Testing LED pontoon+induction system==Old school organic grow for TESLA:)

PSUAGRO. · Mar 21, 2013

Hello RIU led and other lighting growers

... time for another crappy test grow and free smoke for me!!!!lol.....either way I'm gonna TRY to pull some decent #'s from this Indagro Hybrid led system......Blah onto the pics VVVVVVV

Lighting: par 100 induction panel(105watts) plus the led pontoons(12watts)== 117 watts total

ah that nice white spectral output, missed it and yes my stealthy friends this system is dead quiet..... big plus in my book..

Medium: 70% local organic soil , 20% cocco, 10% perlite........I'll probably bitch about this mix later

Strain: Sensi seeds Northern lights FEM (5 pack)........I've grown this old school girl many times and was rarely disappointed === LOW ODOR/ decent indoor yields and stays short an fat==if not I'll make her

Ferts and additives : Roots organic uprising foundation/bloom/ Nitro bat guano/dynamite CRF/ flowerthrive beni bac/azomite......RO foundation/azomite/nitro bat guano/ dyna CRF's and horti lime granules already mixed in, the rest of the stuff will be added later when necessary. This mix is HOT so will see how far I get out of the gate...

Pots: Same ones as last time..........Two gallon Root Trapper II bags, still have no idea if their worth the price.

Ventilation: Still running a sealed room unfortunately

just my trusty 12 inch wall mount fan and nothing else.

my CO2 levels are very high(heat use) and this apartment needs some fresh air obviously ......still fucking freezing here in the North east though.

Odor Control: My big white plastic box with a fan/filter==AKA== Filtrete "air purifier" with active carbon added...

Light schedule: Starting at 24/0 and will gradually bring it down to 14/10 by day thirty if all goes well.........I may also go down to 12/12 if the 730nm leds don't give me the results I want......

2 Seeds soaked for 24 hrs and have been placed in the soil.......once they pop we begin this grow

Thanks RIU and lets hope for the best

................be safe and happy growing

Edit: Comments and criticisms ARE WELCOME as always!!!!!

Psychonaughtical · Mar 21, 2013

Suuuubbbed. Excited to see what's coming from this.

HiloReign · Mar 21, 2013

I'm definitely in for this one. Good luck, friend, although I know you don't need it...

Chronikool · Mar 21, 2013

Just went to 'subbedway'.....

Whatz that? Oh itz way too early for lame jokes? Ok i'll just watch then....

hyroot · Mar 21, 2013

Are you using the Hans panel at all with this one?

Btw I harvested my NL x og hybrid. Stinks so much. Has a sweet candy almost og smell. tastes more like sweet candy. No og / diesel taste. Very potent. My neighbor of 2 years . Complained about the smell of one bowl being smoked lol. First complaint ever.

subbed

puffenuff · Mar 21, 2013

Wishing you a smooth run brother. Looking forward to another awesome grow.

chazbolin · Mar 21, 2013

Dammit Jim I'm a gardener not an LED scientist! This better work. We're in good hands with P though. Should be a fun run. I hope RIU doesn't have limit on subbed threads.

PetFlora · Mar 21, 2013

This should be fun :bigjoint:

Splifferous · Mar 21, 2013

sweet! this is gonna be fun! good luck PSU!

natro.hydro · Mar 21, 2013

Subbd up,its pontoon party tim on riu baby! did not know they ere making one for the 100 pro but never asled... how many diodes does your lil guy got?

Splifferous · Mar 21, 2013

if i'm not mistakes, thats the one for the 100 PARs and the 200 PARs. i'm really eager to see the outcome here!!!

PSUAGRO. · Mar 22, 2013

Psychonaughtical said:
Suuuubbbed. Excited to see what's coming from this.

Me too!!! And always great to see how a plant reacts under a specific light spec from SEED.......

HiloReign said:
I'm definitely in for this one. Good luck, friend, although I know you don't need it...

Thanks friend and YES I always need luck........dealing with a living organisms, shit can always go south

puffenuff said:
Wishing you a smooth run brother. Looking forward to another awesome grow.

Thanks puff............your grow can't go any smoother/ very healthy girls you got........I like your thinking on downsizing the plant #'s and increasing pot size=== the runs will be longer but you yield will increase....

chazbolin said:
Dammit Jim I'm a gardener not an LED scientist! This better work. We're in good hands with P though. Should be a fun run. I hope RIU doesn't have limit on subbed threads.

"should" be fun...........lets see if the girls pop first

PetFlora said:
This should be fun

All sold out of the (6.5= 40watt equiv== $9.99!!) WW cree light bulbs at my home depot/ nada........like hotcakes my friend

Splifferous said:
sweet! this is gonna be fun! good luck PSU!

Thank you Spliff...........Liking your results with this hybrid system.....I'm expecting good things.

natro.hydro said:
Subbd up,its pontoon party tim on riu baby! did not know they ere making one for the 100 pro but never asled... how many diodes does your lil guy got?

On my model ==4 diodes on each side (3-660nm/ 1-730nm)...........Six total 660nm run with the power on and two 730nm run at lights out for 5(?) minutes.

Splifferous said:
if i'm not mistakes, thats the one for the 100 PARs and the 200 PARs. i'm really eager to see the outcome here!!!

Didn't know this............so the 200 and 100 par have the same reflector housing dimensions???

@ Hyroot , Don't know why your quote got cut.......... but anyways NO Hans panel involved in this, I want to personally see what this system can do by itself. If my final yield #'s are bad I want people to blame me (grower error) and not the induction/led panel.

Also If I can't get this RO uprising line finally dialed in........then I officially SUCK!

guod · Mar 22, 2013

I see Led, so i´m inda grow

On my model ==4 diodes on each side (3-660nm/ 1-730nm)...........Six total 660nm run with the power on and two 730nm run at lights out for 5(?) minutes.

...hope.. your plants will not ! explode !

.
.
.... Make it Snow

The Dawg · Mar 24, 2013

Brother Psuagro Have You Ever Considered Defoliation To Increase Your Yields?Below Is A Copy Of A Student Studying For His Masters In Horticulture You Might Find It Interesting Reading And If Ya Like I Can Pm Ya His Entire Thread.But If Ya Want To Keep Your Head In The Sand And Grow 80's Style Well Hell Thats Up To You.Im Subbed Up For Your Grow As Always Brother Peace And Some Likem Shaved And Some Likem Hairy :hug:

First of all, you will need to understand the concept of Source vs. Sink within a plant. Pretty self explanatory, a source is any part of the plant that generates more photosynthate (sugar) than it requires for growth, and a sink is any part of the plant that requires more photosynthate than it can produce (or is producing). What is key to understand with this is that a plant tissue can change from sink, to source, and back to sink all as part of the plants natural process. For example, a newly forming leaf (fan leaf or bud leaf) is always going to be a sink, requiring more sugar to grow than it is currently producing from photosynthesis. . . but once that leaf has reached close to its mature size, it is producing much more sugar than it requires because it is hardly growing at that point. . . .and then again as that leaf becomes older and cells start to get older, the chlorophyll will actually lose effeciency and although the leaf may still look green and healthy, it is no longer generating more photosynthate than it requires to stay alive, and therefore older leaves become sinks again!

There are also parts of the plant which will almost always be sinks. Those are things like the roots (obviously no way of producing photosynthate, but still require it), the flowers on most plants because most flowers contain very little to no chlorophyll compared to a leaf, and seeds are always going to be sinks (the strongest sink).

The important reason I am explaining the Source vs. Sink relationship is because when you have too many sinks and not enough sources, your yield goes down and the overall vigor of your plant is reduced. So to maximize yield and sugar content in the final product (the buds), growers should try to eliminate other sinks as much as possible, while maintaining as many strong sources as they can without risking poor airflow or reduced efficiency with too much shading.

Keeping all this in mind, you can guess that a leaf which is receiving less light (heavily shaded) is most likely going to be functioning as a sink in the plant, drawing sugar away from other sinks that you may be more concerned about such as the buds. Removing leaves above the shaded leaf may give it more light, and maybe enough to start generating more sugar than it needs, but the lower down the leaf, the sooner it will be past its highest efficiency and the closer it is to becoming a sink permanently because of photosynthetic efficiency loss. Therefore, I tend to remove older fan leaves (less efficient) first before I go removing mature newer leaves higher up on the stems because they are more efficient.

Now, once you have removed any leaves that are past their prime, you may still have some fan leaves shading other bud sites, which in cannabis do produce their own smaller bud leaves. The larger fan leaves are MUCH more efficient at producing photosynthate than the smaller bud leaves, and because they tend to be more exposed to air flow they will also transpire more, meaning they help more water and nutrients move through the plant compared to bud leaves which have much less surface area and transpire/photosynthesize much less. So, that means it is better to keep large fan leaves, even if they are shading a bud site or two, because they will function as a source for the bud site (sink) and send its excess sugar to the bud. If you remove the fan leaf, the bud is already functioning as a sink, and so will have to get the rest of the sugar it needs from a different fan leaf on the plant (different source required), meaning a different sink is now getting less than it was because it is sharing its sugar supply from its own fan leaf. . . . this kind of sharing and relocating of sugar pathways takes extra energy in itself, and is not beneficial even if the bud site is no longer being shaded and can produce slightly more sugar on its own from the small bud leaves.

In conclusion, remove old fan leaves especially if they are no longer receiving any direct light. Try to maintain as many sources on the plant as possible by getting as much light and air flow to the newer mature fan leaves as possible. Remove any very low sinks that are far away from any strong sources because they will generate almost no photosynthate on their own, along with drawing photosynthate away from other sinks that are more local to the source leaves higher on the plant. And don't worry if your bud leaves are shaded, because they are sinks anyways, so the plant is pumping all the excess sugar from local fan leaves to the nearest/strongest sinks it can find (your buds)!!

PetFlora · Mar 24, 2013

Interesting argument. I intuit that due to my hydro=methods, fan leafs are less important- was not aware they can be counterproductive. I remove all primary leafs below the second node. I also run supplemental lights ~ 8" below the canopy

natro.hydro · Mar 24, 2013

/\ that guys paper needs to be a sticky on here. really tired of getting called a retard who knows it all (oxymoron anyone lol) good to know im not killing her and her yield when i do defoliate as i have been told time and time again that i am, never bought into it much, i am guilty of pullin some higher ones that might not have been sinks yet but have done worse in the hopes of increasing yield....

hyroot · Mar 24, 2013

The only defoliation I do is when I wash my face. Beat you to the bad joke chron

PSUAGRO. · Mar 24, 2013

guod said:
I see Led, so i´m inda grow

...hope.. your plants will not ! explode !
.
.
.... Make it Snow

Thank you Sir............and I know you really hate a mostly non led grow :eyesmoke:

just suffer through it friend.

The Dawg said:
Brother Psuagro Have You Ever Considered Defoliation To Increase Your Yields?Below Is A Copy Of A Student Studying For His Masters In Horticulture You Might Find It Interesting Reading And If Ya Like I Can Pm Ya His Entire Thread.But If Ya Want To Keep Your Head In The Sand And Grow 80's Style Well Hell Thats Up To You.Im Subbed Up For Your Grow As Always Brother Peace And Some Likem Shaved And Some Likem Hairy

First of all, you will need to understand the concept of Source vs. Sink within a plant. Pretty self explanatory, a source is any part of the plant that generates more photosynthate (sugar) than it requires for growth, and a sink is any part of the plant that requires more photosynthate than it can produce (or is producing). What is key to understand with this is that a plant tissue can change from sink, to source, and back to sink all as part of the plants natural process. For example, a newly forming leaf (fan leaf or bud leaf) is always going to be a sink, requiring more sugar to grow than it is currently producing from photosynthesis. . . but once that leaf has reached close to its mature size, it is producing much more sugar than it requires because it is hardly growing at that point. . . .and then again as that leaf becomes older and cells start to get older, the chlorophyll will actually lose effeciency and although the leaf may still look green and healthy, it is no longer generating more photosynthate than it requires to stay alive, and therefore older leaves become sinks again!

There are also parts of the plant which will almost always be sinks. Those are things like the roots (obviously no way of producing photosynthate, but still require it), the flowers on most plants because most flowers contain very little to no chlorophyll compared to a leaf, and seeds are always going to be sinks (the strongest sink).

The important reason I am explaining the Source vs. Sink relationship is because when you have too many sinks and not enough sources, your yield goes down and the overall vigor of your plant is reduced. So to maximize yield and sugar content in the final product (the buds), growers should try to eliminate other sinks as much as possible, while maintaining as many strong sources as they can without risking poor airflow or reduced efficiency with too much shading.

Keeping all this in mind, you can guess that a leaf which is receiving less light (heavily shaded) is most likely going to be functioning as a sink in the plant, drawing sugar away from other sinks that you may be more concerned about such as the buds. Removing leaves above the shaded leaf may give it more light, and maybe enough to start generating more sugar than it needs, but the lower down the leaf, the sooner it will be past its highest efficiency and the closer it is to becoming a sink permanently because of photosynthetic efficiency loss. Therefore, I tend to remove older fan leaves (less efficient) first before I go removing mature newer leaves higher up on the stems because they are more efficient.

Now, once you have removed any leaves that are past their prime, you may still have some fan leaves shading other bud sites, which in cannabis do produce their own smaller bud leaves. The larger fan leaves are MUCH more efficient at producing photosynthate than the smaller bud leaves, and because they tend to be more exposed to air flow they will also transpire more, meaning they help more water and nutrients move through the plant compared to bud leaves which have much less surface area and transpire/photosynthesize much less. So, that means it is better to keep large fan leaves, even if they are shading a bud site or two, because they will function as a source for the bud site (sink) and send its excess sugar to the bud. If you remove the fan leaf, the bud is already functioning as a sink, and so will have to get the rest of the sugar it needs from a different fan leaf on the plant (different source required), meaning a different sink is now getting less than it was because it is sharing its sugar supply from its own fan leaf. . . . this kind of sharing and relocating of sugar pathways takes extra energy in itself, and is not beneficial even if the bud site is no longer being shaded and can produce slightly more sugar on its own from the small bud leaves.

In conclusion, remove old fan leaves especially if they are no longer receiving any direct light. Try to maintain as many sources on the plant as possible by getting as much light and air flow to the newer mature fan leaves as possible. Remove any very low sinks that are far away from any strong sources because they will generate almost no photosynthate on their own, along with drawing photosynthate away from other sinks that are more local to the source leaves higher on the plant. And don't worry if your bud leaves are shaded, because they are sinks anyways, so the plant is pumping all the excess sugar from local fan leaves to the nearest/strongest sinks it can find (your buds)!!

Yeah his horticultural degree is from where?? Either way it's a cute theory but I tend to follow FACTS over a thesis paper^^^lol. Every large scale commercial farmer DOESN'T defoliate their food crops(CORN, grape, citrus,nuts,etc etc.) why??? because they use methods(and chem ferts

) that give them the HIGHEST yields per acre!! You know I was involved in the PA wine industry for almost a decade DAWG and no I wasn't growing in the eighties ........20__ grad from PSU( BS AG business) and took some general Hort/bot classes and barely passed TBH

.....which doesn't mean shit really, I just don't see any Facts that disputes the current methods as NOT the most productive...

Show me one study where defoliation INCREASES yields.....I'll wait........oh here is some recent kid that learned this the hard way:

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/632476-my-defoliated-vs-non-defoliated.html#post8801299

We are officially even on highjacking each others threads now...........

PetFlora said:
Interesting argument. I intuit that due to my hydro=methods, fan leafs are less important- was not aware they can be counterproductive. I remove all primary leafs below the second node. I also run supplemental lights ~ 8" below the canopy

No! don't remove GREEN leaves ever.............

hyroot said:
The only defoliation I do is when I wash my face. Beat you to the bad joke chron

Chron's jokes are funnier...........lol

Okay so after three days both girls broke through..................got lucky

.......cups removed and we start this grow at 24/0 light schedule. Another thing which is counterproductive is transplanting :shock:

=== yep , begin and end your grow with the same container if you can! this also has been proven time and time again.

......be safe and happy growing RIU

jubiare · Mar 24, 2013

PSUAGRO. said:
Thank you Sir............and I know you really hate a mostly non led grow just suffer through it friend.

Yeah count two hihihi!
I'd rather enjoy your grow when for "yourself" or actually for"the community" to be honest!
Nevertheless, the entertainment will be there as always...
greetings and best of luck!
Looking forward to details on the old school organics approach!

pacificarage · Mar 24, 2013

Nice!
I'm subbed for sure, man!

Testing LED pontoon+induction system==Old school organic grow for TESLA:)

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