Thermal Inertia

UKpeanuts

Well-Known Member
If I put a massive chunk of aluminium or cooper in my grow room/ big volume,/ small surface area/ (opposite to heatsink) say, 1-2" tall and the same footprint as my box. (and put it under pots)

In theory it would absorb heat during lights on, and release heat during lights off.-


YEa Nice picture!

But would i actually do anything to capture and release wasted heat energy during lights on?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
" But would i actually do anything to capture and release wasted heat energy during lights on? "

Although ,not exactly sure why would you like such a thing ,I probably can imagine.
Just ,keep in mind ,that mj during the "dark" hours ,likes a temperature of 10 degrees C lower than the ambient temperature during photosynthesis.

Copper or aluminium are not the best materials for that job .
Probably the best material for that is ..water ...
And then metal oxides /borides/carbonates ..Meaning metal containing stone /rock ..
Like granite .
But also you can use a thick chunk of iron,steel or even better "cast iron " (iron alloy containing 2.5% - 5% Carbon ).

The-actual- term is Heat Capacity or Thermal Capacitance .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity
http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2003/05/thermal-capacitance/


As long as LEDS do not radiate massive amounts of heat ,but instead they conduct it via a heat sink ,which in turn it convects the heat with ambient air and that air is moved away from the grow site for CO2 replenishment , I can hardly expect that LEDs or COBs would manage to heat a wet substrate or a massive chunk of granite or cast iron ...
(Fire places /stoves do use materials as such for that reason ,but then wood logs are being burned for some time ,generating temperatures over 400 C and massive amounts of energy are unleashed as heat) .

Frankly ,I do not see it happening with LEDs or COBs ..

Cheers.
:peace:
 
Last edited:

p4id

Well-Known Member
A better way might be to liquid cool the led's rather than a heat sink, then run the warm water/oil through an underfloor heating panel (loads on the market) as a way of utilising the excess heat to keep the pots warm at night.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
A better way might be to liquid cool the led's rather than a heat sink, then run the warm water through an underfloor heating panel (loads on the market) as a way of utilising the excess heat to keep the pots warm at night.
If you put aside the extra electric energy that is needed for fans & water pumps, the complexicity & total price of such design and the risk of water leaks / pump malfunction (Bye-bye COBs in such case ) , yeah, that is a solution.

Cheers.
:peace:
 

p4id

Well-Known Member
hehe, doesn't sound so great now.
I use heated propagator trays on good insulation to save the concrete floor from chilling the pots at lights out during winter in zone 8.
 
Top