what will i need for this room?
- Thread starter fasts10
- Start date
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
heres a list of some basics
mylar
DIY carbon filter
>pencil holders
>active carbon
>pantyhose
caulk
pc fans
2x4 wood
fan
party cups
ducttape
electrical tape
screws
gorrila glue
plywood
hinges
padlock
reflector
potting soil
manure
worm castings
sand
perlite
blood meal
bone meal
bloom boosters
mylar
DIY carbon filter
>pencil holders
>active carbon
>pantyhose
caulk
pc fans
2x4 wood
fan
party cups
ducttape
electrical tape
screws
gorrila glue
plywood
hinges
padlock
reflector
potting soil
manure
worm castings
sand
perlite
blood meal
bone meal
bloom boosters
jondamon
Well-Known Member
5x5 = 25
25x6 = 150cfm
Minus 20% for your intake 120cfm
So in order to remove the air from your room once a minute and replenish with enough new air while maintaining negative pressure you need a 150cfm fan for exhaust and a 120cfm fan for your intake. This however does not allow for your 1000w light.
I personally would want 3 air changes a minute if I wasn't using an air cooled hood.
So 150x3= 450cfm for exhaust plus 5% if using an air cooled reflector or plus 15% if using an open reflector.
Then have your intake fan 20% lower cfm's
J
25x6 = 150cfm
Minus 20% for your intake 120cfm
So in order to remove the air from your room once a minute and replenish with enough new air while maintaining negative pressure you need a 150cfm fan for exhaust and a 120cfm fan for your intake. This however does not allow for your 1000w light.
I personally would want 3 air changes a minute if I wasn't using an air cooled hood.
So 150x3= 450cfm for exhaust plus 5% if using an air cooled reflector or plus 15% if using an open reflector.
Then have your intake fan 20% lower cfm's
J
motorcitymadman
Member
Im going through the same thing with a similiar room.but it matters how u have your air intake and exhuast set up?air cooled hood or not?u should be venting the scrubbed air out and away from the room your set up is in ie. window,dryer vent,chimmny ect...And from what i was told bigger is better with a speed controller.remember and a carbon filter,bends in the venting and long vent runs are gonna reduce the effectivness of your fan....so a 6" 400cfm is gonna be less then advertised.sorry for the long winded answer,hope this helps
fasts10
Well-Known Member
thanks jondamon for stoping bye! i just got a 400cfm but im going to use that one for exhaust.. i'm hoping that aint to much,but since i have some rating numbers i can go shopping..
fasts10
Well-Known Member
you guys been alot of help! i would like to get it right the first time.. i've read some horror storys if you dont.. hopefully i'll have a journal soon..
jondamon
Well-Known Member
I cool a 600w with a 400cfm fan in a sealed lighting rig. It has it's own cold air intake and no grow room air passes through it. Then I have a 200cfm fan to exhaust and scrub the room. I utilise passive intakes as I live in the UK.
If you want superior temp control then I would recommend the following
1x 400cfm fan with air cooled hood
1x 200cfm fan and filter combo for scrubbing
1x 150cfm fan for intake
Setup your lighting rig so you duct it from outside the room through the room through your light out the other side of your room. This way zero grow room air passes through your lighting system. Then setup your other 2 fans and the filter in the normal way.
J
If you want superior temp control then I would recommend the following
1x 400cfm fan with air cooled hood
1x 200cfm fan and filter combo for scrubbing
1x 150cfm fan for intake
Setup your lighting rig so you duct it from outside the room through the room through your light out the other side of your room. This way zero grow room air passes through your lighting system. Then setup your other 2 fans and the filter in the normal way.
J
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Sorry I haven't replied sooner.
If you use the same as I have then a 600 or 1000 is controllable as long as your passive air temp is cool enough.
J
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