Venting room to heater/hotwater flue

BetaCris

Member
Hello all, Long time lurker here... finally hit a point i need some advice!

I am looking to vent my grow into the heater flue in my basement. The flex hose is attached to about 20ft of 6in ducting i have hidden.

The bottom is heater the top is hotwater vent. These 2 T's (5in) then feed into the angled 6in vent that goes up and out. Space is tight in that area.

As a test I have taken off the bottom cap(below the bottom T) and tried to put the flextube right on the bottom T. Unfortunately this is too powerful and blows heat out from the top hot water vent.

Why does the bottom(heater vent) not blow out the hot water like it did when i attached it to the bottom inline? The fan seems about as powerful as whats coming out my flextube. Does the T help with the backflow? Such that if I have a T attached then hook the 6in to it since the airflow hits the T is that enough to slow it down and not backflow into the water heater venting?

Someone suggested getting a Y and putting it inline with the top( hot water heater vent) ... that this would create a suction and pull the hot water heater vent air with it and eventually into the T at the end ....

Any HVAC guys that can help would be much appreciated.

vent.jpg
 

BetaCris

Member
right...
already have a co2 detector in the area.

Think I should try yo go above the 2 and try to tie into the 6in?
 

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
right...
already have a co2 detector in the area.

Think I should try yo go above the 2 and try to tie into the 6in?
Exhaust gasses from your furnace and water heater rise as they are warmer than surrounding air. Pressirizing the pipe will cause a pressure difference between room and vent pipe. Go for it if you like but you may end up tearing it all out and restoring to original configuration.
 

ASMALLVOICE

Well-Known Member
It is a bad idea all the way around, period.

Leave it alone and create one for your purpose.

The risks are not worth it by any measure.

Peace and Safe Grows

Asmallvoice
 

BetaCris

Member
Thank you for the concern but I am going to continue forward.

Just brainstorming what if I try to tap into the bend and put a short 3in tube in to direct the flow. Take my 6in flex down to a 4 and then connect the 4 to the 3in tubing.
Something like this.
sketch.jpg

Myabe a couple of self tapping screws to hold the 3in tubing against the 6in inside the vent.
This way i am above the heater and hot water venting and it should just join and continue up out of the house.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Like snapsprovolone said, your heat exhaust is a passive system, when the heat turns on the hot exhaust gasses naturally rise up the pipe without the aid of a blower. If you attach your vent line to this, blowing with a fan, your going to pressurize the exhaust causing the exhaust gasses from the heat to be blown INSIDE the house instead of out the exhaust, causing a potentially dangerous, even deadly situation. Not a good idea. It could work, although not ideal, if you ran a pipe inside the other pipe and up about 6 feet, and attach your exhaust to this pipe. The pressurized room exhaust being blown in above the heat exhaust ( and directed up to the chimney exhaust), will actually cause a low pressure are behind it , theoretically drawing the heat exhaust gasses out. Again I don't reccomend doing this, especially if you live with people yo care about( especially small children).
 

Mr.J420

Well-Known Member
Beta you are awesome, ask for advice then ignore the best advice. DON'T DO IT!
UNLESS:
Get a new high efficiency furnace and hot water tank, the tank is cheap if you rent. Furnace's can be $2000-$5000 The new units will be direct vent freeing up that stack for you to use SAFELY.
Of course at this point knocking a small hole in your wall and installing a proper dryer or bathroom vent cap is a lot cheaper.

play safe.
 

BetaCris

Member
Ok guys, Looks like I will heed to the warnings. Just super paranoid about FLIR and such. I was thinking this would be the best way to cover both smells and exhaust heat.

Mr. J420's suggestion of the dryer vent is I guess where i am going to have to go... might do some more brainstorming. Although I do like the future possibility of clearing that vent.....
 

Mr.J420

Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you have come around on the safety issue.
Don't worry about FLIR, it cannot see through walls it can only detect warm vs cold. In my area it is used only by helicopter to find large grows venting into attics, or grows in attics. A couple lights in an un-insulated attic will show up clearly on a cold night through FLIR and so people think they can see through walls. Even then in most areas FLIR cannot solely be used for a warrant.
No one will think twice about a properly installed vent, just make sure you have a decent filter before you send the air outside so there is little to no smell.
 

BetaCris

Member
Glad to hear you have come around on the safety issue.
Don't worry about FLIR, it cannot see through walls it can only detect warm vs cold. In my area it is used only by helicopter to find large grows venting into attics, or grows in attics. A couple lights in an un-insulated attic will show up clearly on a cold night through FLIR and so people think they can see through walls. Even then in most areas FLIR cannot solely be used for a warrant.
No one will think twice about a properly installed vent, just make sure you have a decent filter before you send the air outside so there is little to no smell.
I have a carbon in the tent which leads into the glass hood.... and then out the room where there is a small inline air tiger ozone running so I think i should be good on smell. More my concern is with the heat from the vent just dumping out the side of the house... we have some cold days in winter and even though the air coming out the venting is not real warm it would be warmer that what is outside.
 

shitzu

Member
^^^^^ ... or running 12 strait hours every day or even 24 hours for that matter. idk anyone who dries clothes that much.
 
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