stangerpower
Active Member
ill be happy with a oz to medicate with that should last me few weeks
pakistan ryder she on day 49 an just a little girl lst/topped/supercropped by accident lol
- Thread starter stangerpower
- Start date
stangerpower
Active Member
She is only 7 inches tall though lol damn
SirGreenThumb
Well-Known Member
You keep going the way you are going and you are going to get a lock out.
You notice the yellow tips that is the first sign of over fert. Cut back, feed them ph'd water only and let them recover before you give them anything else.
You notice the yellow tips that is the first sign of over fert. Cut back, feed them ph'd water only and let them recover before you give them anything else.
SirGreenThumb
Well-Known Member
Here is a pretty good table to check out.
NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
ruby fruit
Well-Known Member
I guess the world of seeds AKR prob wouldn't do as well outdoors?PPM is like speaking chinese to me
i run half str nutes in coco
and the " days " really dont matter its been stunted / delayed a bit
most people that have been growing a while go by what the bud looks like
but the count starts from sprout but its had a rough life so to speak so it probably doesnt matter the age its had to recover a few times but will still run its course
ive pulled 3/4oz mains from world of seeds afghan kush ryder and the same plant passed a joint around like 5 heads and by the time we were putting it out they all wanted to go in on a QP asking if id call my connect
you may not pull alot from them but 3 oz's roughly from a 3 gal from my experience anyway in 75 days give or take isnt that bad at all
tekdc911
Well-Known Member
they do ok i get better results indoors but that is pretty much the same for all the auto's ive grown
the AKR's i have now are 8 weeks and just showing flower ( real flower )
so they have plenty of time to grow
just from what ive experienced they are short and compact outside
the AKR's i have now are 8 weeks and just showing flower ( real flower )
so they have plenty of time to grow
just from what ive experienced they are short and compact outside
stangerpower
Active Member
Well kolas are thickening up nice I chopped off 2 small buds growing at the bottom to test it out .. Just brown bagged it with fan blowing up dryer em up n rolled one up lol wasent bad kinda fruity citrus aroma body high so I'm a let her go another few weeks swelling up n chops her down n cure it right won't get much but should be high quality
stangerpower
Active Member
Well I ended up chopping her down just didn't see any purpose of wasting that space for maybe a few more grams of medicine flushed her 3 times for bout a week an chopped her total weight off the little girl wet was 61.3 grams of medicine bout 5 nice kolas an some smaller stuff I figure I'll get at least 10 good grams of dryer an cured buds .. She has a fruity citrus smell to her nice crystals I'll post a pic of the mugs once they have cured up a bit ..... All in all it was definitely a lesson learned and if I ever due a auto again I will take a hole diff approach knowing its a auto vs being surprised itbisnone ... I can see doing about 20 of these to make it worth while but idk took a small snip of some trash at the bottom a few days ago an did the brown bag quick dry wit a fan to test a little great body high although it wasn't fully ready to smoke but I assume once cured its gonna have a nice kick to it ....
Pass it Around
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I really appreciate that chart! much more comprehensive than my books I got.