Hygrozyme in hydro is a real bad idea bro, especially if you have a root issue to begin with, if you use it you better keep a real close eye on your rez, it will turn to muck REAL fast!
RDWC - don't want root rot ! Can I just use DNF Sparkle or should I make Tea?
- Thread starter Manofculture
- Start date
nameno
Well-Known Member
Good Morning,Good looking first grow!
Post #7 gave you a good answer,I never seen him be wrong,if you ever have a tough problem find him.SS1
One year there was a grow in coffee can competition,I wrapped mine in duct tape,it was cooler. I like to play around.
I like to grow 12x12 fs. It's a barrel of fun for me.Peace
Post #7 gave you a good answer,I never seen him be wrong,if you ever have a tough problem find him.SS1
One year there was a grow in coffee can competition,I wrapped mine in duct tape,it was cooler. I like to play around.
I like to grow 12x12 fs. It's a barrel of fun for me.Peace
Compatak
Member
Cool, I'll be watching for the pics. That sounds like a winner to me. When I expand I "WILL" need to do something diff and I think that will work out very well. That a/c window unit is working for now but with more lights and a larger area I'm not so sure it will be enough.
What is the Fulvic acid foliar?
Compatak
Member
Ok thanks, I will keep a close eye on it anyway. I added it the other day and I'll post to how it works out.
joe blow greenthumb
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the arguing all. I hate rude people who find my faults all while showing theirs. Ill
stop. Then end.
stop. Then end.
Compatak
Member
Wasting Co2
If anybody is using Co2 with a mechanical timer for it and your fans your more than likely wasting Co2 because the mechanical timers will not stay in sink. I kept fixing them but every few days they would be out of sink again. And when that happens the Co2 is blowing right back out with the fans.
I found a cheap fix for that. I built what I call a relay box. Now when one switches on the other automatically switches off and so on. If you want to know how it's built let me know and I'll fill ya in. It's real easy to build and costs about $35 for parts.
If anybody is using Co2 with a mechanical timer for it and your fans your more than likely wasting Co2 because the mechanical timers will not stay in sink. I kept fixing them but every few days they would be out of sink again. And when that happens the Co2 is blowing right back out with the fans.
I found a cheap fix for that. I built what I call a relay box. Now when one switches on the other automatically switches off and so on. If you want to know how it's built let me know and I'll fill ya in. It's real easy to build and costs about $35 for parts.
Manofculture
Active Member
@legallyflying, looks really nice man. I have to ask, with the screen do you keep tucking the plant underneath or do you just let it grow? Is the screen used for scrog or only for support, I also noticed you raised the screen as the plant grew, what type of style of training is this?
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
It's called the "grow as many big fucking buds as the plant can handle" style. LOL
Its really just a scrog, I do move the screen up a little at a time depending on what is going on.
Essentially what the goal is, is to have a nice even canopy, this starts early with topping above the first 4 nodes to create a 4 main stalk plant. Now from then on, its all about shifting the growth hormones between the growing tops. There are a bunch of different hormones at play here but the most common quoted one is auxin. Auxins are involved in just about everything in the plant. But the important thing is apical dominance.
Auxin is produced in the apical (highest on the plant) bud and is trans-located down the plant. This trans-location will suppress the growth of lateral shoots below the apical bud. This is why when you top a plant, suddenly there is no auxins to supress lower growth and all the shoots explode. Same thing if your dumb ass neighbor thinks his tree is too tall and cuts the top off, BOOM, now there are a million branches shooting to the sky.
Anywho, the important thing to remember is that the highest shoot wants to grow higher and suppress the lower shoots. So to even out the plant, I tuck or tie the highest shoot lower than the other shoots. This happens from about the second week. When another shoot becomes dominant than I pull that one down and let the other go up. Its a cat and mouse game kind of. Tieing stems down to the container or whatever is a major PIA, and that is why I just lower the screen. I generally cut off any lateral branches that come of the 4 main branches.. or at least the first 3-4. They just become this super long branches that start near the base of the plant and have to travel all the way to the scrog screen. In the end, all that active transport of nutes through a smaller stem = mediocore bud development.
Once the plants start getting big I pretty much set the screen at the desired height which is precisely calculated so that I don't run out of room by the end of the grow and also gives my the 2' that I want the light above them for the last week-week 1/2. That formula is (height of hood) + 24" (space between hood and plants) + 1 foot (height of plants above the screen). So I take that measurement from the ceiling and set my screen there.. more or less.
Then its a matter of tucking the big shoots under the screen and pulling the lowers up. I try to plot it out so that the bigger stems come up closer to the bulb side of the hood (but not right under it). Then I continue to trim off ALL the little stems below the screen. When the screen is about half full.. maybe 3/4 I flip. Train through the flip but by the end of the second week, The tops are pretty much where I want them. You want the vast majorty of the buds about a foot or so above the screen. Any higher they flop over, any lower, it gets to be a fucking nightmare. I am growing indica dominant plants and I have a precisely controlled temp diff (day/night) so I don't get much stretch at all.
Then just let them grow. Trim off smaller flowers down below, double check airstones, mix EWC teas, and give them the super fantastic foliar sprays. About two weeks before harvest I aggressively get rid of fan leaves that are shading lower buds and therefore preventing them from getting the right color. There IS such a thing as TOO many buds in a scrog. IF they are touching they look yellow and shitty.
Then its harvest all the tops, trim, start to dry, then about a week later, cut all the lowers, trim, dry.
Scrub a dub dub, bleach, more scrubbing, put new plants in flower room.
Get a massage or two and start the whole process over again.
Worry about the feds busting my door down even though I am following all applicable state laws.
Its really just a scrog, I do move the screen up a little at a time depending on what is going on.
Essentially what the goal is, is to have a nice even canopy, this starts early with topping above the first 4 nodes to create a 4 main stalk plant. Now from then on, its all about shifting the growth hormones between the growing tops. There are a bunch of different hormones at play here but the most common quoted one is auxin. Auxins are involved in just about everything in the plant. But the important thing is apical dominance.
Auxin is produced in the apical (highest on the plant) bud and is trans-located down the plant. This trans-location will suppress the growth of lateral shoots below the apical bud. This is why when you top a plant, suddenly there is no auxins to supress lower growth and all the shoots explode. Same thing if your dumb ass neighbor thinks his tree is too tall and cuts the top off, BOOM, now there are a million branches shooting to the sky.
Anywho, the important thing to remember is that the highest shoot wants to grow higher and suppress the lower shoots. So to even out the plant, I tuck or tie the highest shoot lower than the other shoots. This happens from about the second week. When another shoot becomes dominant than I pull that one down and let the other go up. Its a cat and mouse game kind of. Tieing stems down to the container or whatever is a major PIA, and that is why I just lower the screen. I generally cut off any lateral branches that come of the 4 main branches.. or at least the first 3-4. They just become this super long branches that start near the base of the plant and have to travel all the way to the scrog screen. In the end, all that active transport of nutes through a smaller stem = mediocore bud development.
Once the plants start getting big I pretty much set the screen at the desired height which is precisely calculated so that I don't run out of room by the end of the grow and also gives my the 2' that I want the light above them for the last week-week 1/2. That formula is (height of hood) + 24" (space between hood and plants) + 1 foot (height of plants above the screen). So I take that measurement from the ceiling and set my screen there.. more or less.
Then its a matter of tucking the big shoots under the screen and pulling the lowers up. I try to plot it out so that the bigger stems come up closer to the bulb side of the hood (but not right under it). Then I continue to trim off ALL the little stems below the screen. When the screen is about half full.. maybe 3/4 I flip. Train through the flip but by the end of the second week, The tops are pretty much where I want them. You want the vast majorty of the buds about a foot or so above the screen. Any higher they flop over, any lower, it gets to be a fucking nightmare. I am growing indica dominant plants and I have a precisely controlled temp diff (day/night) so I don't get much stretch at all.
Then just let them grow. Trim off smaller flowers down below, double check airstones, mix EWC teas, and give them the super fantastic foliar sprays. About two weeks before harvest I aggressively get rid of fan leaves that are shading lower buds and therefore preventing them from getting the right color. There IS such a thing as TOO many buds in a scrog. IF they are touching they look yellow and shitty.
Then its harvest all the tops, trim, start to dry, then about a week later, cut all the lowers, trim, dry.
Scrub a dub dub, bleach, more scrubbing, put new plants in flower room.
Get a massage or two and start the whole process over again.
Worry about the feds busting my door down even though I am following all applicable state laws.
Manofculture
Active Member
Amazing info, question? When you cut the top to have 4 main stems, and you tie down the tallest one could you just tie down all 4 stems at one time?
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
No, because your trying to make four large stems that will become the major stems for the plant. Typically there is one (or maybe two... the upper two) stems that I tie down after topping the plant. These stems are on opposite sides of the plant so they are each heading towards each corner of the SCROG.
I only tie the taller one down so that the others will catch up.
Pictures of these 4 stems. See how there are NO branches that come off of them near the base of the plant. They are cut off as they will never really produce much. Just a waste of carbohydrates.
Does that make sense?
My pictures suck, I will TRY to take more tonight. feeling lazy though.
Compatak
Member
I'd like to see more on that chiller ya got going on there. I like the concept. I'm certified in A/C so understand how it works and I have about 12 years of 12vdc, 120vac and 220 behind me so i think I can build it with a little help.
Manofculture
Active Member
It makes sense 100%. The tying down can only be done with a screen or can I tie the two long stems down to the buckets? This is like uncle Bens topping technique with the training added?
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Please don't utter the phrase "uncle ben" in my presence.
COmpatak. pretty easy dude. Take the shell off of a dehu unit and CAREFULLY CAREFULLY CAREFULLY bend the cold radiator into a bucket, cooler, whatever. Then put a small pump in that cooler and have it pump water through a SS wort chiller than you can get on e-bay for about $50. You can not use copper pipe nor bend the (copper) cooling radiator directly into your rez. Copper will kill your plants deader than shit.
Now just plug (or directly wire) the Dehu into a temperature control switch. I use the ranco ETC-111000 baby! LOL, it is pretty slick. You can set it to turn on something for heating nor cooling, set the desired temperature and the deadband. Super easy. http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE
BUT, and this is a huge but, your dehumidifier has to have an auto start feature. meaning that after the power is off and you plug it in, it automatically starts. Otherwise the controller would not work.
ok? ok.
COmpatak. pretty easy dude. Take the shell off of a dehu unit and CAREFULLY CAREFULLY CAREFULLY bend the cold radiator into a bucket, cooler, whatever. Then put a small pump in that cooler and have it pump water through a SS wort chiller than you can get on e-bay for about $50. You can not use copper pipe nor bend the (copper) cooling radiator directly into your rez. Copper will kill your plants deader than shit.
Now just plug (or directly wire) the Dehu into a temperature control switch. I use the ranco ETC-111000 baby! LOL, it is pretty slick. You can set it to turn on something for heating nor cooling, set the desired temperature and the deadband. Super easy. http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE
BUT, and this is a huge but, your dehumidifier has to have an auto start feature. meaning that after the power is off and you plug it in, it automatically starts. Otherwise the controller would not work.
ok? ok.
Manofculture
Active Member
Never again - and I won't ask. With the 4 main stems (2 are bigger) can you tie them down without a screen , like tie them to the bucket or bend them? What would this technique be called (topping & ?). Respect for all the advice
Compatak
Member
Cool Man, Thanks. I just bought a new HPS light so I'm short on cash right now but I saved this to my desktop so I won't misplace it. Next month for sure.
How much water might this chill efficiently?
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Right now it keeps about 180 gallons at 67 degrees. Could probably keep it colder as it doesn't run all the time. How much it can chill depends on how big a dehu you have. I think that one is a 70pint? So it's equal to about a 3/4hp chiller
About the training, you can tie it down to anything, doesn't really need to be under a screen.
There isn't any fancy name, it's just training. I guess you could call it LST, but whatever. That's like saying "use the uncle Ben technique". Which is simply topping the plant....what a revolutionary idea. LOL
Do whatever you can do to keep the branches the same thickness and height. That will gue you a nice even canopy of larger buds.
Peace
About the training, you can tie it down to anything, doesn't really need to be under a screen.
There isn't any fancy name, it's just training. I guess you could call it LST, but whatever. That's like saying "use the uncle Ben technique". Which is simply topping the plant....what a revolutionary idea. LOL
Do whatever you can do to keep the branches the same thickness and height. That will gue you a nice even canopy of larger buds.
Peace
Compatak
Member
This is my first grow so let me know what ya think and any successions appreciated.
I know the pictures kinda suck but I thought I'd post a couple pics of my little lady's. I took them with my cell phone so I don't know if you can see them very well but I thought I'd try.
There are only 3 total on the rt. Front tall one on the rt is lemon kush and the two short ones on the rt side in the rear are just bag seed. There is a scrawny looking 4th one on the left but I'm just messing with that one.
I know the pictures kinda suck but I thought I'd post a couple pics of my little lady's. I took them with my cell phone so I don't know if you can see them very well but I thought I'd try.
There are only 3 total on the rt. Front tall one on the rt is lemon kush and the two short ones on the rt side in the rear are just bag seed. There is a scrawny looking 4th one on the left but I'm just messing with that one.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
The one in the orangish picture does not look happy at all.
When the leaves curl down like that, with the white tips, your over feeding them.
If your running a strong solution, and you have low humidity (your gauge says 38%) then it's kind of like giving a marathon runner on a hot day an nice glass of salt water.
Dry and hot equals very high rates of transpiration. So it can be extra hard on a plant to have to deal with all the nutrients in solution when all they really "want" is to absorb water for cooling.
The tacoed leaves..the folded ones...are from heat.
When the leaves curl down like that, with the white tips, your over feeding them.
If your running a strong solution, and you have low humidity (your gauge says 38%) then it's kind of like giving a marathon runner on a hot day an nice glass of salt water.
Dry and hot equals very high rates of transpiration. So it can be extra hard on a plant to have to deal with all the nutrients in solution when all they really "want" is to absorb water for cooling.
The tacoed leaves..the folded ones...are from heat.
Compatak
Member
I was wondering about the heat being a problem. I don't think that this grow cabinet is going to work out. At the end of the day or the light cycle the water temp is staying about 70 but the over all temp inside will get up to about 90. Fot the most part the humidity will be about 55% but late in the day it goes down as the temp goes up.
As far as the nutes go I have been keeping them about 1400. I thought that would be about right.
Is that to high??