Spots developing on all plants under same conditions

W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
Another question I started training one of my plants by bending. My pot isn’t really wide enough lol so the main stem is pushing against. What are the dangers of that?
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
You don't to use nutrients if you use enough of that soil. Transplant to a much bigger pot using same soil. Water when dry. Dark leaves are a good indication that it's getting too much nitrogen by way of that additional nutrients you're using. Put the plant in a 5 to 10 gallon pot. 12/12 lighting when it's around 2.5 feet tall.
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
polishpollack said:
You don't to use nutrients if you use enough of that soil. Transplant to a much bigger pot using same soil. Water when dry. Dark leaves are a good indication that it's getting too much nitrogen by way of that additional nutrients you're using. Put the plant in a 5 to 10 gallon pot. 12/12 lighting when it's around 2.5 feet tall.
Click to expand...
So you think the spots are nutrient OD? And I’m sorry but literally everyone else has told me different about the notes. They say after like a month the soil gets dry. My other plants are in flower because they are older.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
If you want to listen to "everyone" go ahead. What I see is you have dark green leaves, which tends to indicate too much nitrogen. The plant is small a nd doesn't look like it's been growing for more than one month. You have left it in a small pot when you should transplant. You're using a soil known to have nutrients and are adding more to a small amount of soil. That's what I see in your post. But go ahead and do what you want.
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
polishpollack said:
If you want to listen to "everyone" go ahead. What I see is you have dark green leaves, which tends to indicate too much nitrogen. The plant is small a nd doesn't look like it's been growing for more than one month. You have left it in a small pot when you should transplant. You're using a soil known to have nutrients and are adding more to a small amount of soil. That's what I see in your post. But go ahead and do what you want.
Click to expand...
Lol yeah you may be right about that plant but my others don’t match that description. They’re in flower in bigger pots and still have that condition
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
So they do match after all? If you have plants that have the same look then they probably are a match. Are you feeding those plants extra fert too?
 
Tangerine_

Tangerine_

Well-Known Member
WindblownSquash said:
here’s a pic of the condition Thank you for any help. Growing in FFHF. Using Fox Farm nutes.
Click to expand...
The pic isn't all that clear but that plant pic along with the info you posted in other threads, points to PH/root isssue and your inputs. That plant isn't presenting N tox. Its presenting P def. (dark bluish green leaves with blotching starting to form) Similar to N tox but the other symptoms aren't present.
My best guess - this is pH and/or temp related. Zinc and Iron abundance can lock up P but I looked at the GA of FFBB and FFGB and the micro numbers are OK. There's no Cal listed though. Something to consider.
Plants can often have trouble up-taking P. A good inoculation of bennies would help with that.

A little more info and some of the seasoned growers could give you a more concise answer. Fertigating an organic base with mineral salts can be a tricky.

Nutrient used along EC/PPMs
Water source (starting water PPMS too if not using RO)
Day/Night temps and RH
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
Tangerine_ said:
The pic isn't all that clear but that plant pic along with the info you posted in other threads, points to PH/root isssue and your inputs. That plant isn't presenting N tox. Its presenting P def. (dark bluish green leaves with blotching starting to form) Similar to N tox but the other symptoms aren't present.
My best guess - this is pH and/or temp related. Zinc and Iron abundance can lock up P but I looked at the GA of FFBB and FFGB and the micro numbers are OK. There's no Cal listed though. Something to consider.
Plants can often have trouble up-taking P. A good inoculation of bennies would help with that.

A little more info and some of the seasoned growers could give you a more concise answer. Fertigating an organic base with mineral salts can be a tricky.

Nutrient used along EC/PPMs
Water source (starting water PPMS too if not using RO)
Day/Night temps and RH
Click to expand...
I started adding cal-mag to my solution i will see what happens.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Squash, when you say you're using FF nutes, can you be more specific? Exactly which ones, how much, and how often. It helps if you give all the details so people can help you better. Give your day night temps too.
 
Last edited:
Teag

Teag

Well-Known Member
There is a 12/12 light schedule tag...Are you trying to flower? I think Tangerine is spot on.
 
f series

f series

Well-Known Member
I'll post some pH fucked plants, didn't check the pH once ROFL they look like shit, or maybe they need nutes, who knows, ha.
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
polishpollack said:
Squash, when you say you're using FF nutes, can you be more specific? Exactly which ones, how much, and how often. It helps if you give all the details so people can help you better. Give your day night temps too.
Click to expand...
Well I have the 3 classic grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom.
I have some in flowering that get watered once a week or maybe even more especially since I started the 12/12. I was giving them like a cap full of grow big and big bloom in a gallon at each watering. Most recently if I water the big ones I’ll put tiger bloom and big bloom in a gallon (a capfull) and what I eye as 3 mL (so basically just a little bit) of cal mag in a gallon. They are in flower. The big ones seem to not be drinking water as well.

the small one now gets watered with the grow big but not big bloom since it’s soil is fresh. I have also added cal mag since.. The temp stays around 70 degrees. RH stays around 30. pH seems to be between 6.5 and 7.0 one of my big ones is easy to overwater and will show over watering symptoms like curling upward of the tips. Recently 10% of the tops curl upward(like a taco) 10% of them curl downward like N toxic but the rest show no ailments
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Since your soil probably has P in it and Grow Big certainly does, NPK 6-4-4, it's probably not P def. If anything I still say the plant is getting too much of something. Happy Frog, if that's what you're using has bat guano said to be high in nitrogen and phosphorus. Adding more to small containers might not be a good idea, unless you're certain you have to. It looks like you've been adding extra bottle nutrients all along without being certain you should. If there's P in the soil from the factory and P in the fert your giving, then I doubt if it's P def as mentioned. Anyone can argue that the P def is caused by bad pH or what have you, but I'm thinking that pH is less of an issue than all the fert that the roots are getting. For the small one pictured, I would put the soil to the test and transplant to a 5 gallon bucket with HF soil, and do nothing else, just water. Use a container that will drain, and see what happens. If at some point you see the leaves go light green or develop some spotting, maybe a dose of fert is a good idea. Just be careful not to over do it. It's easy to get caught up in ferting way too much as people do that here very often. They give fert every water or every other water when there's probably no need and no proof the plant needs that much. I don't know how people got the idea of feed, water, feed. If you're using soil much of the fert you're using will stay in the soil for a while. Perhaps weeks. Over ferting is the most common reason why people ruin their plants as there's no clear instructions on how often to use them. This leaves the door open to mistakes.
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
polishpollack said:
Since your soil probably has P in it and Grow Big certainly does, NPK 6-4-4, it's probably not P def. If anything I still say the plant is getting too much of something. Happy Frog, if that's what you're using has bat guano said to be high in nitrogen and phosphorus. Adding more to small containers might not be a good idea, unless you're certain you have to. It looks like you've been adding extra bottle nutrients all along without being certain you should. If there's P in the soil from the factory and P in the fert your giving, then I doubt if it's P def as mentioned. Anyone can argue that the P def is caused by bad pH or what have you, but I'm thinking that pH is less of an issue than all the fert that the roots are getting. For the small one pictured, I would put the soil to the test and transplant to a 5 gallon bucket with HF soil, and do nothing else, just water. Use a container that will drain, and see what happens. If at some point you see the leaves go light green or develop some spotting, maybe a dose of fert is a good idea. Just be careful not to over do it. It's easy to get caught up in ferting way too much as people do that here very often. They give fert every water or every other water when there's probably no need and no proof the plant needs that much. I don't know how people got the idea of feed, water, feed. If you're using soil much of the fert you're using will stay in the soil for a while. Perhaps weeks. Over ferting is the most common reason why people ruin their plants as there's no clear instructions on how often to use them. This leaves the door open to mistakes.
Click to expand...
Yeah I basically grew them for 2 months with no fert then started ferting them. They did well initially and there is plenty of new growth but all plants have at least a few burned tips And the spotting. I transplanted the small one into a 3 gallon bucket and I used my “light” feeding solution I mentioned above but from now on I will just water with cal mag.
I have also posted a pic of my biggest one that is starting to flower and it’s ailment.

Damn these plants look good in sunlight!!

Also on showcase is the change from using ferts to not using ferts. The bottom of stem is red and fades to light green. All of that is new growth after I started using ferts, controlling the temp more, normalizing light period, and water effectively. This plant in particular is very susceptible to overwatering.
 

Attachments

polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Go easy on the calmag. You really want to see how much of that soil is useful, how long you can grow a plant without feeding it. Just remember that you need to transplant to make the most of the soil. Use large containers.
 
W

WindblownSquash

Active Member
polishpollack said:
Go easy on the calmag. You really want to see how much of that soil is useful, how long you can grow a plant without feeding it. Just remember that you need to transplant to make the most of the soil. Use large containers.
Click to expand...
That container is 4 gallons. I don’t have that much space so that’s all it gets. It will need to adapt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top