Organic soil ph issues

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
OK! I was confused thinking about it a few days ago and now I'm just as confused. Still going to see if making the change improves thing or not. Wish it did not take so long to find out the results from my next grow lol.
Your problems are elsewhere not the chlorine in tap water.

I understand your confusion and its hard to take anyones word on it but i have provided many examples of how tap water does notjing to soil organisms.

If your handy with a nutrient agar petri dish you can take a soil sample and culture whats in it and pour some water over the result to see if tap water burns bacteria and fungi. Obviously it dosent and is safe for soil and plants.
 

toomp

Well-Known Member
Yes but not for what you're talking about. Bottles are great for the company bottling them and making excess cash. No one else.
Bottled salts cost just like amendments cost.
Bag of castings cost same if not more than a bottle of foliage pro that would go a entire cycle.
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Bottled salts cost just like amendments cost.
Bag of castings cost same if not more than a bottle of foliage pro that would go a entire cycle.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055F3XJA/ref=asc_df_B0055F3XJA5304278/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0055F3XJA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060922766&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12297645272246720987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011798&hvtargid=pla-365629593339

https://heavygardens.com/down-to-earth-bio-live-50-lb.html?fee=6&fep=3281&utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=shopping feed&utm_campaign=GSFeed-LIVEGROW&gclid=CjwKCAiApdPRBRAdEiwA84bo31Nv69oylnVgs0PY6m3Iv5rDxNb-Pzvgj4jvgl70a8iSloFxH6iBbRoCjHcQAvD_BwE

Note the price of a 50 pound bag (a 5000 watt grow will use about 5 pounds per grow depending on pot size and if it is fresh soil or recycled soil) of an all purpose amendment that will carry you from start to finish with no need for additional amendments vs the price of the one gallon of a bottled fertilizer that will last for one 5000 watt grow (if you use it conservatively and with an expensive premade soil), and then remember that you're gonna use more than just one kind of bottled fertilizer. Now if you want to talk about buying powders and then making your own salt ferts, than you're on a better path.

I get paid to make grows cheaper. But please, do go on friend.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055F3XJA/ref=asc_df_B0055F3XJA5304278/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0055F3XJA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060922766&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12297645272246720987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011798&hvtargid=pla-365629593339

https://heavygardens.com/down-to-earth-bio-live-50-lb.html?fee=6&fep=3281&utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=shopping feed&utm_campaign=GSFeed-LIVEGROW&gclid=CjwKCAiApdPRBRAdEiwA84bo31Nv69oylnVgs0PY6m3Iv5rDxNb-Pzvgj4jvgl70a8iSloFxH6iBbRoCjHcQAvD_BwE

Note the price of a 50 pound bag (a 5000 watt grow will use about 5 pounds per grow depending on pot size and if it is fresh soil or recycled soil) of an all purpose amendment that will carry you from start to finish with no need for additional amendments vs the price of the one gallon of a bottled fertilizer that will last for one 5000 watt grow (if you use it conservatively and with an expensive premade soil), and then remember that you're gonna use more than just one kind of bottled fertilizer. Now if you want to talk about buying powders and then making your own salt ferts, than you're on a better path.

I get paid to make grows cheaper. But please, do go on friend.
If you take the profit and loss from growing weed it is waaaay profitable no matter what you use.
 

toomp

Well-Known Member
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055F3XJA/ref=asc_df_B0055F3XJA5304278/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0055F3XJA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060922766&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12297645272246720987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011798&hvtargid=pla-365629593339

https://heavygardens.com/down-to-earth-bio-live-50-lb.html?fee=6&fep=3281&utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=shopping feed&utm_campaign=GSFeed-LIVEGROW&gclid=CjwKCAiApdPRBRAdEiwA84bo31Nv69oylnVgs0PY6m3Iv5rDxNb-Pzvgj4jvgl70a8iSloFxH6iBbRoCjHcQAvD_BwE

Note the price of a 50 pound bag (a 5000 watt grow will use about 5 pounds per grow depending on pot size and if it is fresh soil or recycled soil) of an all purpose amendment that will carry you from start to finish with no need for additional amendments vs the price of the one gallon of a bottled fertilizer that will last for one 5000 watt grow (if you use it conservatively and with an expensive premade soil), and then remember that you're gonna use more than just one kind of bottled fertilizer. Now if you want to talk about buying powders and then making your own salt ferts, than you're on a better path.

I get paid to make grows cheaper. But please, do go on friend.
So you use only 5 pounds of 1 single dry amendment for one whole entire grow start to finish for a 5000 watts. Pure organic water only? What size pots are these lively activated bacteria thriving in that only requires 5 pounds of this amendment?
5k watt a gallon of dynagro last a year with some to spare on a continuous grow. Too many different nutrients for you to have made your conclusion
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
So you use only 5 pounds of 1 single dry amendment for one whole entire grow start to finish for a 5000 watts. Pure organic water only? What size pots are these lively activated bacteria thriving in that only requires 5 pounds of this amendment?
5k watt a gallon of dynagro last a year with some to spare on a continuous grow. Too many different nutrients for you to have made your conclusion
I wasn't talking about myself I was just using the data from the grows I consult to give you some info friend!

My personal grow is just a few thousand watts since its just for my wife and I's personal medication. I don't need to use amendments anymore in my personal grow. I have worm bins and I run a compost company. I collect lots of local waste so my final product has all the nutrients I need. Every few weeks I harvest about two gallons of castings and spread em out by the handful.

But back to the 5000 watt grow info. That's not a single dry amendment friend that is a blend you can purchase. It contains all the organic amendments you need, and it is a premium mix made up of ocean amendments and mined minerals, no cheap gross stuff like blood meal. I personally would recommend spending more cash up front and getting all the amendments individually because you'll save more cash that way in the long run. But that is a big burden for some, so the blend is a great way to save yourself on the upfront costs, because it is like you're just paying for a single amendment.

For pot size use at least ten gallon pots or 15 gallon pots, but you could also do 20 gallon or 30 gallon tubs. Really whatever you want as long as its not a smaller pot. You just want at least 60 gallons of soil spread out under a 1000 watt light. Your soil could be a bale of promix or for better value get a bale of peat moss, and some aeration and do a 60/40 mix. Make your base even better by contacting a local compost supplier like myself, depending on your area you can get a yard of compost for 35 bucks or less.Do your mix even parts peat moss, aeration, compost.

Let your tap water sit for 24 hours before use.
 

toomp

Well-Known Member
I wasn't talking about myself I was just using the data from the grows I consult to give you some info friend!

My personal grow is just a few thousand watts since its just for my wife and I's personal medication. I don't need to use amendments anymore in my personal grow. I have worm bins and I run a compost company. I collect lots of local waste so my final product has all the nutrients I need. Every few weeks I harvest about two gallons of castings and spread em out by the handful.

But back to the 5000 watt grow info. That's not a single dry amendment friend that is a blend you can purchase. It contains all the organic amendments you need, and it is a premium mix made up of ocean amendments and mined minerals, no cheap gross stuff like blood meal. I personally would recommend spending more cash up front and getting all the amendments individually because you'll save more cash that way in the long run. But that is a big burden for some, so the blend is a great way to save yourself on the upfront costs, because it is like you're just paying for a single amendment.

For pot size use at least ten gallon pots or 15 gallon pots, but you could also do 20 gallon or 30 gallon tubs. Really whatever you want as long as its not a smaller pot. You just want at least 60 gallons of soil spread out under a 1000 watt light. Your soil could be a bale of promix or for better value get a bale of peat moss, and some aeration and do a 60/40 mix. Make your base even better by contacting a local compost supplier like myself, depending on your area you can get a yard of compost for 35 bucks or less.Do your mix even parts peat moss, aeration, compost.

Let your tap water sit for 24 hours before use.
You see why the bottles out perform?
10-15 gallons pots.
You lose a cycle minimum annually.
But it looks great for outdoors. I will be trying this next spring in my green house.
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
This is my first organic grow and the soil I went with is coast of maine pro mix. From what I read, with organic soils there is no need for nutes or adjust ph. I'm also using ro water which as we all know, strips calcium and magnesium from the water. I have two girls, one pineapple express and one blue dream about 5 wks old. They were doing great up until about a wk ago or so. Now they seems to be having some ph problems as well as what I think calmag would resolve. So I'm thinking maybe I should go ahead and adjust my ph from now on and add some calmag. But would I go ahead and adjust to 6.5 or since I'm using organic soil should I offset it a little? Same with calmag. Should I use less? Why am I having these issues? With water only organic soil, I don't feel I should have to add anything but water. I'm really trying to steer clear of chemicals because I want a totally organic harvest. Is there any organic ways around adjusting ph and adding calcium and magnesium? Should I just use tap water? I'm lost here
I’m running coast of Maine’s mix right now and discovering the ph of the soil is to alkaline to absorb magnesium in sufficient amounts.
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
I have been having calcium deficiencies lately too and I thought it was because my well water had gone down in mineral content from .3 to .2 with the dry summer we had.

Turns out it was an old bag of ocean forest that I mixed too much perlite into. Maybe more than 25% large perlite.

I added 1/4 cup lime to it to try to fix the problem and it helped green up the next plants but the deficiency came back anyway.

After 3 months the organic nutrients in soil mix can be eaten by the bacteria and be out of balance.

Fox farm recommends 6 months old at most. Pro mix 1 year from bag date. The chemical salt nute charge, lime and wetting agent will deteriorate.

I over compensated with cal mag too. Got nitrogen tox on top of cal problems.

New bag and the problems went away.

When I test a new bag or an overbites pot I get the acidic reading you show.

If I test in a week or a healthy plant I get the color on the right. About 6.5.

When plants eat the ph rises. When lime is activated by water the ph rises. Most nutes bring it down. It should all balance out.
I’m sure this thread is old were you able to draw any concrete conclusions how are your plants what was yiur last run off check
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
If it is actually a true organic soil you don't need to ph your water at all the bacteria in the soil does all the work however they need food just like a normal potting mix does. Most organics guys give the soils "teas" to give them a boost and keep the bacteria happy and healthy. Look them up they might help you out. The only time you will have ph problems with organic soil is if you killed the bacteria/microbes in the soil by using ferts on them instead of organic stuff like the guy above me suggested which is apparently a big no no.
Yes n no
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
This is my first organic grow and the soil I went with is coast of maine pro mix. From what I read, with organic soils there is no need for nutes or adjust ph. I'm also using ro water which as we all know, strips calcium and magnesium from the water. I have two girls, one pineapple express and one blue dream about 5 wks old. They were doing great up until about a wk ago or so. Now they seems to be having some ph problems as well as what I think calmag would resolve. So I'm thinking maybe I should go ahead and adjust my ph from now on and add some calmag. But would I go ahead and adjust to 6.5 or since I'm using organic soil should I offset it a little? Same with calmag. Should I use less? Why am I having these issues? With water only organic soil, I don't feel I should have to add anything but water. I'm really trying to steer clear of chemicals because I want a totally organic harvest. Is there any organic ways around adjusting ph and adding calcium and magnesium? Should I just use tap water? I'm lost here
Bro I am having the same devastating problems with coast of Maine growers mix right now.

there soil is dense and easy to over water I meant to put another 20 percent perlite in and am laying the price now.

there is 20 % coco which depending on the quality could easily cause ca and mag problems using ro.

whixh isone of the mistakes I made.

the growers mix I got is also extremely alkaline.

evem aftermy plants been in a 5 gal for 3 weekswith ph in at 6.3-6.7 I got my first run off check at 7.4I dropped my waterton5.9 k over the next few watering to 5.9 still to get run off ph above 7.
Im convinced this started locking out ca and mag and is now
Locking out moreZ
I’ll attach a slurry test I just did of roots organic fresh orginal soil compared to a soil slurry test from my 3 week going containers of coast of Maine.
water for slurry test 6.4
Growers mix 7.2-7.3 roots 6.6-6.7

i called
Coast of Maine initially to find out how much coir was in the mix when I started seeing my mag issues and while on the phone asked if they limed there soil. The rep said they used to but recently stopped because of high ph.

thanks coast lf

I’ll never buy coast of Maine mix again.
now When I would normally be flipping for a quarter pound I’m hoping things green up to clone and hit the restart button with more suitable soil or possibly just go straight to coco and have more control.

really dishearteningZ
 

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Username13

New Member
I was trying to figure out what to use to adjust my water and I remembered reading something about bokashi or maybe EM-1 lowering pH so I tried it with Terrakashi which has EM-1 and it lowered the crap out of my pH. Like a tablespoon maybe lowered a half gallon of water by a full point (around 7 to 6). I plan to just start using this bokashi from now on and monitor how it changes the soil pH over time but seems like a legitimate organic solution for my amateur ass lol. Edit: it also has molasses which is for sure acidic and most likely the source of the pH drop
 
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Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
I was trying to figure out what to use to adjust my water and I remembered reading something about bokashi or maybe EM-1 lowering pH so I tried it with Terrakashi which has EM-1 and it lowered the crap out of my pH. Like a tablespoon maybe lowered a half gallon of water by a full point (around 7 to 6). I plan to just start using this bokashi from now on and monitor how it changes the soil pH over time but seems like a legitimate organic solution for my amateur ass lol. Edit: it also has molasses which is for sure acidic and most likely the source of the pH drop
I'm not sure how that will effect your soil over time...if you want to lower your pH organically there are much cheaper options. Apple cider vinegar and lemon juice chief among them.
 

Username13

New Member
Did some reading on lemon juice and that actually wouldnt work for me because of its anti- microbial properties. I plan to just get some pH down I think but the plants definitely reacted to the bokashi. I think the microbes acidify the soil too but I haven't re-watered and tested again to know for sure.
 
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