KaliKitsune
Well-Known Member
Yes, get a warm white for flowering. Red is used for flowering and fruiting, blue, being higher energy, is used for growth.
Things to Know About Lighting
- Thread starter roosterfish
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born2killspam
Well-Known Member
Thats exactly my point, exacept the ratio is more like 1.5:1, not many orders.. Blue photons take more energy to create, therefore you can create more red photons with a given amount of energy than you can blue photons.. The photon/energy relationship follows E = h/wavelength (where h=6.6*10^34m^2*kg/s)..
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
BTW, by red I mean like 2700K, by blue I mean lik 6500K+..
You should technically have an equal amount of red and blue light along with orange and clear white. Just use MH 4000k-6500k(vegetative) and HPS 2200k-2700k(flowering) Nothing Will go wrong with that light regime. No matter the watts its much more efficient and less costly. Gauranteed I believe. I use one 150watt HPS light fixture for two plants and i get an easy 2 to 3 z's from each plant, not to mention... CO2 added to the equation.
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
All HIDs provide a colour range of photons.. I have no idea what you're basing your costing claim on, but its pretty baseless..
Also, I don't know if 150W over 2 plants with those proportions is intense enough to warrant CO2 addition.. Probably won't hurt, but probably isn't adding any punch either..
Also, I don't know if 150W over 2 plants with those proportions is intense enough to warrant CO2 addition.. Probably won't hurt, but probably isn't adding any punch either..
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THE NIZZLE
Active Member
hi im a newbie here and just starting my first grow ive got some kit cos i had little go at it a while ago but now i got more room and time i can do it proply now, i was just wondering if any1 could help, i have a 125w e40 energy saving bulb red one and just wondering if i could use this for my veg stage and would i need a higher watt bulb for my mothering stage im trying to make it as cheap as possible on the electric, if any1 could help would be very greatfull thanks
KaliKitsune
Well-Known Member
Read our growFAQ located at the top of our page.
pokesmotsrh
Active Member
everything i need to know about lighting thank you!
tusseltussel
Well-Known Member
i consider it very impostant... when its unimportant is when you use cfl's because lumens dnt add up you just get more points of light kinda like when you turn a radio real loud than turn the tv on it doesnt make the volume on the radio get louder
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
That has nothing to do with lumens imparticular though.. My point about lumens/plants is in respect to absorbtion/reflection coefficients, not intensity plots over an area..
Lumens are guaged in terms of human sensitivity.. We see 1W of 550nm light perhaps 20x as brightly as we see 1W of 670nm light..
Plants on the otherhand see wavelengths almost oppositely.. They see longer/shorter wavelengths many times more efficiently than they see 500-600nm light..
So 550nm light carries about 680lm/W (but is pretty useless to plants) while 680nm light only carries about 40 lumens/W (but 40lumens of 670nm light is equally desirable to a plant as 680lumens of 550nm light)..
Like I said, when comparing similar spectrums, lumens are fine to use for comparision since its more like a scaling factor with matching spectrums, but the amount of photosynthesis enabled by 10000lumens of HPS light will not correlate directly to the amount of photosynthesis enabled by 10000lumens of MH light.. Making lumens/W the dumbest of all numbers to give creedence to in horticulture..
Your complaint about light superposition with cfls actually has nothing to do with lumens, but rather lux.. (Or better still, W/m^2)..
Light units and math were concieved in terms of point sources, not spiral tubes.. Its the geometry of cfls that makes it difficult to jack up the intensity.. Not only are alot of those lumens going to be converted to heat bouncing around the interior od the coil, but if you look at the diagrams in that pdf, you'll notice that the intensity plots are not designed in a way that facilitiates peak intensity addition.. (eg intensity is lower around the 130° and 230° angles, and that is where you need effective light casting if you want multiple sources to sum up effeiciently to a higher intensity..)
http://btech.lbl.gov/papers/37010.pdf
Lumens are guaged in terms of human sensitivity.. We see 1W of 550nm light perhaps 20x as brightly as we see 1W of 670nm light..
Plants on the otherhand see wavelengths almost oppositely.. They see longer/shorter wavelengths many times more efficiently than they see 500-600nm light..
So 550nm light carries about 680lm/W (but is pretty useless to plants) while 680nm light only carries about 40 lumens/W (but 40lumens of 670nm light is equally desirable to a plant as 680lumens of 550nm light)..
Like I said, when comparing similar spectrums, lumens are fine to use for comparision since its more like a scaling factor with matching spectrums, but the amount of photosynthesis enabled by 10000lumens of HPS light will not correlate directly to the amount of photosynthesis enabled by 10000lumens of MH light.. Making lumens/W the dumbest of all numbers to give creedence to in horticulture..
Your complaint about light superposition with cfls actually has nothing to do with lumens, but rather lux.. (Or better still, W/m^2)..
Light units and math were concieved in terms of point sources, not spiral tubes.. Its the geometry of cfls that makes it difficult to jack up the intensity.. Not only are alot of those lumens going to be converted to heat bouncing around the interior od the coil, but if you look at the diagrams in that pdf, you'll notice that the intensity plots are not designed in a way that facilitiates peak intensity addition.. (eg intensity is lower around the 130° and 230° angles, and that is where you need effective light casting if you want multiple sources to sum up effeiciently to a higher intensity..)
http://btech.lbl.gov/papers/37010.pdf
KaliKitsune
Well-Known Member
Because they're for LIGHTING, not GROWING.
Lumens is a measurement of GREEN LIGHT that human eyes can perceive. Plants don't use green light which is why we see most plants as green, so lumens is pretty much a useless measurement. It's only going to give you an idea of how much potential light you *MIGHT* output in the green spectrum. Lumens cannot be applied to red or blue light.
Alright quick question. I have two 95 watt compact actinic daylight(6500k and 7500k) flourescents and two 30 watt 4200k floros. Since my grow closet is too small for a HPS bulb, because it gets exceedingly hott with one 150w bulb, will these flourescents promote good flowering for two plants? So far my plants have been under 2 weeks of flowering regime and have a lot of pistils and leaf nodes everywhere. Im growing one female AK47 and one Lemon Haze and they are both blooming very well. I know that my color temp should be below 3200k for flowerin but this is all i have for the next 5 weeks.
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
Yea, air-cool for sure.. you'll get more stray heat from any number of watts floro than you will from the same watts HID.. A decently managed 150W hps should be able to run in 5-6 cuft I'm guessing as long as you've got the height..
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
trailerparkboy
Well-Known Member
i plan on using a 2ft 4 tube t5 with 2 6500k an 2 3000k 24 watt bulbs for my first grow of 3 plants in a closet is this enough or am i dreamin any feedback much aprreciated
born2killspam
Well-Known Member
Its not alot, but it might grow the plants.. Alot will depend on how you train the tops, but don't expect much for yield..