check the history books about a lake that burped(after earth quake) co2 in china and killed a whole village.............why do u think they tel u smog warnings that is Co2 warnings anything over 700 ppm is a red day
I looked into it, it sound like you are talking about Lake Nyos in 1986. Heres an article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Nyos The problem is it doesnt say the concentration. Also I think you are a bit confused when it comes to smog. CO2 is just one of the constituents of smog. Ground-level ozone, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide and carbon monoxide are all constituents that are toxic in MUCH lower concentrations. For example 30.4 ppm for carbon monoxide and only 1.24 ppm for sulfur dioxide! Yikes! So when you say 700ppm of smog is unhealthy, I dont doubt you, but for the purposes of indoor growing we are talking about 1500 ppm of pure CO2 from a bottle or a generator which is perfectly safe for humans.
OK, to the OP: I've been thinking about this a bit and just wanted to bring something to your attention. What are you going to do with all the dirt you dig out of this hole? Lets do some math: We'll use a depth of 12 feet for the purpose of this exercise. 16x18x12=3,456 cubic feet. Divided by 27 to get cubic yards=128 cubic yards. That is the volume of dirt in it's in-situ or "bank" density. If you've ever dug a hole and filled it back in, you know that dirt swells when you dig it up. Standard soil will swell 20-30% when dug up. So multiply your 128 cu. yd by 1.25 and you are talking about 160 cu yd of dirt you need to covertly move away from your site... To put this in perspective a tri-axle dump truck holds about 30 cu yd. Not exactly the amount you can dump out by the pocket full in the yard shawshank redemption style...
this was mentioned in one of dude's several other threads on the same subject. sounds like he's planning on using wood and joint compound (lol), cause apparently concrete is "unnecessary
You didn't answer my question...so does it have to be a solid 6 ft all out of could I use the metal tube I said I my last post
Dude I'm so sick of you negitive ass people that keep assuming shit. I'm not using only wood and joint compound I'm just not going to listevery fucking step in waterproofing, and no shit the hole is big that was a quality obversavtion I had no idea, that's why I'm using excavator to dig it.
How much are they? I have no idea how I'd get one to my house without all the neighbors like wtf.
Explain exactly how I should run the outpipeof the sump pump. It cant be seen or that totally negates all this other shit I'm doing
Thanks for that I will definately check it out. The original plan was to shore the walls andthen build the dwelling inside of the shored up then once finished remove the shoring and let it fill in.
. 324x68=392 cu ft. Divide by 27 to get cu yd. Thats an extra 14.5 cu yds. Its actually more than that because i didnt account for the extra bits in the corners. Lets call it 18 cu yds for you angle of repose. Multiply by that by your swell factor of 1.25=22.5 cu yd. Add that to 128 and you are looking at a little of 150 cu yds of dirt to move.
u can use a man hole system to get into the room ...................just where ever u have it opening too u need a few plants around it to mask the lering smells when u open and leave the rooms / move stuff up and down the pathway out
Well the surveyor is out of the question, and I am going to do the standard angle of repose, but the soil is very thick and damp and holds together well...typically would that call for a bigger or small A.o.r.? (Depth will be be ~14ft btw, so ill have to expand on ur estimation a tad)Now you are on the right page. The steepness of the slope is known as the angle of repose. In a perfect world, you would have a geotechnical engineer and a surveyor come in, shoot some points and dig a test pit or bore out a core sample. He or she would give you a soil report and specify the minimum angle of repose. If this is not possible use the standard conservative estimate, one and a half times the depth. So 12x1.5=18 feet. Thats 18 feet back from the edges, not from the center. So if you want the bottom of the hole to be 16x18 the top, add 36' to each dimension, the top of your hole would need to be 52x54. If you only wanted the bottom of the hole to be 12x14, the top would have to be 48x50. These numbers are based on a depth of 12'. Now that you have some safe working dimensions, you can go out with some stakes and string and mark out your excavation. Measure corner to corner to ensure squareness.
So now lets figure out how much volume that is. For a 16x18x12 hole we figured out earlier 128 cu yds. (not including the angle of repose) If you remember from geometry class the area of a right triangle is 1.5(basexheight). 1.5(18x12)=324 sq feet. This is just the cross sectional area of your angle of repose. Multiply 324 sq ft by the number of lineal feet, which is simply the perimeter of the bottom of the hole, 68 (16+16+18+1
There are formulas out there that you can apply your 150 cu yd volume to in order to figure out how long it will take you to dig the hole, but without knowing specifics of the excavator such as the bucket volume, and your personal cycle time (your skills/experience with an excavator) its just a shot in the dark. And that would just give you the amount of time it would take you to excavate, not getting rid of/spreading the dirt.