Nutes for Newbs?

Hello guys, I was just wondering what nutrients you guys are using?

I've used most of them myself. When I first started my biggest problem was not using a pH and ppm meter, then when I got meters I didn't store and calibrate them properly.

I've had good results from most of them, but some better than others.

For newbs I suggest GH's Maxibloom from start to finish. Hell I just started using the Lucas blend again just GH mirco and bloom at the same ratio start to finsh, and the plants are loving it.

But I also love and highly suggest organic gardening, I do believe organics taste better hands down.

But I've also had great results with Nectar for the gods, and botanicare.

My secret sauce is.
Sunshine advance#4 mix mixed equal parts with straight coco chunks (not pith) 50% of each. Then add some earthworm castings, dolimite lime and Plant success granular to the soil mix.

Then I feed with maxicrop liquid fish, seaweed kelp and a tiny but of calmag for veg. Then I switch to Botanicare Kind for flower, just the flower nutes and base for the first two to three weeks of flower. Then I cut out the base (4-0-0) and use Hydroplex 0-10-10 in conjuction with Botanicare Kind Bloom (0-6-6) so no nitrogen after week 3 of flower. I've had the best results with this recipe..

I shared mine, now share yours.

i'm a cheap n simple SOB. I use FoxFarm Grow big for hydro, FoxFarm Big Bloom and add some Humboldt Ginormous on the last 3 weeks of flower. I use the Grow Big (N) all the way through the grow, but progressively lighten it up after wk 4 of flower. A little added GH cal/mag on the 4 week res change and Im good. Cheap, easy and gets me great results.

HydroRed said:

i'm a cheap n simple SOB. I use FoxFarm Grow big for hydro, FoxFarm Big Bloom and add some Humboldt Ginormous on the last 3 weeks of flower. I use the Grow Big (N) all the way through the grow, but progressively lighten it up after wk 4 of flower. A little added GH cal/mag on the 4 week res change and Im good. Cheap, easy and gets me great results.

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My first run ever, I used T8 floros and fish emulsion start to finish with some crazy bloom booster like 0-50-30 and had awesome results. Then I went to a hydroshop that Texas kid owned, lol I bought a 600 digi and a bat wing reflector with 5 dwc buckets. I used only Foxfarm big bloom start to finish. Lol fuckers didn't tell me I needed the Grow Big and Tiger bloom. I fucked my grow up. I was grow some dope ass cut ECSD and cali mist two hard strains for newbs. I basically had root rot, but res temps were hot. After that experience I always considered FF as my least favorite only because of my experience. But I am sure they have great products..

Just my experience

Hey, i ended up buying biobizz nutes didnt really have any experience about them just asked the clerk for something to go with organic soil what do u think about biobizz? I didnt use them in veg phase, only in flower imo they like it but since its my first time cant really tell for sure havent had any deficiencys or problems except some yellowing & crisping in a few bottom fan leaves, looks dead, but this is only in 1 or 2 plant so dont know if its from the nutes.. i have bio bloom bio heaven and top max, right now been only using bio heaven & bloom thought about adding top max later, week 4 flower

whalebee said:

Hey, i ended up buying biobizz nutes didnt really have any experience about them just asked the clerk for something to go with organic soil what do u think about biobizz? I didnt use them in veg phase, only in flower imo they like it but since its my first time cant really tell for sure havent had any deficiencys or problems except some yellowing & crisping in a few bottom fan leaves, looks dead, but this is only in 1 or 2 plant so dont know if its from the nutes.. i have bio bloom bio heaven and top max, right now been only using bio heaven & bloom thought about adding top max later, week 4 flower

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From my knowledge biobizz is one of the only organic nutes that can be used in hydroponics. And it is one of the few nutes I haven't used. Are the plants that yellowing the same strain?

Indica domn plants can be fed a lot more then some finicky sativas. And some times roots grow faster on some plants faster than others. And plants being root bound will show the same symptoms that you're describing.

I try to make sure I have way too many plants in veg. So if I have problems with a couple I can just kill them off and replace them with healthy plants.

My first question is what method of growing are you using? Soil, hydro or soilless?

In soil/soilless not all plants drink the same amount. So you should lift them to see where they are at.

Also test the run off.. If I had a guess I'd say nitrogen deficiency, low RH and high heat is your problem. All go hand in hand with each other..

Also if Biobizz is organic and you are in soil, and you are in week 4 of flower you should have your pH around 6.8


Pics always help too

.ODanksta. said:

From my knowledge biobizz is one of the only organic nutes that can be used in hydroponics. And it is one of the few nutes I haven't used. Are the plants that yellowing the same strain?

Indica domn plants can be fed a lot more then some finicky sativas. And some times roots grow faster on some plants faster than others. And plants being root bound will show the same symptoms that you're describing.

I try to make sure I have way too many plants in veg. So if I have problems with a couple I can just kill them off and replace them with healthy plants.

My first question is what method of growing are you using? Soil, hydro or soilless?

In soil/soilless not all plants drink the same amount. So you should lift them to see where they are at.

Also test the run off.. If I had a guess I'd say nitrogen deficiency, low RH and high heat is your problem. All go hand in hand with each other..

Also if Biobizz is organic and you are in soil, and you are in week 4 of flower you should have your pH around 6.8


Pics always help too

Click to expand...

Yeah, and the other ones that are same strain are fine so i think it might be what u said ive been giving them all more or less the same amount water/nutes, will look into that. I grow in basic organic soil, cheapest one i could find from the local supermarket lol, but it had def some nutes in it i didnt have deficiencys and vegged without nutes, im not at home right now but i have pictures of them in this thread https://www.rollitup.org/t/critical-kush-barneys-farm.632496/page-48 yeah btw im in week 4 now, i havent really used any ph stuff yet i was under the impression the soil corrects the ph itself or something like that. Think i should get the test kit? Also the lifting i read about, but i couldnt notice the differences this way so i put my fingers 7.5cm deep and feel with fingers is it moist, my pots are pretty big the smallest is 35 liter and biggest 50 liter, but rest are 40 l.. is this try with finger technique efficient or what u think?

I'm partial to Promix Ultimate Organic soil with 20% chunky perlite added. I feed with General Organics full line, with Botanicare Silica Blast, and Mollases in late flower.

.ODanksta. said:

My first run ever, I used T8 floros and fish emulsion start to finish with some crazy bloom booster like 0-50-30 and had awesome results. Then I went to a hydroshop that Texas kid owned, lol I bought a 600 digi and a bat wing reflector with 5 dwc buckets. I used only Foxfarm big bloom start to finish. Lol fuckers didn't tell me I needed the Grow Big and Tiger bloom. I fucked my grow up. I was grow some dope ass cut ECSD and cali mist two hard strains for newbs. I basically had root rot, but res temps were hot. After that experience I always considered FF as my least favorite only because of my experience. But I am sure they have great products..

Just my experience

Click to expand...

FF seems to be the love it or hate it kinda nute haha. I feed pretty low ppm rarely ever exceeding 500 ppm with everything mixed so I'm definitely on the "less is more" team. The FF is an organic for the bloom so res temps and antibacterials/beneficials are crucial. Though I dont run beneficials, my res temps are cool so I manage to dodge issues with slime/root rot etc...(knock on wood). I've never run the Tiger Bloom but use the Humboldt Ginormous for my late flower P & K boost that seems to promote more trichomes in just about any strain I run.

whalebee said:

Yeah, and the other ones that are same strain are fine so i think it might be what u said ive been giving them all more or less the same amount water/nutes, will look into that. I grow in basic organic soil, cheapest one i could find from the local supermarket lol, but it had def some nutes in it i didnt have deficiencys and vegged without nutes, im not at home right now but i have pictures of them in this thread https://www.rollitup.org/t/critical-kush-barneys-farm.632496/page-48 yeah btw im in week 4 now, i havent really used any ph stuff yet i was under the impression the soil corrects the ph itself or something like that. Think i should get the test kit? Also the lifting i read about, but i couldnt notice the differences this way so i put my fingers 7.5cm deep and feel with fingers is it moist, my pots are pretty big the smallest is 35 liter and biggest 50 liter, but rest are 40 l.. is this try with finger technique efficient or what u think?

Click to expand...

If you use dolomite your soil should adjust it's pH. But cheaper soils probably don't have it or not very much. Peat moss actually turns pretty acidic so I highly suggest adding it. But it takes about a month to break down. So it's best to prep (cook) your soil ahead of time. I always joke around and say dolomite lime made me a professional grower overnight.

But yes a pH meter is extremely important. You want to test the water going in and out. You'll get a feel for it after a couple months and you won't need to use it that often, you'll basically get the hang of it..

Also stick your fingers in the bottom holes too. With large plants the top may seem moist but the bottom will be dry.

HydroRed said:

FF seems to be the love it or hate it kinda nute haha. I feed pretty low ppm rarely ever exceeding 500 ppm with everything mixed so I'm definitely on the "less is more" team. The FF is an organic for the bloom so res temps and antibacterials/beneficials are crucial. Though I dont run beneficials, my res temps are cool so I manage to dodge issues with slime/root rot etc...(knock on wood). I've never run the Tiger Bloom but use the Humboldt Ginormous for my late flower P & K boost that seems to promote more trichomes in just about any strain I run.

Click to expand...

So you only use big bloom and ginormous for flower? Cause big bloom is just the micros. Tiger bloom is the actual flower nutes.

But I guess using a booster is fine. I've done maxibloom start to finish with killer results, and it's just a mild booster..

You should try Tiger bloom, but it's strong stuff so be careful and it's very acidic.

Maybe I should give the Tiger Bloom a shot.

.ODanksta. said:

If you use dolomite your soil should adjust it's pH. But cheaper soils probably don't have it or not very much. Peat moss actually turns pretty acidic so I highly suggest adding it. But it takes about a month to break down. So it's best to prep (cook) your soil ahead of time. I always joke around and say dolomite lime made me a professional grower overnight.

But yes a pH meter is extremely important. You want to test the water going in and out. You'll get a feel for it after a couple months and you won't need to use it that often, you'll basically get the hang of it..

Also stick your fingers in the bottom holes too. With large plants the top may seem moist but the bottom will be dry.

Click to expand...

Cool thanks for the advice man ^^ yeah ill get one of those ph meter test things, i think when i increase the nutes the ph will definetly change to some direction