The BubbleHead Gang

Olias said:

Dear Bubble heads all you help is so valued
the Tutorials are such a big help especially Rosemans way on how to Harvest . I need help is WHEN to Harvest?

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You harvest when the buds are ripe and mature.

You can go by a calender some. If you have Indica, do 12/12 for 9 weeks, if yu ahve Sativa, 13+ weeks. That will give you a clue.

Now, examine the Stigma, the little slim thing that we call the hairs. If they are ALL white, it is not ready. You want them colored, mostly red, redish brown to brown. NOT ALL DARK Brown.

You can go by the trichome color, which is best in my opinion:

Trichome Chart, When to Harvest

of couse someone that likes to argue, will argue with this post.

There are other ways, but this is how I do it.


get a eye loupe they use for looking at 35mm slides for cheap




or get a jewelers loupe.

I use this:

$13 at Radio Shack

Mongobud said:

I think it may be from nutrient lock-up from PH fluctuation. I'll give them another day to see.

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Hey Mongobud,

I'm not the best plant problem diagnoser in the world, but I agree that you may have a nute lockout issue, possibly Mg. And you're probably right that ph fluxuation may be the problem, especially if the ph was below 5.0 for an extended period of time.

But you may have a water problem as well, in my opinion. It looks like your leaves are drooping a bit (like your plants are being overwatered) which in my experience means the roots aren't happy; they might not be getting enough oxygen and/or not taking in the nutrients.

Here's a little checklist to run through to make sure you problem isn't caused by water problems:

1. High water temperature (above 75* F). High water temps means lower dissolved oxygen levels and less nutrient uptake, but that doesn't seem to be the case in your instance.

2. Water level too high. Are the roots in the water? If so, is the water level 2" or more below the pots? It's useful to have some of the roots above water level to help with oxygen uptake.

3. Tap water or water from a water softener. Are you using tap water? If so, do you know what the ppm of the water is? High tap water ppm usually means high levels of calcium, and high levels of calcium can lock out Mg. And you say you are having a hard time stabilizing the ph; calcium acts as a buffer (buffers the water so it stays at 7.0, for instance) and if there's lots of calcium in the water it will take a lot of ph down to eventually counteract it and stabilize the water at a lower ph.

4. Chlorinated water. If you are using tap water and you don't let it sit for 24 hours or so, you might have high levels of chlorine and ammonium, which can also lock out Mg.

5. Chasing ph. Making rapid and large changes in the ph can shock the plants, giving them an overall droopy appearance. In my opinion, it's better to let the ph be excessively high/low and adjust gradually then to adjust all at once to get it back in range.

6. Air pump not adequately oxygenating the water. What size pump are you using, are your airstones clogged, etc.

7. The dreaded pathogen. How do your roots look? Any slime on the roots? Any smells in the reservoir?

Anyways, take this for what it's worth...and good luck!

Thanks Dys,

Do you guys use a little H2O2 in everygallon of nutrient solution or just when you see a problem?

Mongobud said:

Thanks Dys,

Do you guys use a little H2O2 in everygallon of nutrient solution or just when you see a problem?

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I use it as a preventative measure, not a problem solver. I add to nutrient solution and top-off water.

Since the concentration levels of H2O2 vary based on source - I use a 35% food-grade solution, if you get yours from a drug store it's probably 3% - I add enough to make my ppm level rise about 300 ppms. I've gone as high as 500 ppms with no adverse effects. Once you've done it a few times you get a good idea of how much you need to add per gallon.

Bear in mind that I do not count this towards the nutrient ppm level. For instance, if I want my nutrient ppm level to be 800, I'll ppm my water first (mine is usually around 60ppm), add enough nutrients to till I reach 860 ppm, then add H2O2 until I reach 1160 ppm. The H2O2 rapidly breaks down to water and oxygen, so I add some more with each top-off.

Oxy Blast in another prevenative product. Never used it though, but recently looking into it more. Just something else to think about.



anyone know more about it ? Use it ?

RPsmoke420 said:

Oxy Blast in another prevenative product. Never used it though, but recently looking into it more. Just something else to think about.



anyone know more about it ? Use it ?

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I haven't used it, but I believe it's just basically 35% H2O2 with some "proprietary" additives. I don't know how much it costs - if it's comparable to stock 35% H2O2 then fine - but I look at it kind of like supplements: why pay so much for something that your plant is already getting from your base nutrients?

Just my opinion.

I would use H202 as a treatment only. If I did use it as a preventative I would go very small dose of about 1ml per gallon or 1 tsp per res. No particular reason why but if I am using household items I always go small and wait to see what the plant thinks.

MostlyCrazy said:

I would use H202 as a treatment only. If I did use it as a preventative I would go very small dose of about 1ml per gallon or 1 tsp per res. No particular reason why but if I am using household items I always go small and wait to see what the plant thinks.

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LOL, good point. I can't say I NEED to add H2O2 as a preventative measure. The only reason I do it is because I've read you should do it (I know, sheeple). It's cheap enough, I've always used it, and I've never had a pathogen problem in my water. But I can't say that's because of the H2O2; it's more likely to be because I ensure my reservoir's light-tight and I keep my water temps down.

I'm not shy about using it either; I use about 1 - 2 tablespoons per ten gallons of water for 35% H2O2; I reckon that would be about 1 - 2 tablespoons of 3% per gallon.

I'm not sure how effective it would be to solve a pathogen problem, though, especially if it's at the stage where you notice it. I would think you would have to use high dosages for an extended time. But like I said, I've never had to deal with root rot or anything so I can't testify to it's effectiveness for curing it. If I ever ran across this problem I'd probably go with a fungicide to fix it.

Heres a little update of the one coming down Sat. These are current as of today

Roseman said:

You harvest when the buds are ripe and mature.

You can go by a calender some. If you have Indica, do 12/12 for 9 weeks, if yu ahve Sativa, 13+ weeks. That will give you a clue.

Now, examine the Stigma, the little slim thing that we call the hairs. If they are ALL white, it is not ready. You want them colored, mostly red, redish brown to brown. NOT ALL DARK Brown.

You can go by the trichome color, which is best in my opinion:

Trichome Chart, When to Harvest

of couse someone that likes to argue, will argue with this post.

There are other ways, but this is how I do it.


get a eye loupe they use for looking at 35mm slides for cheap

or get a jewelers loupe.

I use this:

$13 at Radio Shack

Click to expand...

I have one of those! There kinda hard to focus on the buds when there still on the plant in my opinion. But when you do watch out!

Well i come to the conclusion that im not gonna let IS get me away from here..But everything is legit with loudblunts...he is a knowledgable grower...He said a bubblehead snitched on him..or one of our crew,,if this is true,i cant be part of any snitchin..im not sayin it was a bubblehead..but we do have morrals right?Snitchin is deff. not one of them.If we have a problem we call on eachother..not the popo..POWER in NUMBERS! Theres a couple MODS,,but the bubbleheads are growing stronger by the day.Lets keep it up

i new u were not the type of man to be run off. damn sure not by a bird

Snitch!!! Wtf.. I do not like snitches nor do i want to be associated with one. I say let stip him naked and hang him by his balls and let the crows have a piece of him. We have to find out whos the snitch?

http://www.house-garden.us/
everyone..check this out..its supposed to real good nutes and cheap too..check it out..a 2 part formula..Well whoever did it..lesson learned..thers more power in numbers.

purpdaddy said:

Well i come to the conclusion that im not gonna let IS get me away from here..But everything is legit with loudblunts...he is a knowledgable grower...He said a bubblehead snitched on him..or one of our crew,,if this is true,i cant be part of any snitchin..im not sayin it was a bubblehead..but we do have morrals right?Snitchin is deff. not one of them.If we have a problem we call on eachother..not the popo..POWER in NUMBERS! Theres a couple MODS,,but the bubbleheads are growing stronger by the day.Lets keep it up

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WTF did I miss? I just went through the bubbleponics superior to aeroponics thread...I thought everybody knew that ebb and flow was superior to DWC? Unless you want dank buds, that is...

I don't know why anyone would snitch...fuck that shit: defend your position, if you can't take the heat get out, but I don't understand how anybody can get all butt hurt by words on a forum and have to go crying to mommy.

And I say fuck the paranoia, no need to point fingers, kharma is a bitch (I'm a goddamn cliche machine today!)

Glad to see you back!

snitching is a dying breed

well im glad we all agree about the no snitching.Proud of THE BUBBLEHEADS!

if there is NO snitching, then why am i here?

purpdaddy said:

http://www.house-garden.us/
everyone..check this out..its supposed to real good nutes and cheap too..check it out..a 2 part formula..Well whoever did it..lesson learned..thers more power in numbers.

Click to expand...

So the pool is tainted. Damn I thought it was all good here. Thats dirty Purp Real dirty.

We talkin bout the small stuff..like snitching cause you tell someone they full of shit?
Alotta people would not be successfull with their BP if it werent for bubbleheads.We dont want any INCORRECT info out there about this great system