Soil Problem? - Yellowing of Upper Leaves

Hey guys, so I'm hoping to create a dialogue over some symptoms that I and a number of other growers are experiencing using a local South African soil brand. So far everyone I've chatted to about the topic has experienced some form of the same problem, however, it's a question no one seems to have a clear answer on and may not be possible, but narrowing it down may be useful. I chatted to the soil creator and discussed the issue with him, and he also wasn't entirely sure since his tests come out good, but his testing environment is limited to very large pots and only under one type of lighting.

Apologies if this is a bit too detailed, but this has been driving me crazy.

The Symptoms and Notes

  1. Yellowing of middle and upper leaves from around week 3 of flower.
  2. Necrotic patches on the leaves similar to traditional N-deficiency.
  3. Slight drooping of leaves and general limping of petioles even when watered.
  4. Symptoms start typically with a general lightening of the leaves to light green, which then progresses over time becoming more yellow and then almost white, or on other leaves yellow followed by necrotic twisted patches.
  5. Plants from the same mother flowered under different lighting and receiving less feed looking healthier (unfortunately with both variables changed it doesn't narrow it down too much).
  6. Plants thrive in veg stage, soil seems filled with nitrogen that's readily available. Plants all seem to do great during their stretching period too, only once bud formation starts do they really encounter problems.
  7. The few of us experiencing the issue have been using different nutrients, some KNF inputs and others bottled nutrients.
The plants were moved from 5L pots to 10L pots with new soil being used in the transplant, they were then vegged for 3 weeks before flip. Below is the soil composition:

Contents:
Substrates:
Compost, Vermicompost, Coco peat, Sphagnum peat moss (sustainably harvested) and perlite.
Amendments:
Alfalfa meal, Aloe meal, Basalt Rock Dust, Bio-Char (preloaded with microbes), Canna-Kashi, Calcitic Lime, Copper Powder, Dolomite Lime, Guano (seabird), Gypsum, Humic Acid, Fulvic Acid, Frass, Kelp Meal, Malted Barley, Manganese Oxide, Montmorillonite Clay, Soft Rock Phosphate & Zeolite.
Inoculant:
Cannabis Microbial Consortium.
Feeding and Watering Habits

  • Watering is recommended daily or every second day as it's a Peat-based mix, which I did try and stick to. However, there were 1 or 2 days where they were able to dry out more than optimal, coco would be forgiving enough but not sure about peat.
  • Watering is done with dechlorinated tap water.
  • Watering is done between 6 and 6.7pH, but shouldn't be as important given the soil medium and organic ferments.
  • Feeding is done per the soil creator's recommended schedule, once a week. (Attached is the feeding schedule used along with the nutrient line's makeup.
  • Watering is done to mild runoff typically, though tried to avoid runoff after the issues progressed.
  • Run-off has tested at 6.5pH
Environment
  • +-28'C with a RH of around 55% to try and keep the VPD best I can without aircon.
  • 1.5x1.5 meter tent
  • 2x 240W Quantum Boards
  • 10L pots with plants being around 25g yielders.
  • Lights are around 40cm from plants, but the tallest plants aren't affected any worse.
It is worth noting here that the plants grow amazingly in veg, there seems to be a lot of

My Thoughts

I have run this soil in three different environments thus far, but also with a lot of other variables between them each. I had some small pollinated plants in 2.8L pots using the same soil, under a dimmed QB - and they came out looking great. I also have some going under a 315W CMH in a 1.2x1.2 and they are also yellowing far less than the plants in my main tent.

Unfortunately, it's not just the lights that differ between the CMH and the QB though, as I also fed the CMH plants a bit less than the others and watered them a little more frequently due to the smaller pot sizes (5L).

Currently, I am leaning to thinking it could be one of the following:
  • The soil needing to be watered more often than growers here are typically used to, given that coco-based has traditionally been the only soil on the cannabis market, and any drying cycles potentially causing some lockout effects.
  • A depletion of nitrogen occurs around the middle of flowering (though as can be seen in image 1, the lowers remain green and look rich in nitrogen still, however the leaves closer to the lights or the middle of the plant go light, so I'm not sold on this).
  • A lockout of several macronutrients caused by salts or some other issue with the soil base itself causing lockout (though traditionally I expect to see mg and ca deficiencies locked out first).
  • The fact that my plants under my 315w look healthy despite a similar schedule and same soil, I have wondered if the Quantum Boards perhaps increase the uptake (so far I've only seen anecdotal evidence of this, but it definitely feels like I get deficiencies much quicker under my QBs) requirements and that the soil then depletes as it progresses through flower. Especially as it feels like a traditional fade almost, but just way too early. The issue with this however is that plants haven't responded to an increase in feed.
Below are some images of my run, along with some from my buddies - along with the attachment of the feed and the feed makeup.

colorcorrectedchernobyl.jpg

This is my Chernobyl at day 50, it has been limping along with these yellowing leaves for a while now. As you can see, the lower leaves are still very green while the middle and top leaves have faded without interveinal chlorosis.


Screenshot_20210329_211714_com.instagram.android.jpg
Someone else on Instagram using the soil was getting the same issues.

IMG-20210330-WA0046.jpg

Another friend of mine ran the soil outdoors in a pot (pictured front) and you can see that the plant behind it, at the same age, that was planted in the ground is looking much less yellow - suggesting the fade isn't a case of the plant deciding not to uptake any additional nutrients but perhaps a lack of availability or lockout.
 

Attachments

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Dopesmoka

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, so I'm hoping to create a dialogue over some symptoms that I and a number of other growers are experiencing using a local South African soil brand. So far everyone I've chatted to about the topic has experienced some form of the same problem, however, it's a question no one seems to have a clear answer on and may not be possible, but narrowing it down may be useful. I chatted to the soil creator and discussed the issue with him, and he also wasn't entirely sure since his tests come out good, but his testing environment is limited to very large pots and only under one type of lighting.

Apologies if this is a bit too detailed, but this has been driving me crazy.

The Symptoms and Notes

  1. Yellowing of middle and upper leaves from around week 3 of flower.
  2. Necrotic patches on the leaves similar to traditional N-deficiency.
  3. Slight drooping of leaves and general limping of petioles even when watered.
  4. Symptoms start typically with a general lightening of the leaves to light green, which then progresses over time becoming more yellow and then almost white, or on other leaves yellow followed by necrotic twisted patches.
  5. Plants from the same mother flowered under different lighting and receiving less feed looking healthier (unfortunately with both variables changed it doesn't narrow it down too much).
  6. Plants thrive in veg stage, soil seems filled with nitrogen that's readily available. Plants all seem to do great during their stretching period too, only once bud formation starts do they really encounter problems.
  7. The few of us experiencing the issue have been using different nutrients, some KNF inputs and others bottled nutrients.
The plants were moved from 5L pots to 10L pots with new soil being used in the transplant, they were then vegged for 3 weeks before flip. Below is the soil composition:

Contents:
Substrates:
Compost, Vermicompost, Coco peat, Sphagnum peat moss (sustainably harvested) and perlite.
Amendments:
Alfalfa meal, Aloe meal, Basalt Rock Dust, Bio-Char (preloaded with microbes), Canna-Kashi, Calcitic Lime, Copper Powder, Dolomite Lime, Guano (seabird), Gypsum, Humic Acid, Fulvic Acid, Frass, Kelp Meal, Malted Barley, Manganese Oxide, Montmorillonite Clay, Soft Rock Phosphate & Zeolite.
Inoculant:
Cannabis Microbial Consortium.
Feeding and Watering Habits

  • Watering is recommended daily or every second day as it's a Peat-based mix, which I did try and stick to. However, there were 1 or 2 days where they were able to dry out more than optimal, coco would be forgiving enough but not sure about peat.
  • Watering is done with dechlorinated tap water.
  • Watering is done between 6 and 6.7pH, but shouldn't be as important given the soil medium and organic ferments.
  • Feeding is done per the soil creator's recommended schedule, once a week. (Attached is the feeding schedule used along with the nutrient line's makeup.
  • Watering is done to mild runoff typically, though tried to avoid runoff after the issues progressed.
  • Run-off has tested at 6.5pH
Environment
  • +-28'C with a RH of around 55% to try and keep the VPD best I can without aircon.
  • 1.5x1.5 meter tent
  • 2x 240W Quantum Boards
  • 10L pots with plants being around 25g yielders.
  • Lights are around 40cm from plants, but the tallest plants aren't affected any worse.
It is worth noting here that the plants grow amazingly in veg, there seems to be a lot of

My Thoughts

I have run this soil in three different environments thus far, but also with a lot of other variables between them each. I had some small pollinated plants in 2.8L pots using the same soil, under a dimmed QB - and they came out looking great. I also have some going under a 315W CMH in a 1.2x1.2 and they are also yellowing far less than the plants in my main tent.

Unfortunately, it's not just the lights that differ between the CMH and the QB though, as I also fed the CMH plants a bit less than the others and watered them a little more frequently due to the smaller pot sizes (5L).

Currently, I am leaning to thinking it could be one of the following:
  • The soil needing to be watered more often than growers here are typically used to, given that coco-based has traditionally been the only soil on the cannabis market, and any drying cycles potentially causing some lockout effects.
  • A depletion of nitrogen occurs around the middle of flowering (though as can be seen in image 1, the lowers remain green and look rich in nitrogen still, however the leaves closer to the lights or the middle of the plant go light, so I'm not sold on this).
  • A lockout of several macronutrients caused by salts or some other issue with the soil base itself causing lockout (though traditionally I expect to see mg and ca deficiencies locked out first).
  • The fact that my plants under my 315w look healthy despite a similar schedule and same soil, I have wondered if the Quantum Boards perhaps increase the uptake (so far I've only seen anecdotal evidence of this, but it definitely feels like I get deficiencies much quicker under my QBs) requirements and that the soil then depletes as it progresses through flower. Especially as it feels like a traditional fade almost, but just way too early. The issue with this however is that plants haven't responded to an increase in feed.
Below are some images of my run, along with some from my buddies - along with the attachment of the feed and the feed makeup.

View attachment 4866809

This is my Chernobyl at day 50, it has been limping along with these yellowing leaves for a while now. As you can see, the lower leaves are still very green while the middle and top leaves have faded without interveinal chlorosis.

View attachment 4866808

A friend of mine's Josh D cut also struggling at week 4 of flower. A few of my plants are also showing these symptoms at day 50.

View attachment 4866810

Another friend of mine ran the soil outdoors in a pot (pictured front) and you can see that the plant behind it, at the same age, that was planted in the ground is looking much less yellow - suggesting the fade isn't a case of the plant deciding not to uptake any additional nutrients but perhaps a lack of availability or lockout.
It needs nitrogen I’m marking in my notebook to reduce nitrogen after the stretch is complete
 
Thanks for this, I've been wondering about this topic and this graphic does a great job in providing that information. There certainly could be some excess K causing an issue with N.

As an aside, just a general query for anyone - while I'm aware that these organic feeds can't be measured properly with an EC meter, is there any value/ability to use an EC meter in an organic grow to measure the run off to determine if there is perhaps an increase in salt build ups? Or even just rule it out if the value is very low?
 

Highlife42

Well-Known Member
Hi there. Nice flower and bud formation to start (: ... my 2cents on the yellowing. IMO- You locked out Phosphorus (now deficient). The redish/purplish streaks on the stems and shoots; I saw some completely redish in the photos. Leaf colors.. Looking at your soil amendments, im gonna think you locked it out bc an excess of calcium, zinc. copper and iron. Which caused the middle to upper leaves to take on the redish hue, the tips to burn and curl. Among other micro-nutrients it locked out.

In regards to your EC meter. I would test run off with it, yes. It can tell you a lot. More so than PH bc it can tell you exactly what yo asked. Is there a build-up of salts. Test your EC runoff.
 
Hi there. Nice flower and bud formation to start (: ... my 2cents on the yellowing. IMO- You locked out Phosphorus (now deficient). The redish/purplish streaks on the stems and shoots; I saw some completely redish in the photos. Leaf colors.. Looking at your soil amendments, im gonna think you locked it out bc an excess of calcium, zinc. copper and iron. Which caused the middle to upper leaves to take on the redish hue, the tips to burn and curl. Among other micro-nutrients it locked out.

In regards to your EC meter. I would test run off with it, yes. It can tell you a lot. More so than PH bc it can tell you exactly what yo asked. Is there a build-up of salts. Test your EC runoff.
Is there any way to remedy this sort of lockout? If it's amended into the soil a flush probably won't do much. EC meter will be arriving soon and allow me to hopefully get a little insight from that too.

Just a few more images as well...

IMG_20210331_193910.jpgIMG_20210331_172326.jpg
 

BeastLebanese

Well-Known Member
Is there any way to remedy this sort of lockout? If it's amended into the soil a flush probably won't do much. EC meter will be arriving soon and allow me to hopefully get a little insight from that too.

Just a few more images as well...

View attachment 4867497View attachment 4867499
I would just like to say that I appreciate the detail you went into regarding this issue you and others are having. I would recommend you get the soil tested if possible. Last pics definitely look like molybdenum deficiency, had it last year on one plant. Hope you get it sorted soon, especially if others are having the same issue.
 

Highlife42

Well-Known Member
Is there any way to remedy this sort of lockout? If it's amended into the soil a flush probably won't do much. EC meter will be arriving soon and allow me to hopefully get a little insight from that too.

Just a few more images as well...

View attachment 4867497View attachment 4867499
Sorry for the delay. I would say no this late. Did you blend your soil together and immediately use it? If so, with everything you put in there- It needed time to cook and create balance.
 
Sorry for the delay. I would say no this late. Did you blend your soil together and immediately use it? If so, with everything you put in there- It needed time to cook and create balance.
So the soil I'm using was actually purchased from a store. The amendments listed are from their website. But with that said, I did note a very strong compost smell when I first opened the bags, so it is possible that the soil wasn't cooked enough. But they definitely seemed to love the soil right up until week 4 or so of flower.

They are in plastic containers yeah, 10L pots - but only 20+- gram plants. I know someone running them with fair success in 7L pots though, which made me rule out root bound issues. I also checked my root zone out on the one plant and it didn't appear as though they were wrapped or anything.
 

BeastLebanese

Well-Known Member
So the soil I'm using was actually purchased from a store. The amendments listed are from their website. But with that said, I did note a very strong compost smell when I first opened the bags, so it is possible that the soil wasn't cooked enough. But they definitely seemed to love the soil right up until week 4 or so of flower.

They are in plastic containers yeah, 10L pots - but only 20+- gram plants. I know someone running them with fair success in 7L pots though, which made me rule out root bound issues. I also checked my root zone out on the one plant and it didn't appear as though they were wrapped or anything.
From what I recall, I over-amended the tote the plant was in and it caused similar symptoms, not quite as severe, but definitely similar. Could potentially be the culprit.

I did recycle the soil after letting it sit for about 6 weeks and the plants I grew from it didn't show any of the symptoms whatsoever. I don't think I would take the chance if it was an entire crop though, hope you get this figured out. Looks like the yield really took a hit.
 
Just some additional information to go with this. I just received my EC/ppm meter and ran some tests to get an idea of at least how much is in my run off compared to my inputs, if my run off was higher I could at least consider a likely salt-induced lockout. I know these aren't ideal for soil with organic nutrients but it should at least give some telling based off % difference between the mix and the runoff.

However, the readings I obtained suggest that the soil may be well below where it should be, and despite what I considered a heavy feeding schedule. It may simply be a case of nutrients being washed out during watering cycles or something?

Here's what I got:

Control (Dechloronated tap water) : 97ppm
Runoff after plain water : 315ppm
Nutrient Mix (after adding the recommended dosage) : 530ppm

While I'm not sure if I can conclude that this means my soil is generally lacking nutrition, given the nature of the feed. It does suggest that it's unlikely to be a lockout since the runoff with water is significantly lower than the inputs.

This is my first time using a TDS meter, so any other interpretations of these readings would be helpful (if they're worth anything at all)
 

myke

Well-Known Member
My .02. long time hydro grower switched to organic,

people always say they veg great then week 3 of flower they yellow.Your 10l pots are tiny.One week before flip transplant into 7-10 gallon pots then your plants will have food providing your soil is decent.

My first organic grow did the same,week 3 yellow.I kinda saved them by adding salt/bottled food same stuff I feed my hydro.Fed to a good runoff so drain to waist.Every 2-3 days. I at least stopped the fade.Probably could've fed more.

In my second organic now,transplant from 5 gallon to 10, 1 week before flip. 23 days in now no problems yet lol.

Keep up with weekly top dressings of EWC some dry fertilizer like dr earth or gaia and things should go much better for yeah next round.
Ill add that since switching to organic my ppm pen has dust on it.Ive never checked runoff or pH.
 

Highlife42

Well-Known Member
Just some additional information to go with this. I just received my EC/ppm meter and ran some tests to get an idea of at least how much is in my run off compared to my inputs, if my run off was higher I could at least consider a likely salt-induced lockout. I know these aren't ideal for soil with organic nutrients but it should at least give some telling based off % difference between the mix and the runoff.

However, the readings I obtained suggest that the soil may be well below where it should be, and despite what I considered a heavy feeding schedule. It may simply be a case of nutrients being washed out during watering cycles or something?

Here's what I got:

Control (Dechloronated tap water) : 97ppm
Runoff after plain water : 315ppm
Nutrient Mix (after adding the recommended dosage) : 530ppm

While I'm not sure if I can conclude that this means my soil is generally lacking nutrition, given the nature of the feed. It does suggest that it's unlikely to be a lockout since the runoff with water is significantly lower than the inputs.

This is my first time using a TDS meter, so any other interpretations of these readings would be helpful (if they're worth anything at all)
Wow. I was expecting your numbers to be off the charts. But, I had a hunch that it would be lower than heck at that stage of life too. Bc water is probably barely penetrating the whole medium. I did some thinking today, researched some products you used in the soil and here's what I think: The soil is saturated with very high levels of metals that cannot oxidize. Compaction issues as well maybe. Your soil condition is the issue. Even if your roots are fine, Im gonna suggest that, you have pockets or layers of clay in your soil that are holding large amounts of metal compounds, that when water passes by carried with oxygen & carbon dioxide bonds. Lets say, there is not enough oxidation occurring to be able to process those pockets of high metals. More oxygen and more Co2 attached to H20 bonds, the more space/availability there is for those molecules to attach to more electrons and carry away the metals by reactions that use pathways like NADP..etc. Maganese depleted all the nitrogen bc thats what it uses for metabolism. You cut off lots of water intake to the plant which carries, I think calcium and chlorine to protect the plant leaf tissue to make photosynthesis/respiration. Chlorine as well was locked out which correlates to stomata pressure. In short, you suffocated your plant with high amounts of metals that it can not process. Potash was probably through the roof, especially in a 10L pot. The environment for this to be even possible has to dialed to a T. Co2 as well. It likely was not happening in Veg state bc less water was applied that did not allow for the ingredients to concentrate and compact within the soil. Over weeks of watering and more into flower, the soil became out of control. Dissolved oxygen needed.
Those needs a big glass of FFJ to be able to counter-act such alkaline metal buildup. Anyway, just my 2cents and some documents I ran across this past week.
 
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OSBuds

Well-Known Member
Those needs a big glass of FFJ

 

Highlife42

Well-Known Member
Have you tried inoculating them with grains that are native to your area. For instance, Millet is a great source for micro organisms? Do you know how to make your own EM-1?
 
Wow. I was expecting your numbers to be off the charts. But, I had a hunch that it would be lower than heck at that stage of life too. Bc water is probably barely penetrating the whole medium. I did some thinking today, researched some products you used in the soil and here's what I think: The soil is saturated with very high levels of metals that cannot oxidize. Compaction issues as well maybe. Your soil condition is the issue. Even if your roots are fine, Im gonna suggest that, you have pockets or layers of clay in your soil that are holding large amounts of metal compounds, that when water passes by carried with oxygen & carbon dioxide bonds. Lets say, there is not enough oxidation occurring to be able to process those pockets of high metals. More oxygen and more Co2 attached to H20 bonds, the more space/availability there is for those molecules to attach to more electrons and carry away the metals by reactions that use pathways like NADP..etc. Maganese depleted all the nitrogen bc thats what it uses for metabolism. You cut off lots of water intake to the plant which carries, I think calcium and chlorine to protect the plant leaf tissue to make photosynthesis/respiration. Chlorine as well was locked out which correlates to stomata pressure. In short, you suffocated your plant with high amounts of metals that it can not process. Potash was probably through the roof, especially in a 10L pot. The environment for this to be even possible has to dialed to a T. Co2 as well. It likely was not happening in Veg state bc less water was applied that did not allow for the ingredients to concentrate and compact within the soil. Over weeks of watering and more into flower, the soil became out of control. Dissolved oxygen needed.
Those needs a big glass of FFJ to be able to counter-act such alkaline metal buildup. Anyway, just my 2cents and some documents I ran across this past week.
Very insightful, thanks. It could well be that. No FFJ on hand though, and it'll be close to harvest once completed at this point.

Regarding EM-1, one of the soil conditioning products I use does have EM-1 in it.

I went and found some of my older photos from this run, that show how the symptoms progressed, which may be able to give some additional info. You can see it started with a general lighting of the green, a lack of chlorophyll production. Then a secondary case of leaves yellowing from the middle on a few cuts.

The plants positions change between photos, but you can easily see the lighter plants in the mix and the way it progresses.

IMG_20210405_142737.jpg
IMG_20210405_143005.jpg
IMG_20210405_143320.jpg
IMG_20210405_143527.jpg
IMG_20210405_145556.jpg
 
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