Well N A, The Tankless Water Heater is the Bomb!

I ordered the same heater and pump as legally. Just got my heater in the mail yesterday. Now I just need to get a gasline up there and ill be in business.

Couple pics for the gang.. pic #1 is my cloned LF set up. pic #2 is my cloned Budley set up. Thanks bros....

LF, I lost you in the fog at, "probably 6 of one half dozen of another."....
What is the best way to get more overshoot???
Thanks again man.

Looks like you have the identical unit that I have so there are two ways to increase the rate that co2 is produced. The "winter" setting will use both sides of burners and really jack up the rate, I would keep it on summer and just crank up the "heat" or "temp" knob which just increases gas flow. The water knob adjusts the flow rate of the water through the unit which is a little moot.

Two notes on that unit. The springs in the battery compartment in mine had to be stretched a little bit to ensure good contact and with my pump, if I have the water flow set too high the unit won't switch on. Also depending on elevations, a siphon can start and the unit won't shut off but it sounds like you don't have this prob.

Congrats on the install. Nice, clean, and pro install. Always the sign of a quality grower!

That chiller is friggen perfect. Make sure to keep the coil covered with water. It can evaporate fast. Also make sure you have about an 8 ph or just city water that is already buffered to minimize interaction with the copper.

I think I'm going to expand my space so I'll likely break out the old marey 5l.

Great thread. I'm definitely going to look into this.

Ill give the springs a good looksy and make sure they have good contact.. Havent had the siphon issue yet. im wondering now how i can mitigate that potential problem. At least its on a timer so it would only run for 12 hrs......
also my unit is the LPG one so maybe its different, or something...?

Hey so is a CO2 depletion rate of 200 PPM in 5 minutes acceptable?

I wish I had the signs of a quality grower... My mover got stuck (long story) and burned some plants pretty good.. looks like they are gonna make it to the finish but still... blehh... Dont see any bananas yet so maybe i got lucky? Maybe one day I will graduate from padewan...?

Thanks

legallyflying said:

Looks like you have the identical unit that I have so there are two ways to increase the rate that co2 is produced. The "winter" setting will use both sides of burners and really jack up the rate, I would keep it on summer and just crank up the "heat" or "temp" knob which just increases gas flow. The water knob adjusts the flow rate of the water through the unit which is a little moot.

Two notes on that unit. The springs in the battery compartment in mine had to be stretched a little bit to ensure good contact and with my pump, if I have the water flow set too high the unit won't switch on. Also depending on elevations, a siphon can start and the unit won't shut off but it sounds like you don't have this prob.

Congrats on the install. Nice, clean, and pro install. Always the sign of a quality grower!

Click to expand...

Yeah Im pretty happy with this chiller too! Its been cold since set up so I have been leaving it off as to increase my water/room temps. Just barely hit 82 in room last night.. but the cold will soon be gone...Still waiting for the sheet metal hvac vent/cover..

So my next thing is a custom Icebox with like a Fleabay radiator. That should piss of Highdoefarm/China big time! Was wondering if anyone has any experience here? In my situation my chiller is right below my hood line intake, so it would be real easy to mount up a radiator right there on the wall. Now the Icebox calls for the unit to be installed at the exit of the light(s). So I am wondering if the unit will work at all if I install on the wall at the lite intake or opposite end? Because Im on movers I have to go this route.. I know my temps are a tad low now but that wont be for very long, which makes me think, if I dump the light exhaust inside temporarily how much will my temps go up? anyhow maybe Ill do a thread on this when I get some more research done..
Thanks man

budleydoright said:

That chiller is friggen perfect. Make sure to keep the coil covered with water. It can evaporate fast. Also make sure you have about an 8 ph or just city water that is already buffered to minimize interaction with the copper.

I think I'm going to expand my space so I'll likely break out the old marey 5l.

Click to expand...

PPM's typically drop pretty quick. You would know if you had a siphon because the water would continue to flow through the unit and thus just burning and burning and burning. A siphon happens when the outlet of the hose is below the water level of the tank you are drawing from. This is the case in my rezervoir for my bucket based ebb and grow. The pumo turns on and water flows into the buckets. when the pump shuts off, the weight of the water flowing through it creates a vacuum and it draws more water from the rez..and it jsut keeps drawing.

The way you prevent it is that you have to have a way to get a little air into the system. I drilled a tiny little hole in the fill tube, just before it leaves the rez (obviously higher than the highest water level) (I actually used a double barbed hose connector to pass through the wall of the rez) and just drilled a hole in it. When the pump turns on, a small stream of water comes out of the hole, no biggie. But then the pump turns off....the water "falling" through the hose draws air into that hole, and therefore, the "falling" water does not have the ability to vaccum up more water. Therefore...no siphon.

thought i'd check in too. Mine is still running strong and keeping the girls happy. for those of you with chillers or people who think they need one, well you very much might not. I have a 55g drum setting directly under the heater, the temps will climb to about 95 but quickly drop to ambient in the night cycle, even in a 18/6 veg. Yes 95 is a bit hot for a tank full of water but your already running AC so, so what

boomdawg said:

Yeah Im pretty happy with this chiller too! Its been cold since set up so I have been leaving it off as to increase my water/room temps. Just barely hit 82 in room last night.. but the cold will soon be gone...Still waiting for the sheet metal hvac vent/cover..

So my next thing is a custom Icebox with like a Fleabay radiator. That should piss of Highdoefarm/China big time! Was wondering if anyone has any experience here? In my situation my chiller is right below my hood line intake, so it would be real easy to mount up a radiator right there on the wall. Now the Icebox calls for the unit to be installed at the exit of the light(s). So I am wondering if the unit will work at all if I install on the wall at the lite intake or opposite end? Because Im on movers I have to go this route.. I know my temps are a tad low now but that wont be for very long, which makes me think, if I dump the light exhaust inside temporarily how much will my temps go up? anyhow maybe Ill do a thread on this when I get some more research done..
Thanks man

Click to expand...

I'm just going to find suitable sized heat exchanger, have a shroud made and start experimenting. I know hydroinnovations has something like this in the works.

mrduke said:

thought i'd check in too. Mine is still running strong and keeping the girls happy. for those of you with chillers or people who think they need one, well you very much might not. I have a 55g drum setting directly under the heater, the temps will climb to about 95 but quickly drop to ambient in the night cycle, even in a 18/6 veg. Yes 95 is a bit hot for a tank full of water but your already running AC so, so what

Click to expand...

i bet a small ford heater core and a decent fan on it would drop it quite a bit if you ever need it. I always thought that a passive system would work with a co2 gen though.

Cool deal Duke. Yeah I noticed no ill effects w/o chiller. Im thinking of taking nice warm 90 degree showers on the side of my house now with that water! Hope the neighbors dont see my big ass! I made a chiller for a few other things that are still in the works. Sounds like you got your set up dialed. I would only be concerned about over cycling the DH with the rez inside room if its humid where u are.

mrduke said:

thought i'd check in too. Mine is still running strong and keeping the girls happy. for those of you with chillers or people who think they need one, well you very much might not. I have a 55g drum setting directly under the heater, the temps will climb to about 95 but quickly drop to ambient in the night cycle, even in a 18/6 veg. Yes 95 is a bit hot for a tank full of water but your already running AC so, so what

Click to expand...

the res has a lid on it so humidity isn't effected hardly at all

Did you just use standard 1/2" hose and use adapters to hook up water lines to the unit?

What size is the ng hookup on that aquah unit? If I get a standard appliance hookup will it have the proper sized fitting or will I need to get adapters?

Edit: actually a garden hose is 5/8"

Pretty much all appliance hook ups are standard but there are two sizes. I believe this one is 5/8. For my hose I just bought a rubber garden hose. real rubber not that plastic shit. Then I went to the hardware isle and bought two 1/2" to 5/8 barbed thingies... Done.

Heads up my HP pump as noted above took a shit.
I noticed very limited to nil water flow so after checking everything else I topsided the pump. Noticed it was blowin air/water out of the midway point joint and that a screw was backed almost all the way out. Also the bearings were audibly shot! It sounded like rock wheels on the street on my first skateboard. Yes I am that old.
Forgot to cover the rez and noticed i was starting a lovely new algae bloom...
It may be partially my fault by subjecting it to 90 plus temps + the bloom. But its going back to HF tomorrow and I am gonna go to Lowes I think.
Just passing it on as I know some peeps are more dependant on pumps than me.
YMMV

sump pumps are not made to have any back pressure, which the regulator in the heater puts on them. your best bet is to get a inline transfer pump there a bit more money but are made to do what we want.

tell me more about this pump. Where to get, how much , GPH? I was using a utility pump from lowes on mine. Worked well, but this same pump seems to be leaking lubricant into my RO water. Inline, does this mean hose in and out. sits outside of the rez?

I just lost my post. Something about tokens... Can I bum a token? I think Dukes talking about something like Schurflos. Ac and DC and both and all over the bay. They are the cats meow of fresh water transfer. I have one. They have 2-3+ GPM ones which I think spec out?.. Works like you say. mount outside and run a piece of hose in or dripline with hose to drip adapter and suck to unit outside. Then it transfers from unit out to wherever. This actually might be ideal for out app! I went to Lowes today and got a new one because I need it now. But i may be visiting the Lowes return desk soon. Also these things are bullet proof. I have forgotten my AC one on for a day or two. dry is No problem! And by fogetting it on I mean I drained the rez and it kept running with no ill efffects.. it keeps running when on while trying to keep the min back pressure 45. Since it cant get any pressure because its an open loop system it just keeps running until it switches off..

budleydoright said:

tell me more about this pump. Where to get, how much , GPH? I was using a utility pump from lowes on mine. Worked well, but this same pump seems to be leaking lubricant into my RO water. Inline, does this mean hose in and out. sits outside of the rez?

Click to expand...

Duke,
I tried my new 1/3 HP Lowes pump tonight and it aint workin either. seems to be a pressure issue possibly like yours. So for shits and giggs I plugged in my 3.1 GLM .41 lb schurflo and it works. So I guess my set up was on the brink or something and now refuses sumpers.. I think I am going to order the flotec you got but got a question. Is it noisy like my schur? Does it constantly cycle on and off to pressurize the line like my Schur or does it stay on in a static pressurizing mode?
Thanks

This one? http://www.amazon.com/Flotec-FP0F360AC-Cyclone-Pumping-System/dp/B000FK9W18

mrduke said:

sump pumps are not made to have any back pressure, which the regulator in the heater puts on them. your best bet is to get a inline transfer pump there a bit more money but are made to do what we want.

Click to expand...