Question about container size for hydroponics

Hey can someone tell me how deep a bucket I would need for a bubbleponics setup. And or what size I need for a Ebb and Flow. I have limited height and I didnt want to throw the idea out until I understood what sizes I would need. I can fit a soil setup with a SCROG and LST But I figure If I need a bigger bucket it would take a lot of my height space away for vertical growth. I have just under 3ft of vertical growth from floor to the top. I also dont know if I can grow Autoflowering plants with hydroponics. And after my first grow im going to change my spot and I will be able to have a 5ft height or more and 10ft horizontal space. the space is in the loft of a barn I have. I would have a 5ft or maybe 5'5" and front to back maybe 6ft and 10ft wide. What kind of setup would get me the most out of it. Should I go with bubbleponics and have individual units since I hear that roots compete or something maybe Im thinking of something else. I figure a hydro setup would be best in the barn loft since I will have a harder time watering them discreetly. Let me know of any ideas you guys may have. Maybe I would have room for a table and the flooding thing I'm obviously new to hydroponics and growing in general so let me know anything I need to keep in mind. Thanks a lot for your help guys
 

karousing

Well-Known Member
in a hydroponic set up you can grow a full plant with a 6x6 inch cube or minimum 2-3 gallon container, all the roots need is a constant supply of air and enough water to feed off of. i used a 12x8x6 inches container for mine and have not had problems because of it. i would suggest scrog and lst to keep the plants low. you can do autoflowers in hydro no problem. i have done 2 harvests of such and they are very easy. if you have enough space i would say look up a rotary garden (youtube omega garden) that is the best way to get the most of your space/lighting/plants. roots competing for food can be a problem so if it is possible then put them each in there own individual containers.

main problems of hydro are - needs constant attention to ph and nutrient levels. especially as a seedling. needs constant air supply (constant power supply) if the power does go out take the plant out of the water or at least raise 50% of the roots above the water line.

ph will have to be checked daily and you have to de-chlorinate the water or risk losing the plants and the nutrients. leave the water sitting outside to let the chlorine evaporate for 24 hours prior to change.

with hydro you get the fastest growing/flowering time. i have found that they dont tend to be as hard (stem/stock wise) and might need support to stand. lst/scrog negates this though.

in a scrog/lst make sure you attach it to the lid of the container and not the surrounding area as when you lift the top of the container off for water changes, root inspections, ph testing you will have to move the side supports.

for ph up i recommend potassium silicate as it improves the cellular structure of the plant and helps it maintain a healthy stock. takes 10-20 minutes before you can take an acurate reading of the ph levels though and always add ph up first to help set a good base when adding nutrients.

with lst you will set the height of the plant and how high it will grow. with this factor under control you will be able grow a large, full plant in a 3 foot high space no problem ( 6 inches for container, 12 inches for plant growth, 18 inches remaining for airflow and light fixture. led/fluorescent would be preferable as the lighting spectrums can be exact and help with both stages of growth. please get at least a 3w chipset if you buy an led, this will give it enough power and penetration to get the most from your plant.

adding a uvb (reptile) bulb you can increase the trichome growth as trichomes absord the uv to protect the plant. DO NOT put the uvb bulb to close or you will burn the plant. 1 bulb per plant is more then sufficient ( i used 1 for 2 plants)

keep constant air flow and try not to over feed them. less is more sometimes.

if you need ventilation look up DIY Filters on the general growing page.

Its pretty simple, oh and ph should stay between 5.5-6.5. i would also recommend ramping up/down the lighting schedule when going into flowering. going from 18/6 - 17/7 - 16/8 -15/9 etc etc.... as a straight over switch from 18/6 - 12/12 can cause stress in the starch production and feeding cycles as plants can "remember lighting cycles" this can take place over 1-2 weeks no problem as that is how long most plants take to switch from veg to flower.

anyways, Good luck T
 

karousing

Well-Known Member
the exact method for water changes is

let the water sit out for 20 hours to de-chlorinate
add ph up, wait 20 minutes and check ph to be positive of the levels (this first ph check can be negated after time by learning about your house waters base ph and remembering for next time)
add ph down to get an approximate ph of 5.5-6.5 (usually 1/2 the amount of ph up if using potassium silicate)
add your nutrients, usually additives first, then if its a 2 part, put b in first, then a. check your ph levels.
if you need to adjust them do so and always remember, just a little bit at a time. if you start fluxuating too much and add ph up then down then up then down. it is a waste of time and effort. just a little at a time till you know the approximate amount for your regular feeding schedule.
and always stir up the res daily if possible or add a water movement device (look up aquarium stuff)
IF and only IF you need water immediately, go out and get some aquarium water conditioner, it removes the chlorine but i have not been using it for more then 1 grow and can not give definites.
 
in a hydroponic set up you can grow a full plant with a 6x6 inch cube or minimum 2-3 gallon container, all the roots need is a constant supply of air and enough water to feed off of. i used a 12x8x6 inches container for mine and have not had problems because of it. i would suggest scrog and lst to keep the plants low. you can do autoflowers in hydro no problem. i have done 2 harvests of such and they are very easy. if you have enough space i would say look up a rotary garden (youtube omega garden) that is the best way to get the most of your space/lighting/plants. roots competing for food can be a problem so if it is possible then put them each in there own individual containers.

main problems of hydro are - needs constant attention to ph and nutrient levels. especially as a seedling. needs constant air supply (constant power supply) if the power does go out take the plant out of the water or at least raise 50% of the roots above the water line.

ph will have to be checked daily and you have to de-chlorinate the water or risk losing the plants and the nutrients. leave the water sitting outside to let the chlorine evaporate for 24 hours prior to change.

with hydro you get the fastest growing/flowering time. i have found that they dont tend to be as hard (stem/stock wise) and might need support to stand. lst/scrog negates this though.

in a scrog/lst make sure you attach it to the lid of the container and not the surrounding area as when you lift the top of the container off for water changes, root inspections, ph testing you will have to move the side supports.

for ph up i recommend potassium silicate as it improves the cellular structure of the plant and helps it maintain a healthy stock. takes 10-20 minutes before you can take an acurate reading of the ph levels though and always add ph up first to help set a good base when adding nutrients.

with lst you will set the height of the plant and how high it will grow. with this factor under control you will be able grow a large, full plant in a 3 foot high space no problem ( 6 inches for container, 12 inches for plant growth, 18 inches remaining for airflow and light fixture. led/fluorescent would be preferable as the lighting spectrums can be exact and help with both stages of growth. please get at least a 3w chipset if you buy an led, this will give it enough power and penetration to get the most from your plant.

adding a uvb (reptile) bulb you can increase the trichome growth as trichomes absord the uv to protect the plant. DO NOT put the uvb bulb to close or you will burn the plant. 1 bulb per plant is more then sufficient ( i used 1 for 2 plants)

keep constant air flow and try not to over feed them. less is more sometimes.

if you need ventilation look up DIY Filters on the general growing page.

Its pretty simple, oh and ph should stay between 5.5-6.5. i would also recommend ramping up/down the lighting schedule when going into flowering. going from 18/6 - 17/7 - 16/8 -15/9 etc etc.... as a straight over switch from 18/6 - 12/12 can cause stress in the starch production and feeding cycles as plants can "remember lighting cycles" this can take place over 1-2 weeks no problem as that is how long most plants take to switch from veg to flower.

anyways, Good luck T
Thanks for all the info
 
the exact method for water changes is

let the water sit out for 20 hours to de-chlorinate
add ph up, wait 20 minutes and check ph to be positive of the levels (this first ph check can be negated after time by learning about your house waters base ph and remembering for next time)
add ph down to get an approximate ph of 5.5-6.5 (usually 1/2 the amount of ph up if using potassium silicate)
add your nutrients, usually additives first, then if its a 2 part, put b in first, then a. check your ph levels.
if you need to adjust them do so and always remember, just a little bit at a time. if you start fluxuating too much and add ph up then down then up then down. it is a waste of time and effort. just a little at a time till you know the approximate amount for your regular feeding schedule.
and always stir up the res daily if possible or add a water movement device (look up aquarium stuff)
IF and only IF you need water immediately, go out and get some aquarium water conditioner, it removes the chlorine but i have not been using it for more then 1 grow and can not give definites.
On a separate subject do you know of any automated or timed watering systems for indoor. I can make a reservoir with 20+ gallon tote and use a submersible pump but im not sure how I would use it. Im not sure if you would know but just wondering. I'm very capable of rigging something up but would I just make it a closed hose to the plants and have holes in it for it to drip or would it be too much pressure. I would just get a 15 minute interval timer that would go on periodically throughout the day. I would just need to see how much comes out for that amount of time so Its not too much. I'm going to do a soil grow and if I feel confident I will most likely upgrade to a bubbleponics setup or a setup like you told me you have. Thanks again for all that info.
 

karousing

Well-Known Member
easiest way is too look at an industrial dishwasher. very easy to use, push button operation, takes out the exact amounts of chemicals, and can be set up to run off a computer. could even mix with water and modify for a foliar spraying or hydro or drip or soil.

the pros of working at a restaurant.

if using solubles look up automated fish feeders.
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
Here is how any nutes are added: water, nutes, additives, then adjust ph. Ph is always the last thing u do because the nutes will change the initial ph of the water. As for leaving water out for 24 hours to de-chlorinate or the plants will die is the biggest bullshit ive seen on here lately. I go straight from tap to res in 6 different 50 gallon res's and dwc buckets and have for years with thousands of plants and never once has it been an issue. Think about just the ph advice in that post and read up on it and make ur own decision. Then look at the adding nutes and adjusting ph advice and read up on that. This is simple stuff for growing a weed guys, you dont need to make it any harder on yourselves.
 

karousing

Well-Known Member
[h=2]Drawbacks to water chlorination[edit][/h]Disinfection by chlorination can be problematic, in some circumstances. Chlorine can react with naturally occurring organic compounds found in the water supply to produce compounds known as disinfection byproducts (DBPs). The most common DBPs are trihalomethanes (THMs) andhaloacetic acids (HAAs). Trihalomethanes are the main disinfectant by-products created from chlorination with two different types, bromoform and dibromochloromethane, which are mainly responsible for health hazards. Their effects depend strictly on the duration of their exposure to the chemicals and the amount ingested into the body. In high doses, bromoform mainly slows down regular brain activity, which is manifested by symptoms such as sleepiness or sedation. Chronic exposure of both bromoform and dibromochloromethane can cause liver and kidney cancer, as well as heart disease, unconsciousness or death in high doses.[SUP][6][/SUP] Due to the potential carcinogenicity of these compounds, drinking water regulations across the developed world require regular monitoring of the concentration of these compounds in the distribution systems of municipal water systems. The World Health Organization has stated that the "risks to health from these by-products are extremely small in comparison with the risks associated with inadequate disinfection" [SUP][7][/SUP] There are also other concerns regarding chlorine, including its volatile nature which causes it to disappear too quickly from the water system, and aesthetic concerns such as taste and odour. Chlorination of swimming pools can have adverse effects on the skin and hair of swimmers due to chlorine's oxidizing properties; various remedies have been developed, most recently an antioxidant formulation of Vitamin C.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_chlorination#Drawbacks_to_water_chlorination

You can go ahead and kill your microlife. have fun. some people strive to do better. while simple is easy. its not the best. simple is just that... simple.

sim·ple·ton (s
m
p
l-t
n)

n.A person who is felt to be deficient in judgment, good sense, or intelligence; a fool.


always adjust your ph before and after.

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex6607
 
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