the bho tips and tricks thread

The Growery

Active Member
It seems like there are a lot of oil heads in these michigan forums so I figured why not start a thread for those who would like to share tips and tricks to get the most out their oil. I've been noticing that about 90% of the dabbers I run into think that goopy, sappy bho is the way it is supposed to be so hopefully passing around some knowledge will help fix that statistic.

I've always felt that anything short of honeycomb is not purged fully. My school of thought on this derives from the notion that honeycomb is not sticky and crumbles, so what is it that causes other types of bho to be sticky or hard to break apart (shatter/glass/earl/budder). I've come to the conclusion that it must be butane that causes this stickyness and strong cohesion among thc molecules.

I learned something new today that I wanted to share for those who don't already do this:

save your extracted plant material when you are done blasting and save it to repurge later on that day. if you examine the spent material you will notice that there are tons of resin heads still in there and ready to be extracted.

I have found that you can double your oil yield if you re-blast the plant material. The reblasted extract is the same light amber color as the "first" extracted batch indicating that quality does not lessen. Even after a second blast, I notice that there are still resin heads galore and am tempted to blast for a third time.

I've tried several different extraction methods including honeybee, glass tubes and stainless steel turkey basters. I find that small 6", 3/4" diameter turkey basters provide the biggest yield compared to the amount of butane used. It is more labor intensive, but in the end I feel it's worth the effort.

I have used larger glass tubes (2 ft x 2" diameter) for extraction and there is no doubt that larger tubes = less efficiency concerning the oil produced : butane used ratio.

Please post any thoughts you have about bho extraction and what you do to increase yield and minimize labor!
 

Weedz b Baked

Active Member
Dude, you've touched cannabis, right? The resin on cannabis is sticky... Butane is definitely not the cause. Sorry to sound like an ass but come on..

It sounds like you believe honeycomb or budder is the correct way of making bho and if you're not open to discussion I'll feel free to not join in.
 

The Growery

Active Member
Dude, you've touched cannabis, right? The resin on cannabis is sticky... Butane is definitely not the cause. Sorry to sound like an ass but come on..

It sounds like you believe honeycomb or budder is the correct way of making bho and if you're not open to discussion I'll feel free to not join in.
if you have some input please post it. no need to be rude.
 

Weedz b Baked

Active Member
I've been noticing that about 90% of the dabbers I run into think that goopy, sappy bho is the way it is supposed to be so hopefully passing around some knowledge will help fix that statistic.
Okay, well then don't say stuff like that... Fix the statistic? I think 100% of people who dab should prefer sap/shatter so if that's what you mean by fix the statistic sure, but I'm assuming you meant 'fix it' in a manner of persuading people to prefer budder/honeycomb.. Leave it open to discussion. Honestly until someone has scientific proof that budder/honeycomb is superior I'd rather not hear all of this flawed logic.

So whether shatter, wax, budder, whatever... it sounds like you could fix somethings in your process to make it less work. You should be getting most of the resin with the first go and I've noticed if I do re run my material I end up with maybe 10% of my original return. I'm not 100% sure on what the cause may be but I have a feeling you're not using enough butane.

With quality buds you should be getting anywhere from a 16-28% return (possibly even higher) and trim can vary quite a bit.

I've heard different brands of butane can give back different returns but I haven't noticed a difference between lucienne or vector. I would suggest staying away from cheaper brands even though head shop owners may push it on you and say it's fine.

Something that I've noticed that helps with purging quite a bit is spraying onto a warm dish.

sorry for being an ass...
 

The Growery

Active Member
hopefully someone can help with this -

i've got about 50 bho runs under my belt and have never run into this issue:

normally I make honeycomb with a vac and heat purge and typically it waxes up and dries out in about 24 hours under purge.

well, this latest batch, which was made with bluecheese and cotton candy buds has been purging for about 96 hours so far and it's still not all the way waxed up. I can see under the surface that it is indeed waxing up and where the bubbles pop you can tell it's a budder consistency so I know it's getting there, but anyone have any idea why the heck it's taking so long to wax up? anyone seen this before?

I don't really have any choice but to wait it out but damn... I have patients waiting on this oil for 2 days now and they are getting impatient. from what I see it looks like it will be another few days before it waxes up completely.

specs (done simultaneously):

vac purge -29.9 in/Hg
heat purge - 125F

anyone has some ideas throw em at me
 

TheMan13

Well-Known Member
If I recall correctly, RareD mentioned that old material can do that as the trichs have broken down over time.
 

Volpester

New Member
Every strain will purge differently some better than others. Best bet is trial and error till you find the perfect strain for what u want. And I will disagree with the stickiness meaning there is excess tane. Sappy wax can be caused by many different factors. Personally I have found that it's usually lower grade/Older material that results in sappy bho. Other reasons could be excess heat while purging. I stick with long vac cycles 12-48 hours at a temp no greater than 105 degrees (f). Moisture in the material could also be a reason for sappy bho so I usually put a fan on it for a couple hours.
 

cephalopod

Well-Known Member
If you want a nice hollandaise or bernaise you start with clarified butter. What I'm getting at is I didn't see you mention anything of any filter processing at all. That's the point that I would definitely hypothetically be doing things differently(until the law is corrected). I suggest keeping your blast cold from the start and skip the dish, try a qt jar, do your run. When you're finished, if you processed enough quickly enough, you should have a volume of butane in your jar. If things are kept could enough, you should have contaminants precipitating from the solution at this point use your un bleached coffee filter and filter it into another jar (careful not to fill the filter more than half way to keep from forcing particles through) then winterize for a minimum of 48 hours, re-filter (kept in the freezer using temp acclimated filter and container) and do your thing. Bottom line quality/quantity, whats lost in quantity is gained in quality.
bon appetit
 
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