Rockwool cubes

oldbongwater

Active Member
yessiree buddy

that sounds a lot more manageable..nothing more fun than trimming multiple lbs...that part about the width, did you try thicker than 5.5? any more..or no difference?

thanks obg:joint:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
The vast majority of my cuttings are larger than 5.5, most more than 10mm. The larger, thicker stemmed cuttings become bigger plants faster in SoG.

However, the difference in rooting speed and vigor was most pronounced with the poorer performance of the thinner stems, notably those under 4mm.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
yep- and it takes some flavour of HID light (HPS or MH) on the mums to give quick growth, so to have the thick stems ready for cuttings every 2 weeks. I use a 400HPS over 10 mums.


mums just after cuttings and 14 days later, ready for another batch
 

oldbongwater

Active Member
as luck would have it i have a 400 ceramic metal halide just sitting there ready for action. sooo from here on out we are gonna grow us some big-uns. i knew something funny was going on, i could never get the weight off of the clones i was looking for. now it is more than obvious that after reading this, i finally got the right answer. thank god i stumbled across this thread..and you ..of course. hope you feel better

obw:joint:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
yeah, I'm familiar with the things, just haven't used one yet. Haven't seen much if any anecdotes from users. Very interested to see what they'll do, how much heat they emit, etc etc.
 

oldbongwater

Active Member
let's put it this way, of the very few 1oz buds that i have seen up until now, they were generated from cmh. you can put them closer to the tops than anything i have ever seen. i would say 1 ft easily..closer with cooling..obviously..i know you will get one, when you are ready. that is what i did..and i am glad i did
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
let's put it this way, of the very few 1oz buds that i have seen up until now, they were generated from cmh. you can put them closer to the tops than anything i have ever seen. i would say 1 ft easily..closer with cooling.
Can you get CMH in 1000W yet?

Here's a 1oz bud (well, 1 & a bit more) done with a 1000HPS in a cooltube. :) Runs 300mm off the tops. There were 22 more buds like this one in the same batch.


obviously..i know you will get one, when you are ready. that is what i did..and i am glad i did
Depends- if a CMH of any wattage rating can do what the venerable 1000 HPS can do and for less power cost, I'm game. Purchase price would have to be pretty close to HPS, too.

The race is on! :D
 

oldbongwater

Active Member
the highest right now is 600, as far as i know. i read somewhere 600s produce as much usable lumens as 1000s. not really sure, but then again the spectrum is superior. price looks about the same

obw:joint:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Yes, I'm getting some similar info about the luminous output of CMH.

As far as the 'spectrum being superior,' I have my doubts. While HPS wasn't developed with growing plants in mind (the spectrum was limited to deliver increased luminous output while sacrificing colour rendition accuracy), the spectrum requirements of cannabis in flower happen to be nearly identical to the red-yellow peaks produced by HPS. Cannabis simply doesn't need full spectrum light for flowering, so why have a light that makes full spectrum? That burns watts to make lumens that are in a part of the visible spectrum that the plant simply doesn't need.
 

oldbongwater

Active Member
i am by far not a lighting expert, all i can say is i get better nugs from mh than sodium. and ceramic has worked quite well for the application so far. i suppose at some point someone will come up with the ideal bulb. this is the closest thing i have found to date. and like yourself, i'm sure i have tried more than needed

obg:joint:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
i am by far not a lighting expert, all i can say is i get better nugs from mh than sodium.
Your experience is unique. Wonder why everyone else gets better flowering growth with HPS, don't you?

I'll suggest that there is some other difference between your crops flowered with MH as opposed to HPS, aside from the light. Unless you did the comparison side-by-side, you can't assure that all other conds in your comparison were equal.

In flowering, we're looking to mimic light of a spectrum seen in late autumn in temperate latitudes, to which cannabis is indigenous. High solar angles in late spring & summer, while days are long and the plants are vegging, permit more transmission of blue light. As the season moves on to autumn from summer, the angle of the sun in the sky lowers, meaning that the sunlight is passing through a longer path through the atmosphere. Water vapor and particulates in the atmosphere tend to scatter short-wavelength blue light. The longer the light's path through the atmosphere, the less blue makes it through to the surface. You can see this effect any day of the year at sunrise and sunset.

This is why cannabis plants flower better under the red-yellow spectrum of HPS- it mimics the spectrum of late summer & autumn sunlight. It's also why MH, with its comparatively high amounts of blue, works better for veg.
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what these are...???

I saw them after harvest...

They ran from the light so it was hard to see them...

No harm to the crop ... only saw them in the rockwool...

I know the pictures aren't that good, but...

Anyone...???

Thanks...

Gypsy...:joint::peace:
 

Attachments

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Does anyone know what these are...???
yep, they are thrips. They are sap suckers which usually are found on the bottom of the leaf. Damage to the leaf is seen on the top side; there will be small silvery patches on the leaf top side opposite from where they have pierced the leaf on the underside.

In sufficient quantity, they will reduce yields; they are eating the sap that the plant has produced to build more plant material.

Keep your rockwool tops dry and you won't get that foul green slime of algae. The algae is food for many insects. Blocking light to unavoidably wet RW with a pot-sized disc of pandafilm with a hole & slot for the stem will help stop algae growth as well. If drip feeding, don't drip on the RW, only the pellets.
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
yep, they are thrips. They are sap suckers which usually are found on the bottom of the leaf.
Thanks!
It is a flood and drain type system...
Rockwool is above flood line...
15 min. 4 x day ...
No damage to the leaves was seen during harvest/manicure...
What is a good solution to get rid of them...
Is it necessary to stop everything... disinfect and start over??!??!??

Thanks again for your help!!!

Gypsy...:joint::peace:
 

oldbongwater

Active Member
the main benefit of ceramic metal halide is that it can be used for the entire grow cycle. since it covers the entire spectrum it eliminates the need for buying metal halide for vegetative growth and high pressure sodium for the flowering cycle..plus the added benefit of the ultra violet spectrum for the boost of resin production. so although most people find the sodium great for flowering, most people have not tried the ceramic for all around performance...that is where it excels, thus eliminating the need to purchase 2 different bulbs and ballasts. with ceramic metal you only need one. i should have explained that part more thoroughly. that's all. sorry for the mis-statement, no harm intended. i realise they are still relatively new to the market..and there has not been adequate time for the masses to be exposed to them quite yet. i find them more than adequate for both stages, i use a light rail to move them to and fro, and it works well enough that the few thicker stalked clones that happened during the process actually produced between 1.5 and 2 zips without even trying. those were flowered straight from clone no veg either. now that i know what the scoop is it should prove to be rather interesting to see what they can do now..once again thanks to you
The full spectrum lights are the best for both stages. it is thoroughly explained below
obg:joint:New Technology for Plant Lighting
 

King Bong

New Member
Let me jump in here Al B and OldBongwater: Research by the famous SanClem has shown that MH produced more GRAMS PER WATT than sodium. My experience has shown more GRAMS PER WATT with MH. Buds are tighter with MH.
A MH light with 3000 Kelvin color temp will produce the ultimum lumens @ most adventages color spectrum.
Sodium gives a more loose and fluffy bud...BIGGER visually than a halide bud but not as much weight as a halide bud.
The expert growers over at Highgrade seeds website ALL use halides for flowering.
So, I go by what I know, not what I hear.
 
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