skywalker leaf prob.
- Thread starter geffcardo
- Start date
Antigen
Well-Known Member
That definitely looks like spider mite damage to me. Bad spider mite damage. And what are all those brown dots on the top of your leaves in the pictures? Not the white dots, but the few brown ones. Is that soil or bugs? You should look closely at the underside of the leaves to see if you can see any little brown or black specks. They look like slow-moving pepper. Use a magnifying glass if you have one to help you see them better.
Also if those are infected with spider mites and you put them next to your other plants, you can probably assume that all of your plants are now infected. Even if you can't see anything on them yet, it takes a while to start to see spider mite damage, and once you do, they are already pretty established.
You've gotta be careful where you get clones from and inspect them closely for bugs . . . if those are spider mites I hope you didn't pay any money for that clone.
Also if those are infected with spider mites and you put them next to your other plants, you can probably assume that all of your plants are now infected. Even if you can't see anything on them yet, it takes a while to start to see spider mite damage, and once you do, they are already pretty established.
You've gotta be careful where you get clones from and inspect them closely for bugs . . . if those are spider mites I hope you didn't pay any money for that clone.
That definitely looks like spider mite damage to me. Bad spider mite damage. And what are all those brown dots on the top of your leaves in the pictures? Not the white dots, but the few brown ones. Is that soil or bugs? You should look closely at the underside of the leaves to see if you can see any little brown or black specks. They look like slow-moving pepper. Use a magnifying glass if you have one to help you see them better.
Also if those are infected with spider mites and you put them next to your other plants, you can probably assume that all of your plants are now infected. Even if you can't see anything on them yet, it takes a while to start to see spider mite damage, and once you do, they are already pretty established.
You've gotta be careful where you get clones from and inspect them closely for bugs . . . if those are spider mites I hope you didn't pay any money for that clone.
yea i checkd the top before and i ddint c no spider mites, but when i check the under leaf..........I SAW THEM ACTUALLY MOVING. i immediately put the clone away from the others and i sprayed neem oil on the other plants top and bottom.
will this make things better?
i wish i had made this thread the day i got the clone. ive had it for 2 weeks already AND the guy charged me 20 bux
Antigen
Well-Known Member
Damn, that sucks. After 2 weeks with your other plants, especially if you were touching them all without washing in between, you've probably got them on all or most of your plants. The neem will help to knock down the population, but you'll need something stronger because the eggs will survive. Try these no-pest strips, they are the only thing I have ever had work to rid me of spider mites:
These work by releasing Dichlorvos poison into the air, so the mites cannot breathe and die. New mites that hatch out of eggs immediately die because they can't breathe the poisonous air. The problem with other methods of killing is that the eggs are immune to most poisons. You kill off the adults, but a few days later more eggs hatch and the problem starts over.
You will need to be able to seal off a small area that your lights and plants are in with these strips (which you can buy at Home Depot by the way). You may want to get more than one strip depending on the size of the room that you are going to use to treat your plants. If there is too much ventilation the poison will not be able to build up to a high enough level to kill the mites. It is OK for you to open the room in order to check on the plants, and water them. It needs to stay closed most of the time however.
You could also place anything that might have been touched by those plants in the sealed area also, so that any mites on that stuff will be killed as well.
Make sure you wash everything REALLY REALLY good that you can't put in with the poison, to make sure and get rid of any other mites and eggs. Always wash your hands before you go in to work with your plants to reduce the risk of infecting them with mites. Also try not to let your hair or clothes brush against your plants, especially if you have been outside for a while.
You should use them for 1-2 weeks to make sure all the eggs hatch while they are still in with the poison. If you take it away before all the eggs are gone, some might hatch and the problem will start over. You will need to check to make sure the mites are dying, if not then you are not using enough strips or your room is not sealing off well enough. Remember to keep using them after you stop seeing moving adults because there are still eggs that need to hatch before you remove the poison.
Once you are done using the strips and the mites are all dead, wash off your plants real good to remove any excess poison that might have accumulated on them. Also, you probably don't want to do this if you're too far into flowering stage, it is normally a veg-stage only cure.
i have had some battles with mites man they do not just go away you need to get a good chemical like floramite but there are a few that really work.spray the whole room down with the stuff and all the plants leaves the bottoms are the most important but every plant should be dripping wet every 3 days you do this for 3-4 times . and the pest strips help i keep 4-6 with 10 plants and get new ones for each set..when these plants are done do a serious cleaning or they will be back i guarantee it.
if i could not see the mites in your pic i would say you have thrips judging by the leaves. can you look around your soil a little and check your run off water for tiny white dots swimming around you might have both its common the thrips seem to follow the mites.they look like mites but are oval not round and they may be on the leaves with the mites.
http://www.amazinganimal.co.uk/harkers-harkamectin-5ml-p-23158.html
Dont worry about the pigeons on the box, this stuff is proven to work & not poison you after.
1/4 ml per liter & goodnight mites. Breaks down totally on 7 days so is safe to use late into flower too.
Dont worry about the pigeons on the box, this stuff is proven to work & not poison you after.
1/4 ml per liter & goodnight mites. Breaks down totally on 7 days so is safe to use late into flower too.
Antigen
Well-Known Member
Hmmm . . . Ivermectin to kill spider mites. It makes sense I guess, very interesting!
Antigen
Well-Known Member
No you can't see the eggs without some kind of magnification, unless you have really good eyesight! You need to spray that heavily infected plant with pyrethrin spray like "Don't Bug Me" ASAP to start knocking down the adult population. I would spray all of your plants if I were you, the less adults there are, the less eggs there will be. It should also get rid of thrips if you do have those also. Remember when you spray your plants with liquids don't put them right back under your lights all wet. Give them an hour or two to dry off before you put the lights back on them.
frank white47
Member
if the neem oil dont do it, ive had great success with floramite, u can only use it for veg, some hydro stores sell it in a tiny bottle for about 20 buck. you only need like two drops for 32 ounces of water.