Ph? Nutrient burn?

Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
roorsmoker said:
I just ordered this: Bluelab Combo Meter (pH, conductivity, and temperature). not sure if it will link, but I can let you know if it's any good or not after I get it. I'm pretty picky, so I hope this is worth the money!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PD2N8Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was to replace my old Hanna HI98127 ph/TDS pen. I tried changing the electrode on the Hanna pen, but the new one read a 7.01 buffer as 10.01! now that's OFF! lol talk about pissed. I tried the 4.01 buffer (thinking the buffer soln could be labeled wrong) but the 4.01 buffer read as 7.01 . Luckily I realized it before I tried it on any girls. I will admit the Hanna pen lasted through some pretty rough conditions though.
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Definitely lucky you didn't hurt your ladies... How much does this new meter you bought coast. So I know what I'm looking at?
 
roorsmoker

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
It was around 200, but it has a 6 year warranty on the unit (not the electrode), and I've heard nothing but good things about them. Made in USA! There are many other units like this, but I think Hanna has a similar one for around 150 for their cheapest portable. The more expensive ones are $300+, but I doubt you'd need anything that crazy.

Some people say eff it and stick to the drops and a 20 dollar TDS meter. I think the HPS are giving me cataracts because I'm having a really hard time telling the difference in 5.3 and 5.8 with those drops lol. I feel like it's almost the same color for 4.5 and 5.5, or else I'm going color blind. The drops piss me off, but I will always have some on standby (two different brands) to double check my Blue Lab meter every time I calibrate.
 
Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
roorsmoker said:
It was around 200, but it has a 6 year warranty on the unit (not the electrode), and I've heard nothing but good things about them. Made in USA! There are many other units like this, but I think Hanna has a similar one for around 150 for their cheapest portable. The more expensive ones are $300+, but I doubt you'd need anything that crazy.

Some people say eff it and stick to the drops and a 20 dollar TDS meter. I think the HPS are giving me cataracts because I'm having a really hard time telling the difference in 5.3 and 5.8 with those drops lol. I feel like it's almost the same color for 4.5 and 5.5, or else I'm going color blind. The drops piss me off, but I will always have some on standby (two different brands) to double check my Blue Lab meter every time I calibrate.
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200 is worth it if I knew it was that cheap I would have grabbed one
 
Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
Here's another noob question for you if you don't mind answering.... When people say there feeding at X amount of ppm is that there whole mix with there base and additive like sugar and calmag silica or harvest else it might be? For example say your base is 600 then after calmag and sugar your at 1000... So you are feeding at 1000 ppm correct? Not what your base is like 600? I've been assuming it's the overall.
 
O

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
after mixing everything is when you check your ppm and ec .also give it about 30 min to settle after mixing nutrients then check ph and ppm/ec
 
Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
old shol4evr said:
after mixing everything is when you check your ppm and ec .also give it about 30 min to settle after mixing nutrients then check ph and ppm/ec
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Thanks bro.... I keep reading that you should
Feed less in coco. Right now in the begginging of my fifth week I'm at 1100 ppm and no burnt tips was thinking 12 or 13 week 6 then lower it slowly. Also I feed feed then water at about 4-5 hundred ppm really heavy. What do you guys think
 
O

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
here it is
seedlings 100-250 ec0.2/0.5
early veg 300 to 400 ec 0.6 -0.8
full veg 450 to700 ec 0.9 -1.4
early bloom 750 to 950 ec 1.5 -1.9
full mature bloom 1000 to 1600 ec2.0 -3.2
ppm and ec hanna chart
 
Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
old shol4evr said:
here it is
seedlings 100-250 ec0.2/0.5
early veg 300 to 400 ec 0.6 -0.8
full veg 450 to700 ec 0.9 -1.4
early bloom 750 to 950 ec 1.5 -1.9
full mature bloom 1000 to 1600 ec2.0 -3.2
ppm and ec hanna chart
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Yes your the man. I've seen this before. But is that for coco? I only ask because I've been told coco wants less ppm
 
O

old shol4evr

Well-Known Member
you no i'm not sure look it up,i grow in soil so it might be .just type in Hanna ppm chart for coco,it's been a while since i did it ,i just have it wrote down in my journal i keep with my grow ,i'm old so i have to write things down and dont worry it's coming to a store near you one day lol
 
roorsmoker

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
A lot of this depends on your humidity, also. An overall low humidity, especially 30% or less will feed less because of water evaporating from the coco at a quicker pace than it can be absorbed by the plant. I always flower in very low humidity, so I usually tend to feed around 800 ppm in coco. Depends on the strain too.

Still a little new to coco myself, but have loved the results I've gotten so far!!
 
GOLDBERG71

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
roorsmoker said:
pH- 5.8, sounds great!

Your old meter's electrode is bad. Depending on the make/brand of your unit, you may be able to replace it and have two working meters. However, I would recommend a Blue Labs or Hanna non-pen-type unit if you plan on making this a big hobby :). That pen should be fine if you're just doing your own head stash grow. Just make sure to store it with storing solution.

But in my experience:The pen's are always finicky, and the electrode's usually cost half or more what the whole unit does. I used a pen for my first pH meter. Never getting one again. But it did last me a few years with calibration/storing it right. It's worth the extra money in the long run to get the portable, but non-pen pH units (for me).

I'm still trying to figure out which is better: Blue Labs or Hanna. The fact that Blue Labs made in USA is kind of a nice thing, but they are a bit pricey. But that's a different subject lol.
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Blue lab combo meter. Does it all with a 5 year warranty I believe. I've heard bad things about Hanna meters. The guy at my local shop won't carry them anymore. To many complaints and returns.
 
Newmmc

Newmmc

Well-Known Member
Week six Sooo my mills feeding chart tells me to stop the c4 ( which is the bud promoter) and to start the pk ( which is the bud ripener) it shows to do this at week 6,7 and 8 then flush 9. So the chart only goes to week 9 and my sour finishes at week 10-11 so i figure I'll continue the c4 for another week or so before I start the pk the last pic is bubba og
 

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roorsmoker

roorsmoker

Well-Known Member
Newmmc said:
Week six Sooo my mills feeding chart tells me to stop the c4 ( which is the bud promoter) and to start the pk ( which is the bud ripener) it shows to do this at week 6,7 and 8 then flush 9. So the chart only goes to week 9 and my sour finishes at week 10-11 so i figure I'll continue the c4 for another week or so before I start the pk the last pic is bubba og
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If you have ran the strain before and know how long to run it, just pro-rate the corresponding grow week with the back of the bottle. Just do a simple proportion like x days actual / recommended. So in your case: 11 weeks / 9 weeks = 1.22. Multiply this number by whatever week you are feeding. For example, Week six of box nutrients would be 6 X 1.22 = 7.32 Weeks. So you start the ripener at 7 weeks and 2-3 days or so when running the Sour.

I'm sure you came to the same conclusion, but I figured I'd show you how I do it the nerdy, but simple way lol.
 
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