Safe to smoke preventative?

What is a mold/mildew preventative that can be safely used in mid-late flower that wouldn't be harmful to smoke ??? want to make sure my plants are mold free and top notch(or the best I can get them, I would like to take pride in my growing's )

get a sulfur burner. They work great for mold and pm and also help to reduce some bugs. burn 1x per week up until last week of flower. Only burn during lights out.

a pound of sulfur will last you years

Copper sprays .

I thought I read that sulpher leaves a residue that is unsafe to smoke

again burn up until last week of flower. There will be very little to no residue left after a week under lights and fans and shit. These things are MADE for greenhouses

Or if things get to moldy this is a very safe alterative https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/533189-qwiso-hash-step-step.html

billy4479 said:

Copper sprays .

Click to expand...

Thanks that looks good and inexpensive for my small medical grow. its okay to spray on the buds? I would need to spray on the buds to prevent mold/mildew. Like I couldn't just spray it on the leaves and expect it to work on the buds 100%?

joe macclennan said:

again burn up until last week of flower. There will be very little to no residue left after a week under lights and fans and shit. These things are MADE for greenhouses

Click to expand...

I looked up other peoples views on sulphur burners and most of what I got is that is makes the weed taste different.

I think im gonna go with the copper spray

Id recommend the copper , spay very light . if you are far into flower

so you are not afraid of smoking copper and spraying a liquid on buds, which if anything will promote even more bud rot and pm

but you won't try the sulfur? Ok then. I'm telling you there is little to no sulfur residue left after a week under lights and fans, there is no discernible difference in taste if you don't burn closer to harvest than this.

good luck

Here's what i could find from a skilled grower, and his methods of solving the problem.






Plague of the White Fuzz - by Soma
As an avid breeder, grower, and one of the most enthusiastic smokers on this Planet,
I must say that powdery mildew is one of my worst enemies.
I have finally vanquished the dreaded powdery mildew fungus.
There are many methods, sulphur, milk and colloidal silver, to name a few.
They all help, but not as good as something that I grew up with as a kid.
Good old hydrogen peroxide. Mixing it and water in a good garden sprayer is my weapon of choice these days.
What I did was get 30% hydrogen peroxide. I diluted it 3 parts water to one part peroxide.
What I had then is about a 7 1/2% solution, which I then sprayed on my plants underneath the leaves and on top, including all of the stems and stalks. Immediately, I could see the powdery mildew bubbling away and dissolving.
This stuff is so strong that to see it disappearing right before my eyes was so pleasing.

When you are mixing this stuff up and applying it, I recommend wearing protective gloves and avoiding getting it on your skin, in your eyes or on your clothes, in fact, wear old work clothes when you do it. I use a 5 liter pump-up sprayer to spray the plants down.
I have noticed that when the peroxide drops down on the soil it fizzles and makes a mist, but I have noticed no ill effects from this. What I have also noticed is...no more harmful insects. They split without any poisonous chemicals.
The pests like spider mites do not like it at all. The best time to do this is just as the plant starts to flower, but can be done later on as well, but it needs some recovery time as the parts of the plants that had the mildew die-off, leaving healthy new growth free from the dreaded white fuzz.

Being the smoker that I am, loving cannabis with all my heart and soul, I help many coffee shops with quality control wares. They call me up, make an appointment and I come and taste test their best and like a famous wine taster, I tell them my opinion, which they value highly. When I spot the remnants of a crop that had powdery mildew it is very disheartening, as it basically ruins the taste and much of the high.

Another good way to use the peroxide is to clean up an infested grow area before planting a new crop. Make the same 7 1/2% solution and spray down the ceiling, walls and floors of the area and let it dry overnight with the exhaust fans on. You will then have an insect free grow space.

I have seen many growers spend much time and money trying to cure the mildew; this method is inexpensive and easy to use.
With the terrible weather we had here in Amsterdam this past summer, almost every outdoor grower I know had a problem with powdery mildew. I spread this remedy around to everyone I know. Try it out and get back to me with your findings so we can all learn more...Love and Light, Soma [email protected]

h202 would certainly be a better option than a liquid copper solution imho. Just not a fan of spraying anything liquid on flowers.

Why all the copper hating ?

I know Colloidal Silver UNDER 10PPM can kill mold and mildew. But over 10PPM you're begging for a sex change.

not hating at all man there are just better options imo

no offense intended

You guys ever tried copper ?

[h=5]Never used it but i read this about it.










Cultural Practices[/h] Plant in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and avoid applying excess fertilizer. A good alternative is to use a slow-release fertilizer. Overhead sprinkling may help reduce powdery mildew because spores are washed off the plant. However, overhead sprinklers are not usually recommended as a control method in vegetables because their use may contribute to other pest problems.
[h=5]Fungicide Application[/h] In some situations, especially in the production of susceptible cucurbits, fungicides may be needed. Fungicides function as protectants, eradicants, or both. A protectant fungicide prevents new infections from occurring whereas an eradicant can kill an existing infection. Apply protectant fungicides to highly susceptible plants before the disease appears. Use eradicants at the earliest signs of the disease. Once mildew growth is extensive, control with any fungicide becomes more difficult. The products listed here are for home garden use. Commercial growers should consult the UC Pest Management Guidelines.
[h=6]Fungicides[/h] Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive. Oils work best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity.
[h=6]Oils[/h] To eradicate mild to moderate powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil such as Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil, or one of the plant-based oils such as neem oil or jojoba oil (e.g., E-rase). Be careful, however, to never apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray or plants may be injured. Also, oils should never be applied when temperatures are above 90°F or to drought-stressed plants. Some plants may be more sensitive than others, however, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays may be even longer; always consult the fungicide label for any special precautions.
[h=6]Sulfur[/h] Sulfur products have been used to manage powdery mildew for centuries but are only effective when applied before disease symptoms appear. The best sulfur products to use for powdery mildew control in gardens are wettable sulfurs that are specially formulated with surfactants similar to those in dishwashing detergent (e.g., Safer Garden Fungicide) However, sulfur can be damaging to some squash and melon varieties. To avoid injuring any plant, do not apply sulfur when air temperature is near or over 90°F and do not apply it within 2 weeks of an oil spray. Other sulfur products, such as sulfur dust, are much more difficult to use, irritating to skin and eyes, and limited in terms of the plants they can safely be used on. Copper is also available to control powdery mildew but is not very effective.

[h=6]Biological Fungicides[/h] Biological fungicides (such as Serenade) are commercially available beneficial microorganisms formulated into a product that, when sprayed on the plant, destroys fungal pathogens. The active ingredient in Serenade is a bacterium, Bacillus subtilis, that helps prevent the powdery mildew from infecting the plant. While this product functions to kill the powdery mildew organism and is nontoxic to people, pets, and beneficial insects, it has not proven to be as effective as the oils or sulfur in controlling this disease.
[h=6]How to Use[/h] Apply protectant fungicides, such as wettable sulfur, to susceptible plants before or in the earliest stages of disease development. The protectant fungicides are only effective on contact, so applications must provide thorough coverage of all susceptible plant parts. As plants grow and produce new tissue, additional applications may be necessary at 7- to 10-day intervals as long as conditions are conducive to disease growth.
If mild to moderate powdery mildew symptoms are present, the horticultural oils and plant-based oils such as neem oil and jojoba oil can be used to reduce or eliminate the infection.

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/fruitpathology/organic/grape/organic.html You study you posted is good on of the 1st links I found when I was doing my home work but fails to say what kind of copper spay they are using . Bordeaux Mixture
Bordeaux mixture is a mixture of copper sulfate and hydrated lime in water. It has long residual action and has been used for years to control many diseases, including downy mildew and powdery mildew of grape. It can be made (mixed) on site by combining copper sulfate with spray grade lime. It is also commercially available as a dry wettable powder.
Fixed Copper Fungicides
Following the discovery and use of Bordeaux mixture, several relatively insoluble copper compounds or fixed coppers were developed. Fixed copper formulations release less copper ions and are generally less injurious to plant tissues (safer to use) than Bordeaux mixture, but their use is still limited because of their potential to injure plants and lack of compatibility with other pesticides. Some of the more common commercial formulations of fixed copper include C-O-C-S, Kocide 101, Tribasic Copper sulfate, Champ, and Tenn-Copp 5E. There are several fixed copper fungicides registered for use on small fruit. for controlling grape diseases.
H= highly effective
M= moderately effective
W= weak or not effective

Just started a new thread. https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/714859-prevention-treatment-powdery-mildew-mandalaseed.html#post9544159


Billy. Good sir. I can only assume copper has worked for you. GREAT man. Just keep reading that it's one to avoid when using on cannabis.

I haven't read the entire thread i just snagged from mandalaseeds.com but i am about to read the whole thing through and see if they have a reason for avoiding copper.

Check it out yourself if you would like....

Not bashing copper. just not reading anything good about it(besides the grape treatment you showed us)

I'm happy to see MODs helping out so don't think we don't appreciate your input