and keep the feedings light. Add frozen water bottles and cover the res with reflective mylar or insulation.

Lenny Scroggins said:

Frozen water bottles can help, but a little work. Tub in a tub works good, you place the smaller dwc tub inside a larger tub keeping the larger with cold water. & adding the frozen water bottles is easier. A bath tub works great, keep the level close to the level in the dwc helps keep it cooler. Get a water chiller if you can't consistently keep the water temp. near 21C (70F) it will be worth it. Way to grow!!!

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That is just genius !! I know what I’ll be doing tomorrow

Some people can screw up everything and never get root rot. Others have it near perfect and get it. You can add stuff to your Rez or get a cooler, or add a good air-gap under your pots to the Rez. Several ways to deal with it.

I don't use a chiller.. BUT i grow in my basement which stays cool most of the year.. right now it's hanging around 62 but in the tents around 72-73 with water in that same temp range.. Summer will get slightly warmer.. I just ordered some Southern AG in case i have issues as it warms up out.

Old thread, but I've done both.

Pythium (70% of root rot cases) grows just fine at 65F.
Water at 75-80F can hold enough oxygen to keep the plants healthy.

Chiller is unnecessary.

Currently using 5 gal buckets, using the much hated botanicare nutrients, but im having great results, using hydroguard, and my 6" vortex fan im using for a cool air intake is basically sitting on the floor blowing cool air on the buckets, ive noticed a big temp variance with bucket lids ive applied foil tape to, they reflect alot of heat from the lights above, helps keep rez temps low, my water is between 68 and 71f.
Im also in a basement with the buckets on the floor. Using a 315cmh blue and 1000 watt led full spectum, for veg and shits going crazy, no issues, beautiful root growth.
I normaly do a full res change once a week, and top off and ph as needed, they are drinking about a gallon a day.
Maintaing 5.8 ph with my ppm's not ever going over 610.
I took a 10 year break, got new lights for makin big yeilders, and yea, ive got some big ass plants goin into flower this weeked.
Ill need to set a RDWC with atleast a 30 gallon reservoir, just to stay on top of things, and it will allow me to be away for more than a couple days.

You can also use an ice probe.
I grow in a 5gal bucket and while its not much my 4x4 tent can get hot (low to mid 80's) in the summer months so that brings up the water temps. I drill a 1/4" hole low on the bucket and use aquarium grade silicone to seal it up. Its over the top but works.

I went the 5 gal water cooler and frozen water bottles route a few years ago.. It worked well for me, but adding the bottles twice a day got to be a real pia.. Started to use an Ice Probe farther on in the same thread but lost the started plants.. Will restart it again soon.

Rahz said:

Old thread, but I've done both.

Pythium (70% of root rot cases) grows just fine at 65F.
Water at 75-80F can hold enough oxygen to keep the plants healthy.

Chiller is unnecessary.

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And now it's even older,
but say, the only problem with high res temps would be inferior oxygen content? Nothing to do with optimal nutrient uptake for example? If so, with a good ass air pump and slightly h2o2 treated solution I'm posed to be Gucci all the way, right?

The first time I did DWC without a chiller it was fine. In most cases it's fine. The problem starts if you get dead matter or if you over heat itll trigger rot and without a chiller it would spread faster than your setup can deal with it. Hydroguard and similar enzyme products help break down matter so it does help but its not guaranteed to keep up with a buildup. You can also run a sterilized system where you add chlorine products (like uc roots) or mix your own, or add hydrogen peroxide (which is awesome for the oxygen boost). The last option is to never use products with chlorine or h2o2 and instead you add benificial bacteria and microbes and fungus, which will out compete bad shit growing in there and also help break down plant food to a more usable form for the plants. It's a symbiotic relationship that exists in nature. I ran into root rot and I like my chiller now. I also add benificial microbes. Oh, I am a total newb not a pro just sharing what i know. If you can keep the bad stuff from growing one way or another without a chiller, it's actually better for growth, plants like warm roots but generally speaking a chiller is the best bet if you want less risk. It's very easy to get root rot and it happens very fast without a chiller.

Since i started using southern AG i don't even worry bout my roots anymore.. best $16 i have spent on growing

Soiless said:

And now it's even older,
but say, the only problem with high res temps would be inferior oxygen content? Nothing to do with optimal nutrient uptake for example? If so, with a good ass air pump and slightly h2o2 treated solution I'm posed to be Gucci all the way, right?

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Maybe. I mean, you'll find some people who swear by peroxide as a preventative but I prefer to use beneficial bacteria to inoculate roots. A one time treatment just after the clone stage is all it takes to prevent root rot for an entire grow. I know someone who doesn't use anything, works in a sealed and well filtered room and keeps things very clean, soaks everything in bleach between uses. Since switching to LED he keeps the room at 70F.

I've played around with using bennies on cuttings. A multi strain product is likely to stress the clones and delay or prevent root formation. I have had success with a single strain product, Azos, used on cuttings. I still use a multi strain product when moving them over to a veg environment.

And though I use bennies, I do clean everything well between uses, light bleach solution ran through pumps for several hours and soak all small parts in bleach solution.

Rahz said:

Maybe. I mean, you'll find some people who swear by peroxide as a preventative but I prefer to use beneficial bacteria to inoculate roots. A one time treatment just after the clone stage is all it takes to prevent root rot for an entire grow. I know someone who doesn't use anything, works in a sealed and well filtered room and keeps things very clean, soaks everything in bleach between uses. Since switching to LED he keeps the room at 70F.

I've played around with using bennies on cuttings. A multi strain product is likely to stress the clones and delay or prevent root formation. I have had success with a single strain product, Azos, used on cuttings. I still use a multi strain product when moving them over to a veg environment.

And though I use bennies, I do clean everything well between uses, light bleach solution ran through pumps for several hours and soak all small parts in bleach solution.

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I've got a few grows under my belt, not too many, all DWC, Never used a chiller and Never had any problems with root rot and root diseases of any sort.
In a couple of months i plan on starting growing again, and getting some gear and thought about adding a chiller to the list to try and give the best environment i could.
Is that all there is to it though? Root disease? or does product really benefit from low temps like that?

Soiless said:

Is that all there is to it though? Root disease? or does product really benefit from low temps like that?

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more DO at lower temps.
rot can happen at any temps but lower helps as a preventative
but if i remember correctly, the plant actually prefers a warmer res temp for better nute absorption.