Super soil is good. But is it really the best?

Ccoastal

Active Member
gotta laugh when a grower says they dont have patience, you must really be walking in circles for 2 months waiting to harvest

Ccoastal
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
You wont have to play the waiting game if you have a few batches cooking at the same time.. The stuff is good to "cook" for up to 12 months.. Use one batch and replace.. By the time you need the 2nd batch the soil will be ready to use..Super Soil is a big resin producer too you can tell when you smoke it...
I hear what you're saying but I keep thinking trashcans full of soil and invisioning a wall with 6 trashcans full of soil and staring at them for a month.

Can you use Sunshine Advanced with this charge or do you need to use Soil?
 

BeaverHuntr

Well-Known Member
I hear what you're saying but I keep thinking trashcans full of soil and invisioning a wall with 6 trashcans full of soil and staring at them for a month.

Can you use Sunshine Advanced with this charge or do you need to use Soil?
So just keep doing what you are doing while the soil cooks dude..Envision a wall with 6 trashcans containing some of the best organic soil designed to grow some high resin producing cannabis. Using Sunshine mix? I dont know the answer to that because I never tried it and havent read a thread about someone substituting sunshine mix.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Fastest and cheapest: No-till. Re-use the soil. Plant as soon as you chop the previous plant. Leave the root ball- it will be digested promptly once dead. Google "No-Till Living Soil" and you'll see some amazing grow logs.

You'll find this to be the cheapest, fastest and best soil method. Horticulture experts don't buy Roots. Horticulture experts don't buy a lot of stuff stoners buy. It's marketing. You have locally available top dressing that beats the heck out of bottled, "organic" or not.

Stick to EWC, and less on AACT.
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
Fastest and cheapest: No-till. Re-use the soil. Plant as soon as you chop the previous plant. Leave the root ball- it will be digested promptly once dead. Google "No-Till Living Soil" and you'll see some amazing grow logs.

You'll find this to be the cheapest, fastest and best soil method. Horticulture experts don't buy Roots. Horticulture experts don't buy a lot of stuff stoners buy. It's marketing. You have locally available top dressing that beats the heck out of bottled, "organic" or not.

Stick to EWC, and less on AACT.
I don't disagree. This is already what we do exactly using Sunshine Advanced. We have been reusing the same stuff for over a year now and its just fine. We do rinse it by flushing the flowering plants pretty well but after that we just innoculate with a ton of mychorizae, add some EWC and pop some transplant in it for next batch.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
That is very cool Lucius. Here's something to keep in mind.

When the plant is mature, so is the microbial universe in your soil. Cations and Anions are sequestered. Plant Enzymes also. Bacteria / Fungus ratios are just the way the plant wants them. Miles of fungal networking is in place. It's excellent and getting more perfect with each passing week.

When you chop the plant, the roots die off, and many of the the microbes will go dormant if no living root system is discovered. When you leave the root ball alone and don't rinse / flush, you also leave the efficient microbial universe in tact. When you introduce a new seed or clone into the same pail, the efficient and existing microbial network will immediately plug into the new plant and swarm it, and protect it. The old root ball will be composted completely and stored for the new plant.

We enjoy working in the soil, but we should leave it alone once it's doing it's thing. My best piece of advice for amendments is make your own worm castings in a smart pot in your basement. Turn your food scraps into the best soil amendment there is. Vermicompost has been lab-proven many times to give the soil and plant huge immune system support. Recent lab testing shows that there is also huge insecticidal assistance with vermicompost also. http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/entomology/cardoza Assuming it's quality and fresh. Make your own, all it costs is a $15 Thirty gallon smart pot
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
That is very cool Lucius. Here's something to keep in mind.

When the plant is mature, so is the microbial universe in your soil. Cations and Anions are sequestered. Plant Enzymes also. Bacteria / Fungus ratios are just the way the plant wants them. Miles of fungal networking is in place. It's excellent and getting more perfect with each passing week.

When you chop the plant, the roots die off, and many of the the microbes will go dormant if no living root system is discovered. When you leave the root ball alone and don't rinse / flush, you also leave the efficient microbial universe in tact. When you introduce a new seed or clone into the same pail, the efficient and existing microbial network will immediately plug into the new plant and swarm it, and protect it. The old root ball will be composted completely and stored for the new plant.

We enjoy working in the soil, but we should leave it alone once it's doing it's thing. My best piece of advice for amendments is make your own worm castings in a smart pot in your basement. Turn your food scraps into the best soil amendment there is. Vermicompost has been lab-proven many times to give the soil and plant huge immune system support. Recent lab testing shows that there is also huge insecticidal assistance with vermicompost also. http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/entomology/cardoza Assuming it's quality and fresh. Make your own, all it costs is a $15 Thirty gallon smart pot
Agree. If I grew in a home environment I would totally do that too.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
So you're an outdoor farmer? Sorry for being unfamiliar. It does my heart good to hear you growing so naturally.
 
That is very cool Lucius. Here's something to keep in mind.

When the plant is mature, so is the microbial universe in your soil. Cations and Anions are sequestered. Plant Enzymes also. Bacteria / Fungus ratios are just the way the plant wants them. Miles of fungal networking is in place. It's excellent and getting more perfect with each passing week.

When you chop the plant, the roots die off, and many of the the microbes will go dormant if no living root system is discovered. When you leave the root ball alone and don't rinse / flush, you also leave the efficient microbial universe in tact. When you introduce a new seed or clone into the same pail, the efficient and existing microbial network will immediately plug into the new plant and swarm it, and protect it. The old root ball will be composted completely and stored for the new plant.

We enjoy working in the soil, but we should leave it alone once it's doing it's thing. My best piece of advice for amendments is make your own worm castings in a smart pot in your basement. Turn your food scraps into the best soil amendment there is. Vermicompost has been lab-proven many times to give the soil and plant huge immune system support. Recent lab testing shows that there is also huge insecticidal assistance with vermicompost also. http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/entomology/cardoza Assuming it's quality and fresh. Make your own, all it costs is a $15 Thirty gallon smart pot
Can you explain how you are making your own worm castings with a 30 gal smart pot? Is the basement necessary? I clicked on the link you posted but i didn't find any specific info there. Thanks :)
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I have a 30 gallon Geo Pot (fabric pot like a Smart Pot). On a raised 2x4 platform, with wire mesh (hardware cloth) on the top of the platform. So air gets under the fabric pot.

You could do this anywhere you get temps at or above 60F. My basement stays at 64F. Any room would work if warm.

The pot initially has a starting bed with compost, lava rock, whatever. Just follow any "How To Raise Worms" guide. I just use the fabric pot rather than a worm bin. I feed the worms Bokashi. A cup or two at a time buried at the edge of the pot. Allow the worms to come to the Bokashi, as it's acidic and they have to get used to it / let the Bokashi cool off.
 
I have a 30 gallon Geo Pot (fabric pot like a Smart Pot). On a raised 2x4 platform, with wire mesh (hardware cloth) on the top of the platform. So air gets under the fabric pot.

You could do this anywhere you get temps at or above 60F. My basement stays at 64F. Any room would work if warm.

The pot initially has a starting bed with compost, lava rock, whatever. Just follow any "How To Raise Worms" guide. I just use the fabric pot rather than a worm bin. I feed the worms Bokashi. A cup or two at a time buried at the edge of the pot. Allow the worms to come to the Bokashi, as it's acidic and they have to get used to it / let the Bokashi cool off.
Wow. Thank you Rrog. I will have to read more in to the Bokashi. Sounds very interesting
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
If everyone would get a smart pot or worm bin and make their own VermiCompost, the "organic" bottled ferts people would have no market. The worm castings can do it all and much more. Simple.

Combine with coconut water, barley sprout tea and Aloe, and you have an unbelievable mix. Full of compounds that keep insects away, both in the soil and in the leaves (Phyllosphere). Secondary metabolotes, plant enzymes, hormones, plant immune system boosters. It just goes on and on. Simple.

Instead of ACT, AACT or EM-1, just look to locally available BIM's. See my sig below for a link. By definition, the locally available microbes are the best suited for your grow. Not some bacterial mix that was nice in South Africa or Europe. YOUR MICROBES ARE BETTER and they're free...
 

BeaverHuntr

Well-Known Member
If everyone would get a smart pot or worm bin and make their own VermiCompost, the "organic" bottled ferts people would have no market. The worm castings can do it all and much more. Simple.

Combine with coconut water, barley sprout tea and Aloe, and you have an unbelievable mix. Full of compounds that keep insects away, both in the soil and in the leaves (Phyllosphere). Secondary metabolotes, plant enzymes, hormones, plant immune system boosters. It just goes on and on. Simple.

Instead of ACT, AACT or EM-1, just look to locally available BIM's. See my sig below for a link. By definition, the locally available microbes are the best suited for your grow. Not some bacterial mix that was nice in South Africa or Europe. YOUR MICROBES ARE BETTER and they're free...

I want to make my own worm bin in the near future but will they be able to survive the desert temps in Phoenix. I'm not putting a worm bin in my home but its super dry out here ( like 15% R/H) and gets up to 115 degrees on summer days.. Summer starts in May and Ends in Oct over here..lol

And you are saying that we wont have to use ACT , AACT teas ??
 

ru4r34l

Well-Known Member
If everyone would get a smart pot or worm bin and make their own VermiCompost, the "organic" bottled ferts people would have no market. The worm castings can do it all and much more. Simple.

Combine with coconut water, barley sprout tea and Aloe, and you have an unbelievable mix. Full of compounds that keep insects away, both in the soil and in the leaves (Phyllosphere). Secondary metabolotes, plant enzymes, hormones, plant immune system boosters. It just goes on and on. Simple.

Instead of ACT, AACT or EM-1, just look to locally available BIM's. See my sig below for a link. By definition, the locally available microbes are the best suited for your grow. Not some bacterial mix that was nice in South Africa or Europe. YOUR MICROBES ARE BETTER and they're free...
This is very true and works across all products in virtually every industry.

regards,
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Beaver- I don't use AACT. I use the compost in AACT, but just don't run it through a vortex for 36 hours. I only use VermiCompost now.

There are different Botanical Teas you can use. Comfrey, Nettle, Barley, Alfalfa, etc. All are good soaked for a day, then use the water as a soil drench or foliar. Then throw the plant remains in the worm bin. You can add a bubbler to this tea just to keep it aerobic, but I'm not looking to amplify the bacteria, fungi or protozoa in a vortex brewer, etc.

I'm not thinking the worms are going to survive in the desert outside. They'll stay in the bin or bag as long as there's food and not too much or too little water. They don't smell. Mine is in the basement, but could go in a closet etc. I would encourage you to see if there's a spot you could have them that's not so inhospitable.
 
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