ok ok ok, I has a Seedling!!!!!

green_machine_two9er

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Blue_Focus said:
Why, That's what I use too. I found the info here.

phscales.com

How to Lower pH in Water for Plants: A Comprehensive Guide for Gardeners - phscales.com

Maintaining the right pH level in water is crucial for the health and growth of plants. pH, which stands for "potential of hydrogen," is a measure of the
phscales.com phscales.com
Click to expand...
Just a Quick Look through that site and it’s obviously seo clickbate bs. There’s really nothing there if any value whatsoever. You want real information regarding plant science look at .edu or agriculture extension type papers and articles.
 
Blue_Focus

Blue_Focus

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
Just a Quick Look through that site and it’s obviously seo clickbate bs. There’s really nothing there if any value whatsoever. You want real information regarding plant science look at .edu or agriculture extension type papers and articles.
Click to expand...
www.420magazine.com

Using Vinegar For Lowering pH

Has anyone ever tried using Vinegar to lower Ph levels in a hydro grow? Can it hurt the plants? What about using Baking Soda to raise Ph?
www.420magazine.com www.420magazine.com
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
Don’t use vinegar,
Click to expand...
Since your pH is alkaline, you will need to acidify the solution. For adjusting a few gallons of solution, two regular aspirin per gallon of water will lower a pH of 8.0 to near 6.0. You can use a teaspoon of white vinegar per gallon as an alternative method.

depts.washington.edu

adjusting pH in hydroponic systems

What are the disadvantages of using white vinegar to lower the pH in my hydroponic system?
depts.washington.edu depts.washington.edu
.




What can I use to adjust the pH in hydroponics?


If the pH reading is high, add phosphoric acid, citric acid, vinegar or pH down products slowly. Wait several minutes before adding more. Repeat until the pH reaches the optimum range. If the pH is low, add potassium hydroxide, potassium carbonate or a pH up product slowly.

extension.okstate.edu

Electrical Conductivity and pH Guide for Hydroponics - Oklahoma State University

A guide to optimal water alkalinity, pH levels for certain plants in hydroponics and the difference between soil and soilless culture.
extension.okstate.edu extension.okstate.edu
.
 
Last edited:
Fangthane

Fangthane

Well-Known Member
I use distilled white vinegar or lemon juice for pH lowering. Some people seem to hate the very idea of it, but it seems to work out fine for my needs. One of the main arguments against vinegar seems to be that it breaks down too quickly, making it less than idea for hydro reservoirs. I haven't seen any issue with just using it for gallon jugs of solution that I'm going to use right away.
 
green_machine_two9er

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
IndooorGardnerOhio said:
Since your pH is alkaline, you will need to acidify the solution. For adjusting a few gallons of solution, two regular aspirin per gallon of water will lower a pH of 8.0 to near 6.0. You can use a teaspoon of white vinegar per gallon as an alternative method.

depts.washington.edu

adjusting pH in hydroponic systems

What are the disadvantages of using white vinegar to lower the pH in my hydroponic system?
depts.washington.edu depts.washington.edu
.
Click to expand...
I don’t get it honestly
When ph adjustment is so simple and cheap why anyone would ever recommend sodium bicarbonate to give to plants is beyond me. Sodium : hello salt! Plants don’t seem to like sodium. It seems like sites just copy and oaste the same bs all over the web… and the link you listed has a sub link to another edu where is doesn’t say anything at all about vinegar or baking soda. So I’m scratching my head here.
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
Fangthane said:
I use distilled white vinegar or lemon juice for pH lowering. Some people seem to hate the very idea of it, but it seems to work out fine for my needs. One of the main arguments against vinegar seems to be that it breaks down too quickly, making it less than idea for hydro reservoirs. I haven't seen any issue with just using it for gallon jugs of solution that I'm going to use right away.
Click to expand...
It can also grow a mother in reservoir systems, but I am not using a reservoir im in coco/peat/vermuclite so its not a concern lol.
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
I don’t get it honestly
When ph adjustment is so simple and cheap why anyone would ever recommend sodium bicarbonate to give to plants is beyond me. Sodium : hello salt! Plants don’t seem to like sodium. It seems like sites just copy and oaste the same bs all over the web… and the link you listed has a sub link to another edu where is doesn’t say anything at all about vinegar or baking soda. So I’m scratching my head here.
Click to expand...
If you scroll down to the pH managment section it does. I do agree on baking soda, and If I need to raise pH I use Potassium Carbonate or potassium bicarbonate cause I have it on hand for brewing beer and wine making.

Vinegar is fine in systems like mine using coco/peat/vermuclite, its only really an issue in reservoir systems or DWC systems where it can grow a mother and slime out everything.

As far as pH adjustment being cheap,maybe for you but distilled white vinegar is far cheaper.



VS


AND



is still cheaper than Ph up and down.
 
Last edited:
E

ec121

Well-Known Member
green_machine_two9er said:
I don’t get it honestly
When ph adjustment is so simple and cheap why anyone would ever recommend sodium bicarbonate to give to plants is beyond me. Sodium : hello salt! Plants don’t seem to like sodium. It seems like sites just copy and oaste the same bs all over the web… and the link you listed has a sub link to another edu where is doesn’t say anything at all about vinegar or baking soda. So I’m scratching my head here.
Click to expand...
What do you use? The most common thing people use is phosphoric acid (General Hydroponics, Advanced Nutrients, Humboldt's) for pH down, which contains three salts.
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
ec121 said:
What do you use? The most common thing people use is phosphoric acid (General Hydroponics, Advanced Nutrients, Humboldt's) for pH down, which contains three salts.
Click to expand...
I think he meant more actual Sodium, not chemical salts. Seems a lot of people automatically think "table Salt" when you say a fert is a salt and dont understand that most ferts are a chemical Salt that is nothing like table salt.
 
E

ec121

Well-Known Member
IndooorGardnerOhio said:
I think he meant more actual Sodium, not chemical salts. Seems a lot of people automatically think "table Salt" when you say a fert is a salt and dont understand that most ferts are a chemical Salt that is nothing like table salt.
Click to expand...
Maybe so, but sodium chloride and sodium phosphate in excess are harmful to plants due to its sodium content, which is why we measure the EC of salt-based nutrients.
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
ec121 said:
The three salts in phosphoric acid each contain sodium, so I'm not sure where you're going with this.
Click to expand...
Really, didnt know that one, Guess i need to brush up on my chemistry. I was however refering more to the other salts used for fertlizer, or more the difference between what the term "salt" means in Chemisty VS what the term salt means to the average layman.
 
Tolerance Break

Tolerance Break

Well-Known Member
On the topic of autos earlier... from a breeding perspective, the nature of autos removes most of the valuable breeding tools.

In photo breeding you have multiple ways to preserve both parents while producing seed and flower. It gives the ability to test the end product, and steer breeding based on the progeny. It also allows one to back cross to reintroduce traits if all the genetics are preserved. This allows lines to be worked, perfected, reworked, and preserved. All of that pays off. Autos can be bred with pedigree, but very, very few people are taking the steps to do it right.

I understand why most people don't care about any of that, but its the main reason I stay away from autos.

As for using light poisoning to make seed, I would advise against it. You can take a clone, use colloidal silver on it to produce female pollen, let it pollinate the other ladies, and you're good to smoke them and collect seed. Just my opinion. I'm all for experimentation, so if you do try the light method, please share the results!
 
Tolerance Break

Tolerance Break

Well-Known Member
IndooorGardnerOhio said:
Really, didnt know that one, Guess i need to brush up on my chemistry. I was however refering more to the other salts used for fertlizer, or more the difference between what the term "salt" means in Chemisty VS what the term salt means to the average layman.
Click to expand...
Salt is a collection of ions, which is what plants eat. Idk if I'm a layman, but thats all I know about salt.
 
MtRainDog

MtRainDog

Well-Known Member
You can back-cross in auto breeding. You could start with a famous clone-only photo-female and an auto-male, and back cross subsequent generations to the same mom with auto males from the progeny. From this point, you could begin making f2, f3, etc generations. You would select for the desirable mom traits in the back crosses, then lock in the auto trait in the f2 and up generations.
 
MtRainDog

MtRainDog

Well-Known Member
I'm sure one of the genetics experts could weigh-in, but you might lose the auto trait in multiple back crosses? I'm not really sure. You probably couldn't go past bx1 or bx2 to make f2's from.
 
I

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
Tolerance Break said:
On the topic of autos earlier... from a breeding perspective, the nature of autos removes most of the valuable breeding tools.

In photo breeding you have multiple ways to preserve both parents while producing seed and flower. It gives the ability to test the end product, and steer breeding based on the progeny. It also allows one to back cross to reintroduce traits if all the genetics are preserved. This allows lines to be worked, perfected, reworked, and preserved. All of that pays off. Autos can be bred with pedigree, but very, very few people are taking the steps to do it right.

I understand why most people don't care about any of that, but its the main reason I stay away from autos.

As for using light poisoning to make seed, I would advise against it. You can take a clone, use colloidal silver on it to produce female pollen, let it pollinate the other ladies, and you're good to smoke them and collect seed. Just my opinion. I'm all for experimentation, so if you do try the light method, please share the results!
Click to expand...
Oh no i was not trying to make seed at all. I was more curious of my seemingly slow growth could be due to to much light. 14 day old plant and the light at the top of the plant was 770 PPFD. I do plan to do Silver and self for seed later on autos, Maybe even cross a couple different autos. but that is not the goal right now, I just want this plant to make it to harvest at this point.
 
MtRainDog

MtRainDog

Well-Known Member
In the bulk auto fem business, I'm pretty sure most of them have one or two auto studs they pimp out to who knows what. I've heard shit that would really disappoint anyone growing autos. When you think you're growing auto "cookies", "gorilla glue", etc the actual genetics you're growing are often far from it. Seriously, they will have a blue/purple group of plants that they can put together and call it anything. Auto "blueberry", auto "purple punch"...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top