Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Just stay away from the Kellogg's products. They use human sewage. Full of birth control, other prescription medicine and??? They labeled it as sludge at first, but now they are allowed to call it organic compost! Another bad product is Ironite - they collect it from a Superfund cleanup site. It is also full of lead, mercury, arsenic... Made me so angry. I have used it in my garden for years as an iron supplement :(
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
My brothers buddy has an alpaca farm. Using that guano alone doesn't have much npk but turns plants into ninjas. The apple tree we had. The apples would flip upside down after a guano tea of alpaca. All the mj plants leaves would point so vertical it was rediculous.

Alpacas are funny looking too. They look like llamas with the head of a teddy bear.
 

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
Alpaca and rabbit manure are the ONLY animal manures that you can use raw, and it will not burn your plants.

The stuff I got smelled good actually, and heated up very nicely after being heaped into a pile for short term storage.
 

jstone1633

Well-Known Member
I was also going to throw in a bag of mushroom compost too. Barky Beaver brand to be exact. Would the equine compost be worth it? Is one type better than the other? I was going to use both for the variety. Neither one is that expensive but money is still money. Im trying to build a soil to save money so theres no sense in putting anything in it that won't really benefit it.

Thanks again for any input.
 

yankeegreen

Active Member
Got my hands dirty this weekend and put together my first few batches for indoor and outdoor use. I started with Cootz's recipe (from icmag, slightly modified) as follows:

About 8 cu/ft batches, using 5 gal buckets:


3.0 buckets peat
2.0 bucket vegetable/kitchen compost
1.0 bucket grass clipping compost
3.0 buckets perlite


1.5 cups Neem meal
0.5 cups Karanja meal
2.0 cups Kelp meal
2.0 cups Crab meal
1.0 cup Alfalfa meal
1.0 cup oyster shell
16 cups rock dust


I've got a 40 gal trash pail with one batch fermenting/cooking/composting and mixed up another 2 batches for a 4x4 outdoor vegetable garden. If all goes well, I'll expand the veggie plot next spring.

IMG_9706.jpg IMG_9707.jpg IMG_9708.jpg
 

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
I'm getting a couple of my outdoor beds ready as well..

LOVING my front yard right now as its exploding with white clover, red clover, dandelions and various perennial grasses and herbs.

Anyone with access to a lawn can make really cool home made plant meal very easily...

Simply mow your lawn (that hopefully has LOTS of Clover, Alfalfa, Dandelion and other herbs sown in because...why not!) collect the clippings, and thinly spread them out on a trap, or in this case, I just used my raised beds and sun dry them for a day or two depending. Let them dry just to the point of crispiness while there still nice and green..

Beds.jpg Clover meal.jpg









Then, I just raked them up, and into a 5 gallon bucket: (dont mind the little bits of perlite/coco)

Clover meal 2.jpg

And crushed it up with my hands..(it should powder up pretty easily)

Clover meal 3.jpg

This clover/grass/dandelion meal can now be stored for use indoors/outdoors, for topdressing, teas and also worm food/bedding.

I also managed to gather quite a bit of Dandelions for topdressing a couple of the big outdoor beds...

Dandelion Topdress.jpg

And made some tea with the flower heads...(I added an airstone after the photo, its always good to aerate your herbal teas..)

Dandelion Tea.jpg


Peace everyone!

Happy Spring!

Pray.jpg

Rising Moon
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I found a patch of dandelions today. Half were dead, no flowers and still standing. The ones with flowers the center pollen area is brown. All the seed pods were brown on both. Looking like its towards the end of its life. Would either of these work for top dress mulch? Or are they too far gone?
 

Stoned Drifter

Well-Known Member
finally got my no till soil done today.
doing a small grow. my box is 2'lx1.5'wx2.5'h

base mix added up to 1.5 cf
33% a brick of coco
33% lava rock
33% llama compost and EWC

to that i added
neem meal 3/4 cup
kelp meal 3/4 cup
crab meal 3/4 cup
alfalfa meal 1/2 cup
gypsum 3/4 cup
Mineral mix of rock dust, soft rock phosphate powder and oyster shell flour 4 cups

watered it with some molasses.

i found aloe vera gel at target by up and up for $3.50. works great!
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
I found a patch of dandelions today. Half were dead, no flowers and still standing. The ones with flowers the center pollen area is brown. All the seed pods were brown on both. Looking like its towards the end of its life. Would either of these work for top dress mulch? Or are they too far gone?
are you using the flowers for a topdress? I just use the greens....so assuming the dandelion still has some green leaves you're good to go...

double check that there is no danger of pesticides/pollution in the area - you can never be too safe in that regard. public parks can be danger for wild foraging...unfortunately
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
are you using the flowers for a topdress? I just use the greens....so assuming the dandelion still has some green leaves you're good to go...

double check that there is no danger of pesticides/pollution in the area - you can never be too safe in that regard. public parks can be danger for wild foraging...unfortunately

Yes on the top.dress. There is some green on the ones with flowers. They grow wild on an empty lot between a house and a church. kind of in the ghetto . though. There are a bunch of frogs in the moat runoff below. There is some nature there.
 

jubiare

Active Member
Cann



Potassium Silicate - whyforhuh?


Ok I am posting this as educational and present it for enlightenment purposes only. Gardening is based in personal preference and in my “purist” view...


:idea:***ORGANIC IS LIKE PREGNANT YOU EITHER ARE OR YOU AREN'T!***:idea:


My main friendly point here is that medicine and foods marketed as organic should be produced with 100% naturally occurring inputs materials, specifically ones created by natural earth/life forces at ambient pressures and temperatures. :idea:(Not chemically synthesized substitutes or analogs, no matter how identically they break down once in solution.) I strongly believe that plants and their helper microbes are far more in tune and sensitive to their environment than we can even conceive! Why else would the same cut taste so much flatter in hydro, tho it may yield more dry weight?


So I finally found a highly informative and very well cited document created byNational Organic Standards Board Technical Advisory Panel Review
compiled by University of California Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (UC SAREP) for the USDA National Organic Program



link to the clencher here: http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5057629


I refer to this article as the clencher because it has tons of great supporting info and concludes that:


“Concluding remarks
Clearly, potassium silicate is a synthetic because, although the potassium carbonate and sand are mined, they require very high temperature treatment to form potassium silicate, and therefore a significant contribution of fossil fuel or fossil fuel replacement energy.
As a fertilizer, potassium silicate is highly soluble (generally a trait that puts a material in the prohibited grouping) and ‘jolts’ the soil with a rapid release of nutrients, even though the effects of a rapid availability of potassium and silica is not believed to have nearly as profound an impact as other materials such as sodium nitrate (an allowed non-synthetic material, with restrictions). As a source of potassium or silicate for soil fertility, there are several effective non-synthetic, low soluble alternatives (lack of alternatives can mitigate other prohibited traits). Although synthetic silicates of metallic micronutrients have been allowed, they are not allowed as a source of silica, and probably should remain so: the reason for allowing these synthetic metallic silicates is the lack of acceptable materials, not that they are compatible with organic philosophy. The weight of the above evidence puts potassium silicate as a fertilizer in the prohibited column.
As a fungicide, the same concerns about synthetics are present. However the amounts used are much smaller, there is no ‘jolt’ to the soil and, most importantly, effective alternatives are not available. Unfortunately, there is not convincing evidence that potassium silicate will be even as effective as the alternatives, and its mode of action is not understood. These are important considerations. Sulfur and copper are allowed synthetics because, although they have some non-target toxicity and environmental troubles, they have a well-understood mode of action and breakdown products, have been used by organic farmers for a long time, and are proven effective. Potassium silicate does not have significant non-target toxicities, environmental risks or breakdown products, but does have a poorly understood mode of action, a short history of use, and has not been proven widely effective.
Recommendations to the NOSB:
The substance should be listed as a prohibited synthetic on the National List.
However, I encourage the NOSB to reassess the material, perhaps as a restricted synthetic fungicide if, in the future, the mode of action becomes better understood, and much more significant and widespread effectiveness as a fungicide is proved.”



Also here is how MANY listing organizations view potassium silicate:
“Status
Potassium silicate is not listed in the Final Rule. Synthetic silicates of zinc, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, selenium, and cobalt are allowed as micronutrient plant or soil amendments in cases of documented soil deficiency (§205.601(j)(6)(ii)). In processing applications, silicon dioxide (SiO2) is an allowed synthetic.
Certification
Domestic certifiers
California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) Certification Handbook – Not listed (CCOF 2000).
Idaho Department of Agriculture (ISDA) Organic Food Products Rules – Not listed (Section 02.06.33, 2000).
Texas Department of Agriculture (TDA) Organic Certification and Standards Materials List – Not listed. For processing, allows

silicon dioxide as a floating agent (2000).
Washington Department of Agriculture (WSDA) Organic Crop Production Standards – Not listed (WAC 16-154-070, 2000). Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) Generic Materials List – Not listed (2002).”

We all know the state certifiers are tougher than bushy’s watered down fed rules too!




Ok thats their stance, here is my take. I will also cite some of the above linked Review because I know not all will take the time to read it wholly.

#1 issue is patient health. When it comes to my own and my patients health I strictly stand by the precautionary principle. Just because something isn’t proven to be bad, does not mean it can’t do harm.

Keep in mind that our crop is traditionally consumed by burning and inhaling cannabis flowers and extracts.:idea:

In the production section:
“Applications of potassium silicate pose a risk primarily from inhalation or ingestion of silica-rich compounds. Respiratory problems in the agricultural sector due to inhaled dust are a proven concern (Schenker 2000). Decades ago, it was shown that dust arising from storage and handling of wheat grains contained particles that were believed to cause respiratory ailments (Baker 1961). Burning of high-silica crops, such as rice and sugarcane, have been problematic for worker health in the past (Boeniger et al. 1988). There is also significant indirect evidence linking ingested plant silica and human cancer (Sangster et al. 1983, Bhatt et al. 1984, Hodson et al. 1994), but there currently is no connection between plant silica and inorganic silica sources. Mitigation of health risks associated with respiration of silica-laden dust can be achieved though proper use of personal protective equipment including a NIOSH-approved dust respirator where dust occurs."

"No carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, or developmental toxicity data are available for potassium silicate.”

OBVIOUSLY avoid inhaling the dust (dry formulas or crusty lids!) But what happens when we burn synth silica grown meds and inhale them?:idea: Heres more...

From page 3/4, Production section:
“Silicon impregnates along epidermal cell walls (Parry and Smithson 1964). These layers become effective barriers against water loss and fungal infection (Sangster 1970, Takeoka et al 1984). Silicon is also deposited in xylem vessel cell walls, preventing constriction of xylem under high transpiration stress (Raven 1983), and in endodermal root cells, where it acts as a barrier against infection of the stele by parasites and pathogens (Bennett 1982). Although there appears to be a relationship between silicate treatments, resistance to fungal attack, and expression of plant defense mechanisms (Cherif et al 1992), a concurrent study (Cherif et al 1992a) showed that accumulation and polymerization of silica at fungal infection sites has no role in providing a physical barrier against fungal attack. Further evidence points to the accumulation of silica in the trichomes of fruit as a possible barrier (Samuels et al 1993).

Si is deposited throughout the plant as it grows. Save for the roots, all of the above (epidermal cells, xylem walls, and of course Trichomes) bolded plant parts are smoked as parts of the flowers! I DO NOT use potassium silicate just in case this burned and inhaled deposited Si is harming our lungs!!! I’ll trade higher health for dry weight any day!:idea::idea::idea:


#2 issue is environmental health (global and garden environment)
Potassium silicate is NOT a naturally occurring compound. It takes excessive temperatures and pressures ie A LOT of fossil fuel derived energy and carbon dioxide emissions to produce. It is also extremely alkaline and may disrupt nutrient cycling and microbes in our containers.

“How Made:
Potassium silicates are manufactured using a calcination process that combines silica sand (SiO2) and potassium carbonate (K2CO3) at 1100-2300°F for up to 15 minutes (NOP Petition; Rawlyk and McDonald 2001). The two substances fuse into glass, which can be dissolved with high-pressure steam to form a clear, slightly viscous fluid, or cooled and ground into a powder. Carbon dioxide is evolved from this reaction. The solution can be dried to form hydrous powder crystals of potassium silicate.” p.2 of link
It is an acid salt which “highly soluble (generally a trait that puts a material in the prohibited grouping) and ‘jolts’ the soil with a rapid release of nutrients,” which in itself may have negative consequences to our microbes. Additionally the material is highly alkaline and known to “damage aquatic life systems” due to this. Carefully monitor your pH when using this stuff or you are guaranteed killing plant surface/soil microbial life!

Plenty of Substitutes: (to get Si as a nutrient)

“Where Si amendments are needed, a number of agricultural products high in silica may be used to supplement soil reserves. These range from field trash, such as rice hulls and sugarcane bagasse, to shells from aquatic animals. Where agricultural solutions are not available or practical, the use of glauconite is a viable alternative. Glauconite is a composite mineral of hydrated iron-potassium silicates (7% K2O, 54% SiO2). The mineral is mined from naturally occurring sedimentary deposits known as greensand, and has an established history of use as a natural soil conditioner. The substance is commercially available and OMRI-listed.”


#3 issue its just another bottle from the grow shop!
Isn’t that what we are moving past with higher/real living organics? To me saying that a side by side comparison with a synthetic additive to an organic garden is enough, falls short. Ya, I bet your synth Si uptake souped “organic” plants will grow “better” than the non-treated organic plants in the test. Too bad that you threw the baby out with the bathwater for me (based on my personal “purist” definition and “high bar” for true organics) and your garden is now “organic” (organic based is a nice giant category your "organic" garden now falls into) as opposed to actually being 100% living organic. Grow how you want, but IMO you are misleading folks just like the rev if you start to pick and choose which synthetic bottles/products are “legit” in your “organic garden”. (Rev at least uses no synth bottles!)
To each his own tho, greenwashing is a major pet peeve of mine since college. What variable we are comparing also needs mention: most growers fixate on yield of dry weight, to me resin quality and purity are the main objectives. We all yield good, but not every experienced grower’s product tastes good and is free from tainting by the industrial world we create/live in.
:idea:




Sorry for the long post. I tend to delve into my research and just wanted to share!
^^^ I hear you on the silica.
What could be tried out is horsetail extract/powder/herb, organic one and the best product has to be found. I might purchase some and maybe do a comparison with the potassium silicate

On a general note
Greetings to you all
This thread has to go sticky no way!
 

jubiare

Active Member
Bamboo Silica vs. Horsetail Silica

The first silica available was from the herb horsetail which offers only 5-8% silica, whereas bamboo provides 70% silica.

But than, it is apparently not soluble in water? At least some powder I found.. I'll keep researching this.. Not sure whether it's worth it
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
theoretically how much botanicals (horsetail etc) would one need to amend into the soil to provide "enough silica"
 

headtreep

Well-Known Member
I posted several pics of this on this thread so I thought I would post my last until shit goes down.




Last update on Gogi OG before chop.
 

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
theoretically how much botanicals (horsetail etc) would one need to amend into the soil to provide "enough silica"
I would generally say, 1-2 tbs of botanicals per gallon of soil would be more than enough, but I can also see adding much more.

I also add French Green Clay, from Mountain Rose Herbs, at about 1 tbs per gallon of soil, and this has 50% silica as well as many other minerals, and clay is also a soil/nutrient binder and humus builder.
 

fattiemcnuggins

Well-Known Member
used teabags are good for compost right?

Also what are some preventatives you guys use?

I know I like apple cider vinegar for PM prevention. Along with neem oil. Insecticidal soap, nematodes, shrimp shells.

any recipes for a good oreventative bug spray, like rosemary garlic and mint maybe?
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
thanks RM. im guessing these botanicals can be added to a relatively rich mix without worrying about overdoing it?


fattie; fresh cilantro made into a tea is a great bug spray. and ya those te bags will break down with everything else. i toss my coffe grinds with the filter in my pile
 

Rising Moon

Well-Known Member
The only thing I have seen when I went really heavy on the topdress with dried botanicals was white fuzzy mold.

This could be avoided by thoroughly mixing the herbs in with the soil, and using smaller amounts in succession throughout the season.

The worms in your mix will love these powdered and dried herbs, and I consider them to be my "slow release" fertilizer.
 
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