What isa purge

vacpurge

New Member
Thank both of you so much for the knowledge. I live like a 2 min walk away from wal mart I think im gunna have to invest in a pancake griddle. I mean I can also cook nice breakfast on it as well as use it for my medicinal reasons so its a good investment. So I should just let my solvents evaporate naturally 1st, then do a light heat purge on a griddle, is that correct and safe method? all done out side or in a superventilated area (not my place)?
it depends how scared and impatient you are.

personally, Im not too scared of an explosion because I think im doing it pretty safe, and im also very impatient... so I set it on the griddle on low heat outside with a fan... still take about 4 hours for a nice purge. if you let it sit it takes like 24 hours naturally, and you risk getting dust and shit in your oil. also, it needs heat to fully purge anyways at the end so you may as well introduce heat right off the bat. nothing crazy though. 100-120F max.

do it outside in the middle of the yard.. not in a corner between the shed and fence sorta things. fuck the neighbors.
 

Skunkybud

Well-Known Member
I was thinking I was gunna get my hands on some hexane but after some searching around I don't think I can get any locally. Maybe i'm just looking in the wrong spots that and when I ask around and people ask me why I've been saying strange things like I'm making a mint extract or pepper extract for some hot sauce. People believe it but they may be uneducated (me aswell maybe you can exract those things lol) I think I'm gunna try another run with iso and do another side by side with some 5x butane to compare.I'm gunna purge with the griddle idea. I made a butane extractor from 3/4 pvc and caps each end I use cheese cloth for a filter at the end. For the butane I'm gunna do a hot water bath initially to get the mass of the butane out (I'l be doing it outside of course) then I will do a very low heat purge 100-110 F. And I'll do something similar with the Iso but I will boil some water ahead of time 212 let it cool a lil and give it a boil water bath (hot water = no spark = no fire outside) then purge at a slightly higher temp 110-120 F. I want to compare the product and see which one I like best. Will that be a good method kind sirs?
I know it was a little scatter brained the way I wrote things I just drank some coffee and I'm not really a coffee person I'm a lil hyped up. I'm staying away from coffee from now on I can't handle it too well. :)
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Well first I should say PVC should be avoided but its all good for just 1 use.. also make sure you do the evap at night if possible, light kills the product and turns it amber. Also you didn't mention iso method, make sure everything is frozen at least overnight and no more than a 30 second wash..but yea good luck

In my opinion freezing the butane and trying a long soak and then winterizing in the iso(depending on iso purity) will give you the most efficient extraction and bho is a bit more foolproof than a good qwiso...... iso is my personal favorite solvent to use

Lol well hexane is what's used most often then winterized in ethanol to produce yummy essential oils that you buy at stores
 

Skunkybud

Well-Known Member
Can you explain winterizing what does that do? Does that make that awesome golden shatter type oil I'm used to buying for like 70-80 a g? I mean if I'm asking too many questions that I can just find on here just lemme know or send me a link but it'd be cool if you can just explain it in lay-mans terms so I can get a general idea of how it works and I can gain my own understanding of how it works. I see people talk about how they did winterize their hash but they would never really divulge in the process as if it was something simple, which i'm sure it is, it just sounds like a complicated process because the word winterize sounds overly complex to my slightly medicated brain. And what is to be avoided about pvc I've used my pvc rig like 3 times already.
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Basically butane can take small amounts of plastic ickiness off the PVC.. winterizing removes the fats, waxes and other lipophillic (fat loving)compounds. What makes them lipophillic or hydro is based on polarity... butane is non polar (lipophillic) ethanol and iso are relatively polar, meaning they won't allow lipophillic substances...

Solubility is largely based on polarity, temp (and acidity) so if you heat the polar ethanol or iso it will absorb the extract left from a butane wash. After freezing it the solubility of the waxes and fats decreases. These lipophillic non polar waxes precipitate as a solid out of the solution. It can then be filtered

The waxes and fats removed make up the harshness and congestive properties smoked hash oil can sometimes bring. This process does not remove terpenes and will drastically increase the quality of a butane(non polar) extract... if you start with an iso or etoh wash its nit as necessary and shatter can easily be produced using a single polar wash.. iso in the middle of butane and ethanol gives the best extract only using a single wash......but for compounds such as thca and precursory cannabinoids to move about the plant (as well as all compounds within the plant) they must be relatively polar. Because of this iso or etoh can extract a dirty product if left in solvent too long....which is why a long soak in butane that's allowed to pull every last cannabinoid and wat/fat. And winterized to remove the wax/fats will give a better yield than iso or etoh.
 

Skunkybud

Well-Known Member
Thank you brotha. You have been a plethora of knowledge to me man and I hope others read this thread and learn as much as I have. qwizoking do you mind if I pm you if I have any questions in the future? When I make my next product I will post pics and a smoke report as well as step by step directions I went through to come up with my product. I hope it'll help future concentrate noobs like myself.
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
The waxes and fats removed make up the harshness and congestive properties smoked hash oil can sometimes bring. This process does not remove terpenes and will drastically increase the quality of a butane(non polar) extract... if you start with an iso or etoh wash its nit as necessary and shatter can easily be produced using a single polar wash.. iso in the middle of butane and ethanol gives the best extract only using a single wash......but for compounds such as thca and precursory cannabinoids to move about the plant (as well as all compounds within the plant) they must be relatively polar. Because of this iso or etoh can extract a dirty product if left in solvent too long....which is why a long soak in butane that's allowed to pull every last cannabinoid and wat/fat. And winterized to remove the wax/fats will give a better yield than iso or etoh.
I thought the winterization got rid of fats/waxes/and lipids? Arnt terps lipids? ..I must be doin somthing wrong cause my stuff never has any real taste or smell after winterization...only thing I can think to change is time in freezer, out amount of etho used to dissolve per g, I don't use to much heat I don't think..
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Fats and waxes are highly lipophillic. For a compound to have drug likeness it must be polar to a slight degree(allowing crossing of the blood brain barrier and to be soluble in the blood).. also as mentioned in the terpene isolating page and here, winterizing is how commercial perfume/essential oils are made. They will stay dissolved in the ethanol. It should be noted thc itself is a monoterpene, anything affecting flavor effects potency. I do all my extracts in the dark and under 70 degrees even in the purge. 75 degrees or so is when lighter terpenes began to volatize into the air (I also dry/cure at 70 or under for this reason)
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Well your wrong there. Thc is in fact an aromatic monoterpene, and its probly lost its taste due to an inefficient extraction. Notice you said absolute amber, thc is clear. However not all the compounds are. I suspect a large portion of your product has degraded and oxidized.. but its impossible (and this in not an opinion) for your product to be devoid of terps meaning a lack of smell, Sesquiterpenes and heavier compounds within the plant have a much higher boiling point than thc. The only way your product lost its flavor is if you oxidized it/put under strong light, heat ect This degrades thc (and other terpenes, causing color change) cbd and some degratory products are quite potent and not effected as much by heat or light.. rendering your product tasteless, sedative and amber in color.....again its important to note all cannabinoids are terpenes, anything affecting flavor effects potency... any terp effecting cb receptors is called a cannabinoid. There is virtually no difference (except a phenol group) between most cannabinoids and terpenes. They are one and the same


Whoops nvm just saw you said reclaim....well either way, proves my point
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
In the isolating terpenes page. Distillation was the primary thought of how to go about extracting terpenes. Which isn't too different than a vaporizers reclaim. This is a wonderful example of why solvents are used in the industry to extract fragrence from heat sensitive materials instead of steam distillation. Terpenes and cannabinoids being basically the same thing, have similar properties. The aromatic terpenes are heat and light sensitive as well as chlorine, o2, acids ect. Any oxidizer will harm the flavor and high of your end product....but yea reclaim obviously having been previously smoked/vaped is going to lack a lot of thc and terpenes
 

MiG pilot

Well-Known Member
Yes, it is about reclaim - fully oxidized condensate of completely decarboxylated resin with an absolute lack of any characteristic odor.
Despite the complete lack of odor psychoactivity of this product is very high. This means that the smell is not mandatory key to action.
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
This kinda off subject, but since u experienced guys r already in the thread ill just ask here...I heard "organic grape ethanol" holds the taste or is in some way better than everclear, my gut tells me BS, ethos is etho, but I figured I'd ask..also same guy claims to winterize with butane, and info on this?
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
No. See post 33...it clearly states your amber degraded product probably won't have many active terpenes or delta 9 thc. They are degraded, therefore no longer the same chemical, oxidized terps don't produce a characteristic odor because they've been oxidised. Likewise delta 9 is oxidized to delta 8 ....etc

Instead of arguing(what it seems to me) just reread my posts. If you have questions as to how it works I can explain. But to say that I'm wrong would require you to post multiple studies. And to provide a scientific reasoning. Otherwise I have multiple studies for everything I say as well as a PhD to back it up...but no studies should be required as its common sense/basic chemistry
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Yea see my response in that thread... if its 95% etoh as azeotrope allows with the remainder being distilled water. Their is no difference whatsoever..fade agreed in that thread as well.. nobody else somewhat knowledgeable commented (pretty sure)
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
Thx qwiso, what bout butane winterization? I guess blast into a jar or thermos then pop in a deep freezer? Or the guy is full of shit?
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
Completely full of shit bro. You can't winterize in a completely non polar solvent. Iso is actually really non polar, so is ethanol. Look at a ph index polar water is 9 iso somewhere around 4 etoh 6 and butane 0.. this is just an estimate off memory. But my point being a completely non polar solvent will not pull waxes when you freeze.. but the solvent must be somewhat non polar to hold the cannabinoids. Etoh is best, iso will work butane will not. A ph index would out it in better perspective. Ill put up a link in a bit
 
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