4-5 gallon pots are not "little tiny pots"
CRIS.
for a 6+ foot tall plant putting out a pound and a half it sure the hell is.
how about a 3 gallon? ....................
root bound
- Thread starter shadow030303
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for a 6+ foot tall plant putting out a pound and a half it sure the hell is.
how about a 3 gallon? ....................
LUDACRIS
New Member
thanks thats the answer i was looking for.you aren't going to get it no matter what i say. sex your plants then transplant them. you'll feel much better about it.happy growing.
appreciated.
CRIS.
after you harvest, carefully pull the root ball out and see how much your roots grew after you transplanted. i have and you may be surprised.thanks thats the answer i was looking for.
appreciated.
CRIS.
Resident Kush
Well-Known Member
The people on this site get so bent when theres conflicting knowledge. So you grow for 37 years, whats that prove, some guy jacks a thread and calls out the mods ??, what are the point of these statements.
In all your experience people, how many times have you really had a stunted plant due to root bound, the point is theres many more important issues than rootbound and nutrient deficiencies, but thats the only advice people seem to think they know. Everyone has theyre own methods of growing, it just seems that people get caught up in the wrong areas of care. It is true that you can grow plants it really small containers, is it best for plant, no but its not harmful either and to transplant after a week or two of flower is just stupid, root growth stops after week 3 of flower, funny how no one seems to mention that. I know people who grow theyre entire life, and contradict the majority of the garbage you hear on here, so advice or ill advice, you'll find it here.
I really think that people should give sound advice to a question, that is my only issue with this site, as it rarely happens
In all your experience people, how many times have you really had a stunted plant due to root bound, the point is theres many more important issues than rootbound and nutrient deficiencies, but thats the only advice people seem to think they know. Everyone has theyre own methods of growing, it just seems that people get caught up in the wrong areas of care. It is true that you can grow plants it really small containers, is it best for plant, no but its not harmful either and to transplant after a week or two of flower is just stupid, root growth stops after week 3 of flower, funny how no one seems to mention that. I know people who grow theyre entire life, and contradict the majority of the garbage you hear on here, so advice or ill advice, you'll find it here.
I really think that people should give sound advice to a question, that is my only issue with this site, as it rarely happens
at day 33 of flowering i'd say most of your plants energy is focused on producing flowers. if you were to transplant i don't think much effort would be used for new root production. the stress would hamper your cycle, as well.
all the way back at post #10 i thought i covered it. then dude comes in DEMANDING my help. i try, beg and plead for him to just look at the pictures and understand what i'm saying. he refuses. so i blow smoke up his ass and now he's happy as a clam. i'm truly at awe,
[youtube]wiGlDRQdXTM[/youtube]
this one? lol .....................
Silky Shagsalot
Well-Known Member
oh but it has been mentioned. people just don't read anymore (not you.) a lot of folks would rather have someone tell them an answer, rather than search for it.... ahhhh, the lazy yank!!!
LUDACRIS
New Member
something i will be checking/doing and posting my experience after the event.after you harvest, carefully pull the root ball out and see how much your roots grew after you transplanted. i have and you may be surprised.
then i will know and can say for sure that you can or can't transplant flowering plants sucsesfully dependent on if it works or if it fails.
(nothing ventured=noting gained).
(good advice).
LUDA.
LUDACRIS
New Member
Hayduke
Well-Known Member
Everything you say is true.
However for the typical indoor grow the time in veg and height is limited. And while the 50/50 general rule from botany (and it is absolutely species dependent and a general statement) applies, a typical 2-4ft tall flowered plant just does not utilize 5+ gallons of soil. If they had a lifespan longer they would use more root space, but would exceed the ceiling of most indoor grows...But FDD kinda shows even in an outdoor grow, if the plant does not need to search for water and nutes and has frequent periods of drying out (by nature of small container) two of the reasons plants produce roots is essentially augmented (see below). The third reason is also augmented by added support. I am also pretty sure FDD does not use small pots because that is all he can afford, rather it is obviously not needed for a plant that outdoors seed to bud has a lifespan of 6-9 months. That being said If I was growing outdoors I would use either much larger containers or dig a hole...and I believe the question actually pertains to an indoor grow with half the lifespan, as most people do not grow outdoors in gatorade bottles, and use half barrels or again just dig a hole.
And not a lot of time is spent in a nursery up-canning annuals. Nor would it really be good advice to re-pot halfway through flower. Good advice might be to avoid a pot that is too small, but from personal experience the majority of the rooting takes place during veg and the first 2-3 weeks of flower...since the question was to repot at 4-5 weeks into flower would simply waste soil since vegetative growth has essentially ceased and sticks with the 50/50 rule of roots to shoots. Again this is a very general rule...off the top of my head extremes in this would be saguaro cactus and epiphytes...or really any rainforest plant which has significantly less root/shoot. The purpose of roots for a plant are 1. support 2. respiration of gasses 3. transpiration of water and nutrients. If you live on moist airy bark you need significantly less root mass as compared to a desert plant. Logic would lead one to assume that Cannabis which has been acclimated to hot mexican deserts may have a natural tendency to have deeper root systems, and Cannabis varieties which have evolved in more tropical climes may have wider root systems. Though these ancestral traits may still be present, it is also safe to assume that some genetics have had sufficient time to adapt to indoor environments. I see this with diff. strains rooting more than others under the same conditions.
Point is IMO to advise to re-pot 5 weeks into flower is bad advise. And using common nursery techniques used for plants whose life span is counted in years and decades as opposed to weeks as justification is psuedo science. And as for up-canning in a nursery, of course it is not done to the point of reaching a terminal pot size (in most cases) but it is done because the little tree is going to be a 40 footer! To compare this to a plant whose purpose is to grow fast during 1 season and flower and seed before frost is like suggesting to leave the plant that is 33 days into flower in a solo cup, ridiculous.
Anyhow maybe because I was born in the show-me-state but FDD's pictures speak volumes...could they look better, of course. Could you or I make them look better, probably not. You wouldn't go to a soybean farming site to get advice on how to grow cannabis, so 100 year old nursery techniques, though are a great guide, should be applied with common sense.
That bud really looks root bound
chronic vegan
Active Member
well exposing the roots to air or light will stress them if not kill the rootshow can light or air possibly stress the plant?????.
and as for disease i think not.
LUDACRIS
New Member
South Texas
Well-Known Member
In ground, never dig "round holes". The freshly premixed soil is vastly different from most surrounding native soil in moisture retention, nute content & denity of the soil. The root growth will travel the path of least resistance. A round hole will cause the roots to travel in a circle... square or retangle holes forces the roots to dig in through the native soil. Watering & ferting 3 ft' from the plant base helps to draw the roots outside the prep'ed area.
Pulled 2 two ft. males yesterday.. yeah, it sucks. I cut off the root system, buried it in my soil. There is some microbes that love old roots for some reason, any root system. For organic root system, put them in your soil. Chem roots, give to the Mother-In-Law, or enemies, but not for your soil.
Pulled 2 two ft. males yesterday.. yeah, it sucks. I cut off the root system, buried it in my soil. There is some microbes that love old roots for some reason, any root system. For organic root system, put them in your soil. Chem roots, give to the Mother-In-Law, or enemies, but not for your soil.
South Texas
Well-Known Member
To kill males, expose the root system to sunlight... the light kills the beneficial fungi, bacteria & microbes, not to mention the moisture evaperation. Don't buy a small tree at the Nursery, then take it home, where a hole has to be dug. Prepare the soil, with holes dug prior to transplanting. 30 seconds is all the exposed roots should hit light & transition. A spray of seaweed in the transition causes problems... the roots like it soooo much, they try to climb up your arm.
LUDACRIS
New Member
i am going to transplant 3 fems tomorrow they are 2 weeks into flower(16" tall).
and i know they wont die as a result of the roots being exposed to air/disease or light as someone has already said.
(quick and fast pull it out plant it in).
LUDA.