Using Wago's for all connections?

captain crunch said:

Replacing the 600, not adding to. Glad to get that heat machine out of my space. Hoping (need to check) that two 240's in place of the 600 will be ok.

Gonna watch some more videos tonight and tomorrow to make sure I've got it all down.

something tells me I'm going to have more questions, especially about grounding everything.



My plan was to tie the two drivers together with Wago's into a junction box and then have a power cord coming out of that box To plug into my timer and power everything. For the cord I was going to use a 12 or 14 gauge extension cord with the female end cut off. You're telling me this isn't safe, so what can I use? I appreciate the help. I use a similar setup for a thermostat that controls a 1500w heater in my other hobby room, and that's why I presumed it was safe. Thank you again.

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Abiqua said:

Romex 14/12 or whatever code is, in all honesty. Its great that you are using a larger gauge Ext cord at least, shows you are thinking a bit....but it is still a temp solution.


I would run dedicated lines for that amount of wattage. Just my opinion. Even just running the wire thru conduit to keep it off the floor and into your junction box with a dedicated plug GFCI and AFCI if you can source them both..... That sucks and isn't the cheapest, but it is the safest.

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captain crunch said:

Are you say dedicated AC power line for each driver and not tie them together? Just curious, this whole led setup should pull less than 450w, so why should they be on dedicated lines. I appreciate you taking the time to explain.

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captain crunch said:

Aah.....

That moment when you mount your drivers and they're 2" too far apart to tie the AC leads together in a wago.

And the bars they're on are already riveted on.

And you have to seriously rethink your driver placement. Lol. Should have mocked up the drivers first.

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captain crunch said:

Aah.....

That moment when you mount your drivers and they're 2" too far apart to tie the AC leads together in a wago.

And the bars they're on are already riveted on.

And you have to seriously rethink your driver placement. Lol. Should have mocked up the drivers first.

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captain crunch said:

Hopefully this is my last basic question before I get everything wired up and ready to go.

Heat sinks arrived yesterday and I have my frame all built and ready to go. Package from kingbrite with the COB kit (cxb's, ideal holders, reflectors, thermal tape, etc) all arrives tomorrow and I think I'm ready to put it all together.

I've watched growmau5's videos and feel pretty confident about this whole thing.

I'm wanting to know if I can just use Wago connectors all around, connecting drivers to COB strings, and connecting wall power to the drivers. I don't have a problem soldering, it's just been a while and my only recent experience is wiring and soldering the speakers in my truck.

I also like the flexibility of being able to rewire my setup very simply (using Wago's) if I decide to upgrade drivers in the future.

Figure I can find some small junction boxes to hide the wago connections and make it all look really clean.

Is it safe to wire both drivers into the same wall plug? That way I don't have to run a power strip off my timer for two plugs. Do I simply take the hot side from both drivers, plug them into the wago, and then plug the hot from the wall cord into the third slot? Same with the negative, then wire the ground from the drivers to the aluminum frame for the whole setup? Going to tape off the dimming leads on the drivers for now until I decide what I want to do there.

Hope I'm on the right track here. I really appreciate everyone's help and advice.

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