Unhappy looking plant please advise

FatBoyVik

FatBoyVik

Active Member
Hello,

The plan in the picture does not look happy and it's symptoms seem to be a curling down of leaves and a pale yellow color instead of deep green.

I have been watering around every 3rd day and given around 2 liters of organic fish and seaweed with some enzymes. The water has been either mineral water or filtered tap water and phd to around 6.3 or 6.5.

The lights are on 24 hours and the lux is 52,000 at the moment. Heat is around 22C.

The pot size is 11 liters and it's organic eco thrive soil. Could be too small?

I'm needing to put these babies into flower soon but I don't want them to flower stressed as I'm worried they will hermie.

What can I do to get them happy and green?

I'm not sure if it's a deficiency as it's big for it's pot and needs calmag as it's only got fish and seaweed. Or is it too much feed ect?

Very confusing stuff but if anybody can give some input it would be appreciated.
 

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Stoneyisland

Member
If it’s too much feed you’ll have burnt leaf tips, check the new growth for nute burn. Looks thirsty and hungry to me. Try watering every other day, could be going too dry in between watering?
 
T

TheWholeTruth

Well-Known Member
FatBoyVik said:
Hello,

The plan in the picture does not look happy and it's symptoms seem to be a curling down of leaves and a pale yellow color instead of deep green.

I have been watering around every 3rd day and given around 2 liters of organic fish and seaweed with some enzymes. The water has been either mineral water or filtered tap water and phd to around 6.3 or 6.5.

The lights are on 24 hours and the lux is 52,000 at the moment. Heat is around 22C.

The pot size is 11 liters and it's organic eco thrive soil. Could be too small?

I'm needing to put these babies into flower soon but I don't want them to flower stressed as I'm worried they will hermie.

What can I do to get them happy and green?

I'm not sure if it's a deficiency as it's big for it's pot and needs calmag as it's only got fish and seaweed. Or is it too much feed ect?

Very confusing stuff but if anybody can give some input it would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
What light are you using and haw far do you have it hung up. The shorter plant seems healthier. Are you growing in pure soil. Me personally with organic feeds I dont recommend ph-ing what you put in. There is a bacterial and micro-life zone within the root area in good quality live soil, all those microorganisms bring everything within the range the plant can use. Making it too acidic or too alkaline harms that balance. Another thing with those bags you need some airflow underneath otherwise it can caus root issues and problems. When you water if its soil is the top 1inch drying before you water again.
 
FatBoyVik

FatBoyVik

Active Member
panda13 said:
why are the lights are on 24 hours ?
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To have better control of the heat at the moment as my heater costs more than my lights to run some how. I can switch to 18 but temps will vary as the heater also has no set temp. You think that's the cause?
 
panda13

panda13

Member
FatBoyVik said:
To have better control of the heat at the moment as my heater costs more than my lights to run some how. I can switch to 18 but temps will vary as the heater also has no set temp. You think that's the cause?
Click to expand...
more just wondering. The plant to me looks like its underwatered.
 
FatBoyVik

FatBoyVik

Active Member
TheWholeTruth said:
What light are you using and haw far do you have it hung up. The shorter plant seems healthier. Are you growing in pure soil. Me personally with organic feeds I dont recommend ph-ing what you put in. There is a bacterial and micro-life zone within the root area in good quality live soil, all those microorganisms bring everything within the range the plant can use. Making it too acidic or too alkaline harms that balance. Another thing with those bags you need some airflow underneath otherwise it can caus root issues and problems. When you water if its soil is the top 1inch drying before you water again.
Click to expand...
The light is a maxibright 660 Pro and its 25 Inchs from the very top. It's set on 75% power at the moment.

I am growing in pure soil for that one and just phd just to be safe with natural biobizz ph down.

The smaller plans are a different strain if that helps and a very healthy looking one at that given the root zone when transplanting. I'm not sure what to put under it to add airflow but I'll look into that.
 
panda13

panda13

Member
FatBoyVik said:
I'll up the watering for now and do every other day and give maybe 2.5-3 liters tomorrow and see what happens. I'll report back with how it develops
Click to expand...
sounds like a plan
also as mentioned up there a pot riser or something would be good to lift em up a little of the floor
 
green_machine_two9er

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
FatBoyVik said:
The light is a maxibright 660 Pro and its 25 Inchs from the very top. It's set on 75% power at the moment.

I am growing in pure soil for that one and just phd just to be safe with natural biobizz ph down.

The smaller plans are a different strain if that helps and a very healthy looking one at that given the root zone when transplanting. I'm not sure what to put under it to add airflow but I'll look into that.
Click to expand...
It’s definitely stalled due to bad watering practices. Those plants are in drought survival mode. They should be getting average 5-10% volume of container in water each day. So 11 liter pot would be .6-1.1 litters a day. Everyday. Don’t stall the nature train with fear of water. Water is life and you need a lot more. Probably going to need trays underneith to catch runoff when you start watering more.
 
FatBoyVik

FatBoyVik

Active Member
green_machine_two9er said:
I would add some dry nutrient top dress. Then a 1/2 inch layer of high quality earth worm castings. Then work at maintaining the “Goldilocks” zone. It’s hard and takes practice.
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Happy you said about the EWC as that's my next stop when I get paid. Do you think just a top dress is fine or by the size do you think they will need to be repotted before flower?
 
Fallguy111

Fallguy111

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
I would add some dry nutrient top dress. Then a 1/2 inch layer of high quality earth worm castings. Then work at maintaining the “Goldilocks” zone. It’s hard and takes practice.
Click to expand...
At some point you’re going to have to figure out how to run without lights for flower( if photo). Historically my best runs are in winter where it’s normal to ge a 15f swing(mid-low80’s to mid-high 60’s) but I do keep my humidity in check especially during flower (check vpd chart). Some ideas are run your intake to your mechanical room for both heat and free co2. And vent to a different dry room so you’re not reintroducing humid air. Fan on floor of tent right in front of intake to pull dryer air in. Wrap fabric pots with plastic. Defoliate more.
 
T

TheWholeTruth

Well-Known Member
FatBoyVik said:
The light is a maxibright 660 Pro and its 25 Inchs from the very top. It's set on 75% power at the moment.

I am growing in pure soil for that one and just phd just to be safe with natural biobizz ph down.

The smaller plans are a different strain if that helps and a very healthy looking one at that given the root zone when transplanting. I'm not sure what to put under it to add airflow but I'll look into that.
Click to expand...
Just put three house bricks or blocks of wood wraped plastic or something in the mean time underneath strategically placed so you get airflow till you work something else out.
With watering is the soil actually drying ontop abit before watering. It dont seem to me like they are going yellow from plain underwatering. I dont see any of your leaves drying or the edges curling from suffering from the pot drying out too much. Your in soil, it dont make sense to just dump water in for the sake of watering. Your plants and the pot should tell you wen you need to water. In soil you should be waiting till the top inch or so is drying and the pot is getting lighter before watering. Its probably best you get a complete feed and your probably going to need cal-mag. Looks like you might just need to feed them with a stronger nutrient dose. Under led lighting the plants can go through quite abit of feed. If your stuck for funds temporarily just get some decent tomato fertilizer with high levels of cal mag in and use that for awhile till you can get good complete feed. Your plants are still looking good just light coloured. Check the bottom of your pot to see if any roots that are poking through the bag and that they are white and not any rot or slime under the pot. I would stop adding any ph up or down in for abit. Get a complete nutrient and build it up starting low and the next feed abit stronger and next stronger till you get to the point they look healthy and green and are growing fast. Temporarily to get them greening faster you can just mix up some feed and 15 mins before lights off spray your leaves top and bottom. If you stay under 24hour on, spray them and dim your light right down for an hour or two so that you dont get any strong lights through the droplets causing burn spots. Building your feed back up slowly will also give you the chance to see if the nutrients are already in the soil and locked up due to getting too acidic or alkaline in the root zone. Going with out the ph feed will give it a chance to balance out again. Just work with the plant. But from the pictures and your info we can see the smaller plants are fine and green, its those that are bigger yellowing so thats a good indication that even though they might be a different strain when they are getting bigger there isnt sufficient food in the root sone to keep them green. No reason why you not watering them more would make the stockier shorter ones greener and the bigger ones yellower, its most likely they are wanting more feed when bigger.
Just my advice, no offence ment to anyone elses opinion or advice given. I myself could be completely off with my judgment as im not there with the plants.
 
green_machine_two9er

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
TheWholeTruth said:
Just put three house bricks or blocks of wood wraped plastic or something in the mean time underneath strategically placed so you get airflow till you work something else out.
With watering is the soil actually drying ontop abit before watering. It dont seem to me like they are going yellow from plain underwatering. I dont see any of your leaves drying or the edges curling from suffering from the pot drying out too much. Your in soil, it dont make sense to just dump water in for the sake of watering. Your plants and the pot should tell you wen you need to water. In soil you should be waiting till the top inch or so is drying and the pot is getting lighter before watering. Its probably best you get a complete feed and your probably going to need cal-mag. Looks like you might just need to feed them with a stronger nutrient dose. Under led lighting the plants can go through quite abit of feed. If your stuck for funds temporarily just get some decent tomato fertilizer with high levels of cal mag in and use that for awhile till you can get good complete feed. Your plants are still looking good just light coloured. Check the bottom of your pot to see if any roots that are poking through the bag and that they are white and not any rot or slime under the pot. I would stop adding any ph up or down in for abit. Get a complete nutrient and build it up starting low and the next feed abit stronger and next stronger till you get to the point they look healthy and green and are growing fast. Temporarily to get them greening faster you can just mix up some feed and 15 mins before lights off spray your leaves top and bottom. If you stay under 24hour on, spray them and dim your light right down for an hour or two so that you dont get any strong lights through the droplets causing burn spots. Building your feed back up slowly will also give you the chance to see if the nutrients are already in the soil and locked up due to getting too acidic or alkaline in the root zone. Going with out the ph feed will give it a chance to balance out again. Just work with the plant. But from the pictures and your info we can see the smaller plants are fine and green, its those that are bigger yellowing so thats a good indication that even though they might be a different strain when they are getting bigger there isnt sufficient food in the root sone to keep them green. No reason why you not watering them more would make the stockier shorter ones greener and the bigger ones yellower, its most likely they are wanting more feed when bigger.
Just my advice, no offence ment to anyone elses opinion or advice given. I myself could be completely off with my judgment as im not there with the plants.
Click to expand...
That’s why we are here. To opening and respectfully figure this hsut out. While I agree that the plants are hungry, I think it’s due to the soil stalling out of feeding the plants/ maybe rootbound. But the number one way to stall soil and the microbes responsible for making nutrition plant available, is lack of moisture in the medium. Yes another way to remedy would be treat the medium like an inert medium and start a nutrient program.

My suggestion to increase water stems from seeing ALOT of soil grows going the same route. People scared to water, waiting for dry out, or too few inches to dry. That’s completely bad advice for a soil grow. The top inches of soil
Should never dry out. As soon as it does microbes go dormant and stall the engine.
 
MissinThe90’sStrains

MissinThe90’sStrains

Well-Known Member
I’m not an expert with actual “light numbers“, but I’ve done some reading recently after buying a cheap light meter and experimenting. 50,000 lux is at the upper end of what’s generally recommended for veg growth. You also said that you’re running the lights at 24 hours straight. I’d consider calculating your DLI and seeing if maybe your plants are getting too much light overall. That can stress them and make them look wilty and sad.

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DirtyJerzey

DirtyJerzey

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
That’s why we are here. To opening and respectfully figure this hsut out. While I agree that the plants are hungry, I think it’s due to the soil stalling out of feeding the plants/ maybe rootbound. But the number one way to stall soil and the microbes responsible for making nutrition plant available, is lack of moisture in the medium. Yes another way to remedy would be treat the medium like an inert medium and start a nutrient program.

My suggestion to increase water stems from seeing ALOT of soil grows going the same route. People scared to water, waiting for dry out, or too few inches to dry. That’s completely bad advice for a soil grow. The top inches of soil
Should never dry out. As soon as it does microbes go dormant and stall the engine.
Click to expand...
In my soil grows Ive setup a cheap temu auto watering system. Throughout the grow I increase the amount of water. I typically will have it water twice a day, about 30 seconds of "spray" and when in flower that ends up being around 60 seconds. Im using vivosun 20 gal soft pots with a riser above a reservoir, my goal is no water in the tray. Ive never once had a over or under watered situation. Im historically a hydroguy so watering is more of an over-confidence. Lol.
 
FatBoyVik

FatBoyVik

Active Member
TheWholeTruth said:
Just put three house bricks or blocks of wood wraped plastic or something in the mean time underneath strategically placed so you get airflow till you work something else out.
With watering is the soil actually drying ontop abit before watering. It dont seem to me like they are going yellow from plain underwatering. I dont see any of your leaves drying or the edges curling from suffering from the pot drying out too much. Your in soil, it dont make sense to just dump water in for the sake of watering. Your plants and the pot should tell you wen you need to water. In soil you should be waiting till the top inch or so is drying and the pot is getting lighter before watering. Its probably best you get a complete feed and your probably going to need cal-mag. Looks like you might just need to feed them with a stronger nutrient dose. Under led lighting the plants can go through quite abit of feed. If your stuck for funds temporarily just get some decent tomato fertilizer with high levels of cal mag in and use that for awhile till you can get good complete feed. Your plants are still looking good just light coloured. Check the bottom of your pot to see if any roots that are poking through the bag and that they are white and not any rot or slime under the pot. I would stop adding any ph up or down in for abit. Get a complete nutrient and build it up starting low and the next feed abit stronger and next stronger till you get to the point they look healthy and green and are growing fast. Temporarily to get them greening faster you can just mix up some feed and 15 mins before lights off spray your leaves top and bottom. If you stay under 24hour on, spray them and dim your light right down for an hour or two so that you dont get any strong lights through the droplets causing burn spots. Building your feed back up slowly will also give you the chance to see if the nutrients are already in the soil and locked up due to getting too acidic or alkaline in the root zone. Going with out the ph feed will give it a chance to balance out again. Just work with the plant. But from the pictures and your info we can see the smaller plants are fine and green, its those that are bigger yellowing so thats a good indication that even though they might be a different strain when they are getting bigger there isnt sufficient food in the root sone to keep them green. No reason why you not watering them more would make the stockier shorter ones greener and the bigger ones yellower, its most likely they are wanting more feed when bigger.
Just my advice, no offence ment to anyone elses opinion or advice given. I myself could be completely off with my judgment as im not there with the plants.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed response!

I have watered again now with added calmag and given 2 liters of water. They were pretty light but got about 1.6 liters of water 2 days ago. Feed was fishmix and seaweed with some enzymes. I am giving a strong dose of each.

After seeing your advice I will give a plane water in the next couple days.

Also just to clarify the other smaller plants are about a month younger (apologies for not being clear)

Fall guy was nice enough to give a link so I've placed an order for something to keep them off the ground which is available in my area.

I'm waiting until the top inch is dry but are there more accurate ways to measure like a meter or something?
 
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