Hi Guys -
EC/TDS METERS
I am about to explain some things about TDS meters for ther newbs or someone that just begginging and having trouble understanding the different ratios involved in reading EC/TDS...
I firmly believe beginners blame the nutrients when they should blame "their" meters. A big example of a name brand that classified as being way to strong is advanced nutrients, which I find to be the best nutes out there, pricey, but very good...
Now about the ratios. .50 ppm, .64 ppm, .68 ppm and .70 ppm...
Hanna meter --- employ the .50 conversion ratio, however, the newer models, i believe the hanna 5 & 6 models, gives you the optioin of choosing/changing your own conversion, which is quite useful...
Eutech meter --- use .64 ppms
Milwaukee meter --- use .68 ppm
Truncheon meter --- use .70 (this one I prefer on my meter) (hanna phep5, changed ratio from .50 to .70
Oakton meters - not sure what ratio
Remember how I mentioned advanced nutrients? Their nutrient calculator uses the .70 conversion ratio, if im not mistaken... Since "Their" 1400 ppm mark is 2.0 EC... (Now using the chart below I supplied, you can point this out)...
So if your using .5 ratio, such as a hanna, 1000 ppm's on a hanna meter would actually be reading 1400 ppm on a truncheon, hence on AN's Nutrient Calculator...
DONT MIX TO 1400 PPM'S ON A .5 RATIO (HANNA METER) TO MATCH AN's recommened 1400 ppm peak on the calculotor, SINCE THIS WOULD ACTUALLY BE 1920 PPMS (2.8!!!! EC) ON THERE RATIO THEY USED TO MEASURE... SEE WHY PEOPLE SAY ADVANCED NUTRIENTS ARE SO STRONG, THEY MIX IT TO STRONG THEMSELVES...
Plus the added effect of not having RO water, like many newbies dont have, which another added 200-250 ppms generally is applied to your strength...
see the difference, but both meters, trucheon and hanna, are reading at 2.0 EC... but there at 1000 ppm and 1400 ppm, thers a big margin for errors and confusion, trust me, i know...
If you dont want to make any mistakes, id advise you use the EC option to measure your nute strength, not as precise but can't make a mistake since theres just EC's, and everybodys meter will read the same, 2.0 instead of being confusing such as the TDS option... But if you want to dot your T's, mmm, and be perfectionist , use TDS, just know what you are doing at what ratio...
Somebody saying they went all the way up to 1600 ppms, and you were just peaking at 1000, what are you doing you say to yourself... Well did you happen to check what sort of meter you guys use, it may just be the ratios... the 1600 ppm man just used a .70 ratio and you used a .50 ratio... so your 1100-1150 ppm's is just as high a his 1600 ppm's.. GET IT YET
NOW ABOUT THE ADVANCED NUTRIENTS CHART THINGY... REMEMBER THEY USE A .70 RATIO... NEWBS MIGHT NOT UNDERSTAND THIS AND OWN A .50 OR HANNA PEN, OR EVEN THE OTHER .64 (EUTECH) METERS... AND WHEN THEY GET TO THE POINT OF FLOWERING, YOU ADD THE "BIG BUD" AND "OVERDRIVE" PRODUCTS... HERE IS THE NUTE STRENGTH YOUR SUPPOSED TO GIVE THEM, WHICH IVE BEEN GIVEN...
week 2(50ppm bigbud)
week 3 (100ppm bigbud)
week 4 (200ppm bigbud)
week 5 (300ppm bigbud)
week 6(250ppm overdrive)
week 7(200ppm overdrive)
5ML OF BIG BUD = 300 PPM
*** NOT SURE WHAT METER OR RATIO WAS USED HERE... JUST AN EXAMPLE, BUT AN ACTUAL FEEDING SCHEDULE FOR THESE PRODUCT
NOW IF YOU DID THIS WITH "THEIR" .7 CONVERSION YOU SHOUD BE FINE, IF YOU ADDED ALL THE OTHER STUFF WITH IT CORRECLTY, BUT IF YOU HAVE A RATIO OF .5 YOU COULD HAVE SCREWED UP BIG TIME...
SAY YOU TRIED TO MEASURE THAT 150 PPMS WITH A HANNA (.5) YOU GET 210 PPMS "ACTUALLY...SINCE THEY USE A CONVERSION OF .70 to reach "their" 150 ppm... CONFUSING I KNOW... OR IF YOU TRIED TO MEASURE THAT 300 PPMS WITH THAT SAME HANNA (.5), YOU GET A WHOOPING 420 PPMS "ACTUALLY" INSTEAD OF GETTING THE 300 PPMS SHOOTING FOR...
EDIT: now think about it, you just added an extra 120 PPMs to your nutes, along with your tap water (200 ppms generally),that makes it an extra 320 ppms... i
f you think about, you just tecknically added a whole another dose of of big bud, technically... so you added 620 ppms actually, instead of the 300 ppms aiming for...
of course this will burn your plants, dont blame the nutrients name brand (ALTHOUGH AN HAS HIGHER CONCENTRATED FORMULAS), blame your ratio, check you ratio, and use the chart provided to self adjust to the proper streght, and get a RO sysytem, youll have healthier plants, bigger yeilds, etc
SO WHAT WOULD YOU NEED TO DO TO GET THE PROPER STRENGTH WITH A HANNA METER, WELL, TO GET THE 150 PPMS THEY SAY, YOU MEASURE 100-110 PPMS ON YOUR HANNA METER...THIS STUFF IS A BIG DEAL WHEN IT COMES TO BEGINNERS SINCE "YOU" OR "THEY" DONT EVEN OWN A REVERSE OSMOSIS FILTER, AND THIS ALSO ADDS UP PPMS ABOUT 200-250 PPMS USUALLY AND AN'S CHART IS BASED UPON USING RO WATER AS WELL
THIS IS MUCH AS I CAN THINK OF RIGHT NOW... THE CHART BELOW WILL HELP YOU GUIDE AND COMPARE SO MUCH BETTER THAN DESRIBING IT...
CRAP DONT KNOW HOW TO INSERT AN IMAGE... GET THIS TO YOU SOON...
EC/TDS METERS
I am about to explain some things about TDS meters for ther newbs or someone that just begginging and having trouble understanding the different ratios involved in reading EC/TDS...
I firmly believe beginners blame the nutrients when they should blame "their" meters. A big example of a name brand that classified as being way to strong is advanced nutrients, which I find to be the best nutes out there, pricey, but very good...
Now about the ratios. .50 ppm, .64 ppm, .68 ppm and .70 ppm...
Hanna meter --- employ the .50 conversion ratio, however, the newer models, i believe the hanna 5 & 6 models, gives you the optioin of choosing/changing your own conversion, which is quite useful...
Eutech meter --- use .64 ppms
Milwaukee meter --- use .68 ppm
Truncheon meter --- use .70 (this one I prefer on my meter) (hanna phep5, changed ratio from .50 to .70
Oakton meters - not sure what ratio
Remember how I mentioned advanced nutrients? Their nutrient calculator uses the .70 conversion ratio, if im not mistaken... Since "Their" 1400 ppm mark is 2.0 EC... (Now using the chart below I supplied, you can point this out)...
So if your using .5 ratio, such as a hanna, 1000 ppm's on a hanna meter would actually be reading 1400 ppm on a truncheon, hence on AN's Nutrient Calculator...
DONT MIX TO 1400 PPM'S ON A .5 RATIO (HANNA METER) TO MATCH AN's recommened 1400 ppm peak on the calculotor, SINCE THIS WOULD ACTUALLY BE 1920 PPMS (2.8!!!! EC) ON THERE RATIO THEY USED TO MEASURE... SEE WHY PEOPLE SAY ADVANCED NUTRIENTS ARE SO STRONG, THEY MIX IT TO STRONG THEMSELVES...
Plus the added effect of not having RO water, like many newbies dont have, which another added 200-250 ppms generally is applied to your strength...
see the difference, but both meters, trucheon and hanna, are reading at 2.0 EC... but there at 1000 ppm and 1400 ppm, thers a big margin for errors and confusion, trust me, i know...
If you dont want to make any mistakes, id advise you use the EC option to measure your nute strength, not as precise but can't make a mistake since theres just EC's, and everybodys meter will read the same, 2.0 instead of being confusing such as the TDS option... But if you want to dot your T's, mmm, and be perfectionist , use TDS, just know what you are doing at what ratio...
Somebody saying they went all the way up to 1600 ppms, and you were just peaking at 1000, what are you doing you say to yourself... Well did you happen to check what sort of meter you guys use, it may just be the ratios... the 1600 ppm man just used a .70 ratio and you used a .50 ratio... so your 1100-1150 ppm's is just as high a his 1600 ppm's.. GET IT YET
NOW ABOUT THE ADVANCED NUTRIENTS CHART THINGY... REMEMBER THEY USE A .70 RATIO... NEWBS MIGHT NOT UNDERSTAND THIS AND OWN A .50 OR HANNA PEN, OR EVEN THE OTHER .64 (EUTECH) METERS... AND WHEN THEY GET TO THE POINT OF FLOWERING, YOU ADD THE "BIG BUD" AND "OVERDRIVE" PRODUCTS... HERE IS THE NUTE STRENGTH YOUR SUPPOSED TO GIVE THEM, WHICH IVE BEEN GIVEN...
week 2(50ppm bigbud)
week 3 (100ppm bigbud)
week 4 (200ppm bigbud)
week 5 (300ppm bigbud)
week 6(250ppm overdrive)
week 7(200ppm overdrive)
5ML OF BIG BUD = 300 PPM
*** NOT SURE WHAT METER OR RATIO WAS USED HERE... JUST AN EXAMPLE, BUT AN ACTUAL FEEDING SCHEDULE FOR THESE PRODUCT
NOW IF YOU DID THIS WITH "THEIR" .7 CONVERSION YOU SHOUD BE FINE, IF YOU ADDED ALL THE OTHER STUFF WITH IT CORRECLTY, BUT IF YOU HAVE A RATIO OF .5 YOU COULD HAVE SCREWED UP BIG TIME...
SAY YOU TRIED TO MEASURE THAT 150 PPMS WITH A HANNA (.5) YOU GET 210 PPMS "ACTUALLY...SINCE THEY USE A CONVERSION OF .70 to reach "their" 150 ppm... CONFUSING I KNOW... OR IF YOU TRIED TO MEASURE THAT 300 PPMS WITH THAT SAME HANNA (.5), YOU GET A WHOOPING 420 PPMS "ACTUALLY" INSTEAD OF GETTING THE 300 PPMS SHOOTING FOR...
EDIT: now think about it, you just added an extra 120 PPMs to your nutes, along with your tap water (200 ppms generally),that makes it an extra 320 ppms... i
f you think about, you just tecknically added a whole another dose of of big bud, technically... so you added 620 ppms actually, instead of the 300 ppms aiming for...
of course this will burn your plants, dont blame the nutrients name brand (ALTHOUGH AN HAS HIGHER CONCENTRATED FORMULAS), blame your ratio, check you ratio, and use the chart provided to self adjust to the proper streght, and get a RO sysytem, youll have healthier plants, bigger yeilds, etc
SO WHAT WOULD YOU NEED TO DO TO GET THE PROPER STRENGTH WITH A HANNA METER, WELL, TO GET THE 150 PPMS THEY SAY, YOU MEASURE 100-110 PPMS ON YOUR HANNA METER...THIS STUFF IS A BIG DEAL WHEN IT COMES TO BEGINNERS SINCE "YOU" OR "THEY" DONT EVEN OWN A REVERSE OSMOSIS FILTER, AND THIS ALSO ADDS UP PPMS ABOUT 200-250 PPMS USUALLY AND AN'S CHART IS BASED UPON USING RO WATER AS WELL
THIS IS MUCH AS I CAN THINK OF RIGHT NOW... THE CHART BELOW WILL HELP YOU GUIDE AND COMPARE SO MUCH BETTER THAN DESRIBING IT...
CRAP DONT KNOW HOW TO INSERT AN IMAGE... GET THIS TO YOU SOON...
