This deficiency happens every cycle

Pat1341

Pat1341

Well-Known Member
Mjaylover said:
Are these any good. 4 stars out of 705 reviews I would think is pretty good. Thy claim .05% accuracy on ph and .2% on tdsView attachment 3502740
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Those are the meters I had previously they seem to work well but only for a few months... then my ph meter would never show stability, bought a new ph pen locally and haven't had any problems since... and you can save almost 1/2 off from another source
 

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Dr.Pecker

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Sorry but all ph pens break, just get the gh color dropperupload_2015-9-18_22-37-4.jpeg Also plants sweat at night the light could be toasting them when it comes on. Keep your ph between 5.8 and 6.2 letting it drift a bit isn't really a bad thing. If you use ro water I think you need calmag especially if you don't let the ph drift.
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Im gonna go with over-fed , while your plant might not show excess P & K, it can definetly lock out Ca/Mg and micro nutes from the root zone sitting too low of a pH for a long time.. At this point adding in calcium ect will not do crap untill the root zone pH gets back up to a stable balance. Once you get the pH back up, feed lightly and work your way back.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Mjaylover, you use the word crispy. I'm guessing it's too warm in there. I bet that's your problem. Are you using a fan in that space? gotta have one.
 
R

Ryan70c10

Member
Hay I think I figured out why mine did that it's my ph meter tested last nite and is .4 higher. So it tested at 7.4 and 4.4
 
M

Mjaylover

Active Member
Dr.Pecker said:
Sorry but all ph pens break, just get the gh color dropperView attachment 3502964 Also plants sweat at night the light could be toasting them when it comes on. Keep your ph between 5.8 and 6.2 letting it drift a bit isn't really a bad thing. If you use ro water I think you need calmag especially if you don't let the ph drift.
Click to expand...
So I placed the controller probe in the direct center of the tent (between the two lights) and it was reading 84 degrees with the lights being on for about a hour. I dropped the temp on the Ac to 70 (versus 75 what I previously had it on).

Seems like every time I add calmag things get worse even though the rust spots are a sign of magnesium defeciency.

SPLFreak808 said:
Im gonna go with over-fed , while your plant might not show excess P & K, it can definetly lock out Ca/Mg and micro nutes from the root zone sitting too low of a pH for a long time.. At this point adding in calcium ect will not do crap untill the root zone pH gets back up to a stable balance. Once you get the pH back up, feed lightly and work your way back.
Click to expand...
The ph is currently at 6.0. I'm gonna do a fresh res change today and I'm wondering if 5mls of bloom will have enough calmag in it or do I need to add more. Obviously trying to keep my ppms around 550 because that seems to be the spot where they are drinking the most nutrients

polishpollack said:
Mjaylover, you use the word crispy. I'm guessing it's too warm in there. I bet that's your problem. Are you using a fan in that space? gotta have one.
Click to expand...

I have a fan it's on the other side of the tent blowing across by he tent but I will admit it's not that great of a placement. I also dropped the Ac down 5 degrees which I assume will drop it quite a bit down. I'm curious what the cost will be added to my already high electricity bill. It's a decent mini split though with a seer of 22 so I'm hoping not much.
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
it doesnt look over fed to me by the way the leaf is pefect shape except for the iron/cal/mag problem. do you use filtered water and is there an ac next to the fan leaves and when the light is off it might get too cold and cells break down. if using filtered water always add 10-15ppm cal/mag otherwise yoou will get a problem with the iron working efficienty if the cal/mag is low. and based on the leaf presentation,not over fed (overfed signs) tip curling down the leaf has burns on the edges first because of the buildup of salt.then the rest of the outer leaf burns till the main leafstem has to much salt it burns the middle.i say temp prob
Indacouch said:
Weed nurds don't ever have ph problems there immune that's why ....
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thats why i use advanced ph perfect and am going to try a run of mills also side by side
 
tokalotapot

tokalotapot

Active Member
oh for the sortof quick fix 15pm calmag in a water bottleand foliar spray once= the spray is more efficient 95% faster calmag intake faster it is fixed
 
M

Mjaylover

Active Member
tokalotapot said:
what are the temps at night. i see a few potential problems.
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Depending on when and how long the compressor stays on 67-71 degrees. Now that I lowered the Ac temp probably even lower

tokalotapot said:
it doesnt look over fed to me by the way the leaf is pefect shape except for the iron/cal/mag problem. do you use filtered water and is there an ac next to the fan leaves and when the light is off it might get too cold and cells break down. if using filtered water always add 10-15ppm cal/mag otherwise yoou will get a problem with the iron working efficienty if the cal/mag is low. and based on the leaf presentation,not over fed (overfed signs) tip curling down the leaf has burns on the edges first because of the buildup of salt.then the rest of the outer leaf burns till the main leafstem has to much salt it burns the middle.i say temp prob

thats why i use advanced ph perfect and am going to try a run of mills also side by side
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How many mls of calmag equals 10-15ppm? I just necked the temps and with the lights turned off 3 min ago the temp was 72.5 so I assume it was around 74 now with lights on. It's been ten min with lights out and temps are already at 69 and dropping quick

MrStickyScissors said:
my god, change that RO filter
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I know right. But the guy at the hydro store keeps saying of the ppms are coming out low than no reason to change.


Ph today is 5.93 from yesterday at 6.01
 
Dr.Pecker

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Mjaylover said:
So I placed the controller probe in the direct center of the tent (between the two lights) and it was reading 84 degrees with the lights being on for about a hour. I dropped the temp on the Ac to 70 (versus 75 what I previously had it on).

Seems like every time I add calmag things get worse even though the rust spots are a sign of magnesium defeciency.



The ph is currently at 6.0. I'm gonna do a fresh res change today and I'm wondering if 5mls of bloom will have enough calmag in it or do I need to add more. Obviously trying to keep my ppms around 550 because that seems to be the spot where they are drinking the most nutrients




I have a fan it's on the other side of the tent blowing across by he tent but I will admit it's not that great of a placement. I also dropped the Ac down 5 degrees which I assume will drop it quite a bit down. I'm curious what the cost will be added to my already high electricity bill. It's a decent mini split though with a seer of 22 so I'm hoping not much.
Click to expand...
You cant have calcium absorption with a ph below 6 that's why I said let it drift before you change it. OR your plants could be sweating causing water to pool up. then the light comes on and fries them. Open the tent just before the lights come on and check for wet leaves. DO YOU HAVE A FAN?
 
M

Mjaylover

Active Member
Diabolical666 said:
Why dont you try running pure water 7.0..Ive never let my ph get below 6.5
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Hmmm in soil maybe, not hydro.

Dr.Pecker said:
You cant have calcium absorption with a ph below 6 that's why I said let it drift before you change it. OR your plants could be sweating causing water to pool up. then the light comes on and fries them. Open the tent just before the lights come on and check for wet leaves. DO YOU HAVE A FAN?
Click to expand...
Yeah I'll have to start letting the ph start at 6.2 and drift backwards then because even leaving it at 6.0 yesterday it dropped to 5.9

I checked before and the only water I've seen on the leaves is when one touches another.

I have a fan in the opposite side of the tent back corner blowing on the canopy but the air probably doesn't make to to the other side of the tent. I will get another fan setup. Question though. Last time I had a oscillating fan blowing from above the canopy facing downwards I noticed the plants in the middle of the oscillation turned crispy so I thought they were drying out.

What is the best position to have the fan on the plants? Plant level?
 
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