Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)

squ1rrely

Well-Known Member
There are no doubts about the benefits of using hydrogen peroxide properly in a hydroponics system. This becomes especially true if your nutrient reservoir is kept above 72 degrees. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen, and therefore encourages the growth of more viruses, fungi, and anaerobic bacteria. Hydrogen peroxide adds oxygen to you water and cleans the water of pathanogens. Benefits include healthier root systems, increased nutrient uptake, thicker stems, and bigger leaves.
One expert claims it should be used on all soil gardens as well as in hydroponics sytems. Knowing as much as I do about beneficial fungus and micro-organisms and the benefits they provide to living plants, I am shy in taking this advice. However, when this first line of defense fails and plants become sick I often resort to using hydrogen peroxide treatments on my soil grown plants.
The chemical formula of hydrogen peroxide is H2O2. You may notice it is simply water with an extra oxygen atom. In fact, as hydrogen peroxide breaks down in a solution the result is oxygen and water. Its application helps deliver oxygen to over watered plant roots and helps to sterilize the growing media by killing harmful anaerobic (not oxygen compatible) bacteria and pathanogens that cause disease. This includes bacterial wilt, pythium fungi, fusarium fungi, and others.
I avoid using the common 3% hydrogen peroxide you normally find at drug stores. This is because such low percentage solutions are unstable, and chemicals are added to the peroxide to keep it from breaking down before it can be used. I did a little research because I did not know what chemicals were used for this, or if the plants uptake these chemicals, or if there was a health risk associated with any of these stabilizing chemicals.
Hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilized with acetanilide. Acetanilide is a synthetic compound that was first used for its fever reduction and pain killing properties in the late Nineteenth Century. For many years it was utilized as an alternative to aspirin to treat various ailments, but large-scale medical use stopped when the toxic side effects of consuming acetanilide became apparent. This was enough to make up my mind to use 35% hydrogen peroxide instead.
Firstly, 35% peroxide is caustic and should be treated with the same caution as a strong acid. 35% strength hydrogen peroxide should be readily available at any quality hydroponics supply shop. The stronger concentrations do not use the added stabilizers.
The recommended dosage is to add 2-3 ml to each gallon of water, however, I use 5 ml per gallon and have never had any problems. At every nutrient change treat your fresh water with hydrogen peroxide. The general idea is to let the hydroponics sytem circulate the hydrogen peroxide solution for about a half hour to let the peroxide work against pathogens and to let the solution stabilize before adding your nutrients.
The beneficial effects of using hydrogen peroxide last about 4 days. There are some gardeners who add a little peroxide to their nutrient reservoirs every 5 days in between nutrient changes. If you decide to do this, stick to the guidelines and always make sure your solution is thoroughly mixed before exposing your plants roots to it. Another option is to top off your nutrient reservoir with peroxide treated water whenever it is low.
 

wilsoncr17

Well-Known Member
When using Dutch Master Gold, the label says not to use H2O2. Is it because they want to sell you their root products?
Is Dutch Masters organic? If so, it should be noted that if you are using organic nutrients, H2O2 will kill them off. Kind of like when you poor it on a cut, H2O2 will eat away and destroy anything dead, or fungus related, so organic nutes are a no go.

squ1rrely, I noticed you said mix the H2O2 before the nutrients. I however have to wait about a day before mixing H2O2 as the nutes alone lower my pH to 5.8, if I were to add anything else, it would be too acidic.

H2O2 is great shit though. If you ever have root problems in a DWC, H2O2 is like the miracle cure. bongsmilie
 

squ1rrely

Well-Known Member
i went to my local growshop today and he told me you cannot buy the 25 or 35% H2O2 anymore. the EPA halted all production and sales. so the only stuff you can buy is the wal mart 3% shit which you SHOULD NOT use. so you'll just have to pay for the grow specific root conditioner shit. i went with DutchMaster Zone. i use all other DutchMaster products so we'll see how it goes.
 

iloveit

Well-Known Member
There are no doubts about the benefits of using hydrogen peroxide properly in a hydroponics system. This becomes especially true if your nutrient reservoir is kept above 72 degrees. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen, and therefore encourages the growth of more viruses, fungi, and anaerobic bacteria. Hydrogen peroxide adds oxygen to you water and cleans the water of pathanogens. Benefits include healthier root systems, increased nutrient uptake, thicker stems, and bigger leaves.
One expert claims it should be used on all soil gardens as well as in hydroponics sytems. Knowing as much as I do about beneficial fungus and micro-organisms and the benefits they provide to living plants, I am shy in taking this advice. However, when this first line of defense fails and plants become sick I often resort to using hydrogen peroxide treatments on my soil grown plants.
The chemical formula of hydrogen peroxide is H2O2. You may notice it is simply water with an extra oxygen atom. In fact, as hydrogen peroxide breaks down in a solution the result is oxygen and water. Its application helps deliver oxygen to over watered plant roots and helps to sterilize the growing media by killing harmful anaerobic (not oxygen compatible) bacteria and pathanogens that cause disease. This includes bacterial wilt, pythium fungi, fusarium fungi, and others.
I avoid using the common 3% hydrogen peroxide you normally find at drug stores. This is because such low percentage solutions are unstable, and chemicals are added to the peroxide to keep it from breaking down before it can be used. I did a little research because I did not know what chemicals were used for this, or if the plants uptake these chemicals, or if there was a health risk associated with any of these stabilizing chemicals.
Hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilized with acetanilide. Acetanilide is a synthetic compound that was first used for its fever reduction and pain killing properties in the late Nineteenth Century. For many years it was utilized as an alternative to aspirin to treat various ailments, but large-scale medical use stopped when the toxic side effects of consuming acetanilide became apparent. This was enough to make up my mind to use 35% hydrogen peroxide instead.
Firstly, 35% peroxide is caustic and should be treated with the same caution as a strong acid. 35% strength hydrogen peroxide should be readily available at any quality hydroponics supply shop. The stronger concentrations do not use the added stabilizers.
The recommended dosage is to add 2-3 ml to each gallon of water, however, I use 5 ml per gallon and have never had any problems. At every nutrient change treat your fresh water with hydrogen peroxide. The general idea is to let the hydroponics sytem circulate the hydrogen peroxide solution for about a half hour to let the peroxide work against pathogens and to let the solution stabilize before adding your nutrients.
The beneficial effects of using hydrogen peroxide last about 4 days. There are some gardeners who add a little peroxide to their nutrient reservoirs every 5 days in between nutrient changes. If you decide to do this, stick to the guidelines and always make sure your solution is thoroughly mixed before exposing your plants roots to it. Another option is to top off your nutrient reservoir with peroxide treated water whenever it is low.
Here in the U.K. I can only find H2O2 at 17.5% concentration, what dosage per litre should I use? And is it ok to use H2O2 (at the same dosage) for the last 2 weeks of before harvest?
 

Demosthenese

Well-Known Member
yes it is. In terms of what ends up inside the plant, the h202 molecules don't make it in there. They degrade into water.
 

squ1rrely

Well-Known Member
yes it is. In terms of what ends up inside the plant, the h202 molecules don't make it in there. They degrade into water.
absolutely right. H2O2 is a VERY unstable compound and will lose an oxygen molecule very easily and :poof: H2O... water:eyesmoke:
Thats why you cant use the store bought kind thats 3% because it has stabilizers in it to make it a stronger compound.
 

iloveit

Well-Known Member
Please somebody answers this question previously asked:

Is it ok to use H2O2 for the last 2 weeks before harvest?
 

ilovekasey17

Well-Known Member
absolutely right. H2O2 is a VERY unstable compound and will lose an oxygen molecule very easily and :poof: H2O... water:eyesmoke:
Thats why you cant use the store bought kind thats 3% because it has stabilizers in it to make it a stronger compound.
I've heard that using the 3%, shaking it vigorously in the water, and letting it sit for 10-20 minutes works as well. Do you think this works?
 

Demosthenese

Well-Known Member
ive used the 3% stuff. It does work, the problem is you need to replace it almost every day, and you need a lot of it in small rez's. It's terrbily uneconomical. Now that i know what the 35% stuff costs id never ever buy the 3% shit again, because it's just not worth it. Go to your local hydro store and get 35%.
 

KTOWNGUY

Well-Known Member
ive used the 3% stuff. It does work, the problem is you need to replace it almost every day, and you need a lot of it in small rez's. It's terrbily uneconomical. Now that i know what the 35% stuff costs id never ever buy the 3% shit again, because it's just not worth it. Go to your local hydro store and get 35%.

I use the 35% stuff in my system. 3 ml per galon and then during my week when i top off my res i Use it agian but 25% less each galon every tinme. This works great for me and this is also how my hydro shop instructed me to use it.
 

disposition84

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information. I was always under the impression that the 3% was just a lesser concentrate of the 35% and that you'd simply need more of it. I've used the 3% in the past without any problems and I do think it seems to work, but after reading this I'm still going to try to hunt down some 35%.

Thanks
 

ilovekasey17

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information. I was always under the impression that the 3% was just a lesser concentrate of the 35% and that you'd simply need more of it. I've used the 3% in the past without any problems and I do think it seems to work, but after reading this I'm still going to try to hunt down some 35%.

Thanks
Nah. Check the ACTIVE INGREDIENT label on the bock. The active ingredient should say something like "Hydrogen peroxide (Stabilized)"
 
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