What are the differences between Mean Well A, B and C driver versions?

CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Redoctober said:
Wouldn't you need a minimum of a 52v driver for the 1818 series?
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most 48As go up to 53V+ which is ~120W for an 1818

Redoctober said:
Does such a driver exist? Mean Well (CV) drivers seem to only go up to 48v
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every HLG CC driver from HLG-40 up to HLG-600 are available in 54 A and B versions

Redoctober said:
Can you still wire in both series and parallel with constant voltage?
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sure. as long as you meet the voltage for your cob/diodes.

a 48V driver can run an almost unlimited number of strings of (4) 12V cobs in series

a cob itself is a bunch of dies in parallel and series
 
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Dachem2010

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if there is a certain way to dim them I have 2 HLG-185H-20A or just pick one I was having the current wide open and adjusting by voltage or I could have the voltage wide open and limit the current is either way the best or more efficient
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Im not 100% on this, but i think it it most efficient to run the driver at it rated current and amperage. Dimming down loses efficiency.
The a type drivers have a range of voltages and currents they can be adjusted to, not 0 to whatever the rated max is.
You should get the driver that matches your requirements. The type b drivers are much easier to deal with because you dont have to get a screwdriver into the driver whenever you want to dim down.
If you already have the driver, I would set the voltage to where it needs to be at whatever given current you plan on running. That info should be in the datasheet for whatever led's you are powering.
 
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Dachem2010

Well-Known Member
Well I got two of the type a's because they I like to be able to control voltage and current I got two of them in case I wanted to expand later not really worrying about the four or five percent efficiency decrease it is a split tent that in case I wanted to run clones of something if I wanted too i have that option. that is why I got two of them they are running around 81% of their rated Max but the a series I found out can pump out 228 Watts out of 185 watt driver
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Dachem2010 said:
Well I got two of the type a's because they I like to be able to control voltage and current I got two of them in case I wanted to expand later not really worrying about the four or five percent efficiency decrease it is a split tent that in case I wanted to run clones of something if I wanted too i have that option. that is why I got two of them they are running around 81% of their rated Max but the a series I found out can pump out 228 Watts out of 185 watt driver
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I'm sorry, i thought you had asked a question.
Not sure where you are getting 228 watts. Maybe draw from the wall. The max voltage for that driver is 22v and the max current is 9.3. Doesnt necessarily mean you can max out both at the same time for any length of time. 185 w is their rated max.
Really curious what you are running at 22v and 9 amps?
 
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Dachem2010

Well-Known Member
Type A's you can run them harder because you can adjust voltage and the current if you take the 9.3 and times that by 20 you get 186 I had 15 of the EB gen.2 open full pots wide open and the kilowatt said 228
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Dachem2010 said:
Type A's you can run them harder because you can adjust voltage and the current if you take the 9.3 and times that by 20 you get 186 I had 15 of the EB gen.2 open full pots wide open and the kilowatt said 228
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That makes sense. At around 80% efficiency give or take. They are rating output, not input with the 185 part.
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
A really really shitty driver may draw 300 on your kilowatt meter but only output 200 on the dc side if that makes more sense.
 
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