Questions On Soil

i have this really good spot thats facingthe west on a hill with no trees except 3-4 foot pine trees...but the sub soil is sandy in most spots. So could i take fertile soil from somewhere else and put it there or is that a bad idea?

if you can bring in enough soil/other substrate to mix in, I wouldn't see why it'd be too bad of an idea. Unless you have pine needles constantly falling on the ground over your plants.

Consider carrying in compost, mixing it with the soil. It is lighter than regular soil. That sandy soil sounds good, you'll need water retention, something like compost. Watch the PH level around Pine Trees.

South Texas said:

Consider carrying in compost, mixing it with the soil. It is lighter than regular soil. That sandy soil sounds good, you'll need water retention, something like compost. Watch the PH level around Pine Trees.

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yeah i was gonna do that...i have a home composter that compostes probably 5 gallons of soil in 3 weeks its nuts

so your saying keep the sandy soil and add compost?

HELL YEAH!! Sand mixed with clay is what some people call cement. Not a good thing. But clay less sand, oh yeah. I grew up in sand pits, with pine trees- East Texas. There is a place south of here that is nothing but sand, and the best watermelons are grown there. People ask, WTF??? Answer, you can grow anything in sand if you water & nute enough. The sand is basically good drainage, no more, no less. So water retention is most import. So basically, you need a home where your microbes can party, like compost. You have a composter??? You should know about building your microbial life & breaking down composting material. Do you add molasses to your compost-er? If not, we have to have a little talk. Compost is just a carbon material used as a base to start good soil. Sterile compost may retain moisture, but without microbes to breakdown & cultivate, your sucking hind tit to Mother Nature. See a Post of mine in this section, Any Outdoor Southern Growers out there, or something like that. It's in 3 parts.

i dont add molasses...would that help water retention...and i just ordred some heavy harvest slow release ferts from advanced nutrients, Spring , Summer , and fall...and im in northern maine, as you might no theirs alot of woods

and my spot is on top of somewhat of a (sandpit) with thornbushes and baby pines on top and plenty of sun...its the only spot i can find without going 200 miles in the woods , my plan is to mix in about 15-20% compost in the ground which is mainly sand...

im new at growing outdoors as u can tell, ive been growing indoors for many years but using hydroponics...so whether or not sand is bad for marijuana im completely

Molasses does 2 things for compost/soil. Molasses alone, speeds up the bio breakdown in the compost/soil. And 2, it serves as a never ending Buffet for the microbial life in the soil. Both acts as an easier way for the root system to absorb ALL the nutrition available. The 3rd is the plant can absorb the good things that molasses offers, straight away. Scroll the index in the "dirtdoctor.com" site, for additional info. Add liquid seaweed to the molasses, and you double the growth outcome. Check out "Greensand", Whole ground cornmeal etc., also.

South Texas said:

Molasses does 2 things for compost/soil. Molasses alone, speeds up the bio breakdown in the compost/soil. And 2, it serves as a never ending Buffet for the microbial life in the soil. Both acts as an easier way for the root system to absorb ALL the nutrition available. The 3rd is the plant can absorb the good things that molasses offers, straight away. Scroll the index in the "dirtdoctor.com" site, for additional info. Add liquid seaweed to the molasses, and you double the growth outcome. Check out "Greensand", Whole ground cornmeal etc., also.

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- Wow cant believe this was two years ago!! haha crazy mann..

consider bricks of coco coir. its very lightweight, retains moisture, and its ph neutral. only thing is you need to hydrate it so if you have a water source nearby its the ticket.

farmerjoe420 said:

consider bricks of coco coir. its very lightweight, retains moisture, and its ph neutral. only thing is you need to hydrate it so if you have a water source nearby its the ticket.

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- never heard of that bro. but it sounds like just the thing i need. What do u mean u need to hydrate it? Are u saying it cuts down watering by that much that u would have to remind me to water it? haha. But water source nearby comes in handy for sure. No more lugging jugs of water on foot 5 times a week ne more. im done wit that shiz!

when you buy it, it comes compressed and dry. one small brick the size of two packs of cigarettes will turn into about 5 gallons of coco- coir when water is added. thats what i meant by re-hydrating it. you must add water to it for it to expand to its true size and yes it will hold quite a bit of water. it comes in a few different textures like fine and chips so you can use a mixture of the two to create a mix that holds water and promotes aeration and drainage.

look it up at a hydroponic retail website or check your local grow store they should have it. a company named sunleaves makes it as well.

farmerjoe420 said:

look it up at a hydroponic retail website or check your local grow store they should have it. a company named sunleaves makes it as well.

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Will do thanks for the info farmerjoe...

absoulutely i think it will do the trick for you. it comes in fine and chips, fine is what you want to retain the most moisture.