What's going on?

Marlo95

Active Member
I'm growing DWC and its about week 4 in flower. My leaves aren't looking too good though. They're getting kinda crispy and spots. I run the floranova bloom at 600 ph at 5.5 to 6.4image.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

cassinfo

Well-Known Member
I has the same issue..some heat stress and cal/mag was what was suggested...anyhow..she didn't make it. I hope u fine your solution.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Your nutes are way too low imo, I've never used flora Nova but I'd imagine 900+ would be a better ballpark
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Ohhhhh crap, I didn't think about root rot. That could be the culprit. That's why I haven't run organic in hydro, there really isn't a point in doing so. Good catch man.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Right on, I haven't had it in my veg/flower hydro systems thank God, but the one time I added rapid root (organic I think) to my bubble cloner I got instant stem rot, lost like 4 batches of clones and ended up throwing the cloner out. Organic and hydro don't play well together that's for sure
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
I've heard good things about the heisenburg tea as well but I have only run sterile res. I've been considering running a bennie res for quite some time but haven't took the leap yet. I just use pool shock in my cloner and have yet to have a problem when using it. I was using the pool shock in my veg/bloom res but switched to dm zone for a preventative and it seems to be working well.
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
Pics under white light might help with identifying the problem. IMO your pH is fine, I vary mine from 5.5 to 6.5 and have zero problems. Should be easy enough to spot root rot, but, if it is that then try soaking in a strong peroxide solution, wash off/remove any slimy/dead organic material, sterilize your rez and then add hygrozyme as well as GH Sub-B and Sub-M (double the strength for the first few feedings) to the nutes, add backstrap molasses to feed the bennies and make sure to keep your rez temps below 66 F.
 

warble

Well-Known Member
If its not heat, can it be that her humidity is too low? I would suggest calmag. I don't run floranova, but did someone tell you that was all you needed? It seems like a burn, but your temps don't indicate that. Can't be nute burn at 600. I looked up the npk and there seems to be quite a bit of nitrogen in there. That could burn a cannabis plant in flower. You might want to bump up your potassium too. When I started indoor, I used one nute, and it got me through the end, but when you start adding all of the parts, the plant stays healthier. Enjoy.
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
Potassium deficiency?
Yes i agree it could be K def.
Potassium Deficiency in Cannabis Plants
By nevash April 11, 2013 8363 Views Leave a comment Go to comments


Marijuana plants require adequate nutrition in order to develop properly and reach full maturity. Among the many nutrients that cannabis plants require, potassium is considered to be one of the major building blocks or primary nutrients that contribute to the development of healthy cannabis plants. In fact, this essential nutrient promotes growth during cell division as well as synthesis and transportation of sugars and starches. Potassium also increases chlorophyll in leaves and also regulates opening and closing of stomata. In addition, it facilitates growth of a strong root system and activates enzymes that fight off disease. Due to its vital role, potassium is required by marijuana plants during all stages of growth.

However, when cannabis plants lack the right amount of potassium, this triggers disorders that manifest in the form of discolored foliage. At the onset, the plants appear to be healthy, but with a distinct dark green luster on the leaves. Only a keen grower would notice the early signs associated with potassium deficiency, but as the condition progresses the signs become more apparent. In advanced stages, older leaves lose color by turning yellow which is accompanied with rust-colored blotches. The plant may also stretch thus causing the stem to become weak. Eventually, the leaves curl up, rot and die before falling off the branches. If a potassium deficiency develops during the flowering stage, some of the initial signs that would be noticed include abnormal bud growth and diminished size of buds. In advanced stages the flowers may start to drop from the ailing marijuana plant.

When left untreated, potassium deficiency in marijuana plants will see your dreams of enjoying a bounty harvest go down the drain. Unfortunately, chlorosis (or discoloration of foliage) is irreversible in the case of potassium deficiency. In fact, leaves that are affected burn and die. In order to address problems with potassium intake, the root cause of the problem first needs to be uncovered.

An imbalance in water pH can interfere with intake of potassium as well as other nutrients required by marijuana plants. As a result of this, it is imperative to always test the pH of water constantly so as to ensure that it is within the recommended levels. High levels of salinity, poor soil nutrition and nutrient toxicity may also cause potassium deficiency. In the case of pH imbalance, a simple adjustment of pH can correct the problem. In fact, it is important to correct pH problems before treating the growth medium with potassium rich nutrients because a pH imbalance can inhibit potassium intake even when the mineral is present in fertile soil.

Salinity that blocks intake of potassium in cannabis plants can be corrected by adjusting the pH of the growth medium with dolomite while calcium and nitrogen toxicity can be corrected by flushing out the plants’ system with water that contains half-strength nutrients.

Keep in mind that mineral deficiencies in marijuana plants require patients and the correct approach to correct the root cause of the problem. Taking the wrong measures will only lead to further complications that would kill your plants.
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
Yeah RR is fairly easy to diagnose with one note, your roots can be stained tan/yellowish by some additives, so color isn't the only indicator. You can tell by looking closely, there's often a slimy coating, and they'll break off more easily than healthy roots. But when I had it, I don't remember the leaves looking like that, more of an over-all wilting appearance if I recall correctly, but then I'm sure there's probably a lot of variations and stages of RR.

But my first impression was some kind of nute problem or possibly a leaf blight/fungus (what's your humidity?), better pics would help as I mentioned. Also, IMO, it's not a low humidity problem. While I do normally try to keep rH at around 50-60% until late flower when I drop it to the 40's, from personal xp I've found you can drop it to 30% and as long as you don't let the root zone dry out, they do just fine. Plus I've found there does seem to be a response to low rH, seems the girls put out more trichs to protect the buds, but that is just based on my subjective observations. Good luck getting it figured out ;?D
 
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