Turning yellow/brown with LED UFO

I agree it's a ph problem with either the water or the soil (too low probably, and probably the soil's ph). It's a fine line. Potential hydrogen problems are ( IMO ) the biggest things that newer growers encounter. There are absorption charts.


On soil if you go under 6 and above 7 you'll have problems. Also in soil the ph can go up or down depending on soil type after a couple days of feeding. Check the soil Ph or run off. If "hot" flush it with distilled water or ph'd water at around 6.5. I would probably bring the distilled down from a 7 to 6.5 to make sure that the water ph is at a level that you can still optimally absorb any nutrients out of the soil. I would say next run use a soil like Foxfarm Happy Frog as a plant can go in this for quite a while without added nutrients. Invest in a really good ph tester that can be recallibrated. Water at 6.5. And break any feeding cycle/ nutrient feedings down into smaller doses. Meaning don't mix cal-mag, main nutrient, silica, humic, fulvic, etc all together at once. I do cal-mag everytime at a small dose and then add my main nutrient, that's it. If I need more silica I might add it to the next watering with just water and cal-mag. Small doses of a nutrient here and feeding there. Never a Cocktail of multiple nutrients. Stuff can start locking out nutrients right when you mix them. I believe that GH brand of flora whatevers says not to mix B before A or something to that effect. Same thing. You don't want to lock out everything in the nutrient mix. Not all nutrients are made to go together. I find that cocktailing jacks a plant up. Besides if you use a really good soil with a good nutrient profile you shouldn't have to add nutrients. Marijuana grows in some of the craziest places under some crazy conditions. In nature you never see a bottle of nutes next to a landrace patch.
 
I was recently hit with a ph problem similar to this. I ph'd my water everything was going fine. Got comfortable, and stopped ph'ing my water. Eperienced a problem similar to yours. Thought hey I'll give them a good ol' flushing. I just hooked up the hose and went to it....turns out within a week or so my towns water had jumped from around 6.8-7 to around 8.2. I gave them a heavy flush with water that was way off ph. Once that happened and I narrowed it down to the incoming water I was able to make the adjustments, but not before I freaked out. Crop is doing fine now. Also here's a tip for free. Get a medium that you can water every 2-3 days or even more often depending on plant size. Like 50/50 coco coir and expanded clay. Make sure that plants fully take up entire pot before upgrading pots, This is very important. When you have a tiny plant in a big pot that has been saturated, the plant cannot drink the water fast enough and sets in a soggy medium for days and days. This leads to true over watering, ie root rot, stunted growth and so on. Marijuana loves aeration to the roots. It loves to dry out rather rapidly and to be drenched again. Aero and Hydroponics revolve around this method. With young clones they like a medium that dries out very quickly like rock wool and peat because of this. With this coco method it allows you to grow like hydro but water like soil. You have to add the nutrients so you know exactly what is is the plant. With shorter time between drying out you can dial in what nutrients need to go up or down wtihout having your soil fully drenched waiting 3-5+ days before you can do anything about it. Always push the boundaries of your grow technique. Mix it up. Never get comfortable. It's a science experiment. If soil is sucking for you change the soil, or do away with it all together. Find a growing style that compliments your growing style. Same with any other aspect. Kung Fu broshi. If you think it's the light change it out. Hassle free as much as possible.
 

DurbanP

Well-Known Member
I agree it's a ph problem with either the water or the soil (too low probably, and probably the soil's ph). It's a fine line. Potential hydrogen problems are ( IMO ) the biggest things that newer growers encounter. There are absorption charts.


On soil if you go under 6 and above 7 you'll have problems. Also in soil the ph can go up or down depending on soil type after a couple days of feeding. Check the soil Ph or run off. If "hot" flush it with distilled water or ph'd water at around 6.5. I would probably bring the distilled down from a 7 to 6.5 to make sure that the water ph is at a level that you can still optimally absorb any nutrients out of the soil. I would say next run use a soil like Foxfarm Happy Frog as a plant can go in this for quite a while without added nutrients. Invest in a really good ph tester that can be recallibrated. Water at 6.5. And break any feeding cycle/ nutrient feedings down into smaller doses. Meaning don't mix cal-mag, main nutrient, silica, humic, fulvic, etc all together at once. I do cal-mag everytime at a small dose and then add my main nutrient, that's it. If I need more silica I might add it to the next watering with just water and cal-mag. Small doses of a nutrient here and feeding there. Never a Cocktail of multiple nutrients. Stuff can start locking out nutrients right when you mix them. I believe that GH brand of flora whatevers says not to mix B before A or something to that effect. Same thing. You don't want to lock out everything in the nutrient mix. Not all nutrients are made to go together. I find that cocktailing jacks a plant up. Besides if you use a really good soil with a good nutrient profile you shouldn't have to add nutrients. Marijuana grows in some of the craziest places under some crazy conditions. In nature you never see a bottle of nutes next to a landrace patch.
Awesome man. I've never seen a chart like that or even thought to look for one. It is a great way to see it laid out visually like that.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Not all leds are the same

In fact, most ufos cost money in the long run as they will never do for you what the adv BS says they will

Amare Technologies is a mj grower who got tired of getting ripped off by led companies and now has his own panels, some of which I am testing

No comparison, but you pay more for quality

click on my sig to see them in action
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I bought a very similar spectrum ufo 4 years ago.

I paid $360

It never did a damn thing, even when I tried it for side lighting


But I felt led was the future, and soon learned the future is mostly white diodes
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I have a Blackstar 135w (85w actual) UFO. I've been very happy with it. It grows very well. But, it is a Chinese light. Just rebranded and sold for more than buying direct from China. We paid for the name and on-shore support, the relationship between Lighthouse and Gotham Hydro (reported to be the same people).

Paying the premium may be worth it. Gotham is great to deal with. But, ultimately, our lights are essentially the same as direct imports. Not as efficient as slightly more expensive lights. Not as well built. (For example, the cooling fins are small.).

I'm not too negative about Chinese lights when they're purchased directly from China at a discount. You get what you pay for, and at those discounted prices some of them aren't too bad. But, the rebranded imports don't seem like a great deal. With the premium paid for them, the higher-quality lights become competitive.

If I needed to buy a UFO, I'd either get a TopLED or Vipar (eBay) for about $100. Or, I'd invest in some Cree (screw-in incandescent replacement) A19 bulbs and the parts to hang them.(<<link) For a larger light (for taller plants) I've gone with A51. Compared to my Blackstar v2 180w, wow. The difference is significant.(<< link to photos)
 
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tokingtiger

Well-Known Member
your lights are real high for what you got. are those 100w or 26w cfl that lights like a 100? those ufo's are 90 but draw about 50 actual watts, you could be running 100 actual watts and your lights look 3 feet high? not sure about any nute problem? they seem just watered? I use tap water, let it set out for 2 days to clear some chlorine, I get ph 7 from tap so im happy, use firefox, as per instructions Minus a little. hope this info helps in some way.
 

Dah

New Member
I bought those LED in june and its over for me. I juste sold them. Now i'm looking for a 400w hps and a new pen. Anyone have a idea for a good light in a small place (1.7 feet per 2.4) its in a closet and I'm looking for one not to hot. Thanks
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I bought those LED in june and its over for me. I juste sold them. Now i'm looking for a 400w hps and a new pen. Anyone have a idea for a good light in a small place (1.7 feet per 2.4) its in a closet and I'm looking for one not to hot.
I wouldn't give up on LED. I'm pretty sure your problem was with something else. I hope it goes better under HID, but if it does I'll suspect it's that something changed in your soil, nutes or care. Unless the spectrum of those LED was really bad, I can't see LED being the problem.

The only reason I mention it is because of your space and heat requirements. LED should be the best choice. A good LED like an Area51 RW-75, a Hans panel. Or, those new Cree A19 (incandescent replacements) sold at Home Depot. Enough 9.5w bulbs to give you 25w/sq ft. About 8 or 10? I wrote up something about the various ways to mount and adjust. (<<link)
 

Dah

New Member
Don't know if it was the LED but I changed back for a 400w and everything going fine. I'll buy a bluelab pen tomorrow because hanna combo black pen suck ass. Thanks for all the tips guys.
 

joespit

Well-Known Member

7.3 is a high ph, lower that shiz, same thing happened to me once I thought I had a nuit problem, so I added more cal/mag/nitro to combat it, the nuits lowered my ph and once the ph was low enough for good root absorption THEN I burnt them legitimately :p Once you get good a ph, you'll may still have issues but electrochemistry wont be one
 
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