Which reds, blues, and uvb diodes?

im building a 400w 1400mA cxb 3590 for a 2.5x4.5x6.5 box and I wanted to add 5w reds blues and uvb diodes to each in arrangements of 25w

So basically each 2.5x2.25 half will have 200w of 3500k cxb light, 25w of spectrum boost.

Anyone mind recommending some really efficient diodes and drivers? Cost isn't a problem.

Would be nice to run ten 5w diodes; 2 deep red, 2 red, 2 deep blue, 2 royal blue, 2 uvb. If I could run them all in a series or 2 sets of series it would be cool too..

So what kind of reactions are you expecting from narrow band targeting? Are you going to put each spectrum on separate dimmers? The amount of blue you want to run is overkill IMO and will stress the eff out of your plants. Your CXB has a lot of blue (450nm) to begin with so adding Royal Blue is practically deadly unless you know something I don't. I've recently read that 15% Blue is what you want when flowering most MMJ plants so adding heavy 630/660nm will definitely be on your list. Adding UVB is tough too cause once you pass a certain amount it's not a positive stress to the plant. You'll begin to damage molecules and such and defeat any benefits.

http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/43/7/1951.full
In addition to changes in appearance and productivity, plant responses to narrow-bandwidth light sources or to supplemental LED lighting range from decreased viral resistance in pepper to increased suppression of pathogens in tomato and cucumber to increased nitrate accumulation in spinach (Kim et al., 2005 and references therein). These studies are just the tip of an as yet unmapped iceberg of crop responses to narrow-spectrum lighting. Future needs for controlled environment crop management also will involve interactions of lighting parameters with still other environmental factors. Crop breeders could, for example, select phenotypes with desirable traits expressed in response to unique lighting conditions

FranJan said:

So what kind of reactions are you expecting from narrow band targeting? Are you going to put each spectrum on separate dimmers? The amount of blue you want to run is overkill IMO and will stress the eff out of your plants. Your CXB has a lot of blue (450nm) to begin with so adding Royal Blue is practically deadly unless you know something I don't. I've recently read that 15% Blue is what you want when flowering most MMJ plants so adding heavy 630/660nm will definitely be on your list. Adding UVB is tough too cause once you pass a certain amount it's not a positive stress to the plant. You'll begin to damage molecules and such and defeat any benefits.

http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/43/7/1951.full
In addition to changes in appearance and productivity, plant responses to narrow-bandwidth light sources or to supplemental LED lighting range from decreased viral resistance in pepper to increased suppression of pathogens in tomato and cucumber to increased nitrate accumulation in spinach (Kim et al., 2005 and references therein). These studies are just the tip of an as yet unmapped iceberg of crop responses to narrow-spectrum lighting. Future needs for controlled environment crop management also will involve interactions of lighting parameters with still other environmental factors. Crop breeders could, for example, select phenotypes with desirable traits expressed in response to unique lighting conditions

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thanks for the schooling. i was of the mind that if i saturate each spectrum and raised the lights higher i would have better diffused light. however i must read more into this before hand cause i don't want to kill my plants=P thanks again

x2 on the 625/630/660nm.....also if I personally was also running high umol/s or high PPF relative to the particular space....I might also want to try running some broad spectrum green to saturate lower in the canopy if 1000+ppfd of r/b is being absorbed into the top layers of the canopy...also have to bob and weave with each and every cultivar too, different light strokes for different folks etc, this shouldn't be overlooked either imho....UVB? we don't need no stinking UV

UV B specific diodes don't exist, yet. Currently and until UV B are produced, the best way to add UV B is to use the high output reptile bulbs.

I am currently using two UV A/B cfl bulbs and have been using them since the beginning of my current grow. My small LED array and the UV A/B bulbs turn on and off at the same time.

Yes, UV radiation add some additional stress to plant. However the sun never stops producing UV radiation. Plants in general have genetic defense mechanisms that get activated when exposed to UV radiation.

Rayne said:

UV B specific diodes don't exist, yet.

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They exist, they just ain't worth the price. Yet.
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/products/light-sources/leds/uv-leds
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/sites/default/files/pdf/datasheet/UV-LED-SL-Datasheet-web.pdf


So how much UVB is ideal for flowering MMJ? And how do you test the benefit? (Yeah, OK, ha,ha) But seriously how do you know it's the UVB or the added light. Reptile bulbs are broader than just UVB so they do add other benefits to the grow space. Until someone really starts playing with these narrow band monos we probably aren't going to know the absolute truth on UVB and MMJ.

FranJan said:

They exist, they just ain't worth the price. Yet.
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/products/light-sources/leds/uv-leds
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/sites/default/files/pdf/datasheet/UV-LED-SL-Datasheet-web.pdf

So how much UVB is ideal for flowering MMJ? And how do you test the benefit? (Yeah, OK, ha,ha) But seriously how do you know it's the UVB or the added light. Reptile bulbs are broader than just UVB so they do add other benefits to the grow space. Until someone really starts playing with these narrow band monos we probably aren't going to know the absolute truth on UVB and MMJ.

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I was going to do 5w of led engine uv 400nm per ~4sq ft. And have them run all the time.

My CXBs will be Dimmed with a 1/2 watt 100k potentiometer. I actually don't know if this is what I need but I'm hoping so. My friend and I are going to try and program a arduino uno to dim them instead with a touch screen.

Do you think I should just stick with some more red diodes and scrap the uv and blue diodes?

Thorhax said:

Do you think I should just stick with some more red diodes and scrap the uv and blue diodes?

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yes

throw a T5 powerveg or t8 reptisun in there if you want abundant UV

as for blue... there are ample efficient cobs in 4000, 5000, 5700, and 6500k that should easily eliminate any need for blue supplementation

Thorhax said:

I was going to do 5w of led engine uv 400nm per ~4sq ft. And have them run all the time.

My CXBs will be Dimmed with a 1/2 watt 100k potentiometer. I actually don't know if this is what I need but I'm hoping so. My friend and I are going to try and program a arduino uno to dim them instead with a touch screen.

Do you think I should just stick with some more red diodes and scrap the uv and blue diodes?

Click to expand...

Right now I'm a big proponent of mixing different size COBs and Kelvins, i.e. Vero 29s or Luminus CXM32s 3000Ks as the main lights and supplementing them with smaller clusters of COBs like the 4000K CREE CXB1830s but in your case if you get the UVB diodes you probably don't need additional blue like 420/430nm and if you're using a COB with a 610nm peak then adding 630/660nm isn't a bad idea. I would get more 630nm than 660nm but that's just a personal choice of mine nowadays.

a) youre wasting your time using anything but 3590s
b)90% of your mono needs can be addressed by correcting your cob spectrum with a differnt color LES

FranJan said:

They exist, they just ain't worth the price. Yet.
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/products/light-sources/leds/uv-leds
http://www.intl-lighttech.com/sites/default/files/pdf/datasheet/UV-LED-SL-Datasheet-web.pdf

So how much UVB is ideal for flowering MMJ? And how do you test the benefit? (Yeah, OK, ha,ha) But seriously how do you know it's the UVB or the added light. Reptile bulbs are broader than just UVB so they do add other benefits to the grow space. Until someone really starts playing with these narrow band monos we probably aren't going to know the absolute truth on UVB and MMJ.

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For anyone reading this post...

1. In regards to testing the benefit....

A) Please, feel free to try a grow with one reptile UV A / UV B T5 or CFL bulb. When that grow is done add another UV A / UV B T5 or CFL bulb.
B)Have you had a joint or a water pipe bowl full of cannabis grown with UV radiation added? I am sure you have had a joint or a water pipe bowl full of cannabis grown without adding UV radiation.

2. The exact amount of UV radiation is irrelevant. Most of the UV B radiation the sun produces is filtered out as it passes through the Earth's atmosphere.

Have ever wondered why cannabis grown outside is better than cannabis grown inside?

Stop allowing yourself to be crippled by the lack of certain information before you test something that is known to be beneficial.

3. Of course the reptile bulbs offer more than just UV B specific radiation. Please, kindly, realize...I have been using such bulbs for two grows now. As I am looking at the box of a single 26 watt Exo-Terra "Desert" UV B CFL bulb. The manufacturer states the bulbs throw out UV A and UV B radiation. In addition to the UV radiation the reptile bulbs throw out some of the blue, green, yellow, and little bit of red PAR spectrum.

Rayne I have 2 4 foot T8 UVB reptile bulbs in my closet atm. They were in my tent and I used them and liked what they did to my Blue Cheese but once I switched from CREE bulbs to COBs I found them to be unnecessary though I can't say I sent any of the Blue Cheese I was growing to a lab. And I used them for more than two grows and on a few other strains, Black Widow, Critical Mass, SLH.

You want to win arguments, go to law school. "The exact amount is irrelevant" and "outdoor weed is better" are flat out horseshit statements IMO. "Stop allowing yourself to be crippled by the lack of certain information before you test something that is known to be beneficial." That's just arrogance. You've confused your experience and your opinion with knowledge. I have no use for you. Good day.

i have also been thinkin about this lately

seems 620nm would be the right mono to add
reason for adding is just to fill the space left on the driver

the green sounds interesting too


would 660 be better than 620?

FranJan said:

Rayne I have 2 4 foot T8 UVB reptile bulbs in my closet atm. They were in my tent and I used them and liked what they did to my Blue Cheese but once I switched from CREE bulbs to COBs I found them to be unnecessary though I can't say I sent any of the Blue Cheese I was growing to a lab. And I used them for more than two grows and on a few other strains, Black Widow, Critical Mass, SLH.

You want to win arguments, go to law school. "The exact amount is irrelevant" and "outdoor weed is better" are flat out horseshit statements IMO. "Stop allowing yourself to be crippled by the lack of certain information before you test something that is known to be beneficial." That's just arrogance. You've confused your experience and your opinion with knowledge. I have no use for you. Good day.

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You go,FranJan..BAM

FranJan said:

Right now I'm a big proponent of mixing different size COBs and Kelvins, i.e. Vero 29s or Luminus CXM32s 3000Ks as the main lights and supplementing them with smaller clusters of COBs like the 4000K CREE CXB1830s but in your case if you get the UVB diodes you probably don't need additional blue like 420/430nm and if you're using a COB with a 610nm peak then adding 630/660nm isn't a bad idea. I would get more 630nm than 660nm but that's just a personal choice of mine nowadays.

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How many watts of each with the uvb, red, and deep red set up?

FranJan said:

Right now I'm a big proponent of mixing different size COBs and Kelvins, i.e. Vero 29s or Luminus CXM32s 3000Ks as the main lights and supplementing them with smaller clusters of COBs like the 4000K CREE CXB1830s but in your case if you get the UVB diodes you probably don't need additional blue like 420/430nm and if you're using a COB with a 610nm peak then adding 630/660nm isn't a bad idea. I would get more 630nm than 660nm but that's just a personal choice of mine nowadays.

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What led you to those decisions? What effects do you tend to see?

Rayne said:

Why assume I am trying to win an argument? I don't care if you or anyone else has any use for me.

Oh, I have graduated from Law school.

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I hope you cited better in law school....because the argument wasn't exactly compelling

Outdoor better than indoor??????
cultivar to cultivar? what is the scenario?, more ambiguity......
quantified by what means?

UVB mostly filtered out??????
is that a climate or landscape change you subscribe to?
my neighbor 50-100 feet away in my little locale can have a different UVB profile....50 feet away
yet you nary this away with ambiguity again ?

Cripple...tha Crip.....Crippies....whats your point, a mid 90's west coast cut....Definitely not Frannies perspective, since he is one of the more progressive with actually TRYING some experiments and following thru, not just gossiping, which is basically all you typed. Expert!