Soil test results for Happy Frog and Malibu Compost...

NoMoreBottles

Well-Known Member
Just picked up some Happy Frog and Ocean Forest the other day to use while I try and figure out if I can save my last mix. Sufur looks pretty high with the Happy Frog.
 
These tests were done by Soil Savvy and they are solubility tests that will show lock-out.
Just got their mail in test kit, can't decide which soil to test first rn.. When you say it will show lockout, you mean by interpreting the bar graph or ppm shown in the results? Or they kinda give plain english for what's causing the lockout in your mix?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Just got their mail in test kit, can't decide which soil to test first rn.. When you say it will show lockout, you mean by interpreting the bar graph or ppm shown in the results? Or they kinda give plain english for what's causing the lockout in your mix?
The standard soil test was developed in 1984 and it consist of a Mehlich 3 test and a Saturated past test(chemical extraction). The Mehlich 3 test will show you what nutrients are present and the saturated paste test is the "solubility test" that will show lockout. The Soil Savvy test is replacing the Saturated Paste test. Soil Savvy has a patent on their test kits and it's the gel inside that is so different. The gel is supposed to be very similar to root tissue and the gel will actually absorb the same nutrients as the roots will. The gel will sit in the soil/water solution for 5 days before they test it and it will show what nutrients are readily available to the plant. I listened to a podcast about it and the inventor said that a saturated paste test will take a snap shot of what going on in a 5 second window, to where soil savvy will sit in the solution for 5 days and give you a bigger picture of what is going on. Really, I save money by just doing the Soil Savvy test because that is all that I really need. Sometimes, I will opt for a Mehlich 3 test too but not often. I've used Logan Labs, Spectrum Analytic, Soil Savvy, and the local extension office which is Oklahoma State Univ(Ag school).
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Just got their mail in test kit, can't decide which soil to test first rn.. When you say it will show lockout, you mean by interpreting the bar graph or ppm shown in the results? Or they kinda give plain english for what's causing the lockout in your mix?
Maybe I didn't understand your question?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Or they kinda give plain english for what's causing the lockout in your mix?
This is the question, right... Nobody has been any help with this stuff man. I get into more arguments when referring to soil tests, so I have been relying less on forums and more into books and podcasts. Mulder's chart should be very helpful though. Look for the thing that is being locked out and see what it's antagonist is. However, Manganese is supposed to be locked out in high organic matter soil and I have written a different thread referring to Manganese. I'll find it if you are interested because I think that just about everyone has Mn def and just don't know it til they test their soil. You'll see when you get the test results back. Please post them too. I have to take a pic of my computer screen to download a pic of the test, FYI.
 
I just started listening to that podcast yesterday too, haven't made it halfway through need to finish. Hell yeah thanks for all the help btw, Like that mulder chart been searching hours for precisely that without knowing of it's existence or that it already had a name lol

you helping to make these forums worth reading, always more to learn, soil science is what i wish most this site was about. The readable bar graphs in the first place helped me choose savvy for my first testing, that and looking for testing living soil particularly. Noob question, I'm sure it's been tried but, wondering if I test my happy frog how different the results will be from yours, if both right out the bag unammended?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
The readable bar graphs in the first place helped me choose savvy for my first testing, that and looking for testing living soil particularly.
Spectrum Analytic is the next best because they have a bar graph too, it's hard to read Logan Labs reports(very hard) so I don't even bother with them anymore. Spectrum is going to give you the Mehlich 3/Saturated Paste test and it will be closer to $100 compared to $30 for Soil Savvy.
Noob question, I'm sure it's been tried but, wondering if I test my happy frog how different the results will be from yours, if both right out the bag unammended?
I bet that they will be similar but different. What I remember about HappyFrog is that it needed Boron and Manganese and I bet that statement would hold true if you tested it too, which I'm interested in for sure. If you buy Soil Savvy in packs of 4 it is $100, which is $20 cheaper and you don't have to wait for shipping. It's cool that you are showing interest because there are not many people on here that get their soil tested and everyone is supposed to guess their problem from a picture. Good luck!!!
 

LinguaPeel

Well-Known Member
I can't remember all them dam abbreviations, might as well be poop emojis and eggplants. Wtf is NH4N???

On a serious note, you gotta wonder what the actual optimal range is for a plant bred in closets by drug dealing freaks for half a century really is. Sulfur for example. I have this feeling I've got too much, I've heard the magic number is 70ppm, but what's that based on? Who started that myth/rumor and why? Who knows. These forums shouldn't be a source of info, that's all I know. Someone with a functioning brain should write a book. I say functioning brain because the books I've seen on Cannabis were just as laughable as the forums.


Guarantee the people ridiculing you about soil analysis rely on luck to get by. I've had nothing but issues since growing under artifical lighting, when I used to set the shit in my back yard with soil dug out of the ditch and a little animal shit,no problems.
 
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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Guarantee the people ridiculing you about soil analysis rely on luck to get by. I've had nothing but issues since growing under artifical lighting, when I used to set the shit in my back yard with soil dug out of the ditch and a little animal shit,no problems.
Ground soil has the minerals that potting soil doesn't. I'm talking about micronutrients.
 

IIReignManII

Well-Known Member
Ground soil has the minerals that potting soil doesn't. I'm talking about micronutrients.
You gotta introduce the real ground soil IMO, pun intended...I've been trying to play around with what the ideal ratio to cut into my soil-less mix. I've done like two gallons of real soil cut into a 15 gallon and that seemed to work well. Its crazy how much heavier it makes the soil, you're just adding so much more surface area into that container.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
You gotta introduce the real ground soil IMO, pun intended...I've been trying to play around with what the ideal ratio to cut into my soil-less mix. I've done like two gallons of real soil cut into a 15 gallon and that seemed to work well. Its crazy how much heavier it makes the soil, you're just adding so much more surface area into that container.
Dr. Cho is supposed to be a chicken lover and he uses IMO4 in his chicken coops, it's another reason that I need to get into this. We already make rice often and have a $400 rice maker(diet). We can use the rice wash for LABS and the rice for IMO4. I just need to do more studying. We have the downloadable PDF for KNF and watched Drake's class on Youtube, but I'm still missing a good chunk of info...
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
You gotta introduce the real ground soil IMO, pun intended...I've been trying to play around with what the ideal ratio to cut into my soil-less mix. I've done like two gallons of real soil cut into a 15 gallon and that seemed to work well. Its crazy how much heavier it makes the soil, you're just adding so much more surface area into that container.
Damn, I confused IMO for IMO4. My bad...
 
Happy frog, freshly opened bag in October. I should have posted this a while back.
Screenshot 2020-11-14 190608.png
I'm facing a learning curve here. What do yall think? Lots of sulfur right, maybe thats why the lower ph? Is ppm for only water soluble nutrients?
 
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