Pics- Brown Crispy. Tips and Edges. New growth deformed and old is getting worst.

What makes them brown and crispy with dark veins.

I am doing dwc with 3 girls.



bud shot:

Some of them have gotten so crispy that if I touch them they break.

My ppm is at 550 and they are have been vegged for a while and are now in mature. I am using distilled water which has no ppm. Foxfarm Trio without the extra supps.

They look like they have been burned but the temp has been 75-82f. I got one fan blowing air in and a in line fan in the window pulling cold air in from outside and a fan above the lights blowing air out.

Humidity has recently been high but it fluctuates around 40-50% since it has been raining.

Wow, looks like you burned the piss out of 'em dude.
Nutes, AND temps.
What is your PH, and where are you measuring your temp?
Is your thermometer at leaf level between the plant and light or way across the room?

Yeah it looks super baddd. Ph has been 5.5-6.0. It never raises past 6.1 and has been relatively stable. I have to adjust it twice a day once when the lights are on and once right before they turn off. I use less than 1/4 tsp of GH ph down. Temps have been 75-82 f and I am using CFLs.


The thermometer is sitting on top of my res lid.

OK, so temps you are reading are a little lower than what the plants are feeling.
Sorry I really can't help now that you say you are hydro, but here's a chart for PPM for soil that I ran across a while back.
From my soil exp., I would guess that the distilled water has something to do with it, but again, I'm not sure since you're hydro.
Good luck!
You might try putting this in the hydro section if you haven't already to get more answers.

Re: what ppm am i aiming for in soil????????????????????????????
by Northwest Skunk » Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:57 am
GT is right...early flower is 800 to 1000 then increase it every week peaking at the highest your plant can take without burning. When you grow a new strain you're not familiar with it's best to get to around 1400 then increase it slowly by 50 ppm each time till you see the slightest little burn evidence on the leaves then back it off by 50 and you'll be maximizing the food strength they can take.


Mj that doesn't like high food doses can usually take up to 1200 to 1400 ppm max and some nute pigs in soil can take up to 2000ppm. All strains have their likes/dislikes.


At the end of flowering you should reduce the strenghth of feed every time till you get right down to your clearing/flushing stage.


Do things gradually. For example if it's a 9 week strain in flower you could go:
week 1: 1000
" " 2: 1200
" " 3: 1400
" " 4: 1600
" " 5: 1600
" " 6: 1400
" " 7: 1000
" " 8: 300
" " 9: 0


Your veg stage should also increase in strength up to the flowering stage.


Soil growing isn't hard to fix a burning problem if you are only increasing your strength slowly; especially if you have drain holes for flushing.


Northwest Skunk
Cannabis Guru

Posts: 1112
Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:11 am

Can you look at the roots?

You have phos deficiency and mag deficiency. If it were nute burn it would be reddish and leaves would bind up together eventually.

A guano tea with high phos guano and epsom salt will fix it after 2 feedings.

Or it doing hydro so increase what ever bloom nutes you have.

abandonconflict said:

Can you look at the roots?

Click to expand...

Yeah if I open the lid of the res. They are sitting in 6-gal of water and nute solution. They are white and brown because FF Big Bloom has bat guano and is brown- so it stained them.

The res temps are controlled by frozen water bottles. It stays near 68 f but sometimes get as high as 74 f.

hyroot said:

You have phos deficiency and mag deficiency. If it were nute burn it would be reddish and leaves would bind up together eventually.

A guano tea with high phos guano and epsom salt will fix it after 2 feedings.

Or it doing hydro so increase what ever bloom nutes you have.

Click to expand...

I have been supplementing with Botanicare Cal Mag plus right now there is 5 tsps for 6 gals but maybe that is not enough? Foxfarm Hydro Trio is a 3 part mix where Tiger Bloom is the "bloom" nutrients with higher P than N. I used 7-8 tsps for 6-gal of water in the res solution.

Also I put 5.5 tsp Grow Big and 2 tbsp Big Bloom.

My ppm seems low even after putting in the dosage and is around 500.

Could it be a nitrogen toxicity that is causing the problems? I do have a lot of N in their 3% from FF Grow Big which is at 5.5 tsp and 5 tsps of cal mag which has 2% N. I have been doing some research and came across this description of Nitrogen Toxicity here: http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms

They say it will make the buds smaller and mine do seem do be taking a while to swell up but are frosty.

My guess is root parasites, maybe even gnat flies. That is what I am seeing in the leaves. It seems like you're doing everything well enough but they are still sick. They love the moist roots above the surface of the nute solution.

That looks nothing like nitrogen tox. Its def phos def and possibly potassium lock out. Too much Cal mag. Too much Cal will lock out potassium. Too much mag will lock out Cal. Plus Cal mag has Edta in it which is no good. Check outs botanicare Cal plus and humega.

Phos def and potassium lock out will cause small buds. Too much nitrogen wont do that. It will cause developing to lagg. Ie take longer for buds to start developing and longer to finish.

I do organic soil. I give mine plenty of N during flower. But with soil its more about the bacteria and fungi and trace minerals than the npk.

Imo anything from fox farm is crap except for happy frog guano. Best hydro nutes flora Nova

abandonconflict said:

My guess is root parasites, maybe even gnat flies. That is what I am seeing in the leaves. It seems like you're doing everything well enough but they are still sick. They love the moist roots above the surface of the nute solution.

Click to expand...

How do I confirm that? Is there a way for checking for root parasites? I don't see any flies around my grow space.

hyroot said:

That looks nothing like nitrogen tox. Its def phos def and possibly potassium lock out. Too much Cal mag. Too much Cal will lock out potassium. Too much mag will lock out Cal. Plus Cal mag has Edta in it which is no good. Check outs botanicare Cal plus and humega.

Phos def and potassium lock out will cause small buds. Too much nitrogen wont do that. It will cause developing to lagg. Ie take longer for buds to start developing and longer to finish.

I do organic soil. I give mine plenty of N during flower. But with soil its more about the bacteria and fungi and trace minerals than the npk.

Imo anything from fox farm is crap except for happy frog guano. Best hydro nutes flora Nova

Click to expand...

They do seem to be displaying phos and potass deficiencies as well as magnesium. What is Edta? I have been recommended by other grows to use botanicare cal-mag plus. If I am giving them to much, how should I proceed from this point?

Should I flush? Would that hurt the budding process? I agree, I am not a fan of foxfarm. I wish I bought a similar two part nute solution where it is just "grow" and "bloom". FF makes you use both throughout and I am having difficulties knowing which amounts to use.

You have burnt it by over shooting the nutes. What happened ? major damage done to the final weight.

*BUDS said:

You have burnt it by over shooting the nutes. What happened ? major damage done to the final weight.

Click to expand...

I know I burned it once during veg by overdoing the nutes. I started using FF and followed their suggested doseage like a idiot. But I flushed it after signs of burn appeared. Some of those fan leaves have been burnt since veg but I didn't remove them because they still had a lot of green areas.

I don't see how it can be nute burn now since the ppm is at 500. Why would it show deficiency signs. Also why would the leaves grow deformed?

They were growing healthier and look recovered until recently...I just don't know how to continue?

Yes once they are burnt in veg either nute burn or heat/light they rarely recover and the buds don't weigh much due to the leaf damage. Next time make sure they go into flowering green from top to bottom and drinking well.

I recently put a couple of healthy ones out in the sun ,they got wind burn i put them back in , they never recovered and got worse in flowering. Any heat damage affects the whole plant and is not localized as it may appear.

In veg they can always recover. Nute burns are reddish tips and edges. Phos def. Droopy wiith brown crispy tips and edges and yellowing. Under watering brown cripsy tips that curl upwards.

Early sign of too much N. Tips of leaves will be almost hook shaped more l shaped prior to burn. Theres different defs that resemble tox. Knowing how to read a plant is key. A misdiagnosis ^^^ can cause more problems. Every tox or def can be remedied. Getting physically burned by heat or the light is a different matter altogether.

Wind burn is a myth. My fans are directly on plants and I never get wind burn.


Buds the sun was to intense. .when placing outside. Start in the shade first. Then each day let them sit in the sun for an hour longer til they get used to that much light.

hyroot said:

In veg they can always recover. Nute burns are reddish tips and edges. Phos def. Droopy wiith brown crispy tips and edges and yellowing. Under watering brown cripsy tips that curl upwards.

Early sign of too much N. Tips of leaves will be almost hook shaped more l shaped prior to burn. Theres different defs that resemble tox. Knowing how to read a plant is key. A misdiagnosis ^^^ can cause more problems. Every tox or def can be remedied. Getting physically burned by heat or the light is a different matter altogether.

Wind burn is a myth. My fans are directly on plants and I never get wind burn.


Buds the sun was to intense. .when placing outside. Start in the shade first. Then each day let them sit in the sun for an hour longer til they get used to that much light.

Click to expand...

Phos def. Well I do see droopy leaves with brown crispy tips and edges and yellowing. But I also see brown crispy tips that curl upwards so how can it be under watering in dwc?

What's the temp right above the canopy. It could be heat stress too. The leaves are flared up.