Think ive been led astray

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Okay, I educated myself now. Here's the ones you really want CXA2590. And yeah, they do look pretty easy to set up DIY. Just need to get cooling fins and power supply. No point using the standard density 3590s when you can get high density 2590s. Takes about 60% less wattage to get the same light intensity. Here's the video to explain. You would want the 3000k ones for best plant spectrum and least eye damage risk, though somewhat less efficient than the higher CCTs.
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Okay, I educated myself now. Here's the ones you really want CXA2590. And yeah, they do look pretty easy to set up DIY. Just need to get cooling fins and power supply. No point using the standard density 3590s when you can get high density 2590s. Takes about 60% less wattage to get the same light intensity. Here's the video to explain. You would want the 3000k ones for best plant spectrum and least eye damage risk, though somewhat less efficient than the higher CCTs.
Jesus titty-fucking Christ, Bob. You didn't even read my post. I see why other people are annoyed by you in this thread, I posted all the information you would really have needed. I don't think I'm special for posting it, but you're talking about stuff we've covered already like it is breaking news. Sorry, I'm pissy today...

The CXB3590s crush those, but you're on the right track. I'm glad you're getting educated on it, whatever it takes. Here's your questions and my original post again, there's information in them there links.

Cree cobs are exactly what the high bays are, so you just promoted them. WTF did you think they were? What is xbd? And I only mentioned the SK brand name because the original poster said that's what he used. I'm talking about 90 degree reflector Cree LED high bay lights, sometimes called stadium lights. What exactly is your problem with them? And where are the grow tests with these DIY lights? Give me the thread link and I'll see if they're actually any good.
This is a COB
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Arrays-NonDirectional/XLamp-CXA3590

Notice it says 150W peak? Not a typo. Not at all the same as Cree 5 Watt LEDs, Technically COBs should be referred to as LESs - Light Emitting Surfaces, as I understand it. But they are the latest and greatest LED tech, essentially, and they rule with an iron fist. Can I get a hell yeah?

Here's a COB DIY thread. Check the videos.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/realstyles-2nd-white-power-led-grow.876995/

In another year there will be no more discussion about LED vs HID in terms of quality per watt, grams per watt, heat management or light penetration. COBs destroy HID watt-for-watt.
When the prices come down to the point they are affordable to manufacture products with it will be over for HID. Until then the COB DiY folks will silently rule. I can't wait to join their ranks.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Okay, I educated myself now. Here's the ones you really want CXA2590. And yeah, they do look pretty easy to set up DIY. Just need to get cooling fins and power supply. No point using the standard density 3590s when you can get high density 2590s. Takes about 60% less wattage to get the same light intensity. Here's the video to explain. You would want the 3000k ones for best plant spectrum and least eye damage risk, though somewhat less efficient than the higher CCTs.
This is more up to speed in the community...Probably give you a smile even :)
http://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-801574224/Original_Cree_COB_leds.html


I would suggest the CXB25xx, similar to what churchaze built about 6 mos. ago? Right around 50% efficient running 700ma? something like that, Very nice....the new CXB lines.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Jesus titty-fucking Christ, Bob. You didn't even read my post. I see why other people are annoyed by you in this thread, I posted all the information you would really have needed. I don't think I'm special for posting it, but you're talking about stuff we've covered already like it is breaking news. Sorry, I'm pissy today...

The CXB3590s crush those, but you're on the right track. I'm glad you're getting educated on it, whatever it takes. Here's your questions and my original post again, there's information in them there links.
You just don't explain stuff well enough, that's the problem. How exactly do the 3590s crush the 2590s? Is it lm/w efficacy-wise?
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
This is more up to speed in the community...Probably give you a smile even :)
http://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-801574224/Original_Cree_COB_leds.html


I would suggest the CXB25xx, similar to what churchaze built about 6 mos. ago? Right around 50% efficient running 700ma? something like that, Very nice....the new CXB lines.
And here's the top of the line stuffs:
http://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/product/60271660846-801574224/CREE_CXB3590_original_Cree_COB_led_3000K_3500K_4000K_5000K_6500K.html
The DIY concepts are the same, the most expensive single component is often the heatsink. The results from these lights is nothing short of outstanding, and getting better all the time. @SupraSPL @REALSTYLES and @Greengenes707 all have living proof of that, and numerous threads on RIU, should you find yourself interested, click on their names and check the posts, especially the youtube videos.
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
You just don't explain stuff well enough, that's the problem. How exactly do the 3590s crush the 2590s? Is it lm/w efficacy-wise?
You're probably right, I don't. It is all in the datasheets for the components on Cree's site, which I linked to first thing. I am not invested in doing a class on it for you, but I do want you to have the information. I won't do the legwork for you, maybe someone will.

Lumens per watt, overall efficiency and intensity, that's the gist. Nothing wrong with the CXAs really, but in my opinion if you're going to invest money in a heatsink and driver, and all the other hardware to build one it might as well be cutting edge, but that's my preference.

I was just a little disappointed that in my initial post in this thread I gave you everything you needed, but it felt to me like you didn't bother with it. However; We all learn differently, I forget that. I'm a reader and researcher, and maybe your mind likes a conversation or visual presentation better. I really am not a good teacher in that regard.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
You're probably right, I don't. It is all in the datasheets for the components on Cree's site, which I linked to first thing. I am not invested in doing a class on it for you, but I do want you to have the information. I won't do the legwork for you, maybe someone will.

Lumens per watt, overall efficiency and intensity, that's the gist. Nothing wrong with the CXAs really, but in my opinion if you're going to invest money in a heatsink and driver, and all the other hardware to build one it might as well be cutting edge, but that's my preference.

I was just a little disappointed that in my initial post in this thread I gave you everything you needed, but it felt to me like you didn't bother with it. However; We all learn differently, I forget that. I'm a reader and researcher, and maybe your mind likes a conversation or visual presentation better. I really am not a good teacher in that regard.
I'm a slow learner, Michael, but I get it now. The CXBs are up to 33% more efficient than the CXAs. I just wasn't thinking straight before, that's all.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Stoner. Don't beat yourself up, or anything, haha. I really do want to help but I'm a fairly impatient asshole by nature.
Actually there doesn't seem to be much difference between the CXB high-bays and the XBD ones. They're both 100 lm/w. Just look at the listings for the lamps. The 240 watt CBXs put out 24,000 lm and the 400 watt XBDs put out 40,000. Where's the extra efficiency? It's just easier to wire the arrays than the single LEDs so they're better for DIY projects. If you buy the manufactured lamps there's really no difference. The XBD ones actually look like they have better reflectors.
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Actually there doesn't seem to be much difference between the CXB high-bays and the XBD ones. They're both 100 lm/w. Just look at the listings for the lamps. The 240 watt CBXs put out 24,000 lm and the 400 watt XBDs put out 40,000. Where's the extra efficiency? It's just easier to wire the arrays than the single LEDs so they're better for DIY projects. If you buy the manufactured lamps there's really no difference. The XBD ones actually look like they have better reflectors.
OK, interesting. I thought CXB3590's were pushing 150lm/w at normal operating temps, but you may be right. I'm sleepy, anyone smart want to weigh in?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Actually there doesn't seem to be much difference between the CXB high-bays and the XBD ones. They're both 100 lm/w. Just look at the listings for the lamps. The 240 watt CBXs put out 24,000 lm and the 400 watt XBDs put out 40,000. Where's the extra efficiency? It's just easier to wire the arrays than the single LEDs so they're better for DIY projects. If you buy the manufactured lamps there's really no difference. The XBD ones actually look like they have better reflectors.
Yeah but 24W CXB3590 can put more than 200lm/W easily. There's the efficiency and the difference. Can't be done with XB-D. So yes, COBs are easier to work, higher efficiency can be achieved and they're also much cheaper.

On the other hand, a COB-based light isn't automatically a great grow light.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Actually there doesn't seem to be much difference between the CXB high-bays and the XBD ones. They're both 100 lm/w. Just look at the listings for the lamps. The 240 watt CBXs put out 24,000 lm and the 400 watt XBDs put out 40,000. Where's the extra efficiency? It's just easier to wire the arrays than the single LEDs so they're better for DIY projects. If you buy the manufactured lamps there's really no difference. The XBD ones actually look like they have better reflectors.
That Cree high bay is using old cxb/affordable cobs to meet the price point for commercial adoption http://generationleds.com/products/CREE-CXB-A-XX-M-240-Watt-LED-High-Bay-Luminaire-Light-Fixture-16-400W-HID-Equivalent cxa family was the top dog at it's release....

cxb3590 is the most efficient offering from cree atm.......
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
assume
parabolic reflector maybe around 90% transmittance.
glass cover over the reflector around 90% transmittance
refractor maybe around 90% transmittance.

you are losing at least 20% of your light. what a stupid idea (refractor), almost as dumb as a round grow space.


.
Yeah, round grow spaces are dumb. Getting rid of dark corners, WTF?
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Yeah but 24W CXB3590 can put more than 200lm/W easily. There's the efficiency and the difference. Can't be done with XB-D. So yes, COBs are easier to work, higher efficiency can be achieved and they're also much cheaper.

On the other hand, a COB-based light isn't automatically a great grow light.
I see. So the trick is to use many low power arrays instead of a few high power ones. Weird how there would be a difference though. Aren't they driven at the same current? Though come to think of it, I don't believe you can get 200 lm/w from any current LED. The highest figure I've seen is 148. I just checked the data sheets and the CXBs are about 9% more efficient than the CXAs, 12,000 lm compared to 11,000 and 13,000 compared to 12,000 at the same currents and temps. So yeah, there is a slight advantage. What's the price difference though?
 
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alesh

Well-Known Member
I see. So the trick is to use many low power arrays instead of a few high power ones. Weird how there would be a difference though. Aren't they driven at the same current? Though come to think of it, I don't believe you can get 200 lm/w from any current LED. The highest figure I've seen is 148.
Well, you can. The trick is to use large COBs at really low current. You can get about 220lm/W from the top bin CXB3590 at 23W. And there's a few more 200lm/W options.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Well, you can. The trick is to use large COBs at really low current. You can get about 220lm/W from the top bin CXB3590 at 23W. And there's a few more 200lm/W options.
Oh I see, okay, that sounds plausible. They're cheap enough that it would be practical to use a lot of them at very low currents I guess. What kind of intensities can you get at those currents? You need at least 400 PPFD for normal growth in Cannabis. Below that it just drops right off like a cliff. I've seen the graph. There's actually no point in building a setup where there's less than that at any point.
 
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