R strip Samsung horticultural

astonehead

Well-Known Member
Could be to do with the different sammy diodes on the strips, h, red, far red needing slightly differing voltages and the resistors balance the strings out?
I can't see it being a bad thing. A belt and braces approach, to be sure to be sure... lol
As you were saying an email to them will get the answer for sure.
It’s in their boards as well so as you say probably just a sure to be sure lol, il ask him
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
These are doing pretty good even just in veg, growth is good and plants seem happy and drinking well again. No complaints here. Back one is a clone from my jaffabone f2 I’m flowering and front is a bloody berries tester from bud doctor from seed

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10WeekFlushBro

Well-Known Member
That's what it has to be in order for their site info to be correct. If you run the numbers you find that they are the same voltage everywhere. I was confused about this and considered mailing them about it.
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
That's what it has to be in order for their site info to be correct. If you run the numbers you find that they are the same voltage everywhere. I was confused about this and considered mailing them about it.
Guys any concerns just drop a message they really won’t mind, they are so helpful I just ordered 4 150 boards with the 301H can’t wait for them to arrive
 

s0me0ne

Well-Known Member
That's what it has to be in order for their site info to be correct. If you run the numbers you find that they are the same voltage everywhere. I was confused about this and considered mailing them about it.
Guys any concerns just drop a message they really won’t mind, they are so helpful I just ordered 4 150 boards with the 301H can’t wait for them to arrive
i did email them and i got the answer that it is ruuning 28.5v with every current
i want to order the drivers but afraid to make mistake
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
i did email them and i got the answer that it is ruuning 28.5v with every current
i want to order the drivers but afraid to make mistake
It may be to do with the use of resistors. Obviously normally the voltage would rise with the current. But we don't often see resistors been used though some say they always should be, I suppose it depends on how certain one is that the didodes are well matched voltage wise.
What driver are you planning on with how many strips?
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
i did email them and i got the answer that it is ruuning 28.5v with every current
i want to order the drivers but afraid to make mistake
That 28.5v should be at the max rated current of 2100mA so running soft would probably shave a volt off.
Shouldn't be a problem.

Im not an expert at these things though.
 

s0me0ne

Well-Known Member
It may be to do with the use of resistors. Obviously normally the voltage would rise with the current. But we don't often see resistors been used though some say they always should be, I suppose it depends on how certain one is that the didodes are well matched voltage wise.
What driver are you planning on with how many strips?
thx for the info and ye that what i was thinking but i always need second opinion
i was planing to use hlg 600
the 30 or the 54 with 16 strips
it will not run them on full power so i was thinking to like 2 in series and 8 in parallel for the 54v driver so like each strip will get 27v
or the 30v driver and 16 strips in parallel still the current will limit the voltage cuz thay will not run of full only like 1.2amp +- each strips and on there page the max is 2.1amp
now that thay said its always 28.5 the 54v option is down
but it adds more questions like what will happen if ill only give 28v will the strips not power ?
or if ill give 30v there should be problem the ressistors will limit the voltage to 28.5 right?
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
The type A driver has a voltage adjustment. Plus the drivers have a range and will put in what is needed. But yeah I get your point on the 54v driver, even adjusted up it goes to 56.7v and if indeed the strips always go 28.5v then its out of range for series parallel wiring.
@Randomblame would know more about how the resistors change things, so would welight but asking him seems a bit cheeky.
 

s0me0ne

Well-Known Member
The type A driver has a voltage adjustment. Plus the drivers have a range and will put in what is needed. But yeah I get your point on the 54v driver, even adjusted up it goes to 56.7v and if indeed the strips always go 28.5v then its out of range for series parallel wiring.
@Randomblame would know more about how the resistors change things, so would welight but asking him seems a bit cheeky.
Ye and if the voltage drops then 54 will be the better option because its will better use the strips
Ill get more out of them
With the 30v ill lose some usage
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
I got myself 4 ish150301H boards aswell to replace my Chinese boards that do pretty well, hopefully yield stays up and quality should improve as well, just need to get the light down which is not easy at day 40 of flower :D
These will join 8 cxb3590 and 1 vero 1750k. So my whole rig except the vero is 3000k 90cri, I may put the cree back in the middle to make it even all the way through

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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
They use current limiting resistors to even out the current flow on each of the separate strings on the strips. That reduces the risk to get thermal runaways. Even within one voltage bin the voltage can differ within 0,1v. A diode the need 2,66v gets a 2,7v tag but a diode with 2,74v would get the same tag. If there would be one sting of diodes made from 2,65v diodes and another string would have only 2,74v diodes you would get uneven brightness. The side with the lower voltage would get more current, heat up more, use even more current, heat up more, ... and boom, thermal runaways.

But thermal runaways are usually not a problem! We run the diodes usually on a lower current to get better efficiency and the drivers used have simply not enough current to destroy the diodes with too much current flow.

Even with the resistors you can still use both types of drivers, CV/CC or CC. They even recommend HLG C models. An HLG-600H-30A or B(to stay with the example above) would anyway switch in CC mode when the circuit voltage is lower like its nominal voltage(30v). Its CC region is 15-30v and when used to drive a number of these strips in parallel the driver would reduce the circuot voltage to 28,5v to still deliver its full current flow.(20amps + ~8%).
This driver has 2 parallel outputs and you could use 8 in parallel on each side. But because if its a CV/CC model it will also run in CC mode.

The circuits on the most strips are usually series-parallel circuits so even if we power them with constant current there leaves a risk to get thermal runaways. But with todays diodes the differences are so low that the risk is very low. If it wouild really be problematic we would have seen much more damaged Sammy and Blux strips. So IMO its not neccessary to use current limiting resisitors they only cause additional costs. There are enough CC drivers available and even CC stips can be driven with a CV driver when you run them in parallel.
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
They use current limiting resistors to even out the current flow on each of the separate strings on the strips. That reduces the risk to get thermal runaways. Even within one voltage bin the voltage can differ within 0,1v. A diode the need 2,66v gets a 2,7v tag but a diode with 2,74v would get the same tag. If there would be one sting of diodes made from 2,65v diodes and another string would have only 2,74v diodes you would get uneven brightness. The side with the lower voltage would get more current, heat up more, use even more current, heat up more, ... and boom, thermal runaways.

But thermal runaways are usually not a problem! We run the diodes usually on a lower current to get better efficiency and the drivers used have simply not enough current to destroy the diodes with too much current flow.

Even with the resistors you can still use both types of drivers, CV/CC or CC. They even recommend HLG C models. An HLG-600H-30A or B(to stay with the example above) would anyway switch in CC mode when the circuit voltage is lower like its nominal voltage(30v). Its CC region is 15-30v and when used to drive a number of these strips in parallel the driver would reduce the circuot voltage to 28,5v to still deliver its full current flow.(20amps + ~8%).
This driver has 2 parallel outputs and you could use 8 in parallel on each side. But because if its a CV/CC model it will also run in CC mode.

The circuits on the most strips are usually series-parallel circuits so even if we power them with constant current there leaves a risk to get thermal runaways. But with todays diodes the differences are so low that the risk is very low. If it wouild really be problematic we would have seen much more damaged Sammy and Blux strips. So IMO its not neccessary to use current limiting resisitors they only cause additional costs. There are enough CC drivers available and even CC stips can be driven with a CV driver when you run them in parallel.
Thanks for explaining that, the boards are pretty inexpensive anyway and pretty intense, I only use cc drivers and have over 320w available at the wall with 4 boards on a 320 c-2100 so all is good, iv only got them at 200w and with the cobs it’s 705w in the 4x4 :)
 

astonehead

Well-Known Member
A little update on these lights.
I decided I was getting such good veg growth I put all the babies under this light and they have grown so well they are all going to be flipped tonight, these are testers except the clone at the back so not sure what will happen here

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And the plants are loving the boards, abit of leaf curling and a bleached top due to one top being moved I think from the edge to directly under a board. These boards are pretty intense. Also means my whole rig is 3000k 90cri with exception of the 1750k, still might swap it back to the cree.
Loving these invisible sun lights so far
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