Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
The key is to leave the rootball and chop up all the leftover leaves and stems, then top dress them back into the same pot.
exactly!
The Law Of The Return.
precisely why forest don't need nutrients, they rely on the detritus from the prior years grow.
This is why you WANT as much of your plant's leaves to go back into the soil, all of it.
cannabis is an annual plant, each yr they die, and the following yr's plants rely on that to give them the nutrients they want.
Beautiful plants as always my man
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
exactly!
The Law Of The Return.
precisely why forest don't need nutrients, they rely on the detritus from the prior years grow.
This is why you WANT as much of your plant's leaves to go back into the soil, all of it.
cannabis is an annual plant, each yr they die, and the following yr's plants rely on that to give them the nutrients they want.
Beautiful plants as always my man
The same as fallen fruit feeds the tree. Someone on here elaborated on it with a theory that plants require and respond better because of this.
 

Magic M

Well-Known Member
Dr Ingram said that on Hash Church recently, probably two, three months ago. She also said that AACT is only beneficial in soil if the compost was of poor quality to start with, or as a foliar spray.

You don't know Clackamas Coot?! Really!! He's been at the forefront of the living soil, no-till movement for years. He introduced NeemView attachment 3813812 , Karanja, Comfrey, Aloe and much, much more to the community. How about Mountain Organics, do you know of him?

Check this thread out. Read at least the first 20-30 pages. It, along with the original No-till thread changed my life and many others.


https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/no-till-gardening-revisited.1400505/

Follow Mountain Organics on IG. Review the old posts.



View attachment 3813802 View attachment 3813804
View attachment 3813813


Quality compost and mulching are key!
Yup those Guys changed EVERYTHING for me!!!
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
Dr Ingram said that on Hash Church recently, probably two, three months ago. She also said that AACT is only beneficial in soil if the compost was of poor quality to start with, or as a foliar spray.

You don't know Clackamas Coot?! Really!! He's been at the forefront of the living soil, no-till movement for years. He introduced NeemView attachment 3813812 , Karanja, Comfrey, Aloe and much, much more to the community. How about Mountain Organics, do you know of him?

Check this thread out. Read at least the first 20-30 pages. It, along with the original No-till thread changed my life and many others.


https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/no-till-gardening-revisited.1400505/

Follow Mountain Organics on IG. Review the old posts.



View attachment 3813802 View attachment 3813804
View attachment 3813813

Quality compost and mulching are key!
Ah yes I think I saw that interview, was it the one where the interviewer all of a sudden explains to her she's on a cannabis forum? lol So yeah, it was an interview that had to be understandable for everyone - Ingham has amazing condensation skills - she can shrink or expand her expertise to fit any context ;)
Thanks for the links too!
 

elfo777

Well-Known Member
Shall I mix mycorrhizae with my supersoil when mixing everything? Or do I apply myco with waterings? I am getting ready to cook a supersoil new batch and sprayed a bit of mycrrhizae white dust into the soil hoping it inoculates the soil. Problem is, I don't know if what I did is useless and mycorrhizae only inoculate roots instead of soil.
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
sorry cross posted... SIP: Miss Jack X Blue city dieselView attachment 3817152 View attachment 3817153
this strain was actually (Chemo X Respect X Ancient OG) X Blue City Diesel ... the MJ X BCD are all phenomenal as well... yeah anyway I dont know what the fuck happened a couple few months ago but I have noticed recently that some plants were miss labeled, today I harvested a plant tagged as more cowbell that actually smelled like a dragon fruit :wall: What am I supposed to do with them seeds I made, call them ''Spacebomb X More Cowbell but more likely Dragon Fruit'' and ''Skylotus X More Cowbell but likely Dragon Fruit'' ...I have the words ''likely this'' or ''likely that'' on far too many crosses I made haha.

I know, who cares right? I ll post some fire buds in the coming months, so many new creations in the making.
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Shall I mix mycorrhizae with my supersoil when mixing everything? Or do I apply myco with waterings? I am getting ready to cook a supersoil new batch and sprayed a bit of mycrrhizae white dust into the soil hoping it inoculates the soil. Problem is, I don't know if what I did is useless and mycorrhizae only inoculate roots instead of soil.
simply sprinkle on the roots of your transplants. this is how it's done. I was wondering tonight if I can mix the powder with water to water pots that were never inoculated.? I assumed I could and did it. Like most thing organic, I could have or not have and the end results would be the same lol, strong lights and good environment will take you there.
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
simply sprinkle on the roots of your transplants. this is how it's done. I was wondering tonight if I can mix the powder with water to water pots that were never inoculated.? I assumed I could and did it. Like most thing organic, I could have or not have and the end results would be the same lol, strong lights and good environment will take you there.
Yeah the chances are just smaller that the spores end up near the roots - but there's still a chance! :bigjoint:
 

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone...long time. Personally...i gave up on my inoculationz as im tipping my soil into a mixer...reamending...and repotting. (Destroying fungal forestz) Figured my potz were too small for a effective mycor colonization to take place...

So size of your potz is probably pretty important...bigger then 5 gallon (18 litre) i think....
 

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
Just finished mixing up a fat tote full of peat moss, ewc, rabbit shit, homemade ewc, and a gallon of locally found mostly crushed lava rock dust. I also plan on adding glacial rock dusts, gypsum, oyster shell, kelp, crab and neem meal. All of my egg shells are going in te mix as well, for those of you who are using them in place of lime, what amounts are you adding like 1 Tbsp/Gal? Just spent about an hour separating worms from their bedding, go em in peat this time so it should be easier. They are just in a round 18 gal tote and I was thinking a laundry basket with holes in the side would be a sweet container if it were lined with metal mesh.. Airflow would be better.

A couple of questions when you start the first no till run and your fresh soil is mixed do you go from solo/nursery square to 1/2gal to 5/7 to 15/20 etc or do you just take the clone/seedling or seed and plant it directly in (hopefully) her final pot from the beginning?

Also it seems the general consensus is that we should be using a 15 gallon pot minimum? I'm currently doing my first no till but it doesn't have the necessary ammendments like rock dusts, neem seed and seems to have too much rice hulls (air) in the mix as well.
Check out these pots from rootmaker they have a mesh bottom that allows roots to grow into the ground and create non-circling root systems. $12.50 each for the 15 gals but it would be a once in a decade purchase assuming they don't break (hopefully they have good customer service).

http://rootmaker.com/retail/29

I've read to about page 100 and look forward to reading the rest, thank you to everyone who has made a meaningful contribution to the thread!
 

goodjoint

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

I've been using the Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for a couple years, but always in fabric pots and never in plastic containers or bins.
I had mold (powdery mildew/botrytis/bud rot) during the last couple weeks of flower last time and I am looking to do everything in my power to stop this from happening again.
At the time, I purchased and tried a massive $300, 50-pint dehumidifier and all it did was heat up the room like a mofo and it didn't remove any moisture! (Frigidaire FAD504DWD)

I am thinking that the fabric pots are contributing to the high humidity issues since they breathe from all directions...? Could this be true?

I'm pondering about choosing 18 gallon plastic totes to grow in this time, rather than 7.5 gallon smart pots. I know there will be more soil, but with a thick layer of mulch and plastic walls to the container, I'm thinking that it'll improve the high humidity issues. These 18 gallon containers would be my largest pots yet and I plan to run them true no-til style (I haven't actually re-used soil before - I make a new batch each time, but I want to change that this time...)

Also, I planning on using Blumats too, so I don't ever have water dripping from the pots and onto the floor.

Anyone else here have issues with powedery mildew or botrytis in ROLS? Do you think plastic pots will keep less moisture in the air?

Thank you for your help. This thread is such a great one!
 
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DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

I've been using the Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for a couple years, but always in fabric pots and never in plastic containers or bins.
I had mold (powdery mildew/botrytis/bud rot) during the last couple weeks of flower last time and I am looking to do everything in my power to stop this from happening again.
At the time, I purchased and tried a massive $300, 50-pint dehumidifier and all it did was heat up the room like a mofo and it didn't remove any moisture! (Frigidaire FAD504DWD)

I am thinking that the fabric pots are contributing to the high humidity issues since they breathe from all directions...? Could this be true?

I'm pondering about choosing 18 gallon plastic totes to grow in this time, rather than 7.5 gallon smart pots. I know there will be more soil, but with a thick layer of mulch and plastic walls to the container, I'm thinking that it'll improve the high humidity issues. These 18 gallon containers would be my largest pots yet and I plan to run them true no-til style (I haven't actually re-used soil before - I make a new batch each time, but I want to change that this time...)

Also, I planning on using Blumats too, so I don't ever have water dripping from the pots and onto the floor.

Anyone else here have issues with powedery mildew or botrytis in ROLS? Do you think plastic pots will keep less moisture in the air?

Thank you for your help. This thread is such a great one!
Dehumidifiers do produce a lot of heat and are a PITA to use in tents, just send it back if it doesn't work. High humidity and PM are just consequences of a lack of adequate airflow/cold weather and dew, do you have an intake/exhaust fan in your room and plenty of fans to move air around? Were you removing excess runoff water below your pots? No I don't think plastic pots will lower the humidity in your room much, especially if you are increasing the size of your pots that will just be more water with potential to evaporate into the air.
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

I've been using the Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for a couple years, but always in fabric pots and never in plastic containers or bins.
I had mold (powdery mildew/botrytis/bud rot) during the last couple weeks of flower last time and I am looking to do everything in my power to stop this from happening again.
At the time, I purchased and tried a massive $300, 50-pint dehumidifier and all it did was heat up the room like a mofo and it didn't remove any moisture! (Frigidaire FAD504DWD)

I am thinking that the fabric pots are contributing to the high humidity issues since they breathe from all directions...? Could this be true?

I'm pondering about choosing 18 gallon plastic totes to grow in this time, rather than 7.5 gallon smart pots. I know there will be more soil, but with a thick layer of mulch and plastic walls to the container, I'm thinking that it'll improve the high humidity issues. These 18 gallon containers would be my largest pots yet and I plan to run them true no-til style (I haven't actually re-used soil before - I make a new batch each time, but I want to change that this time...)

Also, I planning on using Blumats too, so I don't ever have water dripping from the pots and onto the floor.

Anyone else here have issues with powedery mildew or botrytis in ROLS? Do you think plastic pots will keep less moisture in the air?

Thank you for your help. This thread is such a great one!
Dehumidifiers do produce a lot of heat and are a PITA to use in tents, just send it back if it doesn't work. High humidity and PM are just consequences of a lack of adequate airflow/cold weather and dew, do you have an intake/exhaust fan in your room and plenty of fans to move air around? Were you removing excess runoff water below your pots? No I don't think plastic pots will lower the humidity in your room much, especially if you are increasing the size of your pots that will just be more water with potential to evaporate into the air.
SIP .
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

I've been using the Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for a couple years, but always in fabric pots and never in plastic containers or bins.
I had mold (powdery mildew/botrytis/bud rot) during the last couple weeks of flower last time and I am looking to do everything in my power to stop this from happening again.
At the time, I purchased and tried a massive $300, 50-pint dehumidifier and all it did was heat up the room like a mofo and it didn't remove any moisture! (Frigidaire FAD504DWD)

I am thinking that the fabric pots are contributing to the high humidity issues since they breathe from all directions...? Could this be true?

I'm pondering about choosing 18 gallon plastic totes to grow in this time, rather than 7.5 gallon smart pots. I know there will be more soil, but with a thick layer of mulch and plastic walls to the container, I'm thinking that it'll improve the high humidity issues. These 18 gallon containers would be my largest pots yet and I plan to run them true no-til style (I haven't actually re-used soil before - I make a new batch each time, but I want to change that this time...)

Also, I planning on using Blumats too, so I don't ever have water dripping from the pots and onto the floor.

Anyone else here have issues with powedery mildew or botrytis in ROLS? Do you think plastic pots will keep less moisture in the air?

Thank you for your help. This thread is such a great one!
I run my dehums in the room I intake from and also in the room I exhaust in, I dont run dehumidifiers in the flower room nor the veg room.
 

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
So I called and visited a few stores today to purchase some amendments and mixed up 60 gallons of the good stuff but no one carried pumice. Do any of you know of a chain store/website that offers it for a reasonable price? Would prefer to purchase it locally but will order online if necessary.. Thanks!
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
So I called and visited a few stores today to purchase some amendments and mixed up 60 gallons of the good stuff but no one carried pumice. Do any of you know of a chain store/website that offers it for a reasonable price? Would prefer to purchase it locally but will order online if necessary.. Thanks!
feed & farm store sell "DryStall" 100% pumice mined pure no additives 40 lb bag goes for $12.oo around here .
used to keep horses from slipping on wet hard surfaces
most if not all Tack & Feed supplies have it
1/4-3/8" screened
 

DesertGrow89

Well-Known Member
feed & farm store sell "DryStall" 100% pumice mined pure no additives 40 lb bag goes for $12.oo around here .
used to keep horses from slipping on wet hard surfaces
most if not all Tack & Feed supplies have it
1/4-3/8" screened
Lol. It's funny you say that because the stores were Wilco and two farm and feed stores. Found a store that carries turface for $21/50lbs are any no tillers out there using it? I know that it doesn't break down for years unlike perlite which turns into sand..

Thank You!
 
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