QAUNTUM BOARD vs HID heat difference

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newguy41410

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
I'd use cool tubes. I'd have the intake and exhaust open to the outside, but isolated from grow area. This way you won't be effecting your CO2 concentration because of your heat mgmt. Then Id use another exhaust line for my grow room air mgmt. If possible Id try to mount ballasts outside grow, but my ballast cords were always pretty short. You can lengthen the cord but you'd maybe want to increase wire gauge if you did.

If the room is well insulated youll need an AC but with this way you're not relying on the AC so much you can drop your energy costs. If you're trying to maintain CO2, then obvi you'd rely more on your AC then your aux exhaust line, but you could tune to your liking.

@Renfro has some good experience with high wattage HID grows, he might have something to add here.
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Bro!!!! This is brilliant. The suggestion of running cool tubes with the intake and exhaust leading to the outside. So technically the room is still sealed and we can trap the CO2! And more importantly it'd be constantly exhausting the heat from the lights from the room. This is key with keeping the electrical bill low right?? How effective is it for keeping the room cooled? Imagine 6k watts of HPS with cooltubes... do you see the cooltubes lowering temps by more than 10 degrees? Any ballpark figures one can expect?

NOW what I'm wondering is... would the cost of the inline fan + electricity to power the cooltubes definitely be worth it to lower the electric bill of the AC?

The original plan is to run the room sealed with CO2 and 24k BTU mini split air conditioner. But I'm thinking the air conditioner would be on constantly and rack up an electricity bill in that case? Would adding cooltubes significantly decrease that electricity bill. No doubt? I have to convince my roommates if so now lol
 
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growingforfun

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
Thanks, that's what I was thinking was going on. The bigger they get the cooler the room stays. Gotta go big, haha.
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Generally speaking more plants equals more heat, they have a metabolic process and can actually be seen on thermal imaging. I figured someone like Fister would know this since he seems to know everything else
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
newguy41410 said:
Bro!!!! This is brilliant. The suggestion of running cool tubes with the intake and exhaust leading to the outside. So technically the room is still sealed and we can trap the CO2! And more importantly it'd be constantly exhausting the heat from the lights from the room. This is key with keeping the electrical bill low right?? How effective is it for keeping the room cooled? Imagine 6k watts of HPS with cooltubes... do you see the cooltubes lowering temps by more than 10 degrees? Any ballpark figures one can expect?

NOW what I'm wondering is... would the cost of the inline fan + electricity to power the cooltubes definitely be worth it to lower the electric bill of the AC?

The original plan is to run the room sealed with CO2 and 24k BTU mini split air conditioner. But I'm thinking the air conditioner would be on constantly and rack up an electricity bill in that case? Would adding cooltubes significantly decrease that electricity bill. No doubt? I have to convince my roommates if so now lol
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It will dramatically reduce AC needs. If you get the big one then you know you'll be good, but sometimes if your unit is too big for the job it will jump on and off more often and you'll get RH spikes, which isn't the end of the world, but they cost more.

I can't really say for sure and Id hate to tell you X size AC and then not have it be correct. When people calculate AC needs they just multiply the HID wattage by 3.41BTU/hr, so that equals ~22,500BTUs [(6kW + (6×100W ballast)) × 3.41]. I think maybe 15,000 BTU unit would be enough but not sure. It'll depend on lots. If you got the big boy it wouldn't need to run as often and youd know you'd be good. In the summer when the heat from outside effects your grow room temp, having the big boy would probably be nice. In the winter you might be able to get away with barely any AC. It'll be dependent on how fast your grow area dissipates energy to the outside.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
growingforfun said:
Generally speaking more plants equals more heat, they have a metabolic process and can actually be seen on thermal imaging. I figured someone like Fister would know this since he seems to know everything else
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Sorry, but Chief Running Phist seems way more knowledgeable than you. He's getting up there's with Renfro and Thundercat for people's advice I truly appreciate.
 
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newguy41410

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
It will dramatically reduce AC needs. If you get the big one then you know you'll be good, but sometimes if your unit is too big for the job it will jump on and off more often and you'll get RH spikes, which isn't the end of the world, but they cost more.

I can't really say for sure and Id hate to tell you X size AC and then not have it be correct. When people calculate AC needs they just multiply the HID wattage by 3.41BTU/hr, so that equals ~22,500BTUs [(6kW + (6×100W ballast)) × 3.41]. I think maybe 15,000 BTU unit would be enough but not sure. It'll depend on lots. If you got the big boy it wouldn't need to run as often and youd know you'd be good. In the summer when the heat from outside effects your grow room temp, having the big boy would probably be nice. In the winter you might be able to get away with barely any AC. It'll be dependent on how fast your grow area dissipates energy to the outside.
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you are addressing another one of my concerns without me asking! haha. I currently have a 12k mini split in my small 7x7 flowering room that i built in the garage. My rH is constantly high and im pretty sure it's because my AC unit is too large for my room And i think you just confirmed that for me? I bought it used on craigslist for $200 so it was a great deal because it does work but that rH of 70+ is having me worried in late flower. Currently only running 400 watts of COB LED because I'm only using half of the room at the moment.

As far as cooling 6k watts in the bedroom goes though.. hmmm something to think about. You're saying we can probably get away with 15k BTU IF we run cooltubes right? No way 15k BTU would work in a sealed room with no cooltubes right? And if we get a 24k unit and use cooltubes there is a slight concern for the unit being too large and we would have high rH right?
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
growingforfun said:
Generally speaking more plants equals more heat, they have a metabolic process and can actually be seen on thermal imaging. I figured someone like Fister would know this since he seems to know everything else
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Well anything can be seen on thermal imaging. They use it to track glacial movements.

If you'd like to know more then start researching thermodynamics.

If leaves weren't full of water they'd radiate more heat. If you check dead leaves with an IR gun they are much hotter than green water filled leaves.

SPD will have an impact as well as exhaust rates. Everything follows the laws of thermodynamics, if your grow is Inc temps with more plants then there's a thermodynamic reason, if your grow is Dec temps with more plants there's a thermodynamic reason. I've heard it both ways. I'd have to actually look at all the data to determine why or how. At this point I'm kinda exhausted from spoon feeding you so put a lil work in yourself.
 
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growingforfun

Well-Known Member
ChiefRunningPhist said:
Well anything can be seen on thermal imaging. They use it to track glacial movements.

If you'd like to know more then start researching thermodynamics.

If leaves weren't full of water they'd radiate more heat. If you check dead leaves with an IR gun they are much hotter than green water filled leaves.

SPD will have an impact as well as exhaust rates. Everything follows the laws of thermodynamics, if your grow is Inc temps with more plants then there's a thermodynamic reason, if your grow is Dec temps with more plants there's a thermodynamic reason. I've heard it both ways. I'd have to actually look at all the data to determine why or how. At this point I'm kinda exhausted from spoon feeding you so put a lil work in yourself.
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You havent spoon fed me shit but simply posted chicken scratch I dont give a damn about. The plants produce heat, it's a fact. Your free to look it up but why bother right?
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
newguy41410 said:
you are addressing another one of my concerns without me asking! haha. I currently have a 12k mini split in my small 7x7 flowering room that i built in the garage. My rH is constantly high and im pretty sure it's because my AC unit is too large for my room And i think you just confirmed that for me? I bought it used on craigslist for $200 so it was a great deal because it does work but that rH of 70+ is having me worried in late flower. Currently only running 400 watts of COB LED because I'm only using half of the room at the moment.

As far as cooling 6k watts in the bedroom goes though.. hmmm something to think about. You're saying we can probably get away with 15k BTU IF we run cooltubes right? No way 15k BTU would work in a sealed room with no cooltubes right? And if we get a 24k unit and use cooltubes there is a slight concern for the unit being too large and we would have high rH right?
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Ya RH is dependent on temp, when temp drops RH increases. If you had a 60% RH and your AC jumped on your RH spikes. I exhaust my RH with my heat, if you had isolated cool tubes you'd not be able to exhaust RH with your cool tubes only your aux exhaust. An AC should pull moisture out of the air, but your plants are transpiring like crazy and its not enough. If you're running CO2 you won't be able to exhaust your RH like I do, so a Dehuey is probably in store. If you're minimizing aux exhaust rates you'll need more AC, so its a huge give and take.

I'm leery to say a number because I'd hate to be wrong and I really honestly dont know. I'm just throwing out a guess of 2/3 your wattage, ie 1/3 your wattage would be exhausted through cool tubes. It would suck to be humming right along and then need more AC to the point that your plants suffered. I think its better to have more than enough than other way around.
 
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growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Fister reminds me a lot of @Kingrow1
Claims a lot in the name of science but at the end of the day uses one growers notes on scratch paper ignoring simple searchable facts.

Google it. Dont rely on bro science and think your smart because you throw out words like thermodynamics an other bs.


Some people here have the space and ability to actually run several lights and have years experiance doing it. Until then have fun in your tent an watching youtube
 
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newguy41410

Well-Known Member
Chief,
thanks for letting me pick your brain and for spoon feeding me! :mrgreen:

Last question if you don't mind: Was doing the research on cooltubes and i can't seem to find any grows with cooltubes being used with Gavita DE lights. Would it work? I've never used HID lighting only LED so I'm not sure if the ballast has to be mounted directly to the light.. would you happen to know if cooltubes will work with these lights/reflector?:

 
JungleSlut

JungleSlut

Well-Known Member
newguy41410 said:
Chief,
thanks for letting me pick your brain and for spoon feeding me! :mrgreen:

Last question if you don't mind: Was doing the research on cooltubes and i can't seem to find any grows with cooltubes being used with Gavita DE lights. Would it work? I've never used HID lighting only LED so I'm not sure if the ballast has to be mounted directly to the light.. would you happen to know if cooltubes will work with these lights/reflector?:

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First question stud. How tall is your ceilings.

Double ended hps younneed AT LEaST ten foot tall ceilings if open ended
 
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