quick nute question...

ExileOnMainStreet

ExileOnMainStreet

Well-Known Member
I'm about 3-4 weeks in on a single plant in soil. The cotyledons are yellow and the stipules are about 1/8" long now. Judging from the pics on here, it's got the long narrow leaves of a sativa.

I'm about to start feeding it now (Thx LudaCris !) and I'm looking for some 20-5-5.
I haven't seen that ratio at any of the local garden centers...what else is it used for ?

Also, they have 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. Can I just mix it 4X stronger to give me 20-4-4 instead ? (1 tbsp/quart instead of 1 tbsp/gal)

Otherwise it'll have to be something like 20-20-20 general purpose fertilizer.

I've got some fresh pics in my grow thread (link's in my sig)
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
Why do you specifically want those numbers? Can you order online? There's plenty of great fertilizers that are essentially "special purpose" for herb growing.
 
nraged

nraged

Well-Known Member
ExileOnMainStreet said:
I'm about 3-4 weeks in on a single plant in soil. The cotyledons are yellow and the stipules are about 1/8" long now. Judging from the pics on here, it's got the long narrow leaves of a sativa.

I'm about to start feeding it now (Thx LudaCris !) and I'm looking for some 20-5-5.
I haven't seen that ratio at any of the local garden centers...what else is it used for ?

Also, they have 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. Can I just mix it 4X stronger to give me 20-4-4 instead ? (1 tbsp/quart instead of 1 tbsp/gal)

Otherwise it'll have to be something like 20-20-20 general purpose fertilizer.
Click to expand...
Dont mix 4x times of the fish ferts you will overdose and burn your plants. There is some cheaper nutes closer to the numbers he told you and I will try and post a couple once I dig em up. I now there is a flowering mix at home depot lowes and walmart that has african violete in it you can use those for your flowering stage cant remember the name of the fert you can use during veg. If you have some hydro stores around you can find great nutes designed for the plant your growing at a decent price.
 
ExileOnMainStreet

ExileOnMainStreet

Well-Known Member
Why do you specifically want those numbers?
Click to expand...
I picked up that ratio from reading here...what do you suggest ?
I've also read as many people say that's too much nitrogen even for veg, so I figured I'd ask.
Buying online isn't really an option at the moment, but it will be for the next round.

Just to clarify, I don't think Luda suggested the ratio, just when to start feeding. I'm not sure how close the actual ratio needs to be ?

nraged: Is there's something else in the fish stuff that would become over-concentrated ? Or could I use that lower concentration (5-1-1) more often, like with each watering ? I'm really not trying to reinvent the wheel here, just benefit the experience you guys have to shorten the learning curve a bit. I'm in a small town, so my selection is pretty limited There's no big box stores here but the little guys carry the big names.
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
The way they come up with the numbers is the percentage of nutrient in the overall product. Like 6 - 2- 3 would be 6% nitrogen 2% phosphorus and 3% potassium. Which leaves 91% of the product. In that 91% are similar macronutrients, micronutrients, minerals, and vitamins, also preservatives and a carrying agent which they need for shelf life. Anyhow, what I'm getting at is you'll notice a lot of the general purpose fertilizers are lower numbers, normally around 10% or less until you get to the flowering and bulking formulas. which means the other 90% are micronutrients and things you need to maintain overall health and vitality. Check around. Do some research. Plenty of good brands out there. Large numbers aren't always a good thing...
 
majek

majek

Well-Known Member
Typically you want a grow fertilizer with a 2-1 nitrogen ratio. I use Age Old Grow (12-6-6). For bloom nutes you want a 2-1 phosphorus ratio, I use Age Old Bloom (5-10-5).
 
LUDACRIS

LUDACRIS

New Member
ExileOnMainStreet said:
I'm about 3-4 weeks in on a single plant in soil. The cotyledons are yellow and the stipules are about 1/8" long now. Judging from the pics on here, it's got the long narrow leaves of a sativa.

I'm about to start feeding it now (Thx LudaCris !) and I'm looking for some 20-5-5.
I haven't seen that ratio at any of the local garden centers...what else is it used for ?

Also, they have 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. Can I just mix it 4X stronger to give me 20-4-4 instead ? (1 tbsp/quart instead of 1 tbsp/gal)

Otherwise it'll have to be something like 20-20-20 general purpose fertilizer.

I've got some fresh pics in my grow thread (link's in my sig)
Click to expand...
thanks Exile.
LUDACRIS.
 
LUDACRIS

LUDACRIS

New Member
ExileOnMainStreet said:
I picked up that ratio from reading here...what do you suggest ?
I've also read as many people say that's too much nitrogen even for veg, so I figured I'd ask.
Buying online isn't really an option at the moment, but it will be for the next round.

Just to clarify, I don't think Luda suggested the ratio, just when to start feeding. I'm not sure how close the actual ratio needs to be ?

nraged: Is there's something else in the fish stuff that would become over-concentrated ? Or could I use that lower concentration (5-1-1) more often, like with each watering ? I'm really not trying to reinvent the wheel here, just benefit the experience you guys have to shorten the learning curve a bit. I'm in a small town, so my selection is pretty limited There's no big box stores here but the little guys carry the big names.
Click to expand...
just ask as i cant remember what i told you.

LUDA.
;-)
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
Your 5-1-1 should work fine to start. I would just follow the directions on the bottle for mix ratio. Start at like a 1/4 to 1/2 strenght and start from there.
 
LUDACRIS

LUDACRIS

New Member
Application: Fertilising
To grow to a large size, marijuana requires a steady supply of nutrients. These can be added to the soil before planting or anytime during growth. Bulk fertilisers are added while the soil is mixed. These include manures, composts, humus, and concentrated fertilisers, such as rose food. Once the plants are growing, never condition or mulch indoor soils with bulk fertilisers. they promote moulds and fungi and attract other pests to the garden. Concentrated fertilisers can damage the plants if they come in direct contact with the stem or roots.
While the plants are growing, nutrients are given in solution; they are dissolved in water, and the plants are watered as usual. Soluble fertilisers can be either organic or inorganic (chemical), and come in a wide range of concentrations and proportions of nutrients. Two organic fertilisers are liquid manure (about 1.5-1.0-1.5) and fish emulsion ((Some fish emulsion may contain whale by-products.)) (about 5-1-1). Chemical fertilisers commonly may have 20-20-20 or 5-10-5, or may contain only one nutrient, such as 16-0-0.
A 10-5-5 fertiliser is 20 percent soluble nutrients and 80 percent inert ingredients. a 30-10-10 has 50 percent available nutrients and 50 percent inert ingredients. There is approximately the same amount of N in one tsp. of 30-10-10 as in three tsps. of 10-5-5.
Actually, you can almost use any fertiliser, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
How much fertiliser to use and how often to fertilise depend primarily on the fertility of the soil and the size of the container relative to the size of the plant. Small plants in large pots usually do not need to be fertilised. Even in small pots, most plants do not need to be fertilised for at least the first month.
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil, and these must be replaced to maintain vigorous growth. During the vegetative stage, even plants in large pots generally require some fertilising, particularly with N.
The rate of growth of indoor plants is usually limited by the amount of light and space, once adequate nutrients are supplied. At this point, an increase in nutrients will not increase growth. Your goal is to supply the plants with their nutritional needs without overfertilising and thus toxifying the soil.
Most fertilisers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilising houseplants. Marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants. The extra nutrients that it needs may be supplied by the use of large pots and a fertile soil mixture. In many cases, you will need to fertilise only in the dosages recommended on fertiliser packages for houseplants. For instance, Rapid-Gro (23-19-17) is popular among marijuana growers; use one tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks.
A typical program for fertilising might be to fertilise during the fifth week of growth and every two weeks thereafter until flowering. Then discontinue fertilising (or give at one-half concentration) unless the plants show a definite need for nutrients. It is better to fertilise with a more diluted solution more often than to give concentrated doses at longer intervals. (For instance, if instructions call for one tablespoon of fertiliser per gallon once a month, use one-quarter tablespoon per gallon once a week.)
Make sure that a fertiliser is completely dissolved in the water before you apply it. Put the recommended amount of fertiliser in a clear glass bottle and mix with about one cup of water. Shake vigorously and then allow it to settle. If any particles of fertiliser are not dissolved, shake again before adding the rest of the water. If you have difficulty getting all the fertiliser to dissolve, first add hot top water. If the fertiliser still does not completely dissolve, you should use another fertiliser.
Never fertilise a dry soil or dry Soilless medium. If the medium is dry, first water with about one-half quart of plain water per pot. Let the pots sit for about 15 minutes so that the water is evenly dispersed in the pot. Then fertilise as usual.
It is difficult to give instruction for fertilising that will cover all garden situations. You want to supply the plant with its nutritive needs, but overfertilising con toxify the soil. Fertilising according to instructions for houseplants (both in frequency and concentration) should not toxify the soil. However, the plants may sometimes require more frequent or more concentrated fertilising. A good way to judge the plant's needs is not to fertilise one plant, double the fertiliser of another plant, and give the rest of the plants their normal dose. If the unfertilised plant grows more slowly, or shows symptoms of deficiencies, then probably all the plant are depending on soluble fertilisers and must be fertilised regularly. If the plants receiving the double dose grows faster than the other plants, increase the other plants' supply also. On the other hand, if there is little difference among the plants, then the soil is providing the plants with enough nutrients, and they either should not be fertilised or should be fertilised with a less-concentrated solution.
Because they are grown in a relatively small area, it is easy to overfertilise indoor plants. When plants are vigorous, look healthy, and are growing steadily, don't be anxious to fertilise, particularly if you have already fertilised several times with soluble fertilisers. Slow growth or symptoms of deficiencies clearly indicate the need for fertilising.

(all info is posted from my archives and documents).

LUDA.
;-)
 
Phenom420

Phenom420

Well-Known Member
LUDACRIS said:
Application: Fertilising
To grow to a large size, marijuana requires a steady supply of nutrients. These can be added to the soil before planting or anytime during growth. Bulk fertilisers are added while the soil is mixed. These include manures, composts, humus, and concentrated fertilisers, such as rose food. Once the plants are growing, never condition or mulch indoor soils with bulk fertilisers. they promote moulds and fungi and attract other pests to the garden. Concentrated fertilisers can damage the plants if they come in direct contact with the stem or roots.
While the plants are growing, nutrients are given in solution; they are dissolved in water, and the plants are watered as usual. Soluble fertilisers can be either organic or inorganic (chemical), and come in a wide range of concentrations and proportions of nutrients. Two organic fertilisers are liquid manure (about 1.5-1.0-1.5) and fish emulsion ((Some fish emulsion may contain whale by-products.)) (about 5-1-1). Chemical fertilisers commonly may have 20-20-20 or 5-10-5, or may contain only one nutrient, such as 16-0-0.
A 10-5-5 fertiliser is 20 percent soluble nutrients and 80 percent inert ingredients. a 30-10-10 has 50 percent available nutrients and 50 percent inert ingredients. There is approximately the same amount of N in one tsp. of 30-10-10 as in three tsps. of 10-5-5.
Actually, you can almost use any fertiliser, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
How much fertiliser to use and how often to fertilise depend primarily on the fertility of the soil and the size of the container relative to the size of the plant. Small plants in large pots usually do not need to be fertilised. Even in small pots, most plants do not need to be fertilised for at least the first month.
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil, and these must be replaced to maintain vigorous growth. During the vegetative stage, even plants in large pots generally require some fertilising, particularly with N.
The rate of growth of indoor plants is usually limited by the amount of light and space, once adequate nutrients are supplied. At this point, an increase in nutrients will not increase growth. Your goal is to supply the plants with their nutritional needs without overfertilising and thus toxifying the soil.
Most fertilisers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilising houseplants. Marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants. The extra nutrients that it needs may be supplied by the use of large pots and a fertile soil mixture. In many cases, you will need to fertilise only in the dosages recommended on fertiliser packages for houseplants. For instance, Rapid-Gro (23-19-17) is popular among marijuana growers; use one tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks.
A typical program for fertilising might be to fertilise during the fifth week of growth and every two weeks thereafter until flowering. Then discontinue fertilising (or give at one-half concentration) unless the plants show a definite need for nutrients. It is better to fertilise with a more diluted solution more often than to give concentrated doses at longer intervals. (For instance, if instructions call for one tablespoon of fertiliser per gallon once a month, use one-quarter tablespoon per gallon once a week.)
Make sure that a fertiliser is completely dissolved in the water before you apply it. Put the recommended amount of fertiliser in a clear glass bottle and mix with about one cup of water. Shake vigorously and then allow it to settle. If any particles of fertiliser are not dissolved, shake again before adding the rest of the water. If you have difficulty getting all the fertiliser to dissolve, first add hot top water. If the fertiliser still does not completely dissolve, you should use another fertiliser.
Never fertilise a dry soil or dry Soilless medium. If the medium is dry, first water with about one-half quart of plain water per pot. Let the pots sit for about 15 minutes so that the water is evenly dispersed in the pot. Then fertilise as usual.
It is difficult to give instruction for fertilising that will cover all garden situations. You want to supply the plant with its nutritive needs, but overfertilising con toxify the soil. Fertilising according to instructions for houseplants (both in frequency and concentration) should not toxify the soil. However, the plants may sometimes require more frequent or more concentrated fertilising. A good way to judge the plant's needs is not to fertilise one plant, double the fertiliser of another plant, and give the rest of the plants their normal dose. If the unfertilised plant grows more slowly, or shows symptoms of deficiencies, then probably all the plant are depending on soluble fertilisers and must be fertilised regularly. If the plants receiving the double dose grows faster than the other plants, increase the other plants' supply also. On the other hand, if there is little difference among the plants, then the soil is providing the plants with enough nutrients, and they either should not be fertilised or should be fertilised with a less-concentrated solution.
Because they are grown in a relatively small area, it is easy to overfertilise indoor plants. When plants are vigorous, look healthy, and are growing steadily, don't be anxious to fertilise, particularly if you have already fertilised several times with soluble fertilisers. Slow growth or symptoms of deficiencies clearly indicate the need for fertilising.

(all info is posted from my archives and documents).

LUDA.
;-)
Click to expand...
wow luda what a long informative post.
even tho it was form your archives, I'm surprised at you.
1 problem tho, seems who ever wrote it couldn't spell fertilizer so I went and fixed it up for ya. I won't use stupid icons to try and get at you, this is a freebie.


HTML clipboardTo grow to a large size, marijuana requires a steady supply of nutrients. These can be added to the soil before planting or anytime during growth. Bulk fertilizers are added while the soil is mixed. These include manures, composts, humus, and concentrated fertilizers, such as rose food. Once the plants are growing, never condition or mulch indoor soils with bulk fertilizers. they promote moulds and fungi and attract other pests to the garden. Concentrated fertilizers can damage the plants if they come in direct contact with the stem or roots.
While the plants are growing, nutrients are given in solution; they are dissolved in water, and the plants are watered as usual. Soluble fertilizers can be either organic or inorganic (chemical), and come in a wide range of concentrations and proportions of nutrients. Two organic fertilizers are liquid manure (about 1.5-1.0-1.5) and fish emulsion ((Some fish emulsion may contain whale by-products.)) (about 5-1-1). Chemical fertilizers commonly may have 20-20-20 or 5-10-5, or may contain only one nutrient, such as 16-0-0.
A 10-5-5 fertilizer is 20 percent soluble nutrients and 80 percent inert ingredients. a 30-10-10 has 50 percent available nutrients and 50 percent inert ingredients. There is approximately the same amount of N in one tsp. of 30-10-10 as in three tsps. of 10-5-5.
Actually, you can almost use any fertilizer, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
How much fertilizer to use and how often to fertilize depend primarily on the fertility of the soil and the size of the container relative to the size of the plant. Small plants in large pots usually do not need to be fertilized. Even in small pots, most plants do not need to be fertilized for at least the first month.
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil, and these must be replaced to maintain vigorous growth. During the vegetative stage, even plants in large pots generally require some fertilizing, particularly with N.
The rate of growth of indoor plants is usually limited by the amount of light and space, once adequate nutrients are supplied. At this point, an increase in nutrients will not increase growth. Your goal is to supply the plants with their nutritional needs without over fertilizing and thus toxifying the soil.
Most fertilizers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilizing houseplants. Marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants. The extra nutrients that it needs may be supplied by the use of large pots and a fertile soil mixture. In many cases, you will need to fertilize only in the dosages recommended on fertilizer packages for houseplants. For instance, Rapid-Gro (23-19-17) is popular among marijuana growers; use one tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks.
A typical program for fertilizing might be to fertilize during the fifth week of growth and every two weeks thereafter until flowering. Then discontinue fertilizing (or give at one-half concentration) unless the plants show a definite need for nutrients. It is better to fertilize with a more diluted solution more often than to give concentrated doses at longer intervals. (For instance, if instructions call for one tablespoon of fertilizer per gallon once a month, use one-quarter tablespoon per gallon once a week.)
Make sure that a fertilizer is completely dissolved in the water before you apply it. Put the recommended amount of fertilizer in a clear glass bottle and mix with about one cup of water. Shake vigorously and then allow it to settle. If any particles of fertilizer are not dissolved, shake again before adding the rest of the water. If you have difficulty getting all the fertilizer to dissolve, first add hot top water. If the fertilizer still does not completely dissolve, you should use another fertilizer.
Never fertilize a dry soil or dry Soilless medium. If the medium is dry, first water with about one-half quart of plain water per pot. Let the pots sit for about 15 minutes so that the water is evenly dispersed in the pot. Then fertilize as usual.
It is difficult to give instruction for fertilizing that will cover all garden situations. You want to supply the plant with its nutritive needs, but over fertilizing con toxify the soil. Fertilizing according to instructions for houseplants (both in frequency and concentration) should not toxify the soil. However, the plants may sometimes require more frequent or more concentrated fertilizing. A good way to judge the plant's needs is not to fertilize one plant, double the fertilizer of another plant, and give the rest of the plants their normal dose. If the unfertilized plant grows more slowly, or shows symptoms of deficiencies, then probably all the plant are depending on soluble fertilizers and must be fertilized regularly. If the plants receiving the double dose grows faster than the other plants, increase the other plants' supply also. On the other hand, if there is little difference among the plants, then the soil is providing the plants with enough nutrients, and they either should not be fertilized or should be fertilized with a less-concentrated solution.
Because they are grown in a relatively small area, it is easy to over fertilize indoor plants. When plants are vigorous, look healthy, and are growing steadily, don't be anxious to fertilize, particularly if you have already fertilized several times with soluble fertilizers. Slow growth or symptoms of deficiencies clearly indicate the need for fertilizing.
 
Phenom420

Phenom420

Well-Known Member
LUDACRIS said:
mate is a scotland word for friend.
just like you propably call your friends bro/homie or dude.
http://graphjam.com/2009/08/03/song-chart-memes-call-mate/

LUDA.
:shock:
Click to expand...
Couldn't ya tell I was joking.
Who said I had any friends?

Maybe i call plp by their names?
just joking around, in case you can't tell.

I know what mate ment.

But you know I'm American, and here is means a little more than that, more like you play hide your penis in them LOL.

Who ever came up with "flat" for apartment was a drab mofo.
 
Phenom420

Phenom420

Well-Known Member
I cant use the word I call most of my "Buds", it's pretty offensive no matter what country you are from.
 
Phenom420

Phenom420

Well-Known Member
LOL
the Brits hahaha

Yeah I don't make fun of foreigners that way, usually not too much at all.
I usually pitty them instead.

Ok well I do make alot of fun of the french.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top