Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
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Kite High
Well-Known Member
I already stated that with soil the chlorine chloramide thing is a non concern
I do not subscribe to feel good exception being smoking the herb
hopeyougotadutch
Well-Known Member
Wish I could smoke, damn drug tests. 
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Sorry, misunderstood. Another senior moment, hah!
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Theoretically it sterilized the mix, all depends on the amount. Surprised it had any effect on the gnats. I would have thought they'd love the released O2.
hopeyougotadutch
Well-Known Member
It wasn't too much (tbsp to a gal.), but I figured it would have done that. I was surprised as well, and I could still be wrong, it was a pretty bad case of them. After applying it though, they seemed to disappear. Like I said, it was a BAD case of em', I saw someone post it worked well for them, so I said what the hell.
I'll see if I can find something more about it, other than a random post.
hopeyougotadutch
Well-Known Member
So I quick read through a few articles, and really, they all say the same thing about the effect of peroxide on fungus gnats. The adults live for about a week and don't generally cause any harm to the plant, but the larvae can cause some problem for the roots. I'll just post a link to one of the articles, but like I said, they all really say the same thing. Couldn't find any scientific studies but....
"Allow the soil to dry out for a few days, so that the top 2 inches (5 centimeters) are really dry. The larvae of fungus gnats cannot survive in dry soil. However, they will remain dormant and begin their development once the soil is moist again. Water your plant with a mixture of one part hydrogen peroxide and four parts water. The solution will kill the larvae, but is harmless to your plant. Reapply the hydrogen peroxide solution once a week until you see that the fungus gnats are gone." Found at: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-kill-fungus-gnats.htm
It mentions using the yellow sticky traps to catch the adults (of course), and it recommends using other things for the soil drench before the choice of peroxide.
"Allow the soil to dry out for a few days, so that the top 2 inches (5 centimeters) are really dry. The larvae of fungus gnats cannot survive in dry soil. However, they will remain dormant and begin their development once the soil is moist again. Water your plant with a mixture of one part hydrogen peroxide and four parts water. The solution will kill the larvae, but is harmless to your plant. Reapply the hydrogen peroxide solution once a week until you see that the fungus gnats are gone." Found at: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-kill-fungus-gnats.htm
It mentions using the yellow sticky traps to catch the adults (of course), and it recommends using other things for the soil drench before the choice of peroxide.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Wonder who the author is and if he really has any credentials. Citrus aka orange works, so does a drench of malathion. Not sure about the BT.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
No. Buy orange oil at a nursery.
Kite High
Well-Known Member
I got rid of fg with Ivory soap in my water...never had them again so add a drop per gallon always..also helps keep dryspots away
hopeyougotadutch
Well-Known Member
That's good to know, what do you mean by dry spots? In the soil?
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
I got tired of fighting gnats in soilless and just decided to drench my mothers with imid (merit, malathion) every 3 months.
When I transplant veg plants (1qt pots) into flower (5 gal) pots I break up half of a mosquito dunk and mix it in. Since I started this I have not had problems with gnats. Gnats can be a bitch in coco and peat. People say it is due to over watering, but I don't know. They seem to come around regardless of how I water.
If they do show up I sprinkle DE on the coco surface. I'm not sure if it really makes a difference or not.
When I transplant veg plants (1qt pots) into flower (5 gal) pots I break up half of a mosquito dunk and mix it in. Since I started this I have not had problems with gnats. Gnats can be a bitch in coco and peat. People say it is due to over watering, but I don't know. They seem to come around regardless of how I water.
If they do show up I sprinkle DE on the coco surface. I'm not sure if it really makes a difference or not.
Cooter@666
Well-Known Member
I thought I'd share this link here, the study has some interesting info pertaining to "Integrated use of chemical, organic and biofertilizers" I hope this link hasn't been posted in the previous 143 pages, if it was please forgive my lack of observation
.
http://www.agnet.org/htmlarea_file/library/20110808103954/tb174.pdf
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.http://www.agnet.org/htmlarea_file/library/20110808103954/tb174.pdf
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Cooter@666
Well-Known Member
I've been an avid organic garden over the last few years, I recently switched up my garden to incorporate granular organic based fertilizers, some integrated with salts, some purely organic. The fertilizers that have salts integrated to them have performed the best, which set off the light in the ole dome of mine.
Being naive in the beginning I bought into the marketing schemes of canna specific fertilizers, well after burning the fuck out of out of my plants I switched to all organic amended soils and found out quickly that the plants would start to starve mid to late flower. Don't get me wrong I pulled off some nice grows using only organic amendments, looking back now I’m sure the plans didn't grow to their full potential, I was happy with the final product, but I bet the final product would have been that much better by maintaining proper plant health.
A few months back I discovered Fox Fax Marine Cruise (10-7-7) and it works pretty good, during the vegetative stage the plants thrive and the roots are monstrous compared to the plants that were veg’d with organically amended soil.
I've noticed that once the plants quit stretching they almost immediately run out of (N), I would try to green them back up with high (N) guano teas and what not but the plants never seemed to recover from the (N) deficiency, after reading the first few pages of this thread I quickly realized I should have been using salts to correct the deficiency all along.
Being naive in the beginning I bought into the marketing schemes of canna specific fertilizers, well after burning the fuck out of out of my plants I switched to all organic amended soils and found out quickly that the plants would start to starve mid to late flower. Don't get me wrong I pulled off some nice grows using only organic amendments, looking back now I’m sure the plans didn't grow to their full potential, I was happy with the final product, but I bet the final product would have been that much better by maintaining proper plant health.
A few months back I discovered Fox Fax Marine Cruise (10-7-7) and it works pretty good, during the vegetative stage the plants thrive and the roots are monstrous compared to the plants that were veg’d with organically amended soil.
I've noticed that once the plants quit stretching they almost immediately run out of (N), I would try to green them back up with high (N) guano teas and what not but the plants never seemed to recover from the (N) deficiency, after reading the first few pages of this thread I quickly realized I should have been using salts to correct the deficiency all along.
uncle.duke
Member
Hey Ub and company.... still in flowering stages at the moment and trying to be patient and keeping em greenn, its a mini jungle in there with all the foliage.. anyways my a.d.d is kicking in and I am trying to find things to do.. sooo I was curious if you reuse soil.. and if so where do i begin?
hopeyougotadutch
Well-Known Member
I'd like to know more about that as well.
Bake it? Really? Specifics?
Bake it? Really? Specifics?