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What are my AC/heating options for my grow room

Discussion in 'Grow Room Design & Setup' started by Bamm Bamm, Oct 23, 2007.

    Bamm Bamm

    Bamm Bamm Well-Known Member

    Ok So I'm on my first week of flowering(just switched the lights Sunday). I vegged my plants for 4 weeks under a 430hps(10 small 15"-28" plants).. I this weekend picked up $1200 worth of equipment for $180=) so I decided to upgrade the 430HPS to 2x1000wattHPS.. I havea 6"ecoplus fan pulling air from above the reflectors(I'm planning on going to the local hydro store today to buy glass and the end pieces to plug the reflectors directly into my fan.....)
    Now when I flipped the lights I added in a 3ft tall mother plant I want to flower so it's under a 1000hps all to itself right next to the 10smaller plants..under the other 1000whps
    (grow room is upstairs bedroom approx 12'x15'
    Now presently I'm getting close to a 10degree flucuation between night day temps between 68* and 78* during the day. In order to maintain this I'm having to run the house fan/a/c in order to keep my upstairs at 69-70 to maintain the temp in the grow area...I also leave the door open with a large box fan in front blowing air in and 3 oscillating fans in the room...

    My future plans are for a 6"Intake fan(maybe change the exhaust to 8" or just have 2 6" ones)...


    1. Will the glass and hood vents be sufficient or will I need another exhaust fan???

    2. In order to maintain my temp at night what size space heater do I need?ANy recomendations??
    3. What size A/C should I get for the room.. MOunting through the wall or out my window is not a option as I do not want to draw any suspicison(sp?) on myself(no need when I have central a/c (right)=)...

    So presently this is 2x1000watts lights in the flowering area..I'mm be partioning off half with tarp this week to introduce 30 clones in to start vegging.. I'm planning on vegging them under an additional 1000whps to begin with and probably my 430w hps as well...

    ANy an all suggestions would be great....

    My goal is to be able to ALWAYS leave my door closed of course and have constant and fairly accurate control of the enviroment within the room.. I have a few temp sensors so I can hook up a A/c on one and a heater on another.. I think Im going to need to upgrade the wiring though in there I had to run one of the 1000w off the room next to it...

    winter temps around here I'd say average 40-50?northern california and summers are up to 100+

    lagwag Active Member

    I'm having the same problem with the northern california heat. It was around 97 here today and it's not gonna get better. I have 9 afghani kush vegging and my ac only starts to cool the room where i need it when the sun goes down... : ( If anyone sends you some info on that situation, hit me up.. Oh, I would recommend 6" ducting hooked to a high velocity intake fan to cool those 1000 watters.. I gotta 1000 hps and even just having a regular fart fan (bathroom vent) works wonders 95 cfm.

    capncash Well-Known Member

    1. Run your lights at night when its cooler.

    2. you dont need a heater.

    3. you dont need 2 1000w lights.

    4. above 55' and below 90' and you will be fine, no need to be obsessive about controlling temp

    lagwag Active Member

    I veg 24 hours a day so I can't just run everything at night. Picked up free new a/c unit and it kicks ass. Comfortable 78 degrees nonstop baby! woot woot! :hump:

    #1accordfamily Well-Known Member

    im having issues in my shed. heat is driving me crazy. i wish i had some cool tubes. i hope that would solve my problem. i dont have the option of cutting a hole for an ac

    dertmagert Well-Known Member

    they have portable ac units that stand alone in any room... theyre like $250 at home depot...

    yurmy Active Member

    cool tubes will drop you down temps quite a bit. personal experience, 600 watt hps in a 4x4 closet. 95*f temps. introduced a air cooled hood temps dropped to mid 80's. AC and/or heater will be rated by btu. btu is calculated per your cubic feet of the room. google for a btu calculation. as someone said and most of us practice, run your lights at night time. i personally do not suggest 6 intakes. with so many intakes you make it very easy for bugs to thrive in your room.

    #1accordfamily Well-Known Member

    make sure to have screens on your intakes and exhaust. because of running lights at night. bugs attract to light. and its just a good evestment. much like me taking spelling classes

    420inmyapt Well-Known Member

    Fuck nor cal heat man, its 108 up here today! So I had to break out the old portable A/C 8,000 BTU unit i got. I run the exhaust from the A/C straight into my hallway and leave the central AC on as well.... I am able to keep my closet as a brisk 75 :mrgreen: So what i am trying to say here is portable A/C's kick ass.... would be at 95+ w/o it.....

    MeliKush Member

    I have the same concerns as the person who originally posted this thread. I'm in the process of building a new enclosed room and I am also concerned about heat issues as well as venting co2. The new grow space will be a 10x10 with a ceiling incline from 7 1/2 ft to 6 1/2 ft. I will be running 6/600w HPS and plan to put approx 30 plants max. I have been currently looking at split ac units and guessing i'll have to run a 18,000btu - 25,000btu unit to achieve optimum temps. The area I live in gets really hot during the summers (100+ degrees) and really cold in the winters (30-40 degrees) so i have to be prepared. These units both heat and cool but run up to $2,000 each!!! I know venting is very important and although some of you may get away with that due to your climate.. I need something to compensate. Please help I have never set up a growroom so large before and am running around like a stoned chicken with this head cut off. I appreciate the feedback tho. Thanks guyz.

    smokingrubber Well-Known Member

    1. With 2000w glass in the hoods is mandatory.
    2. Unless there is frost on the plants, don't worry about raising the temps any time soon.
    3. a window ac may be nessesary, but there are other ways.

    You will need access to the attic or a crawl space. You need a source of cool fresh air, and a place to exhaust hot air. With that, you pull cool air over the lights and push it up into the attic. If the glass is sealed, you'll remove MOST of the heat. The air you're pushing into the attic will not smell because it's never in contact with the grow room's air. This requires a seperate inline fan and a timer. Run it on the same cycle as your lights.

    Cooling the actual room depends on whether or not you're running an open-loop system or a closed-loop.
    Open loop = Exhausting to outdoors with fresh air intake. (No Co2 required)
    Closed loop = Sealed environment. Grower must provide all Co2, heating and cooling.

    Which category do you fall under? If you find youself half way between the two, that's the first thing you're doing wrong.

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