Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

lilroach said:

I can attest that it's difficult to over-water a mature plant....especially if you're using air-pots or smart-pots. I give each of my adult plants 1/2 gal of water/nutrients (in 5 gal containers) every day. I do this even with the pots are feeling heavy. If you look at any of my grows in my signature link you'll see the results of such feeding.

Nute lock-out is a tough one to diagnose. Depending on how far into flower you are, you may end up making drastic changes that end up doing more harm than good. Pictures and your feeding schedule including the nutrients and soil-type would help us help you.

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psychcannabis said:

Hi i need help its my first grow and I'm having some problems with my plants
I have researched so much and have come up with several theories can some one help much appreciated
Its an indoor grow with soil: Sta-Green all sourpuss potting mix with fertilizer .10-.08-.06
I'm growing with CFL my grow box is a little on the hot side temp between 85-90 mostly 90
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psychcannabis said:

could it be heat stress or boron deficiency for the burnt tips
I water every other day or when its a bit dry

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seanpaul sideproject said:

View attachment 3025014View attachment 3025017View attachment 3025017 This is freedom baby from TGA seeds. can anyone tell why the leaves are curling and the canopy is looking the way it is? i haunt added notes yet so can't get nitrogen abundance right. using high quality fox farm soils light warrior mixed with ocean. 1/3 light

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Uncle Ben said:

First - identify the pest and decide on whether or not it is indeed harmful,

Two - if you're out on a kill mission, permethrins will do the job. You just have to follow the label.


Three - I wouldn't have recommended malathion if I knew it was lame.

Ben

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Uncle Ben said:

I'm saying that soil is a powerful buffer and folks fritter over pH values too much, especially when it comes to their water's pH value.

I have heard this pH bullshit for 10 years, so I decided years ago I was going to conduct my own experiment. I took water adjusted to values of say.....4.5 and 9.2 and drenched pots of typical organic soil. Let it sit, and then tested the runoff. The only affect was short term. The long term affect, like an hour after watering, was negligible. This doesn't even address the baloney "lockouts" folk talk about.

Bottom line? Folks need to learn what makes a plant tick and stop placing blame on insignificant crap like pH. Cannabis is a pH tolerant plant when it comes to nutrient uptake. Wean yourself off the charts, and grow some plants people.

UB

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Uncle Ben said:

Never used Neem. Do a test branch before treating the whole branch.

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DNA genetics amsterdam said:

Hey can u please tell me what's wrong with my ladies?

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Uncle Ben said:

Only if you tell me what you've done. Could be a dozen things.

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DNA genetics amsterdam said:

Hey can u please tell me what's wrong with my ladies?

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Uncle Ben said:

They are reacting to a NPK that doesn't support healthy green leaves. Too much P and not enough N. It's typical of the cannabis trade.



Beats the shit outta me. Perhaps they need more N.

Good luck ~

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Kriegs said:

Hey, UB.. I've got a LST question for you...

I didn't start any LST until my plants were 6 weeks old and just starting to pop flowers -- they're all about 30" tall and covered with pinky-nail sized popcorn buds. Just reticent as a noob to mess with them, more than anything. But, I started some gentle LST on them a week ago bending the top 6-8 inches over about 30-45 degrees. True to form, the side branches went nuts and quickly filled in the gaps, closing in a nice canopy at a not-perfectly but much better even distance from the light (400 HPS). I see a whole lot more hard bud in the future now than had I not, so I'm pleased.

Here's the question -- Now that I've bent them, I have these great new branches, but also parts of the plants getting starved for light. Before LST, I rotated my plants daily to even out the light. Is the best idea just to keep the arrangement and let the light concentrate on these new branches, and just accept that the "shady parts" won't amount to much? Or, should I keep moving them around, which will place the new "dominant branches" and their buds in the shade for a day or two, but will focus light on other parts? I've also seen suggestions about bending one direction, then back the other, but that also seems to place the new dominant branches at a disadvantage, too.

I guess I'm operating from the idea that under any artificial light, there's only so much useful light to go around, so something gets sacrificed. And, I want quality over quantitiy. The other idea I've considered is getting some inexpensive CFL fixtures and supplementing additional light from the sides.

Next time around, I'll be starting LST a whole lot sooner -- amazing how it works, and how fast.

Interested in your thoughts.. (BTW -- remember the "swollen node" discussion we had awhile back? The last plant did come out female, so all my "swollen node" plants went fem, all my "smooth nodes" went male).

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Jerry Garcia said:

UB, thank you for your time. You entertain any question, even if the answer could be found with a minimal amount of reading/research by the individual. Much respect.

Not quite two weeks into my first grow, I have committed the cardinal sin of overwatering...though I blame it mostly on the Miracle Grow Organic potting soil I started with. Maybe with some perlite things could have been better, but it just retained too much moisture. I ditched the MG in favor of FF Ocean Forest and larger 5 1/2" square pots. They continue to produce new leaf growth every day or two, but some leaves still appear droopy.

Taking earlier advice from a thread in RIU, I purchased a $5 moisture meter from lowes, and it may have been the best thing I ever did. The plants that looked the most droopy were the ones with the highest readings on the moisture meter. As a first time grower (I prefer that term to "noob" as I have done many hours of research during these first few weeks) it is hard to determine what is wet and what is dry. Not with this cheap device. I recommend it to anyone (especially first time growers).

One of my more robust little girls has begun to develop some kind of deformation on her first set of serrated leaves. I have been administering no nutrients, only distilled water and my myriad of fluoro's and a 150w hps. Temp fluctuates, typical high 84-86, typical low 70-75. My only problem thus far has been relative humidity. It hovers at 20-25% with the lights on, and 40-50% at night. You indicated in an earlier post if they grow with a low humidity, then go with it. So I am. But just for experimentation's sake, I placed 3 plants in a humidity "tent", using wooden skewers, saran wrap, and tape to create an enclosed environment with locally increased humidity.

Anyway, the plant that developed this problem was the first girl subjugated to the tent. She was one of my strongest early seedlings and was doing just fine (until now).

The first two show the problem area, and I just now noticed another similar patch of badness developing in the second image. The last one shows the general droop discussed in the beginning (that should be corrected as the soil eventually gets dry).

Help my babies Uncle Ben!

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Dirf said:

UB I was curious as if you could help figure out whats going on with these girls. I use Botanicare Pro Bloom, Silica Blast and Hydroplex and CALMAG.

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