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Spider Mites! Help!

Discussion in 'Marijuana Plant Problems' started by StonerPuppy69, Dec 10, 2009.


    fallinghigh Well-Known Member

    Is that mite x a pyrethrin spray. The way I look at it is the plants dont mind it and I dont have to be organically human to the fucking bugs I am going to kill, I mean I am killing them anyways so if karmas going to get me she will do it rather I drown them in oil or spray them with poision.

    On the other hand I do like the idea of ladybugs and potion had some mantis this year. The Prob I always have with laddy bugs, is they fly into the light and kill themselves.

    I am going to scope out your thread right now to see if you got a cool tube, or enclosed fixtures I got open a air vertical bulb.

    woodsmantoker Well-Known Member

    Spider Mites

    by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar 1 (11/06) Quick Facts...

    • Spider mites are common plant pests. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf loss and even plant death.
    • Natural enemies include small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips.
    • One reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides that kill their natural predators.
    • Irrigation and moisture management can be important cultural controls for spider mites.
    [​IMG] Figure 1: Honeylocust spider mites, with eggs.

    Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Injury is caused as they feed, bruising the cells with their small, whiplike mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance.
    Following severe infestations, leaves become discolored, producing an unthrifty gray or bronze look to the plant. Leaves and needles may ultimately become scorched and drop prematurely. Spider mites frequently kill plants or cause serious stress to them.
    Spider mites (Family: Tetranychidae) are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of insects that also includes spiders, ticks, daddy-longlegs and scorpions. Spider mites are small and often difficult to see with the unaided eye. Their colors range from red and brown to yellow and green, depending on the species of spider mite and seasonal changes in their appearance.
    Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations. This webbing gives the mites and their eggs some protection from natural enemies and environmental fluctuations. Webbing produced by spiders, as well as fluff produced by cottonwoods, often is confused with the webbing of spider mites.
    The most important spider mite is the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing.
    Evergreens tend to host other mites, notably the spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis) on spruce and juniper, Oligonychus subnudus on pines, and Platytetranychus libocedri on arborvitae and juniper. Honeylocust, particularly those in drier sites, are almost invariably infested with the honeylocust spider mite (Platytetranychus multidigituli). Other mites may affect shade trees such as elm, mountain ash and oak.
    Another complex of mites is associated with turfgrass, including the clover mite and Banks grass mite. These are discussed separately in fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass. Clover mites also are the common mite that enters homes in fall and spring, sometimes creating significant nuisance problems in the process.
    [​IMG] Figure 2: Twospotted spider mites, with eggs.

    Life History and Habits

    Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems.
    There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."
    Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
    Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather.
    Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites.

    Biological Controls

    Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (Stethorus species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies.
    A great many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites. In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are Galendromus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus persimilis, Mesoseiulus longipes and Neoseiulus californicus. Although these have been successful in control of spider mites on interior plants, effective use outdoors has not been demonstrated in Colorado. Predatory mites often have fairly high requirements for humidity, which can be limiting. Most suppliers provide information regarding use of the predator mites that they carry.
    One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks.
    [​IMG] Figure 3: Twospotted spider mite injury to eggplant.

    [​IMG] Figure 4: "Spider mite destroyer" lady beetle. [​IMG] Figure 5: Minute pirate bug. Water Management

    Adequate watering of plants during dry conditions can limit the importance of drought stress on spider mite outbreaks. Periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water can physically remove and kill many mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
    Chemical Controls

    Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Table 1 includes a summary of pesticides that may be useful for managing spider mites.
    Control of Spider Mites on House Plants

    Control on house plants can be particularly frustrating. There generally are no biological controls and few effective chemical controls (primarily soaps and horticultural oils). When attempting control, treat all susceptible house plants at the same time. Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard severely infested plants. Periodically hose small plants in the sink or shower. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth. Reapply these treatments at one- to two-week intervals as long as populations persist.
    fallinghigh likes this.

    fallinghigh Well-Known Member

    I like this post, ty for your time

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    Sorry to hear about those 2 plants. Anytime good bud is lost it's a sad thing.

    After this infestation is gone you can feed the lady bugs every 3 to 4 weeks. Just go to your local tropical fish store and get some larvae, like blood worms. They shouldn't need much, just a few teaspoons of the live ones. Put some dirt in a dish and the larvae on top of the dirt, and spray them with sweet water. Also mist your plants with sweet water every on a regular basis for the lady bugs (and for your plant), you can use whatever sweetener you use on your plants to sweeten the water. Use small ammounts though.

    Check out my thread above to make sure you don't have any problems.
    Feel free to add to the post if you have anything you'd like to add.

    The thing I like best, other than the fact that they eat the eggs, is they prevent infestations which prevents any & all plant damage. Plus you never need to use anything on your plants that might screw with the taste.

    Best of luck & best of buds.

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    Not a pyrethin. Ingredients are Cornseed Oil, Clove Oil, Garlic Oil, Sorbitol, Oleic Acid, Dodecanoic Acid, Stearic Acid, Molasses, Sucrose, and Water. Just don't use it around the lady bugs, it may kill them too. Once the plants are dry it should be ok, just don't spray those plants with sweet water for a while as it may reactivate the Mite X

    It's organic to be safe for plants & people. You can spray your plants up until harvest.

    Mantis also might be a good idea. I never did any research on them though because I thought they might be a little big to be interested in Mites & Aphids. But if they eat those little buggers and don't mess with the plants, then they'd be just as good as lady bugs except on winged pests. I wouldn't know what to feed them though.

    If you don't have a closed hood I'd use some screening to keep the bugs off. In my thread I suggest to ues screening to cover your exhaust vent, portable A/C air intake, and any other place where you don't want the lady bugs to get into. Screening's pretty cheap at the hard ware stores, one small roll is more than enough for most grow rooms.

    kushRx Member

    i had spider mites once. used need during day perfectly fine, i would never EVER spray shit on at night specialy on buds thats just a horrible idea, spray during the day.. i got rid of em in 5 days from hardcore neem, i did suffer a lil over need damage but better than fuckin mites all in ur shit and takin over

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    If you read you'll see that I suggest he shouldn't spray the buds, just leaves (top & underside) stems, branches, soil, and run off trays.

    If I forgot to mention it, I appologize. But I think I might have said it.

    Oh, and I did forget to mention, when you spray turn off any humidifiers you might have going. It will help the plant dry faster.

    If neem is an oil and he's using HID, when he treats, it will burn his plants. It's an oil, and it will amplify the intesity of the light.

    Over neem damage? And you'd put that on buds then sell those buds to someone? With or without the lights on, that's just a bad idea. I drenched my plants in Mite X to the point that the plants drooped for a day. And no damage done to the plants, they were perky again in a day. And if you do get a little on the buds it shouldn't be too much of a problem. It may change the taste a bit, but it won't taste like insecticides or make anyone sick.

    1,500 lady bugs might do the job without any sprays though. Just put 90 or so on each of the plant's soil when they get there (they should be in sleep mode when they arrive, heat will wake them up and they'll wake up hungry & thirsty) and spray them real good with sweet water. That should make their wings sticky & keep them from flying for a couple of days too, and I would think that 90 hungry lady bugs crawling on each plant & temporarily grounded would be enough to kill off an infestation fairly quickly (1 to 3 days). If any 1 or 2 plants seem to have them extra badly you might want to put a little more on those plants.

    proheto8008 Well-Known Member

    I posted this on another thread the other day. THis stuff is the shit for spider mites. Its the only thing that they dont have a resistance against. One application and it wipes em out. I use it for prevention(been lucky and never had em) I do have a buddy who had em for a year and had to move to a new house. He got em at the new house and heard about mite-rid on here. he got some and they were all dead after two applications.

    This shit is no snake oil. its the real deal.


    here is some shit from the website. i guess its a derivative of neem.

    Spider mites destroy plant cells by sucking out their contents, and Mite-Rid works by providing a barrier which is harmless to the plant, but fatal to the mites. Some of the components of Mite-Rid are also absorbed by the plant and then suppress the life cycle of the mites. Mite-Rid uses a unique formula of botanical oils, including neem, garlic, eucalyptus plus surfactants to provide a protective barrier against many leaf eating pests, and most effectively, the Spider Mite.
    The main active ingredient, neem oil, contains a limonoid called azadirachtin which has steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) which interrupt the normal hormonal balance of mites, suppressing its reproductive cycle. The neem oil used in Mite-Rid is cold pressed, as only oil of this quality will contain these steroids.

    Mite-Rid is fully bio-degradable and is not toxic to animals and under normal use will not affect the plant's metabolism. Highly effective against two-spotted and red mites, Mite-Rid is also reporting success with Eriophyid mites such as the "Fuschia Gall Mite" which is endemic to parts of California and also known as the "Mendo" or "Mendocino mini". Mite-Rid comes in a concentrate form, and the 45ml bottle mixes with water to make 18 litres ( 32.7 pints) of mite killing spray.
    One thorough application is usualy enough, but heavy infestations may require two, as the tiny eggs can be a bit more resilient; so we recommend a second application in these cases.
    Get them before they get your plants!

    They say prevention is better than cure, and just a little Mite-Rid goes a long way to preventing mite infestation. A periodic spray with Mite-Rid is the best way to never see your plants suffering an attack of spider mites.
    Remember, when it's hot, and dry, mites are just a gentle breeze away from your plants, and they usually go undetected until they've multiplied to plague proportions. Just one spray every few weeks in the hottest season will protect your crop from this near invisible pest.
    Whether you're an indoor grower, greenhouse grower, hydroponic grower, or outdoor grower, sooner or later the mites will find you!

    Don't wait to see the damage,
    get them BEFORE they get your plants!


    StonerPuppy69 Member

    Ok ok ok...shame on me! I should have taken such a closer look at my girls!! The mites are so much worse than I thought. I ordered Mite X...then changed my mind to ladybugs. So I held off on the spray and put some ladybugs in there! I went through tonite and removed the leaves that had lots of eggs...but to my surprise I found webs and leaves that were covered with eggs and covered with adults! I immediately went through and removed just about every fan leaf. I think I'm going to release all the rest of my ladybugs in the morning when the lights go off. I can't even believe how fast this got out of control! I HATE SPIDER MITES!!! Before I put my other girls into the flowering room I'll be sterilizing it like a mother fucker. I don't ever want to run into this problem again! It feels like a plague! TOday is about day 2 of my ladybugs so I will keep updating.

    On the bright side...my colas are looking DANK NASTY. I had to tie up a few today because they're getting too heavy!! Hope they'll still be smokable though..

    And ps dannygreeneyes...Im a Miss..thanks =)

    dura72 Well-Known Member

    sulfur burner. think that'll fuck them. either buy it or make one, simple as fuck to make them. smells like a bitch though. gotta be better than dead plants though!

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    Sorry fot the mistake. My bad. (not a sexist, just that most women have some kind of fem reference in their name) Wont happen again.

    I've been doing more & more research on predator insects. After finding out everything I've found out, 1500 lady bugs is not enough to rid an infestation of 14 plants. You'd need at least 5 times that many and maybe more, but I do have some good news.

    I found an old school formula for killing the mites. Once the mite population is low enough, the lady bugs you have should take over. I think it's safe for lady bugs but not sure. On the bright side, if you kill the lady bugs, they're pretty cheap to replace.

    It's called Tabacco Juice and I found it on this thread http://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/216537-self-diagnose-your-plants.html I think you're gonna like it.

    Take 3 strong ciggeretes soak them over night in water
    Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add safer soap if you like to the mixture.
    (make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)
    It also says "Use some tobacco juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites."

    Also, to help you can lower the temp to around 70 if possible (makes them less active so they'll lay eggs slower), and increase the humidity as much as possible. Hi humidity kills em.

    If the Tobacco Juice kills off the lady bugs, you can add pest strips to help as well.

    If all else fails you can get Predator Mites. These are mites bred to be carnivorous so they will only eat the spider mites, not your plants. Once the spider mites are gone they'll die off from starvation. I haven't checked, but I imagine that some nurseries & grow stores will carry them.

    And once all is well, if you still have the lady bugs, or replace them if they die, they will keep an infestation from starting. I've gotten confirmation on this from several horticulturists & grow stores. Mites will not start a nest where predators are present.

    The reason 1500 isn't gonna be enough is because the lady bugs just can't eat as fast as the mites multiply.

    Sorry this is becoming such a pain in the but, the Tobacco juice should work though. And in the future the lady bugs will keep this from ever happening again.

    Good luck, and have a happy & mite free holiday. :)

    snutter Well-Known Member

    I'm not sure if any one else mentioned this, but BUG ASSASSIN is this shit. It kills mites dead! Eggs too. And it's relatively cheap and should be available at your local grow store.
    sticky hydro

    sticky hydro Member

    are your mites black

    StonerPuppy69 Member

    It's ok dannygreeneyes! I know that this isn't the kind of thing most girls are into either! But I do love growing weed and it's an increasingly interesting hobby! I think that with the removal of my fan leaves (which were very over run with eggs and adults) that the ladybugs might be able to keep up. Since cutting down 2 of my plants Im down to 5. I released the rest of my ladybugs this morning (I couldn't get them outta the bag so I just put the nesting stuff right in the bucket). Could my infestation have gotten so big because of how my plants are growing-- I have some of those rubbermaid totes...filled em with dirt and whatnot and I have(had) 4 plants in each tote. Now 1 tote has 2 and the other has 3 plants. What's the life cycle of the ladybugs? How fast are they going to reproduce because they've been goin at it like crazzzyyy! If they can reproduce fast enough I think that my problem will dwindle.

    I'm starting to worry about my vegging girls. They were transplanted on the 5th and they have been kind of slow to take off. I forgot to write down my soil mixture last time (which sucks because my clones took in about 3 days)...and these have been a little slower in taking. So they're still kind of small and the problem isn't out of control...very minimal..just don't want it to escalade!
    I used Miracle Grow dirt (just reg potting soil), some lime (because I have really bad water..pH of about 8!), bonemeal, quick release nitrogen(sweet and tender), and perlite. Some of the clones had some eggs. I sprayed and dipped them in an alcohol water mix. I released a few ladybugs in there to finish off the job but they all seem to have disappeared. So I think Im going to spray them with Mite X. Would that effect the ladybugs in the flowering room? My set up is kind of strange due to limited space...I took a spare bedroom and pretty much put a fake wall in it. Made a frame out of wood and bought some of that styrofoam insulating board as the "wall". The flowering room is light sealed, but Im not sure if the spray will effect those girls. I read the ingredients also and there's some oils in it...should I wait until my light goes off to spray?

    I have tried to keep my room cool because I read that the mites don't like the cold. It's been below freezing outside for the last few weeks so when the light goes off it definately goes in the 60's (hopefully that has helped). How do I raise my humidity? This is my second harvest so I'm still doing tonsss of learning. Thanks for all of everyones help! I really appreciate it!

    I've attached a few pics...sorry some are sideways! The girls have been budding for about 24 days. They're still rather small but I don't think they're doing too bad considering the mites! Hope you enjoy!

    Attached Files:


    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    Yeah, and it's a shame more girls aren't into growing. It's kind hard to find a girlfriend when you have a big secret in the closet. lol

    I'm sorry to hear that you lost 2. But didn't you have 14? If you lost 9 total I think I'm gonna cry. 2s bad enough.

    The plants being so close definately helps an infestation get bigger faster. But those things lay eggs so fast I doubt if it would have mattered too much. It would have helped cut down the number of infected plants if you could have moved uninfected plants to another area though. So it probably wouldn't hurt to pick up some 5 gallon pots when you get a chance. Bugs aren't the only things they can catch. Also, I've heard that problems can come from roots getting tied, not sure how much truth there is to that though.

    If your Lady Bugs are letting nature take it's course, that's all the better. The bigger their population the better they'll do at keeping infestations from starting. If they get too thick in there, you can always catch some and let them go outside, or maybe even sell some back to the nursery once in a while. I'm not sure of their life span, but I think it may be longer than a season if the winter doesn't kill them, which it wont in a house. Just be sure to scrape their eggs off your leaves with a fingernail after they hatch.

    The soil you use depends a lot on how big your girls are when you start vegging them. If the roots are only an inch or so, you should start with a very light soil with almost no nutes. If they're bigger you can start with a heavier dirt that has more nutes.

    I start in a cup with light soil only under fluoros. Once they're big enough to transplant, I move them into pint containers with a 50/50 mix of Fox Farm Ocean Forrest & light soil and move them under the HIDs. Once they're big enough I then move them to 5 gallon pots of FFOF. I always use perlite (1/3 perlite mix) with the soil and I never wait till the roots have gotten to the edges of the container before I transplant. If you don't disturb the roots when transplanting, then they'll keep growing like nothing happened. If I decide to start using Dyna-Gro I'll have to change that around and use soil without a lot of nutes throughout because Dyna-Gro is chemical based.

    I have a rule against using Miracle Grow so I can't tell you much about that soil. But FFOF among other things has Mycorrhiza which you can read up on here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza . It helps roots get bigger, grow faster, and absorb & process more of everything. So needless to say it does wonders for the plants growth & health. I also use an addative with more Mycorrhiza in it, I add it to the water every couple of watering, I use it when I transplant, I sprinkle it on the soil before watering if a plant isn't growing fast enough, I even use it to clone. Good stuff and I haven't burned a plant with it yet. I don't think it's even possible.

    If the growth on your new girls is slow and you have nute burns (even minor ones) I'd get them out of that soil. Nute burns causes small & underdeveloped roots. If you don't have nute burns and you want to help them take off faster, get something with Mycorrhiza in it (cheap at nurseries, expesive at grow stores), dig 4 holes at the edge of your folliage (where the edges of your roots usually are), put some in (table spoon or so) and cover it with dirt. That should help a lot.

    You shouldn't put lime in your dirt unless you have to raise the pH in your dirt. And don't add it to the water because it will raise the pH in your soil when you water. Soil should have a pH of between 6.5 & 7 and water should have between 6.3 & 6.5. It sounds like you already have a way to test pH (if not a probe for the dirt at Home Depot for $7 and an aquarium pH test kit at Wal-Mart for $8 are wise investments, electric is more accurate but more expensive), use it to pH the water & soil. With water just use Baking Soda to raise it & Distilled White Vinegar to lower it when you need to. The dirt is harder to adjust, best thing is to just buy soil in the right range.

    For soil I'd really recommend FFOF once the plants are big enough to handle the nutes. That stuff has a good ammount of Mycorrhiza to start you off, it's a 7.0 pH, and you won't have to add nutes for the first month or so. For something light enough to use when they're young, just ask the horticulturist what they use for new seedlings, I'm sure they'll recomend something good and inexpensive. Also, I used bottled spring water, but many use tap so it's up to you. Store brand bottled water is under $1 a gallon so to me it's worth it.

    Spider mites can cause slow growth and even some disfigurment, and an alchahol bath might slow growth even further. So if the slow growers are part of the bunch that had the mites, that might be the problem. Just give them some time and they'll come around.

    The Mite X may harm the lady bugs that are on the same plants, but it shouldn't have an effect on the ones in a different room. Just remember to give your girls a good spraying down with water before moving them in there with the Lady Bugs to wash as much of it off as possible. I'm not really sure if it will harm the Lady Bugs at all though, I'll have to test it at some point.

    Some have told me that it's fine to use the Mite X under the lights, but then again someone told me last night that Black Strap Molasses has stuff in it that's not on the label. lol I wouldn't use it under HIDs, but it might be ok to use it under Fluoros if they're not too close. Safest to use it in the dark though. I saw this little light that you hang on your ear at the grow store when I picked up the Rapid Rooters. Supposedly it uses a safe light spectrum so it don't expose your girls to light when they'r in the dark. It's an LED though, so it probably isn't strong enough to do much anyway, but it lets you see in the dark while keeping your hands free.

    Don't make the mistake of thinking that the Mites are gone because you don't see them. Even if you're using a pocket microscope to look. All it takes is 1 egg (maybe 2 eggs, not sure if they're asexual). They can lay literally dozens of eggs a day, which is why I suggested more lady bugs. They can only eat so much in a day.
    But 2 eggs can become hundreds of mights in a matter of days.

    Once they're gone you shouldn't have to worry about them any more as long as the lady bugs are around. Just don't buy any clones from anyone, if you buy an infested clone where they've already nested, you can have another fight on your hands. They wont make a new nest where predators are present, but they wont give up a nest either.

    You have some pretty girls there, great job. They're bound to be a little smaller because of the Mites, but for plants that have had Mites, you're doing a beautiful job. Besides they stlll have another month to go. When you feed them just try to use a nute that includes as many of the minor nutes as possible, that should help some with size.

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    Sorry, forgot about the humidity. Humidifiers are the best way, and warm air humidifiers (old school ones) are the best ones. The cool mist doesn't put moisure in the air as fast.

    You can also put open trays of water under the lights & hang wet towels, but to get it up 20% + you need humidifiers.

    You can get them cheap if you go to a thrift store. If I remember it's dry there, like 20% normally. If that's true then you'll want to get as many as you can, as many as 4 or 5. Just put them above the level of the tops of your plants so the warm mist doesn't hit them directly.

    Also put in plenty of fans so you don't get fungus or mold/mildew, and put them on hi speed & oscillating. And turn off the humidifiers once the mites are gone, but don't throw them away in case you ever need them again.

    The cold is good, but it only slows them down so they don't lay as many eggs, it wont kill them. It will also slow down the lady bugs though. As long as you can get the humidity up to 80% plus it will help a lot and kill most of them, but not the eggs. After running them for a day or two, you might want to wait 7 days and run them again for a day or two to help kill anything that might hatch in the mean time.

    Also, the lady bugs I bought had something hanging from the top for the lady bugs to eat. Looks like a sugar cube, but it has to have other nutrients added. I'm going to call the company next week and find out if I can buy it somewhere so I can feed the lady bugs between infestations which should be all the time. lol I figure to feed them once a month or so by putting the enhanced sugarcube in for a day or two, then take it out. I'll let you know what I find out.

    CAashtree Active Member

    im a new member who registered mainly to talk about mites. i battled them for almost a year - neem, pyrethrins, azamax, rubbing alcohol, safer soap, predator mites, lady bugs. no dice. tried Hot Shot No-Pest Strips out of desperation and holy crap! mite armaggedon! this was to be my last run at this location due to the mites, but i finally got them. sure they may be toxic when theyre hanging but from what i understand they leave no residue after a couple days of removing them and no-pest strips work. probably should spend as little time as possible with the strips in the room and i plan on leaving them out for a month to get any succesive hatches. seriously, though, these will work even if you are a filthy pig and leave old trim laying in your room and never clean up.

    DannyGreenEyes Well-Known Member

    I'm glad to hear that you got rid of your mites, but don't make the mistake of thinking the same treatment is going to work every time. They can become immune to just about anything in only 1 or 2 generations. And you never know what immunities the spider mites that just showed up are carrying. Sounds like the ones you had were immune to many things.

    If you put lady bugs in there now (& keep them alive) and you're carefull about clones, then you'll never see them again. They never make a nest where predators are present, that's a trait of the species and no immunity can change it. If you buy a clone with an existing nest then they wont abandon it, so be carefull with clones.

    Also, if you ever do get them again, add humidity to whatever else you're using for better results. They can't handle the humidity. Moisture bulds up inside them until they burst. This is a physical trait of the species that can't be changed.

    And the lady bugs will also stop all other infestations of insects smaller than them with soft bodies.

    I am surprised to hear that the predator mites didn't work though. Maybe you didn't start with enough of them because spider mites can't fight back, they can only breed faster. So I'm not sure what happened there.

    But like I said, I'm glad you got rid of them, and welcome to RIU.

    CAashtree Active Member

    i really dont want to start the natural vs chem fight so heres my situation, probably different than a lot of yours. i am lucky enough to live in a major agricultural area known worldwide for its delicious fruits and nuts. unfortunately my room is an outbuilding underneath a large old pecan next to many other fruit trees. the mites like pecan trees - so its very difficult to avoid tracking them in. also we have both two-soptted and red european mites. two-spotted hate humidity, the reds love it. damned if you do, damned if you dont...i know that my situation is slightly more difficult to control than if you had a nice clean walkup and i would prefer to use less toxic control methods if it were an option. believe me- i tried. having come from a professional pest control background i have learned a thing or two about resistances. while it is true that they build up resistances to toxins such as pyrethrins, it is much more difficult for them to build a tolerance to dichlorvos (active ingredient in no-pest strips) because it is more of a fumigant and generally kills anything, including newly hatched larvae before they can breed and pass on this tolerance.
    that being said one shouldnt just hang these in their house. youll notice i said my room is in an outbuilding and i can easily limit my exposure. always follow directions on the package and dont use them in your house.
    i know that most mite situations in a small scale garden can be handled or completely avoided by being clean and using predators or treating with neem or azadactrin weekly. and i will say that if you can get predators and ladybugs in before you have a problem, chances are good that they will keep things in check. but if mites are eating your commercial garden alive cycle after cycle despite your best efforts and youre just freakin tired of dealing with those bastards then maybe a no-pest strip or two will be just the ticket.
    and thanks for the welcome danny.

    woodsmaneh! Well-Known Member

    Well I have fought the good fight against the mighty 2 spotted mites and used all the stuff. How did I win, I used Avid, it is a miteacide approved for food crops as late as 4 days before harvest. It is systemic so protects for week and will kill all the hatches and there can be up to 3 after you kill the adults. Invented at the University of Guelph in Kitchener Ontario, Canada. You can order it online in the USA. They just lifted the ban for private use in Canada 9 months ago. Been using it off an on for 5 years. Don't want to use it too much as they get resistant to it.



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