SUPER CROPP OUTDOOR.

Esteban Soto

Active Member
Hi guys I've always LST my plants, indoor or outdoor, but now I wanna try something different that's why I have some question on super cropping.
Where in the shoot do I super crop?
Can I do it with my ladys?
Tips?IMG_0149.JPGIMG_0150.JPG IMG_0150.JPG
 

Mr.Moniker

Well-Known Member
You normally make bends in the taller shoots so when they are horizontal they are the same height as your shorter nodes, this was the whole plant get even light
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Hi guys I've always LST my plants, indoor or outdoor, but now I wanna try something different that's why I have some question on super cropping.
Where in the shoot do I super crop?
Can I do it with my ladys?
Tips?
They're in great shape to super-crop, I usually start earlier but just make sure you give them a couple of weeks to heal & settle before they start flowering.
Some pointers:
Don't go too close to the tops, bend at least 2-3 nodes below
I squeeze them between my thumb and finger, use my thumb nail as a place to score them slowly, squeeze the branch against my thumb nail and use my finger to slowly bend it over my thumbnail. You can go back & forth until you feel it give way in the direction you want it, but don't fully break it. Depends on strain and how flexible it is, I adjust based on the flexibility of the branch.
To be effective you need to keep that bend at 90 degrees or slightly more. They'll try to bounce back after a few hours, tie them if necessary.
IME, there's no need for a break, a bend in the stem is good enough to get new growth (just tape it if it breaks too much for about a week, then you can remove it)
Depending on the success you should get new growth pop up within a week or so and will start shooting straight up from the area where the bend is (after 4-7 days you'll see a knot develop)

I marked some potential areas where you could SC, you can do one or all, depending on your comfort level. Bend in the direction of the bubble's shown and you should end up with some new shoots going up from the bends and turn into a ball. The top above the bends will stay there for a while, then eventually bend the top up towards the light. It's quite productive, I've done several strains and haven't had any issues. Some take longer to recover, some shoot out more than others. If you start earlier, like when they're 8-10", they're typically more flexible and easier to do.
 

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Esteban Soto

Active Member
i really appreciate you taking time to do this! I'm very thankful, I'm from Chile and we are in summer so is outdoor. I'll do it and upload pictures to see how is coming through, thanks again!
 

Esteban Soto

Active Member
They're in great shape to super-crop, I usually start earlier but just make sure you give them a couple of weeks to heal & settle before they start flowering.
Some pointers:
Don't go too close to the tops, bend at least 2-3 nodes below
I squeeze them between my thumb and finger, use my thumb nail as a place to score them slowly, squeeze the branch against my thumb nail and use my finger to slowly bend it over my thumbnail. You can go back & forth until you feel it give way in the direction you want it, but don't fully break it. Depends on strain and how flexible it is, I adjust based on the flexibility of the branch.
To be effective you need to keep that bend at 90 degrees or slightly more. They'll try to bounce back after a few hours, tie them if necessary.
IME, there's no need for a break, a bend in the stem is good enough to get new growth (just tape it if it breaks too much for about a week, then you can remove it)
Depending on the success you should get new growth pop up within a week or so and will start shooting straight up from the area where the bend is (after 4-7 days you'll see a knot develop)

I marked some potential areas where you could SC, you can do one or all, depending on your comfort level. Bend in the direction of the bubble's shown and you should end up with some new shoots going up from the bends and turn into a ball. The top above the bends will stay there for a while, then eventually bend the top up towards the light. It's quite productive, I've done several strains and haven't had any issues. Some take longer to recover, some shoot out more than others. If you start earlier, like when they're 8-10", they're typically more flexible and easier to do.
What about the first picture, you mind pointing where I should SC? thanks!
 

bf80255

Well-Known Member
They're in great shape to super-crop, I usually start earlier but just make sure you give them a couple of weeks to heal & settle before they start flowering.
Some pointers:
Don't go too close to the tops, bend at least 2-3 nodes below
I squeeze them between my thumb and finger, use my thumb nail as a place to score them slowly, squeeze the branch against my thumb nail and use my finger to slowly bend it over my thumbnail. You can go back & forth until you feel it give way in the direction you want it, but don't fully break it. Depends on strain and how flexible it is, I adjust based on the flexibility of the branch.
To be effective you need to keep that bend at 90 degrees or slightly more. They'll try to bounce back after a few hours, tie them if necessary.
IME, there's no need for a break, a bend in the stem is good enough to get new growth (just tape it if it breaks too much for about a week, then you can remove it)
Depending on the success you should get new growth pop up within a week or so and will start shooting straight up from the area where the bend is (after 4-7 days you'll see a knot develop)

I marked some potential areas where you could SC, you can do one or all, depending on your comfort level. Bend in the direction of the bubble's shown and you should end up with some new shoots going up from the bends and turn into a ball. The top above the bends will stay there for a while, then eventually bend the top up towards the light. It's quite productive, I've done several strains and haven't had any issues. Some take longer to recover, some shoot out more than others. If you start earlier, like when they're 8-10", they're typically more flexible and easier to do.
do you really think the benefits of super cropping are worth the plants down time during recovery?
please dont be biased im just mentioning it because its something I did early as a grower and soon realized it wasnt really doing all that much.
 

rob333

Well-Known Member
Hi guys I've always LST my plants, indoor or outdoor, but now I wanna try something different that's why I have some question on super cropping.
Where in the shoot do I super crop?
Can I do it with my ladys?
Tips?View attachment 3317676View attachment 3317677 View attachment 3317677
i'm the man for supercropping just grab the stems and work on them by pinching when u hear a crunch fold the main nod over the trick is to bend away fron the center of the plant so u can get the light clean into her gut itr will help strangthen the nods u just bend up also let more light into her
 

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rob333

Well-Known Member
do you really think the benefits of super cropping are worth the plants down time during recovery?
please dont be biased im just mentioning it because its something I did early as a grower and soon realized it wasnt really doing all that much.
its tends to slow it right down but i find were the bends are and if u get right into it like me not just making one bend i cover the whole plant but were the nugets are i find they seem to be alot denser also they tend to sweat crystals
 

gR33nDav3l0l

Well-Known Member
The branch will get fatter on each side of the bend or pinch, you can do it in different places of the same branch.
 

j smoker

Active Member
Hi there i grew in pots last year in nz I would suggest bigger pots, when i harvested mine they were quite root bound and i used a lot bigger then that
 
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